doityourselfchristmas.com - User contributions [en]

Power Pops Fanout - 1 Input with 4 Outputs

2021-11-11T01:06:03Z

Ukewarrior: /* End User Pictures */

==The Pops Power Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter That has been LOAD Tested with Scientific Equipment.==

This board is designed to take one input DC power feed and split it into 4 Main outputs & 4 accessory (low amperage) outlets. 
The current version is v2.1.
 
 
Each Main output on the board has its own mini-automobile style fuse that is rated up to 5 amps. 
The four accessory outlets share one mini-automobile style fuse. 
Each fuse has a LED status indicator to show if power is flowing through that fuse; therefore showing that power is present and that the fuse is good.
 
 
There is a switch on the board that activates the function of all the status LEDs thereby allowing the user to turn off the LEDs unless needed. This switch does NOT turn off the power feed. It has no affect on the flow of power except to the LED indicators.
 
[[File:Pictureof v2-1.jpg]]
 



== Finished Board ==
[[Image:Purgeme2.jpg]]



== General Features ==

'''The Power Pops Fanout board has these main features''' 
'''1. Supports the splitting of up to 20 amps of DC power into 4 individual power outlets of up to 5 amps each.''' 
'''2. Has four accessory outlets to power low amperage devices like a voltmeter or a fan.''' 
'''3. Is a DIY board using all through hole components for easy DIY soldering.''' 
'''4. Was designed and LOAD TESTED to support up to 20 amps of DC power at a maximum of 28 Volts.'''
 
'''5. Input & output power can be soldered directly to the board or mounted via Screw down lugs(input) and 5mm terminal blocks(outputs).'''
 
'''6. Each Main power output is individually fused with a status LED indicating the state of power and the fuse.''' 
'''7. The four accessory outlets share one Fuse.''' 
'''8. The board measures 100x50mm''' 
'''9. Has 4 mounting holes.''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper(top & bottom) and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering.

== A LOAD TESTED Design ==

Full load testing was done with this distribution board to ensure that it could perform within the specified guidelines. 

Testing was done with genuine Mean Well power supplies in 5v, 12v, 24v and 36v, LRS-350 series. 
Load testing was done with TTi LD300 DC Electronic load equipment at 1a, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 10a, 15a and 20a. 
The pdf link below documents the testing that was done using 12awg stranded copper wire for input and 14awg stranded copper wire for output. 

[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38064&d=1510023884 Load Testing Report]

== Order some boards ==

You can order your own boards from Holiday Lighting. They are stock bare PCBs, Full DIY kits, and assembled units. 
You can find them at: http://holiday.lighting

== Fuses ==

[[Image:5_amp_fuse.jpg|right|small]]

The board has four independently fused power outputs. 
The board is designed to use mini automobile style fuses. 
Each main output fuse can be any value up to 5 Amps. 
It is recommended that the accessory fuse be set to no more than 1 amp.

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Power Pops Fanout board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The Power Pops Fanout board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these parts:

- Two screw down power lugs for power input. The board was designed to use part B12-PCB-S from LugsDirect.com. Link: https://lugsdirect.com/B12-PCB.htm 
- Four 5.08mm terminal blocks for power output. These are often referred to as 5mm terminal blocks too. 
- Five 1/4W resistors. The value of the resistors depends on the input voltage and LED used. However, a value of 1.2K will work for most LEDs. 
- Five indicator 3mm LEDs. Any color can be used. The Forward Voltage and current draw of the LED factor into the resistor value combination. 
- Four Fuses, mini Automobile style, any combination with any value up to 5 Amps maximum, for the main power outputs. 
- One Fuse, mini Automobile style, with a value up to 1 Amps maximum, for the accessory power outputs. 
- Five Fuse Holders, specifically Keystone parts: 3544-2 or 3634-2. Please note that 3634-2 has a mechanism to hold the fuse especially tight. Some folks may find this annoying; therefore, 3544-2 is recommended. 
- One SPDT mini switch. eg. digikey part: 450-1609-ND or Sparkfun part: COM-09609 If you look around, you can often find these at other suppliers for much less than digikey or sparkfun. The leads on this switch are spaced at .1" apart or 2.54mm which is the same as your typical pin header strip. 
- Four, two pin, pin headers, 2.54mm lead spacing. You can also use a terminal block with 2.54mm lead spacing.

== Construction Information ==

One specific oddity that may not be obvious is that the fuse holder board pins are not spaced evenly from side to side. Therefore, there is only one correct orientation as shown by the fuse holder outline on the board. 

The LEDs have a horizontal line above one of the mounting holes. This is the LED cathode (usually indicated by a flat spot on the side of the LED) 

The resistors can go on in any fashion as they are not polarity sensitive. 

As noted on the board, the input wires should be 12, 14 or 16 AWG. If using 16 AWG or if using stranded twisted wires, the lug manufacturer recommends the use of wire ferrules. 

The only tricky part of assembling the board is the input power lugs as these have a very large surface area to cover. Just take your time and have plenty of solder ready to use. You should put solder on both the top and bottom of the board. Be sure to fill the mounting holes completely. NOTE: be sure the screws are tight before soldering to ensure the lug body is tight against the PCB as you solder. 

It is suggested you solder the lugs on first, followed by the fuse holders, output terminal blocks, pin headers, resistors, the switch, and finally the LEDs.

== Board Layout Diagrams ==

The pdf linked below shows the hole layout dimensions. 
The outer dimenstion of the board is exactly 100mm x 50mm. 
[[Media:Power_board_hole_layout.pdf]]
 

The pdf linked below can be opened and printed for a drilling template.
Be sure to print it without any scaling. i.e. print at 1:1 by turning OFF the FIT TO PAGE or SCALE option which by default is turned on.

[[Media:Power_board_layout.pdf]]

== End User Pictures ==

Here is '''Kev7274''' testing out the placement of voltmeters on one of his boards: (the alligator clips are just for testing)
[[File:Kev7274.jpg]]
 
'''pmiller''' mounted a voltmeter with through hole screws.
He could do this because the top half of the board is the positive power plane, both top and bottom. As long as you don't get into the traces for the low amperage connectors, this will work...and Bob's your Uncle!
[[File:Purgemex.jpg]] 
Braveit1 created a custom mounting plate for 3D printing and added a voltmeter to his board. 
Here the link to the board. It fits harbor freight ammo cans: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3929289 3D print file] 
[[File:Distroboard.png]]

Power Pops Fanout - 1 Input with 4 Outputs

2021-11-11T01:05:38Z

Ukewarrior: /* End User Pictures */

==The Pops Power Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter That has been LOAD Tested with Scientific Equipment.==

This board is designed to take one input DC power feed and split it into 4 Main outputs & 4 accessory (low amperage) outlets. 
The current version is v2.1.
 
 
Each Main output on the board has its own mini-automobile style fuse that is rated up to 5 amps. 
The four accessory outlets share one mini-automobile style fuse. 
Each fuse has a LED status indicator to show if power is flowing through that fuse; therefore showing that power is present and that the fuse is good.
 
 
There is a switch on the board that activates the function of all the status LEDs thereby allowing the user to turn off the LEDs unless needed. This switch does NOT turn off the power feed. It has no affect on the flow of power except to the LED indicators.
 
[[File:Pictureof v2-1.jpg]]
 



== Finished Board ==
[[Image:Purgeme2.jpg]]



== General Features ==

'''The Power Pops Fanout board has these main features''' 
'''1. Supports the splitting of up to 20 amps of DC power into 4 individual power outlets of up to 5 amps each.''' 
'''2. Has four accessory outlets to power low amperage devices like a voltmeter or a fan.''' 
'''3. Is a DIY board using all through hole components for easy DIY soldering.''' 
'''4. Was designed and LOAD TESTED to support up to 20 amps of DC power at a maximum of 28 Volts.'''
 
'''5. Input & output power can be soldered directly to the board or mounted via Screw down lugs(input) and 5mm terminal blocks(outputs).'''
 
'''6. Each Main power output is individually fused with a status LED indicating the state of power and the fuse.''' 
'''7. The four accessory outlets share one Fuse.''' 
'''8. The board measures 100x50mm''' 
'''9. Has 4 mounting holes.''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper(top & bottom) and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering.

== A LOAD TESTED Design ==

Full load testing was done with this distribution board to ensure that it could perform within the specified guidelines. 

Testing was done with genuine Mean Well power supplies in 5v, 12v, 24v and 36v, LRS-350 series. 
Load testing was done with TTi LD300 DC Electronic load equipment at 1a, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 10a, 15a and 20a. 
The pdf link below documents the testing that was done using 12awg stranded copper wire for input and 14awg stranded copper wire for output. 

[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38064&d=1510023884 Load Testing Report]

== Order some boards ==

You can order your own boards from Holiday Lighting. They are stock bare PCBs, Full DIY kits, and assembled units. 
You can find them at: http://holiday.lighting

== Fuses ==

[[Image:5_amp_fuse.jpg|right|small]]

The board has four independently fused power outputs. 
The board is designed to use mini automobile style fuses. 
Each main output fuse can be any value up to 5 Amps. 
It is recommended that the accessory fuse be set to no more than 1 amp.

