Olsen 595 - Revision history

Ravinglunatic: /* Step 5 : The input connector.... */

2011-01-29T04:41:10Z

Step 5 : The input connector....

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:41, 29 January 2011
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	Hopefully this How To answers more questions than it creates. If you see anything wrong with it, let me know. Good luck!!		Hopefully this How To answers more questions than it creates. If you see anything wrong with it, let me know. Good luck!!


			[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]
			[[Category:Olsen 595]]
			[[Category:DIYC Index]]

G2ktcf: /* Olsen595 Hardware */

2009-06-15T07:58:05Z

Olsen595 Hardware

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:58, 15 June 2009
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	=Olsen595 Hardware=		=Olsen595 Hardware=
	~~'''''NOTICE: It seems that Sean's original file hosting is no longer available. This will be corrected soon with either new links or links to new files.'''''~~
	==Step 1: The PCB==		==Step 1: The PCB==

G2ktcf: /* Step 4 : Installing the components */

2009-06-15T07:57:29Z

Step 4 : Installing the components

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:57, 15 June 2009
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	==Step 4 : Installing the components==		==Step 4 : Installing the components==

	I created a parts list in excel with links to mouser for my PCB. The costs were accurate as of 23 January 2006. To see the parts list, [http://~~home~~.~~sw.rr~~.com/~~bowf~~/~~595howto~~/~~595howtopartslist~~.~~xls~~ click here]. They were out of the LEDs on the list when I ordered, so I ordered a different one with the same specs (2 volt, 10mA, T1).		I created a parts list in excel with links to mouser for my PCB. The costs were accurate as of 23 January 2006. To see the parts list, [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=41&d=1245052392 click here]. They were out of the LEDs on the list when I ordered, so I ordered a different one with the same specs (2 volt, 10mA, T1).

	A little note about LEDs. The T1 LED component in expressPCB software is actually larger than a T1. It is about the size of a T1.75 LED. I have made a PCB with this layout using T1.75 LEDs and they fit. As to the part numbers for LEDs. I have tried about three different part numbers with resistors as high as 750 ohms with decent results. Here are the mouser part numbers for the LEDs I have tried:		A little note about LEDs. The T1 LED component in expressPCB software is actually larger than a T1. It is about the size of a T1.75 LED. I have made a PCB with this layout using T1.75 LEDs and they fit. As to the part numbers for LEDs. I have tried about three different part numbers with resistors as high as 750 ohms with decent results. Here are the mouser part numbers for the LEDs I have tried:
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	The SIP has a dot on it near pin 1. Pin 1 has a square around it in the layout in part 2 of this How To. Pin 1 is a common bus and needs to be installed in the ground trace coming from the trace that runs under the ULN2803s.		The SIP has a dot on it near pin 1. Pin 1 has a square around it in the layout in part 2 of this How To. Pin 1 is a common bus and needs to be installed in the ground trace coming from the trace that runs under the ULN2803s.


	==Step 5 : The input connector....==		==Step 5 : The input connector....==

G2ktcf: /* Step 1: The PCB */

2009-06-15T07:56:04Z

Step 1: The PCB

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:56, 15 June 2009
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	After I made my PCB layout, I downloaded some software called primoPDF. This software installs a fake printer on the computer. When you print the PCB traces from expressPCB to the fake printer, it creates a PDF file.		After I made my PCB layout, I downloaded some software called primoPDF. This software installs a fake printer on the computer. When you print the PCB traces from expressPCB to the fake printer, it creates a PDF file.

	To view/download my PCB trace file, [http://~~home~~.~~sw.rr~~.com/~~bowf~~/~~595howtotraces~~.~~pdf~~ click here] (you can download it by right clicking the link, and selecting "save target as"). Express PCB says the board is 6.2 by 4.4 inches. I have been putting them on a board that is 7 by 4.5 inches.		To view/download my PCB trace file, [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=38&d=1245052361 click here] (you can download it by right clicking the link, and selecting "save target as"). Express PCB says the board is 6.2 by 4.4 inches. I have been putting them on a board that is 7 by 4.5 inches.

	I put two copies of the circuit board on the page to keep from wasting photo paper/tranparency film. Just print them from a laser printer onto inkjet photo paper, or inkjet transparency film, then cut them out of the page and iron them on.		I put two copies of the circuit board on the page to keep from wasting photo paper/tranparency film. Just print them from a laser printer onto inkjet photo paper, or inkjet transparency film, then cut them out of the page and iron them on.

	When you print the PDF file to the inkjet paper/transparancy, make sure adobe is not trying to resize the picture. I noticed mine said it was trying to print it at 96%. I had to change a setting to print it at 100%.		When you print the PDF file to the inkjet paper/transparancy, make sure adobe is not trying to resize the picture. I noticed mine said it was trying to print it at 96%. I had to change a setting to print it at 100%.


	==Step 2 : About the layout==		==Step 2 : About the layout==

G2ktcf: Sean's File hosting site is no longer available and many of the links here are broken.

2009-06-15T07:20:51Z

Sean's File hosting site is no longer available and many of the links here are broken.

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:20, 15 June 2009
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	<big>This is a copy of the HOWTO on [http://www.computerchristmas.com ComputerChristmas.com] authored by Sean Bowf, reproduced with permission.</big>		<big>This is a copy of the HOWTO on [http://www.computerchristmas.com ComputerChristmas.com] authored by Sean Bowf, reproduced with permission.</big>


	=Olsen595 Hardware=		=Olsen595 Hardware=
			'''''NOTICE: It seems that Sean's original file hosting is no longer available. This will be corrected soon with either new links or links to new files.'''''
	==Step 1: The PCB==		==Step 1: The PCB==

Phil Short at 02:17, 11 September 2007

2007-09-11T02:17:24Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:17, 11 September 2007
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	I use a custom made input cable. For the first two boards that I built, I did not put the input connector on the board. I just soldered the wires directly to the PCB. This will probably be what I do for most of the boards I build. The DB25 connector is about $2 at radio shack. I chose to use the solder on plug, but the crimp on should work just as good if you have all the associated tools to assemble it.		I use a custom made input cable. For the first two boards that I built, I did not put the input connector on the board. I just soldered the wires directly to the PCB. This will probably be what I do for most of the boards I build. The DB25 connector is about $2 at radio shack. I chose to use the solder on plug, but the crimp on should work just as good if you have all the associated tools to assemble it.

	~~If you are getting your 5VDC power from the power supply in the computer that is controlling the Olsen-595, you don't need to attach another ground.~~ If you are using an external power supply, you will need to connect the ground from the power supply to the ground from the computer. This can be done in the custom built input cable if you are using in input jack. Since I solder my input cable to the PCB, I do this at the PCB.		If you are using an external power supply, you will need to connect the ground from the power supply to the ground from the computer. This can be done in the custom built input cable if you are using in input jack. Since I solder my input cable to the PCB, I do this at the PCB. Even if you are getting your 5VDC power from the power supply in the computer that is controlling the Olsen-595, you should still attach the ground from that power connector to the 595 board in order to provide a good return path for the power (otherwise it may be more susceptible to noise).

	To see the pin-out of the LPT, got to the "How To" on this web site titled "Parallel Port Pinout." You will notice that there are a few pins you can get the ground from...I got mine from pin 18 because it is the closest pin to the other pins that are used (1, 2, and 14). On a side note, the picture in that How To is while looking at the jack on the computer. This also means it applies to looking at the BACK of the DB25 plug that plugs into it.		To see the pin-out of the LPT, got to the "How To" on this web site titled "Parallel Port Pinout." You will notice that there are a few pins you can get the ground from...I got mine from pin 18 because it is the closest pin to the other pins that are used (1, 2, and 14). On a side note, the picture in that How To is while looking at the jack on the computer. This also means it applies to looking at the BACK of the DB25 plug that plugs into it.

	Hopefully this How To answers more questions than it creates. If you see anything wrong with it, let me know. Good luck!!		Hopefully this How To answers more questions than it creates. If you see anything wrong with it, let me know. Good luck!!

Matt at 22:28, 16 August 2007

2007-08-16T22:28:39Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:28, 16 August 2007
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	==Step 1: The PCB==		==Step 1: The PCB==

	The usual disclaimer... If you use any of the information I provide here, you do so at your own risk. Its application and use are 100% your liability.		The usual disclaimer... If you use any of the information I provide here, you do so at your own risk. Its application and use are 100% your liability. Please see the ChristmasWiki [[Disclaimers]] as well.

	I have built this layout and have all 64 LEDs blinking so it has been tested.		I have built this layout and have all 64 LEDs blinking so it has been tested.

Macrosill at 15:03, 13 August 2007

2007-08-13T15:03:13Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:03, 13 August 2007
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	This how to is just as much about supplying resources (parts list, PCB layout, links, etc) as it is about how to put the controller together.		This how to is just as much about supplying resources (parts list, PCB layout, links, etc) as it is about how to put the controller together.