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Power Pops Fanout board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The Power Pops Fanout board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these parts:

- Two screw down power lugs for power input. The board was designed to use part B12-PCB-S from LugsDirect.com. Link: https://lugsdirect.com/B12-PCB.htm 
- Four 5.08mm terminal blocks for power output. These are often referred to as 5mm terminal blocks too. 
- Five 1/4W resistors. The value of the resistors depends on the input voltage and LED used. However, a value of 1.2K will work for most LEDs. 
- Five indicator 3mm LEDs. Any color can be used. The Forward Voltage and current draw of the LED factor into the resistor value combination. 
- Four Fuses, mini Automobile style, any combination with any value up to 5 Amps maximum, for the main power outputs. 
- One Fuse, mini Automobile style, with a value up to 1 Amps maximum, for the accessory power outputs. 
- Five Fuse Holders, specifically Keystone parts: 3544-2 or 3634-2. Please note that 3634-2 has a mechanism to hold the fuse especially tight. Some folks may find this annoying; therefore, 3544-2 is recommended. 
- One SPDT mini switch. eg. digikey part: 450-1609-ND or Sparkfun part: COM-09609 If you look around, you can often find these at other suppliers for much less than digikey or sparkfun. The leads on this switch are spaced at .1" apart or 2.54mm which is the same as your typical pin header strip. 
- Four, two pin, pin headers, 2.54mm lead spacing. You can also use a terminal block with 2.54mm lead spacing.

== Construction Information ==

One specific oddity that may not be obvious is that the fuse holder board pins are not spaced evenly from side to side. Therefore, there is only one correct orientation as shown by the fuse holder outline on the board. 

The LEDs have a horizontal line above one of the mounting holes. This is the LED cathode (usually indicated by a flat spot on the side of the LED) 

The resistors can go on in any fashion as they are not polarity sensitive. 

As noted on the board, the input wires should be 12, 14 or 16 AWG. If using 16 AWG or if using stranded twisted wires, the lug manufacturer recommends the use of wire ferrules. 

The only tricky part of assembling the board is the input power lugs as these have a very large surface area to cover. Just take your time and have plenty of solder ready to use. You should put solder on both the top and bottom of the board. Be sure to fill the mounting holes completely. NOTE: be sure the screws are tight before soldering to ensure the lug body is tight against the PCB as you solder. 

It is suggested you solder the lugs on first, followed by the fuse holders, output terminal blocks, pin headers, resistors, the switch, and finally the LEDs.

== Board Layout Diagrams ==

The pdf linked below shows the hole layout dimensions. 
The outer dimenstion of the board is exactly 100mm x 50mm. 
[[Media:Power_board_hole_layout.pdf]]
 

The pdf linked below can be opened and printed for a drilling template.
Be sure to print it without any scaling. i.e. print at 1:1 by turning OFF the FIT TO PAGE or SCALE option which by default is turned on.

[[Media:Power_board_layout.pdf]]

== End User Pictures ==

Here is '''Kev7274''' testing out the placement of voltmeters on one of his boards: (the alligator clips are just for testing)
[[File:Kev7274.jpg]]
 
'''pmiller''' mounted a voltmeter with through hole screws.
He could do this because the top half of the board is the positive power plane, both top and bottom. As long as you don't get into the traces for the low amperage connectors, this will work...and Bob's your Uncle!
[[File:Purgemex.jpg]] 
Braveit1 created a custom mounting plate for 3D printing and added a voltmeter to his board. 
Here the link to the board. It fits harbor freight ammo cans: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3929289 3D print file] 
[[File:Distroboard.png]]

Power Pops Fanout - 1 Input with 4 Outputs

2021-11-11T01:05:12Z

Ukewarrior: /* End User Pictures */

==The Pops Power Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter That has been LOAD Tested with Scientific Equipment.==

This board is designed to take one input DC power feed and split it into 4 Main outputs & 4 accessory (low amperage) outlets. 
The current version is v2.1.
 
 
Each Main output on the board has its own mini-automobile style fuse that is rated up to 5 amps. 
The four accessory outlets share one mini-automobile style fuse. 
Each fuse has a LED status indicator to show if power is flowing through that fuse; therefore showing that power is present and that the fuse is good.
 
 
There is a switch on the board that activates the function of all the status LEDs thereby allowing the user to turn off the LEDs unless needed. This switch does NOT turn off the power feed. It has no affect on the flow of power except to the LED indicators.
 
[[File:Pictureof v2-1.jpg]]
 



== Finished Board ==
[[Image:Purgeme2.jpg]]



== General Features ==

'''The Power Pops Fanout board has these main features''' 
'''1. Supports the splitting of up to 20 amps of DC power into 4 individual power outlets of up to 5 amps each.''' 
'''2. Has four accessory outlets to power low amperage devices like a voltmeter or a fan.''' 
'''3. Is a DIY board using all through hole components for easy DIY soldering.''' 
'''4. Was designed and LOAD TESTED to support up to 20 amps of DC power at a maximum of 28 Volts.'''
 
'''5. Input & output power can be soldered directly to the board or mounted via Screw down lugs(input) and 5mm terminal blocks(outputs).'''
 
'''6. Each Main power output is individually fused with a status LED indicating the state of power and the fuse.''' 
'''7. The four accessory outlets share one Fuse.''' 
'''8. The board measures 100x50mm''' 
'''9. Has 4 mounting holes.''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper(top & bottom) and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering.

== A LOAD TESTED Design ==

Full load testing was done with this distribution board to ensure that it could perform within the specified guidelines. 

Testing was done with genuine Mean Well power supplies in 5v, 12v, 24v and 36v, LRS-350 series. 
Load testing was done with TTi LD300 DC Electronic load equipment at 1a, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 10a, 15a and 20a. 
The pdf link below documents the testing that was done using 12awg stranded copper wire for input and 14awg stranded copper wire for output. 

[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38064&d=1510023884 Load Testing Report]

== Order some boards ==

You can order your own boards from Holiday Lighting. They are stock bare PCBs, Full DIY kits, and assembled units. 
You can find them at: http://holiday.lighting

== Fuses ==

[[Image:5_amp_fuse.jpg|right|small]]

The board has four independently fused power outputs. 
The board is designed to use mini automobile style fuses. 
Each main output fuse can be any value up to 5 Amps. 
It is recommended that the accessory fuse be set to no more than 1 amp.

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Power Pops Fanout board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The Power Pops Fanout board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these parts:

- Two screw down power lugs for power input. The board was designed to use part B12-PCB-S from LugsDirect.com. Link: https://lugsdirect.com/B12-PCB.htm 
- Four 5.08mm terminal blocks for power output. These are often referred to as 5mm terminal blocks too. 
- Five 1/4W resistors. The value of the resistors depends on the input voltage and LED used. However, a value of 1.2K will work for most LEDs. 
- Five indicator 3mm LEDs. Any color can be used. The Forward Voltage and current draw of the LED factor into the resistor value combination. 
- Four Fuses, mini Automobile style, any combination with any value up to 5 Amps maximum, for the main power outputs. 
- One Fuse, mini Automobile style, with a value up to 1 Amps maximum, for the accessory power outputs. 
- Five Fuse Holders, specifically Keystone parts: 3544-2 or 3634-2. Please note that 3634-2 has a mechanism to hold the fuse especially tight. Some folks may find this annoying; therefore, 3544-2 is recommended. 
- One SPDT mini switch. eg. digikey part: 450-1609-ND or Sparkfun part: COM-09609 If you look around, you can often find these at other suppliers for much less than digikey or sparkfun. The leads on this switch are spaced at .1" apart or 2.54mm which is the same as your typical pin header strip. 
- Four, two pin, pin headers, 2.54mm lead spacing. You can also use a terminal block with 2.54mm lead spacing.

== Construction Information ==

One specific oddity that may not be obvious is that the fuse holder board pins are not spaced evenly from side to side. Therefore, there is only one correct orientation as shown by the fuse holder outline on the board. 

The LEDs have a horizontal line above one of the mounting holes. This is the LED cathode (usually indicated by a flat spot on the side of the LED) 

The resistors can go on in any fashion as they are not polarity sensitive. 

As noted on the board, the input wires should be 12, 14 or 16 AWG. If using 16 AWG or if using stranded twisted wires, the lug manufacturer recommends the use of wire ferrules. 

The only tricky part of assembling the board is the input power lugs as these have a very large surface area to cover. Just take your time and have plenty of solder ready to use. You should put solder on both the top and bottom of the board. Be sure to fill the mounting holes completely. NOTE: be sure the screws are tight before soldering to ensure the lug body is tight against the PCB as you solder. 

It is suggested you solder the lugs on first, followed by the fuse holders, output terminal blocks, pin headers, resistors, the switch, and finally the LEDs.

== Board Layout Diagrams ==

The pdf linked below shows the hole layout dimensions. 
The outer dimenstion of the board is exactly 100mm x 50mm. 
[[Media:Power_board_hole_layout.pdf]]
 

The pdf linked below can be opened and printed for a drilling template.
Be sure to print it without any scaling. i.e. print at 1:1 by turning OFF the FIT TO PAGE or SCALE option which by default is turned on.