	The first thing I am going to talk about is making the PCB. To get to the the web site I used that showed how to etch the PCB, [http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm: click here]. The only thing I would like to add to his instructions is that I believe that the "touch up" phase of the process (after ironing the print onto the blank PCB) is understated in all the instructions I have found on line. I use a bottle of finger nail polish and a toothpick to touch up ANY place that I think MIGHT be a problem. Looking over the PCB and touching it up takes me 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the quality of the transfer. If the transfer is bad, I clean the transfer off the blank PCB with Acetone and start over.		The first thing I am going to talk about is making the PCB. To get to the the web site I used that showed how to etch the PCB, [http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm click here]. The only thing I would like to add to his instructions is that I believe that the "touch up" phase of the process (after ironing the print onto the blank PCB) is understated in all the instructions I have found on line. I use a bottle of finger nail polish and a toothpick to touch up ANY place that I think MIGHT be a problem. Looking over the PCB and touching it up takes me 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the quality of the transfer. If the transfer is bad, I clean the transfer off the blank PCB with Acetone and start over.

	I laid out the traces on my PCB using software called expressPCB. The software is free. To download the software go to this website, [http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm/Download.htm: click here] . A note about the software, the board you make has to be able to be printed on a sheet of paper. If is is larger (in any direction) the software will reduce the size of the layout when you print. You can get past this "feature" of the software by printing a wide PCB landscaped (as opposed to portrait), so it all fits on a single page.		I laid out the traces on my PCB using software called expressPCB. The software is free. To download the software go to this website, [http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm/Download.htm click here] . A note about the software, the board you make has to be able to be printed on a sheet of paper. If is is larger (in any direction) the software will reduce the size of the layout when you print. You can get past this "feature" of the software by printing a wide PCB landscaped (as opposed to portrait), so it all fits on a single page.

	After I made my PCB layout, I downloaded some software called primoPDF. This software installs a fake printer on the computer. When you print the PCB traces from expressPCB to the fake printer, it creates a PDF file.		After I made my PCB layout, I downloaded some software called primoPDF. This software installs a fake printer on the computer. When you print the PCB traces from expressPCB to the fake printer, it creates a PDF file.

	To view/download my PCB trace file, [http://home.sw.rr.com/bowf/595howtotraces.pdf: click here] (you can download it by right clicking the link, and selecting "save target as"). Express PCB says the board is 6.2 by 4.4 inches. I have been putting them on a board that is 7 by 4.5 inches.		To view/download my PCB trace file, [http://home.sw.rr.com/bowf/595howtotraces.pdf click here] (you can download it by right clicking the link, and selecting "save target as"). Express PCB says the board is 6.2 by 4.4 inches. I have been putting them on a board that is 7 by 4.5 inches.

	I put two copies of the circuit board on the page to keep from wasting photo paper/tranparency film. Just print them from a laser printer onto inkjet photo paper, or inkjet transparency film, then cut them out of the page and iron them on.		I put two copies of the circuit board on the page to keep from wasting photo paper/tranparency film. Just print them from a laser printer onto inkjet photo paper, or inkjet transparency film, then cut them out of the page and iron them on.
Line 47:		Line 47:
	==Step 4 : Installing the components==		==Step 4 : Installing the components==

	I created a parts list in excel with links to mouser for my PCB. The costs were accurate as of 23 January 2006. To see the parts list, [http://home.sw.rr.com/bowf/595howto/595howtopartslist.xls: click here]. They were out of the LEDs on the list when I ordered, so I ordered a different one with the same specs (2 volt, 10mA, T1).		I created a parts list in excel with links to mouser for my PCB. The costs were accurate as of 23 January 2006. To see the parts list, [http://home.sw.rr.com/bowf/595howto/595howtopartslist.xls click here]. They were out of the LEDs on the list when I ordered, so I ordered a different one with the same specs (2 volt, 10mA, T1).

	A little note about LEDs. The T1 LED component in expressPCB software is actually larger than a T1. It is about the size of a T1.75 LED. I have made a PCB with this layout using T1.75 LEDs and they fit. As to the part numbers for LEDs. I have tried about three different part numbers with resistors as high as 750 ohms with decent results. Here are the mouser part numbers for the LEDs I have tried:		A little note about LEDs. The T1 LED component in expressPCB software is actually larger than a T1. It is about the size of a T1.75 LED. I have made a PCB with this layout using T1.75 LEDs and they fit. As to the part numbers for LEDs. I have tried about three different part numbers with resistors as high as 750 ohms with decent results. Here are the mouser part numbers for the LEDs I have tried:

Macrosill at 15:02, 13 August 2007

2007-08-13T15:02:19Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:02, 13 August 2007
Line 11:		Line 11:
	This how to is just as much about supplying resources (parts list, PCB layout, links, etc) as it is about how to put the controller together.		This how to is just as much about supplying resources (parts list, PCB layout, links, etc) as it is about how to put the controller together.