[[Media:Power_board_layout.pdf]]

== End User Pictures ==

Here is '''Kev7274''' testing out the placement of voltmeters on one of his boards: (the alligator clips are just for testing)
[[File:Kev7274.jpg]]
 
'''pmiller''' mounted a voltmeter with through hole screws.
He could do this because the top half of the board is the positive power plane, both top and bottom. As long as you don't get into the traces for the low amperage connectors, this will work...and Bob's your Uncle!
[[File:Purgemex.jpg]] 
Braveit1 created a custom mounting plate for 3D printing and added a voltmeter to his board.
Here the link to the board. It fits harbor freight ammo cans: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3929289 3D print file]
[[File:Distroboard.png]]

Power Pops Fanout - 1 Input with 4 Outputs

2021-11-11T01:04:10Z

Ukewarrior: /* End User Pictures */

==The Pops Power Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter That has been LOAD Tested with Scientific Equipment.==

This board is designed to take one input DC power feed and split it into 4 Main outputs & 4 accessory (low amperage) outlets. 
The current version is v2.1.
 
 
Each Main output on the board has its own mini-automobile style fuse that is rated up to 5 amps. 
The four accessory outlets share one mini-automobile style fuse. 
Each fuse has a LED status indicator to show if power is flowing through that fuse; therefore showing that power is present and that the fuse is good.
 
 
There is a switch on the board that activates the function of all the status LEDs thereby allowing the user to turn off the LEDs unless needed. This switch does NOT turn off the power feed. It has no affect on the flow of power except to the LED indicators.
 
[[File:Pictureof v2-1.jpg]]
 



== Finished Board ==
[[Image:Purgeme2.jpg]]



== General Features ==

'''The Power Pops Fanout board has these main features''' 
'''1. Supports the splitting of up to 20 amps of DC power into 4 individual power outlets of up to 5 amps each.''' 
'''2. Has four accessory outlets to power low amperage devices like a voltmeter or a fan.''' 
'''3. Is a DIY board using all through hole components for easy DIY soldering.''' 
'''4. Was designed and LOAD TESTED to support up to 20 amps of DC power at a maximum of 28 Volts.'''
 
'''5. Input & output power can be soldered directly to the board or mounted via Screw down lugs(input) and 5mm terminal blocks(outputs).'''
 
'''6. Each Main power output is individually fused with a status LED indicating the state of power and the fuse.''' 
'''7. The four accessory outlets share one Fuse.''' 
'''8. The board measures 100x50mm''' 
'''9. Has 4 mounting holes.''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper(top & bottom) and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering.

== A LOAD TESTED Design ==

Full load testing was done with this distribution board to ensure that it could perform within the specified guidelines. 

Testing was done with genuine Mean Well power supplies in 5v, 12v, 24v and 36v, LRS-350 series. 
Load testing was done with TTi LD300 DC Electronic load equipment at 1a, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 10a, 15a and 20a. 
The pdf link below documents the testing that was done using 12awg stranded copper wire for input and 14awg stranded copper wire for output. 

[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38064&d=1510023884 Load Testing Report]

== Order some boards ==

You can order your own boards from Holiday Lighting. They are stock bare PCBs, Full DIY kits, and assembled units. 
You can find them at: http://holiday.lighting

== Fuses ==

[[Image:5_amp_fuse.jpg|right|small]]

The board has four independently fused power outputs. 
The board is designed to use mini automobile style fuses. 
Each main output fuse can be any value up to 5 Amps. 
It is recommended that the accessory fuse be set to no more than 1 amp.

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Power Pops Fanout board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The Power Pops Fanout board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these parts:

- Two screw down power lugs for power input. The board was designed to use part B12-PCB-S from LugsDirect.com. Link: https://lugsdirect.com/B12-PCB.htm 
- Four 5.08mm terminal blocks for power output. These are often referred to as 5mm terminal blocks too. 
- Five 1/4W resistors. The value of the resistors depends on the input voltage and LED used. However, a value of 1.2K will work for most LEDs. 
- Five indicator 3mm LEDs. Any color can be used. The Forward Voltage and current draw of the LED factor into the resistor value combination. 
- Four Fuses, mini Automobile style, any combination with any value up to 5 Amps maximum, for the main power outputs. 
- One Fuse, mini Automobile style, with a value up to 1 Amps maximum, for the accessory power outputs. 
- Five Fuse Holders, specifically Keystone parts: 3544-2 or 3634-2. Please note that 3634-2 has a mechanism to hold the fuse especially tight. Some folks may find this annoying; therefore, 3544-2 is recommended. 
- One SPDT mini switch. eg. digikey part: 450-1609-ND or Sparkfun part: COM-09609 If you look around, you can often find these at other suppliers for much less than digikey or sparkfun. The leads on this switch are spaced at .1" apart or 2.54mm which is the same as your typical pin header strip. 
- Four, two pin, pin headers, 2.54mm lead spacing. You can also use a terminal block with 2.54mm lead spacing.

== Construction Information ==

One specific oddity that may not be obvious is that the fuse holder board pins are not spaced evenly from side to side. Therefore, there is only one correct orientation as shown by the fuse holder outline on the board. 

The LEDs have a horizontal line above one of the mounting holes. This is the LED cathode (usually indicated by a flat spot on the side of the LED) 

The resistors can go on in any fashion as they are not polarity sensitive. 

As noted on the board, the input wires should be 12, 14 or 16 AWG. If using 16 AWG or if using stranded twisted wires, the lug manufacturer recommends the use of wire ferrules. 

The only tricky part of assembling the board is the input power lugs as these have a very large surface area to cover. Just take your time and have plenty of solder ready to use. You should put solder on both the top and bottom of the board. Be sure to fill the mounting holes completely. NOTE: be sure the screws are tight before soldering to ensure the lug body is tight against the PCB as you solder. 

It is suggested you solder the lugs on first, followed by the fuse holders, output terminal blocks, pin headers, resistors, the switch, and finally the LEDs.

== Board Layout Diagrams ==

The pdf linked below shows the hole layout dimensions. 
The outer dimenstion of the board is exactly 100mm x 50mm. 
[[Media:Power_board_hole_layout.pdf]]
 

The pdf linked below can be opened and printed for a drilling template.
Be sure to print it without any scaling. i.e. print at 1:1 by turning OFF the FIT TO PAGE or SCALE option which by default is turned on.

[[Media:Power_board_layout.pdf]]

== End User Pictures ==

Here is '''Kev7274''' testing out the placement of voltmeters on one of his boards: (the alligator clips are just for testing)
[[File:Kev7274.jpg]]
 
'''pmiller''' mounted a voltmeter with through hole screws.
He could do this because the top half of the board is the positive power plane, both top and bottom. As long as you don't get into the traces for the low amperage connectors, this will work...and Bob's your Uncle!
[[File:Purgemex.jpg]] 
Braveit1 created a custom mounting plate for 3D printing and added a voltmeter to his board.
[[File:Distroboard.png]]

File:Distroboard.png

2021-11-11T01:03:42Z

Ukewarrior:

Power Pops Fanout - 1 Input with 4 Outputs

2021-11-11T01:01:50Z

Ukewarrior: /* End User Pictures */

==The Pops Power Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter That has been LOAD Tested with Scientific Equipment.==

This board is designed to take one input DC power feed and split it into 4 Main outputs & 4 accessory (low amperage) outlets. 
The current version is v2.1.
 
 
Each Main output on the board has its own mini-automobile style fuse that is rated up to 5 amps. 
The four accessory outlets share one mini-automobile style fuse. 
Each fuse has a LED status indicator to show if power is flowing through that fuse; therefore showing that power is present and that the fuse is good.
 
 
There is a switch on the board that activates the function of all the status LEDs thereby allowing the user to turn off the LEDs unless needed. This switch does NOT turn off the power feed. It has no affect on the flow of power except to the LED indicators.
 
[[File:Pictureof v2-1.jpg]]
 



== Finished Board ==
[[Image:Purgeme2.jpg]]



== General Features ==

'''The Power Pops Fanout board has these main features''' 
'''1. Supports the splitting of up to 20 amps of DC power into 4 individual power outlets of up to 5 amps each.''' 
'''2. Has four accessory outlets to power low amperage devices like a voltmeter or a fan.''' 
'''3. Is a DIY board using all through hole components for easy DIY soldering.''' 
'''4. Was designed and LOAD TESTED to support up to 20 amps of DC power at a maximum of 28 Volts.'''
 
'''5. Input & output power can be soldered directly to the board or mounted via Screw down lugs(input) and 5mm terminal blocks(outputs).'''
 
'''6. Each Main power output is individually fused with a status LED indicating the state of power and the fuse.''' 
'''7. The four accessory outlets share one Fuse.''' 
'''8. The board measures 100x50mm''' 
'''9. Has 4 mounting holes.''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper(top & bottom) and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering.

== A LOAD TESTED Design ==

Full load testing was done with this distribution board to ensure that it could perform within the specified guidelines. 

Testing was done with genuine Mean Well power supplies in 5v, 12v, 24v and 36v, LRS-350 series. 
Load testing was done with TTi LD300 DC Electronic load equipment at 1a, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 10a, 15a and 20a. 
The pdf link below documents the testing that was done using 12awg stranded copper wire for input and 14awg stranded copper wire for output. 

[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38064&d=1510023884 Load Testing Report]

== Order some boards ==

You can order your own boards from Holiday Lighting. They are stock bare PCBs, Full DIY kits, and assembled units. 
You can find them at: http://holiday.lighting

== Fuses ==

[[Image:5_amp_fuse.jpg|right|small]]

The board has four independently fused power outputs. 
The board is designed to use mini automobile style fuses. 
Each main output fuse can be any value up to 5 Amps. 
It is recommended that the accessory fuse be set to no more than 1 amp.

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Power Pops Fanout board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The Power Pops Fanout board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these parts:

- Two screw down power lugs for power input. The board was designed to use part B12-PCB-S from LugsDirect.com. Link: https://lugsdirect.com/B12-PCB.htm 
- Four 5.08mm terminal blocks for power output. These are often referred to as 5mm terminal blocks too. 
- Five 1/4W resistors. The value of the resistors depends on the input voltage and LED used. However, a value of 1.2K will work for most LEDs. 
- Five indicator 3mm LEDs. Any color can be used. The Forward Voltage and current draw of the LED factor into the resistor value combination. 
- Four Fuses, mini Automobile style, any combination with any value up to 5 Amps maximum, for the main power outputs. 
- One Fuse, mini Automobile style, with a value up to 1 Amps maximum, for the accessory power outputs. 
- Five Fuse Holders, specifically Keystone parts: 3544-2 or 3634-2. Please note that 3634-2 has a mechanism to hold the fuse especially tight. Some folks may find this annoying; therefore, 3544-2 is recommended. 
- One SPDT mini switch. eg. digikey part: 450-1609-ND or Sparkfun part: COM-09609 If you look around, you can often find these at other suppliers for much less than digikey or sparkfun. The leads on this switch are spaced at .1" apart or 2.54mm which is the same as your typical pin header strip. 
- Four, two pin, pin headers, 2.54mm lead spacing. You can also use a terminal block with 2.54mm lead spacing.

== Construction Information ==

One specific oddity that may not be obvious is that the fuse holder board pins are not spaced evenly from side to side. Therefore, there is only one correct orientation as shown by the fuse holder outline on the board. 

The LEDs have a horizontal line above one of the mounting holes. This is the LED cathode (usually indicated by a flat spot on the side of the LED) 

The resistors can go on in any fashion as they are not polarity sensitive. 

As noted on the board, the input wires should be 12, 14 or 16 AWG. If using 16 AWG or if using stranded twisted wires, the lug manufacturer recommends the use of wire ferrules. 

The only tricky part of assembling the board is the input power lugs as these have a very large surface area to cover. Just take your time and have plenty of solder ready to use. You should put solder on both the top and bottom of the board. Be sure to fill the mounting holes completely. NOTE: be sure the screws are tight before soldering to ensure the lug body is tight against the PCB as you solder. 

It is suggested you solder the lugs on first, followed by the fuse holders, output terminal blocks, pin headers, resistors, the switch, and finally the LEDs.

== Board Layout Diagrams ==

The pdf linked below shows the hole layout dimensions. 
The outer dimenstion of the board is exactly 100mm x 50mm. 
[[Media:Power_board_hole_layout.pdf]]
 

The pdf linked below can be opened and printed for a drilling template.
Be sure to print it without any scaling. i.e. print at 1:1 by turning OFF the FIT TO PAGE or SCALE option which by default is turned on.

[[Media:Power_board_layout.pdf]]

== End User Pictures ==

Here is '''Kev7274''' testing out the placement of voltmeters on one of his boards: (the alligator clips are just for testing)
[[File:Kev7274.jpg]]
 
'''pmiller''' mounted a voltmeter with through hole screws.
He could do this because the top half of the board is the positive power plane, both top and bottom. As long as you don't get into the traces for the low amperage connectors, this will work...and Bob's your Uncle!
[[File:Purgemex.jpg]] 
Braveit1 created a custom mounting plate for 3D printing and added a voltmeter to his board.
[[File:Purgemex.jpg]]

Power Pops Fanout - 1 Input with 4 Outputs

2021-11-11T00:59:45Z

Ukewarrior: /* Construction Information */

==The Pops Power Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter That has been LOAD Tested with Scientific Equipment.==

This board is designed to take one input DC power feed and split it into 4 Main outputs & 4 accessory (low amperage) outlets. 
The current version is v2.1.
 
 
Each Main output on the board has its own mini-automobile style fuse that is rated up to 5 amps. 
The four accessory outlets share one mini-automobile style fuse. 
Each fuse has a LED status indicator to show if power is flowing through that fuse; therefore showing that power is present and that the fuse is good.
 
 
There is a switch on the board that activates the function of all the status LEDs thereby allowing the user to turn off the LEDs unless needed. This switch does NOT turn off the power feed. It has no affect on the flow of power except to the LED indicators.
 
[[File:Pictureof v2-1.jpg]]
 



== Finished Board ==
[[Image:Purgeme2.jpg]]



== General Features ==

'''The Power Pops Fanout board has these main features''' 
'''1. Supports the splitting of up to 20 amps of DC power into 4 individual power outlets of up to 5 amps each.''' 
'''2. Has four accessory outlets to power low amperage devices like a voltmeter or a fan.''' 
'''3. Is a DIY board using all through hole components for easy DIY soldering.''' 
'''4. Was designed and LOAD TESTED to support up to 20 amps of DC power at a maximum of 28 Volts.'''
 
'''5. Input & output power can be soldered directly to the board or mounted via Screw down lugs(input) and 5mm terminal blocks(outputs).'''
 
'''6. Each Main power output is individually fused with a status LED indicating the state of power and the fuse.''' 
'''7. The four accessory outlets share one Fuse.''' 
'''8. The board measures 100x50mm''' 
'''9. Has 4 mounting holes.''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper(top & bottom) and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering.

== A LOAD TESTED Design ==

Full load testing was done with this distribution board to ensure that it could perform within the specified guidelines. 

Testing was done with genuine Mean Well power supplies in 5v, 12v, 24v and 36v, LRS-350 series. 
Load testing was done with TTi LD300 DC Electronic load equipment at 1a, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 10a, 15a and 20a. 
The pdf link below documents the testing that was done using 12awg stranded copper wire for input and 14awg stranded copper wire for output. 

[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38064&d=1510023884 Load Testing Report]

== Order some boards ==

You can order your own boards from Holiday Lighting. They are stock bare PCBs, Full DIY kits, and assembled units. 
You can find them at: http://holiday.lighting

== Fuses ==

[[Image:5_amp_fuse.jpg|right|small]]

The board has four independently fused power outputs. 
The board is designed to use mini automobile style fuses. 
Each main output fuse can be any value up to 5 Amps. 
It is recommended that the accessory fuse be set to no more than 1 amp.

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Power Pops Fanout board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The Power Pops Fanout board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these parts:

- Two screw down power lugs for power input. The board was designed to use part B12-PCB-S from LugsDirect.com. Link: https://lugsdirect.com/B12-PCB.htm 
- Four 5.08mm terminal blocks for power output. These are often referred to as 5mm terminal blocks too. 
- Five 1/4W resistors. The value of the resistors depends on the input voltage and LED used. However, a value of 1.2K will work for most LEDs. 
- Five indicator 3mm LEDs. Any color can be used. The Forward Voltage and current draw of the LED factor into the resistor value combination. 
- Four Fuses, mini Automobile style, any combination with any value up to 5 Amps maximum, for the main power outputs. 
- One Fuse, mini Automobile style, with a value up to 1 Amps maximum, for the accessory power outputs. 
- Five Fuse Holders, specifically Keystone parts: 3544-2 or 3634-2. Please note that 3634-2 has a mechanism to hold the fuse especially tight. Some folks may find this annoying; therefore, 3544-2 is recommended. 
- One SPDT mini switch. eg. digikey part: 450-1609-ND or Sparkfun part: COM-09609 If you look around, you can often find these at other suppliers for much less than digikey or sparkfun. The leads on this switch are spaced at .1" apart or 2.54mm which is the same as your typical pin header strip. 
- Four, two pin, pin headers, 2.54mm lead spacing. You can also use a terminal block with 2.54mm lead spacing.

== Construction Information ==

One specific oddity that may not be obvious is that the fuse holder board pins are not spaced evenly from side to side. Therefore, there is only one correct orientation as shown by the fuse holder outline on the board. 

The LEDs have a horizontal line above one of the mounting holes. This is the LED cathode (usually indicated by a flat spot on the side of the LED) 

The resistors can go on in any fashion as they are not polarity sensitive. 

As noted on the board, the input wires should be 12, 14 or 16 AWG. If using 16 AWG or if using stranded twisted wires, the lug manufacturer recommends the use of wire ferrules. 

The only tricky part of assembling the board is the input power lugs as these have a very large surface area to cover. Just take your time and have plenty of solder ready to use. You should put solder on both the top and bottom of the board. Be sure to fill the mounting holes completely. NOTE: be sure the screws are tight before soldering to ensure the lug body is tight against the PCB as you solder. 

It is suggested you solder the lugs on first, followed by the fuse holders, output terminal blocks, pin headers, resistors, the switch, and finally the LEDs.