	The first thing I am going to talk about is making the PCB. To get to the the web site I used that showed how to etch the PCB, [http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm\|click here]. The only thing I would like to add to his instructions is that I believe that the "touch up" phase of the process (after ironing the print onto the blank PCB) is understated in all the instructions I have found on line. I use a bottle of finger nail polish and a toothpick to touch up ANY place that I think MIGHT be a problem. Looking over the PCB and touching it up takes me 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the quality of the transfer. If the transfer is bad, I clean the transfer off the blank PCB with Acetone and start over.		The first thing I am going to talk about is making the PCB. To get to the the web site I used that showed how to etch the PCB, [http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm: click here]. The only thing I would like to add to his instructions is that I believe that the "touch up" phase of the process (after ironing the print onto the blank PCB) is understated in all the instructions I have found on line. I use a bottle of finger nail polish and a toothpick to touch up ANY place that I think MIGHT be a problem. Looking over the PCB and touching it up takes me 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the quality of the transfer. If the transfer is bad, I clean the transfer off the blank PCB with Acetone and start over.

	I laid out the traces on my PCB using software called expressPCB. The software is free. To download the software go to this website, [http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm/Download.htm\|click here] . A note about the software, the board you make has to be able to be printed on a sheet of paper. If is is larger (in any direction) the software will reduce the size of the layout when you print. You can get past this "feature" of the software by printing a wide PCB landscaped (as opposed to portrait), so it all fits on a single page.		I laid out the traces on my PCB using software called expressPCB. The software is free. To download the software go to this website, [http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm/Download.htm: click here] . A note about the software, the board you make has to be able to be printed on a sheet of paper. If is is larger (in any direction) the software will reduce the size of the layout when you print. You can get past this "feature" of the software by printing a wide PCB landscaped (as opposed to portrait), so it all fits on a single page.

	After I made my PCB layout, I downloaded some software called primoPDF. This software installs a fake printer on the computer. When you print the PCB traces from expressPCB to the fake printer, it creates a PDF file.		After I made my PCB layout, I downloaded some software called primoPDF. This software installs a fake printer on the computer. When you print the PCB traces from expressPCB to the fake printer, it creates a PDF file.

	To view/download my PCB trace file, [http://home.sw.rr.com/bowf/595howtotraces.pdf\|click here] (you can download it by right clicking the link, and selecting "save target as"). Express PCB says the board is 6.2 by 4.4 inches. I have been putting them on a board that is 7 by 4.5 inches.		To view/download my PCB trace file, [http://home.sw.rr.com/bowf/595howtotraces.pdf: click here] (you can download it by right clicking the link, and selecting "save target as"). Express PCB says the board is 6.2 by 4.4 inches. I have been putting them on a board that is 7 by 4.5 inches.

	I put two copies of the circuit board on the page to keep from wasting photo paper/tranparency film. Just print them from a laser printer onto inkjet photo paper, or inkjet transparency film, then cut them out of the page and iron them on.		I put two copies of the circuit board on the page to keep from wasting photo paper/tranparency film. Just print them from a laser printer onto inkjet photo paper, or inkjet transparency film, then cut them out of the page and iron them on.
Line 47:		Line 47:
	==Step 4 : Installing the components==		==Step 4 : Installing the components==

	I created a parts list in excel with links to mouser for my PCB. The costs were accurate as of 23 January 2006. To see the parts list, [http://home.sw.rr.com/bowf/595howto/595howtopartslist.xls\|click here]. They were out of the LEDs on the list when I ordered, so I ordered a different one with the same specs (2 volt, 10mA, T1).		I created a parts list in excel with links to mouser for my PCB. The costs were accurate as of 23 January 2006. To see the parts list, [http://home.sw.rr.com/bowf/595howto/595howtopartslist.xls: click here]. They were out of the LEDs on the list when I ordered, so I ordered a different one with the same specs (2 volt, 10mA, T1).

	A little note about LEDs. The T1 LED component in expressPCB software is actually larger than a T1. It is about the size of a T1.75 LED. I have made a PCB with this layout using T1.75 LEDs and they fit. As to the part numbers for LEDs. I have tried about three different part numbers with resistors as high as 750 ohms with decent results. Here are the mouser part numbers for the LEDs I have tried:		A little note about LEDs. The T1 LED component in expressPCB software is actually larger than a T1. It is about the size of a T1.75 LED. I have made a PCB with this layout using T1.75 LEDs and they fit. As to the part numbers for LEDs. I have tried about three different part numbers with resistors as high as 750 ohms with decent results. Here are the mouser part numbers for the LEDs I have tried:

Macrosill: /* Step 2 : About the layout */

2007-08-13T14:57:43Z

Step 2 : About the layout

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:57, 13 August 2007
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	The LEDs are optional. The board will run with or without them. If you don't install the LEDs, the SIPs are not needed either.		The LEDs are optional. The board will run with or without them. If you don't install the LEDs, the SIPs are not needed either.

	[[Image: Olsen595]]		[[Image: Olsen595.jpg]]


	==Step 3 : Drilling the PCB==		==Step 3 : Drilling the PCB==