== Board Layout Diagrams ==

The pdf linked below shows the hole layout dimensions. 
The outer dimenstion of the board is exactly 100mm x 50mm. 
[[Media:Power_board_hole_layout.pdf]]
 

The pdf linked below can be opened and printed for a drilling template.
Be sure to print it without any scaling. i.e. print at 1:1 by turning OFF the FIT TO PAGE or SCALE option which by default is turned on.

[[Media:Power_board_layout.pdf]]

== End User Pictures ==

Here is '''Kev7274''' testing out the placement of voltmeters on one of his boards: (the alligator clips are just for testing)
[[File:Kev7274.jpg]]
 
'''pmiller''' mounted a voltmeter with through hole screws.
He could do this because the top half of the board is the positive power plane, both top and bottom. As long as you don't get into the traces for the low amperage connectors, this will work...and Bob's your Uncle!
[[File:Purgemex.jpg]]

Power Pops Fanout - 1 Input with 4 Outputs

2021-11-11T00:59:12Z

Ukewarrior: /* Construction Information */

==The Pops Power Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter That has been LOAD Tested with Scientific Equipment.==

This board is designed to take one input DC power feed and split it into 4 Main outputs & 4 accessory (low amperage) outlets. 
The current version is v2.1.
 
 
Each Main output on the board has its own mini-automobile style fuse that is rated up to 5 amps. 
The four accessory outlets share one mini-automobile style fuse. 
Each fuse has a LED status indicator to show if power is flowing through that fuse; therefore showing that power is present and that the fuse is good.
 
 
There is a switch on the board that activates the function of all the status LEDs thereby allowing the user to turn off the LEDs unless needed. This switch does NOT turn off the power feed. It has no affect on the flow of power except to the LED indicators.
 
[[File:Pictureof v2-1.jpg]]
 



== Finished Board ==
[[Image:Purgeme2.jpg]]



== General Features ==

'''The Power Pops Fanout board has these main features''' 
'''1. Supports the splitting of up to 20 amps of DC power into 4 individual power outlets of up to 5 amps each.''' 
'''2. Has four accessory outlets to power low amperage devices like a voltmeter or a fan.''' 
'''3. Is a DIY board using all through hole components for easy DIY soldering.''' 
'''4. Was designed and LOAD TESTED to support up to 20 amps of DC power at a maximum of 28 Volts.'''
 
'''5. Input & output power can be soldered directly to the board or mounted via Screw down lugs(input) and 5mm terminal blocks(outputs).'''
 
'''6. Each Main power output is individually fused with a status LED indicating the state of power and the fuse.''' 
'''7. The four accessory outlets share one Fuse.''' 
'''8. The board measures 100x50mm''' 
'''9. Has 4 mounting holes.''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper(top & bottom) and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering.

== A LOAD TESTED Design ==

Full load testing was done with this distribution board to ensure that it could perform within the specified guidelines. 

Testing was done with genuine Mean Well power supplies in 5v, 12v, 24v and 36v, LRS-350 series. 
Load testing was done with TTi LD300 DC Electronic load equipment at 1a, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 10a, 15a and 20a. 
The pdf link below documents the testing that was done using 12awg stranded copper wire for input and 14awg stranded copper wire for output. 

[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38064&d=1510023884 Load Testing Report]

== Order some boards ==

You can order your own boards from Holiday Lighting. They are stock bare PCBs, Full DIY kits, and assembled units. 
You can find them at: http://holiday.lighting

== Fuses ==

[[Image:5_amp_fuse.jpg|right|small]]

The board has four independently fused power outputs. 
The board is designed to use mini automobile style fuses. 
Each main output fuse can be any value up to 5 Amps. 
It is recommended that the accessory fuse be set to no more than 1 amp.

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Power Pops Fanout board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The Power Pops Fanout board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these parts:

- Two screw down power lugs for power input. The board was designed to use part B12-PCB-S from LugsDirect.com. Link: https://lugsdirect.com/B12-PCB.htm 
- Four 5.08mm terminal blocks for power output. These are often referred to as 5mm terminal blocks too. 
- Five 1/4W resistors. The value of the resistors depends on the input voltage and LED used. However, a value of 1.2K will work for most LEDs. 
- Five indicator 3mm LEDs. Any color can be used. The Forward Voltage and current draw of the LED factor into the resistor value combination. 
- Four Fuses, mini Automobile style, any combination with any value up to 5 Amps maximum, for the main power outputs. 
- One Fuse, mini Automobile style, with a value up to 1 Amps maximum, for the accessory power outputs. 
- Five Fuse Holders, specifically Keystone parts: 3544-2 or 3634-2. Please note that 3634-2 has a mechanism to hold the fuse especially tight. Some folks may find this annoying; therefore, 3544-2 is recommended. 
- One SPDT mini switch. eg. digikey part: 450-1609-ND or Sparkfun part: COM-09609 If you look around, you can often find these at other suppliers for much less than digikey or sparkfun. The leads on this switch are spaced at .1" apart or 2.54mm which is the same as your typical pin header strip. 
- Four, two pin, pin headers, 2.54mm lead spacing. You can also use a terminal block with 2.54mm lead spacing.

== Construction Information ==

One specific oddity that may not be obvious is that the fuse holder board pins are not spaced evenly from side to side. Therefore, there is only one correct orientation as shown by the fuse outline on the board. 

The LEDs have a horizontal line above one of the mounting holes. This is the LED cathode (usually indicated by a flat spot on the side of the LED) 

The resistors can go on in any fashion as they are not polarity sensitive. 

As noted on the board, the input wires should be 12, 14 or 16 AWG. If using 16 AWG or if using stranded twisted wires, the lug manufacturer recommends the use of wire ferrules. 

The only tricky part of assembling the board is the input power lugs as these have a very large surface area to cover. Just take your time and have plenty of solder ready to use. You should put solder on both the top and bottom of the board. Be sure to fill the mounting holes completely. NOTE: be sure the screws are tight before soldering to ensure the lug body is tight against the PCB as you solder. 

It is suggested you solder the lugs on first, followed by the fuse holders, output terminal blocks, pin headers, resistors, the switch, and finally the LEDs.

== Board Layout Diagrams ==

The pdf linked below shows the hole layout dimensions. 
The outer dimenstion of the board is exactly 100mm x 50mm. 
[[Media:Power_board_hole_layout.pdf]]
 

The pdf linked below can be opened and printed for a drilling template.
Be sure to print it without any scaling. i.e. print at 1:1 by turning OFF the FIT TO PAGE or SCALE option which by default is turned on.

[[Media:Power_board_layout.pdf]]

== End User Pictures ==

Here is '''Kev7274''' testing out the placement of voltmeters on one of his boards: (the alligator clips are just for testing)
[[File:Kev7274.jpg]]
 
'''pmiller''' mounted a voltmeter with through hole screws.
He could do this because the top half of the board is the positive power plane, both top and bottom. As long as you don't get into the traces for the low amperage connectors, this will work...and Bob's your Uncle!
[[File:Purgemex.jpg]]

Power Pops Fanout - 1 Input with 4 Outputs

2020-11-06T22:56:29Z

Ukewarrior: /* The Pops Power Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter. */

==The Pops Power Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter That has been LOAD Tested with Scientific Equipment.==

This board is designed to take one input DC power feed and split it into 4 Main outputs & 4 accessory (low amperage) outlets. 
The current version is v2.1.
 
 
Each Main output on the board has its own mini-automobile style fuse that is rated up to 5 amps. 
The four accessory outlets share one mini-automobile style fuse. 
Each fuse has a LED status indicator to show if power is flowing through that fuse; therefore showing that power is present and that the fuse is good.
 
 
There is a switch on the board that activates the function of all the status LEDs thereby allowing the user to turn off the LEDs unless needed. This switch does NOT turn off the power feed. It has no affect on the flow of power except to the LED indicators.
 
[[File:Pictureof v2-1.jpg]]
 



== Finished Board ==
[[Image:Purgeme2.jpg]]



== General Features ==

'''The Power Pops Fanout board has these main features''' 
'''1. Supports the splitting of up to 20 amps of DC power into 4 individual power outlets of up to 5 amps each.''' 
'''2. Has four accessory outlets to power low amperage devices like a voltmeter or a fan.''' 
'''3. Is a DIY board using all through hole components for easy DIY soldering.''' 
'''4. Was designed and LOAD TESTED to support up to 20 amps of DC power at a maximum of 28 Volts.'''
 
'''5. Input & output power can be soldered directly to the board or mounted via Screw down lugs(input) and 5mm terminal blocks(outputs).'''
 
'''6. Each Main power output is individually fused with a status LED indicating the state of power and the fuse.''' 
'''7. The four accessory outlets share one Fuse.''' 
'''8. The board measures 100x50mm''' 
'''9. Has 4 mounting holes.''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper(top & bottom) and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering.

== A LOAD TESTED Design ==

Full load testing was done with this distribution board to ensure that it could perform within the specified guidelines. 

Testing was done with genuine Mean Well power supplies in 5v, 12v, 24v and 36v, LRS-350 series. 
Load testing was done with TTi LD300 DC Electronic load equipment at 1a, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 10a, 15a and 20a. 
The pdf link below documents the testing that was done using 12awg stranded copper wire for input and 14awg stranded copper wire for output. 

[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38064&d=1510023884 Load Testing Report]

== Order some boards ==

You can order your own boards from Holiday Lighting. They are stock bare PCBs, Full DIY kits, and assembled units. 
You can find them at: http://holiday.lighting

== Fuses ==

[[Image:5_amp_fuse.jpg|right|small]]

The board has four independently fused power outputs. 
The board is designed to use mini automobile style fuses. 
Each main output fuse can be any value up to 5 Amps. 
It is recommended that the accessory fuse be set to no more than 1 amp.

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Power Pops Fanout board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The Power Pops Fanout board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these parts:

- Two screw down power lugs for power input. The board was designed to use part B12-PCB-S from LugsDirect.com. Link: https://lugsdirect.com/B12-PCB.htm 
- Four 5.08mm terminal blocks for power output. These are often referred to as 5mm terminal blocks too. 
- Five 1/4W resistors. The value of the resistors depends on the input voltage and LED used. However, a value of 1.2K will work for most LEDs. 
- Five indicator 3mm LEDs. Any color can be used. The Forward Voltage and current draw of the LED factor into the resistor value combination. 
- Four Fuses, mini Automobile style, any combination with any value up to 5 Amps maximum, for the main power outputs. 
- One Fuse, mini Automobile style, with a value up to 1 Amps maximum, for the accessory power outputs. 
- Five Fuse Holders, specifically Keystone parts: 3544-2 or 3634-2. Please note that 3634-2 has a mechanism to hold the fuse especially tight. Some folks may find this annoying; therefore, 3544-2 is recommended. 
- One SPDT mini switch. eg. digikey part: 450-1609-ND or Sparkfun part: COM-09609 If you look around, you can often find these at other suppliers for much less than digikey or sparkfun. The leads on this switch are spaced at .1" apart or 2.54mm which is the same as your typical pin header strip. 
- Four, two pin, pin headers, 2.54mm lead spacing. You can also use a terminal block with 2.54mm lead spacing.

== Construction Information ==

One specific oddity that may not be obvious is that the fuse holder board pins are not spaced evenly from side to side. Therefore, there is only one correct orientation as shown by the fuse outline on the board.

As noted on the board, the input wires should be 12, 14 or 16 AWG. If using 16 AWG or if using stranded twisted wires, the lug manufacturer recommends the use of wire ferrules. 

The only tricky part of assembling the board is the input power lugs as these have a very large surface area to cover. Just take your time and have plenty of solder ready to use. You should put solder on both the top and bottom of the board. Be sure to fill the mounting holes completely. NOTE: be sure the screws are tight before soldering to ensure the lug body is tight against the PCB as you solder. 

It is suggested you solder the lugs on first, followed by the fuse holders, output terminal blocks, pin headers, resistors, the switch, and finally the LEDs.

== Board Layout Diagrams ==

The pdf linked below shows the hole layout dimensions. 
The outer dimenstion of the board is exactly 100mm x 50mm. 
[[Media:Power_board_hole_layout.pdf]]
 

The pdf linked below can be opened and printed for a drilling template.
Be sure to print it without any scaling. i.e. print at 1:1 by turning OFF the FIT TO PAGE or SCALE option which by default is turned on.

[[Media:Power_board_layout.pdf]]

== End User Pictures ==

Here is '''Kev7274''' testing out the placement of voltmeters on one of his boards: (the alligator clips are just for testing)
[[File:Kev7274.jpg]]
 
'''pmiller''' mounted a voltmeter with through hole screws.
He could do this because the top half of the board is the positive power plane, both top and bottom. As long as you don't get into the traces for the low amperage connectors, this will work...and Bob's your Uncle!
[[File:Purgemex.jpg]]

Power Pops Fanout - 1 Input with 4 Outputs

2020-11-06T22:55:33Z

Ukewarrior: /* The Power Pops Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter. */

==The Pops Power Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter.==

This board is designed to take one input DC power feed and split it into 4 Main outputs & 4 accessory (low amperage) outlets. 
The current version is v2.1.
 
 
Each Main output on the board has its own mini-automobile style fuse that is rated up to 5 amps. 
The four accessory outlets share one mini-automobile style fuse. 
Each fuse has a LED status indicator to show if power is flowing through that fuse; therefore showing that power is present and that the fuse is good.
 
 
There is a switch on the board that activates the function of all the status LEDs thereby allowing the user to turn off the LEDs unless needed. This switch does NOT turn off the power feed. It has no affect on the flow of power except to the LED indicators.
 
[[File:Pictureof v2-1.jpg]]
 



== Finished Board ==
[[Image:Purgeme2.jpg]]



== General Features ==

'''The Power Pops Fanout board has these main features''' 
'''1. Supports the splitting of up to 20 amps of DC power into 4 individual power outlets of up to 5 amps each.''' 
'''2. Has four accessory outlets to power low amperage devices like a voltmeter or a fan.''' 
'''3. Is a DIY board using all through hole components for easy DIY soldering.''' 
'''4. Was designed and LOAD TESTED to support up to 20 amps of DC power at a maximum of 28 Volts.'''
 
'''5. Input & output power can be soldered directly to the board or mounted via Screw down lugs(input) and 5mm terminal blocks(outputs).'''
 
'''6. Each Main power output is individually fused with a status LED indicating the state of power and the fuse.''' 
'''7. The four accessory outlets share one Fuse.''' 
'''8. The board measures 100x50mm''' 
'''9. Has 4 mounting holes.''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper(top & bottom) and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering.

== A LOAD TESTED Design ==

Full load testing was done with this distribution board to ensure that it could perform within the specified guidelines. 

Testing was done with genuine Mean Well power supplies in 5v, 12v, 24v and 36v, LRS-350 series. 
Load testing was done with TTi LD300 DC Electronic load equipment at 1a, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 10a, 15a and 20a. 
The pdf link below documents the testing that was done using 12awg stranded copper wire for input and 14awg stranded copper wire for output. 

[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38064&d=1510023884 Load Testing Report]

== Order some boards ==

You can order your own boards from Holiday Lighting. They are stock bare PCBs, Full DIY kits, and assembled units. 
You can find them at: http://holiday.lighting

== Fuses ==

[[Image:5_amp_fuse.jpg|right|small]]

The board has four independently fused power outputs. 
The board is designed to use mini automobile style fuses. 
Each main output fuse can be any value up to 5 Amps. 
It is recommended that the accessory fuse be set to no more than 1 amp.

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Power Pops Fanout board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The Power Pops Fanout board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these parts:

- Two screw down power lugs for power input. The board was designed to use part B12-PCB-S from LugsDirect.com. Link: https://lugsdirect.com/B12-PCB.htm 
- Four 5.08mm terminal blocks for power output. These are often referred to as 5mm terminal blocks too. 
- Five 1/4W resistors. The value of the resistors depends on the input voltage and LED used. However, a value of 1.2K will work for most LEDs. 
- Five indicator 3mm LEDs. Any color can be used. The Forward Voltage and current draw of the LED factor into the resistor value combination. 
- Four Fuses, mini Automobile style, any combination with any value up to 5 Amps maximum, for the main power outputs. 
- One Fuse, mini Automobile style, with a value up to 1 Amps maximum, for the accessory power outputs. 
- Five Fuse Holders, specifically Keystone parts: 3544-2 or 3634-2. Please note that 3634-2 has a mechanism to hold the fuse especially tight. Some folks may find this annoying; therefore, 3544-2 is recommended. 
- One SPDT mini switch. eg. digikey part: 450-1609-ND or Sparkfun part: COM-09609 If you look around, you can often find these at other suppliers for much less than digikey or sparkfun. The leads on this switch are spaced at .1" apart or 2.54mm which is the same as your typical pin header strip. 
- Four, two pin, pin headers, 2.54mm lead spacing. You can also use a terminal block with 2.54mm lead spacing.

== Construction Information ==

One specific oddity that may not be obvious is that the fuse holder board pins are not spaced evenly from side to side. Therefore, there is only one correct orientation as shown by the fuse outline on the board.

As noted on the board, the input wires should be 12, 14 or 16 AWG. If using 16 AWG or if using stranded twisted wires, the lug manufacturer recommends the use of wire ferrules. 

The only tricky part of assembling the board is the input power lugs as these have a very large surface area to cover. Just take your time and have plenty of solder ready to use. You should put solder on both the top and bottom of the board. Be sure to fill the mounting holes completely. NOTE: be sure the screws are tight before soldering to ensure the lug body is tight against the PCB as you solder. 

It is suggested you solder the lugs on first, followed by the fuse holders, output terminal blocks, pin headers, resistors, the switch, and finally the LEDs.

== Board Layout Diagrams ==

The pdf linked below shows the hole layout dimensions. 
The outer dimenstion of the board is exactly 100mm x 50mm. 
[[Media:Power_board_hole_layout.pdf]]
 

The pdf linked below can be opened and printed for a drilling template.
Be sure to print it without any scaling. i.e. print at 1:1 by turning OFF the FIT TO PAGE or SCALE option which by default is turned on.

[[Media:Power_board_layout.pdf]]

== End User Pictures ==

Here is '''Kev7274''' testing out the placement of voltmeters on one of his boards: (the alligator clips are just for testing)
[[File:Kev7274.jpg]]
 
'''pmiller''' mounted a voltmeter with through hole screws.
He could do this because the top half of the board is the positive power plane, both top and bottom. As long as you don't get into the traces for the low amperage connectors, this will work...and Bob's your Uncle!
[[File:Purgemex.jpg]]

Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer

2020-04-15T22:03:20Z

Ukewarrior: /* BOM - Bill of Materials */

[[Image:Popsomatic.jpg||Version V2]]

==What is the Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer ?==

The Pops-O-Matic is a dedicated programming board for the popular ESP-01 module.
 
This board was inspired from two articles on allaboutcircuits.com. Specifically: 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/build-9-linear-voltage-regulators-from-2.5v-to-15v-that-use-the-same-pcb/ Voltage Regulator] 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/flashing-the-ESP-01-firmware-to-SDK-v2.0.0-is-easier-now/ ESP Flashing Circuit] 
This programming board supplies both the regulated power and the programming interface for the ESP-01 module. 
'''''It specifically isolates the ESP-01 from any of the positive power that may be supplied by your serial-to-TTL programmer.''''' 
Only Ground, Transmit, and Receive are connected from the external serial-to-TTL programmer to the Pops-O-Matic. (with the assumption you hook it up properly) 
The purpose of this is twofold. 
1. To protect the ESP-01 module from voltages over 3.3V. (Many TTL programmers are normally run at 5V) 
2. To provide the ESP-01 with well regulated and steady power during the programming sequence. 

==Pops-O-Matic Overview==

The Pop-O-Matic is designed to be flexible in assembly and use. 
It can take a wide variation of power input voltages (5V-16V) and can support up to 5 different power connections. 
The board is designed to use any of the following for a power input connection types: 
1. 5mm Terminal Block 
2. 3.5mm Terminal Block 
3. Micro USB 
4. Mini USB 
5. Barrel Terminal Jack 
The board has a power ON/OFF switch with a power ON LED indicator. 
NOTE: 
Input power should be at least 400ma.

== Order a board ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Pops-O-Matic board at Your Own Risk !''' 
'''The Pops-O-Matic board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''

== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts. The '''SKU at TAYDA electronics''' (www.taydaelectronics.com) is listed as a reference example following the silkscreen part identifier. 
A typical total for these parts is about $3-$4 not including the ESP-01 module and the TTL converter. 
Parts U1 & ESP-01 are not sold by TAYDA.

- '''Input Connectors A-662''' - As noted earlier, you have choices for the power input connector. You can populate the board with all the connectors at the same time. The exception to this is that the 3.5mm and 5mm terminal blocks share the same space on the board. 
Of course, you can populate it with any combination that suits your fancy, including none at all. 
The possible input connectors are: SMD micro USB, through hole mini USB, Terminal Barrel, 3.5mm & 5mm Terminal block. 
- '''S3 A-2001''' - Power Switch. SPDT ON-OFF-ON This part is optional. You can short the middle and left holes together to set the board to permanently ON. This SPDT switch has 5mm pin spacing. Most any style will do, both slide and toggle for example. 
- '''D1 A-484''' - Diode, specifically 1N5819 
- '''C1 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C2 A-4506''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 10V, 220uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''C3 A-319''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.33uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C4 A-4552''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 1000uF, 5mm lead spacing, 13mm max diameter. 
- '''C5 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C6 A-4534''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 10uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''POWER A-1554''' - LED, 5mm, any color. 
- '''R1 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R2 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R3 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R4 A-2282''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 560 ohm.Note: this resistor is paired with the POWER LED. You should use one of the online calculators to determine the most optimal value given a 3.3V input power to your LED. 
- '''100R''' - There is a resistor labeled 100R to the right of the power switch. It is not needed. 
- '''U1''' - Voltage Regulator, 3.3V, specifically LM2937ET-3.3, TO-220 package. 
- '''S1 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''S2 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''ESP01 A-1682''' - 2x4 femaie pin header. 2.54mm spacing. 
- '''ESP01''' - ESP-01 module. This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic. It is the board the Pops-O-Matic will help you program. 
- '''USB to TTL A-1384''' - A 6 pin header. Either vertical or 90 degree mounting. Male or Female to match the pins on your USB-to-TTL Converter. 
- '''USB to TTL converter A-1991''' - This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic board, but you will need one if you don't already have one. The two most popular models are known as the FT232RL and CP2102. The FT232RL by FTDI was the defacto-standard until they released a code version that would brick peoples PC's in an effort to combat Chinese clones. This angered a lot of the '''Maker''' community. The CP2102 then arose as a competitor to FTDI. Both of these programmers are available all over the internet, ebay and aliexpress. You can also order one off of TAYDA as noted. 

== Construction Information ==
This board is pretty simple. Just follow typical assembly practices. 
Solder from lowest to the board to tallest components last. 
Hopefully, you can find some of the parts in your electronics junk drawer stash. 
The only reason for five possible power inputs is to match up with whatever is easiest for you use from a power input source. 
For example, the usb connections exist to support your typical cell phone charger or any other USB power source. (which is always 5V). 
Or you may have an old power brick that has a round terminal barrel connector. 
The voltage values of the referenced capacitors can be changed. You can always use a higher voltage capacitor in place of the noted voltage. 
Additionally, you may be able to use a lower voltage than what is noted. 
i.e. C3 and C4 are on the power input side of the voltage regulator. If you know FOR SURE that you will never use a voltage over 5V for an input, then these capacitors can be any value above 7.5V and will be just fine. But, if you forget and apply 12V, the caps will let out their magic smoke. 
Likewise, capacitors C1, C5 and C6 are after the voltage regulator and will never see a voltage above 3.3V. Therefore, any voltage rating above 5V should be safe. 
All this to say is that you can often find a lot of the parts you need for a low voltage board like this in your stash or salvage from other boards. 

== Errata ==
[[Image:Popsomatic_back.jpg|right|small]]
The initial board run has one small error. 
'''This error has been fixed with the ver 1.1 board.''' (This version number is noted on the back of the board) 
There is an unwanted trace on the back of the board that connects the right most pin '''(as viewed from the TOP) '''of part C5 to the ground backplane that covers the bottom of the board. 
This unwanted trace should have been placed on the left most pin of C5. 
All boards sent out, have had this unwanted trace scraped off the board. 
So, the end user doesn't need to do anything to fix this error. 

Due to this error, the capacitor for C5 must be mounted using the middle and right most holes only. The left most hole is not connected to anything. 
'''This restriction has been removed with the ver1.1 board'''
 
This may cause a problem if your C5 capacitor has 5mm spaced leads. In this case, you would either bend the leads to fit the more narrow spacing, 
or you can insert the left most pin through the hole and then bend if over to connect to the middle hole. 
In other words, part C5 must have pins touching the middle and right holes. Again, all references are from the top view of the board.

== Pictures of built Pops-O-Matic boards ==

Tyson Howard's build:
[[File:Pixelpops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixelpops2.jpg]]

Pops original build:
[[File:purgeme3.jpg]]
[[File:purgeme1.jpg]]

Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer

2020-04-15T22:02:49Z

Ukewarrior: /* BOM - Bill of Materials */

[[Image:Popsomatic.jpg||Version V2]]

==What is the Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer ?==

The Pops-O-Matic is a dedicated programming board for the popular ESP-01 module.
 
This board was inspired from two articles on allaboutcircuits.com. Specifically: 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/build-9-linear-voltage-regulators-from-2.5v-to-15v-that-use-the-same-pcb/ Voltage Regulator] 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/flashing-the-ESP-01-firmware-to-SDK-v2.0.0-is-easier-now/ ESP Flashing Circuit] 
This programming board supplies both the regulated power and the programming interface for the ESP-01 module. 
'''''It specifically isolates the ESP-01 from any of the positive power that may be supplied by your serial-to-TTL programmer.''''' 
Only Ground, Transmit, and Receive are connected from the external serial-to-TTL programmer to the Pops-O-Matic. (with the assumption you hook it up properly) 
The purpose of this is twofold. 
1. To protect the ESP-01 module from voltages over 3.3V. (Many TTL programmers are normally run at 5V) 
2. To provide the ESP-01 with well regulated and steady power during the programming sequence. 

==Pops-O-Matic Overview==

The Pop-O-Matic is designed to be flexible in assembly and use. 
It can take a wide variation of power input voltages (5V-16V) and can support up to 5 different power connections. 
The board is designed to use any of the following for a power input connection types: 
1. 5mm Terminal Block 
2. 3.5mm Terminal Block 
3. Micro USB 
4. Mini USB 
5. Barrel Terminal Jack 
The board has a power ON/OFF switch with a power ON LED indicator. 
NOTE: 
Input power should be at least 400ma.

== Order a board ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Pops-O-Matic board at Your Own Risk !''' 
'''The Pops-O-Matic board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''

== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts. The '''SKU at TAYDA electronics''' (www.taydaelectronics.com) is listed as a reference example following the silkscreen part identifier. 
A typical total for these parts is about $3-$4 not including the ESP-01 module and the TTL converter. 
Parts U1 & ESP-01 are not sold by TAYDA.

- '''Input Connectors A-662''' - As noted earlier, you have choices for the power input connector. You can populate the board with all the connectors at the same time. The exception to this is that the 3.5mm and 5mm terminal blocks share the same space on the board. 
Of course, you can populate it with any combination that suits your fancy, including none at all. 
The possible input connectors are: SMD micro USB, through hole mini USB, Terminal Barrel, 3.5mm & 5mm Terminal block. 
- '''S3 A-2001''' - Power Switch. SPDT ON-OFF-ON This part is optional. You can short the middle and left holes together to set the board to permanently ON. This SPDT switch has 5mm pin spacing. Most any style will do, both slide and toggle for example. 
- '''D1 A-484''' - Diode, specifically 1N5819 
- '''C1 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C2 A-4506''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 10V, 220uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''C3 A-319''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.33uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C4 A-4552''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 1000uF, 5mm lead spacing, 13mm max diameter. 
- '''C5 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C6 A-4534''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 10uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''POWER A-1554''' - LED, 5mm, any color. 
- '''R1 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R2 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R3 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R4 A-2282''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 560 ohm.Note: this resistor is paired with the POWER LED. You should use o n of the online calculators to determine the most optimal value given a 3.3V input power to your LED. 
- '''100R''' - There is a resistor labeled 100R to the right of the power switch. It is not needed. 
- '''U1''' - Voltage Regulator, 3.3V, specifically LM2937ET-3.3, TO-220 package. 
- '''S1 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''S2 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''ESP01 A-1682''' - 2x4 femaie pin header. 2.54mm spacing. 
- '''ESP01''' - ESP-01 module. This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic. It is the board the Pops-O-Matic will help you program. 
- '''USB to TTL A-1384''' - A 6 pin header. Either vertical or 90 degree mounting. Male or Female to match the pins on your USB-to-TTL Converter. 
- '''USB to TTL converter A-1991''' - This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic board, but you will need one if you don't already have one. The two most popular models are known as the FT232RL and CP2102. The FT232RL by FTDI was the defacto-standard until they released a code version that would brick peoples PC's in an effort to combat Chinese clones. This angered a lot of the '''Maker''' community. The CP2102 then arose as a competitor to FTDI. Both of these programmers are available all over the internet, ebay and aliexpress. You can also order one off of TAYDA as noted. 

== Construction Information ==
This board is pretty simple. Just follow typical assembly practices. 
Solder from lowest to the board to tallest components last. 
Hopefully, you can find some of the parts in your electronics junk drawer stash. 
The only reason for five possible power inputs is to match up with whatever is easiest for you use from a power input source. 
For example, the usb connections exist to support your typical cell phone charger or any other USB power source. (which is always 5V). 
Or you may have an old power brick that has a round terminal barrel connector. 
The voltage values of the referenced capacitors can be changed. You can always use a higher voltage capacitor in place of the noted voltage. 
Additionally, you may be able to use a lower voltage than what is noted. 
i.e. C3 and C4 are on the power input side of the voltage regulator. If you know FOR SURE that you will never use a voltage over 5V for an input, then these capacitors can be any value above 7.5V and will be just fine. But, if you forget and apply 12V, the caps will let out their magic smoke. 
Likewise, capacitors C1, C5 and C6 are after the voltage regulator and will never see a voltage above 3.3V. Therefore, any voltage rating above 5V should be safe. 
All this to say is that you can often find a lot of the parts you need for a low voltage board like this in your stash or salvage from other boards. 

== Errata ==
[[Image:Popsomatic_back.jpg|right|small]]
The initial board run has one small error. 
'''This error has been fixed with the ver 1.1 board.''' (This version number is noted on the back of the board) 
There is an unwanted trace on the back of the board that connects the right most pin '''(as viewed from the TOP) '''of part C5 to the ground backplane that covers the bottom of the board. 
This unwanted trace should have been placed on the left most pin of C5. 
All boards sent out, have had this unwanted trace scraped off the board. 
So, the end user doesn't need to do anything to fix this error. 

Due to this error, the capacitor for C5 must be mounted using the middle and right most holes only. The left most hole is not connected to anything. 
'''This restriction has been removed with the ver1.1 board'''
 
This may cause a problem if your C5 capacitor has 5mm spaced leads. In this case, you would either bend the leads to fit the more narrow spacing, 
or you can insert the left most pin through the hole and then bend if over to connect to the middle hole. 
In other words, part C5 must have pins touching the middle and right holes. Again, all references are from the top view of the board.

== Pictures of built Pops-O-Matic boards ==

Tyson Howard's build:
[[File:Pixelpops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixelpops2.jpg]]

Pops original build:
[[File:purgeme3.jpg]]
[[File:purgeme1.jpg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-03-22T19:32:19Z

Ukewarrior: /* BOM - Bill of Materials */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

'''IF''' ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Build Guides ==

An extensive build guide for the Pixel Pop Controller and a supplemental guide on how to run DMX based devices from the Pixel Pops has been created by user packebob.
 
These can be found on his blog: 
[http://zappedmyself.com/projects/espixelpops/ ESPixel Pops Build Guide and DMX enhancement]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller ==
'''A small Item that you can mount in a cable guard box or other waterproof enclosure''' 
User '''amps''' on DIYC created an standoff/mount that can be 3D printed. 
The .stl file is available for free on thingiverse at this link: 
[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4028794 Thingiverse link for Pixel Pops mount] 
[[File:Thingaverse.JPG]]

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]
 
'''William Napier crated these in a few hours as a novice solderer. All worked fine on the first try !''' 
[[File:Napier pixel pops.jpeg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-03-22T19:23:45Z

Ukewarrior: /* BOM - Bill of Materials */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

'''IF''' ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller ==
'''A small Item that you can mount in a cable guard box or other waterproof enclosure''' 
User '''amps''' on DIYC created an standoff/mount that can be 3D printed. 
The .stl file is available for free on thingiverse at this link: 
[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4028794 Thingiverse link for Pixel Pops mount] 
[[File:Thingaverse.JPG]]

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]
 
'''William Napier crated these in a few hours as a novice solderer. All worked fine on the first try !''' 
[[File:Napier pixel pops.jpeg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-03-05T21:39:10Z

Ukewarrior: /* Order your own boards */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

'''IF''' ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller ==
'''A small Item that you can mount in a cable guard box or other waterproof enclosure''' 
User '''amps''' on DIYC created an standoff/mount that can be 3D printed. 
The .stl file is available for free on thingiverse at this link: 
[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4028794 Thingiverse link for Pixel Pops mount] 
[[File:Thingaverse.JPG]]

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]
 
'''William Napier crated these in a few hours as a novice solderer. All worked fine on the first try !''' 
[[File:Napier pixel pops.jpeg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-03-05T21:38:56Z

Ukewarrior: /* Order your own boards */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

'''If''' ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller ==
'''A small Item that you can mount in a cable guard box or other waterproof enclosure''' 
User '''amps''' on DIYC created an standoff/mount that can be 3D printed. 
The .stl file is available for free on thingiverse at this link: 
[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4028794 Thingiverse link for Pixel Pops mount] 
[[File:Thingaverse.JPG]]

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]
 
'''William Napier crated these in a few hours as a novice solderer. All worked fine on the first try !''' 
[[File:Napier pixel pops.jpeg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-03-05T21:37:41Z

Ukewarrior: /* The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller ==
'''A small Item that you can mount in a cable guard box or other waterproof enclosure''' 
User '''amps''' on DIYC created an standoff/mount that can be 3D printed. 
The .stl file is available for free on thingiverse at this link: 
[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4028794 Thingiverse link for Pixel Pops mount] 
[[File:Thingaverse.JPG]]

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]
 
'''William Napier crated these in a few hours as a novice solderer. All worked fine on the first try !''' 
[[File:Napier pixel pops.jpeg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-03-05T21:08:03Z

Ukewarrior: /* A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller ==
'''A small Item that you can mount in a cable guard box or other waterproof enclosure''' 
User '''amps''' on DIYC created an standoff/mount that can be 3D printed. 
The .stl file is available for free on thingiverse at this link: 
[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4028794 Thingiverse link for Pixel Pops mount] 
[[File:Thingaverse.JPG]]

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]
 
'''William Napier crated these in a few hours as a novice solderer. All worked fine on the first try !''' 
[[File:Napier pixel pops.jpeg]]

File:Thingaverse.JPG

2020-03-05T21:07:43Z

Ukewarrior:

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-03-05T21:06:42Z

Ukewarrior: /* A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller ==
'''A small Item that you can mount in a cable guard box or other waterproof enclosure''' 
User '''amps''' on DIYC created an standoff/mount that can be 3D printed. 
The .stl file is available for free on thingiverse at this link: 
[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4028794 Thingiverse link for Pixel Pops mount] 
[[File:Example.jpg]]

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]
 
'''William Napier crated these in a few hours as a novice solderer. All worked fine on the first try !''' 
[[File:Napier pixel pops.jpeg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-03-05T21:06:20Z

Ukewarrior: /* A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller ==
'''A small Item that you can mount in a cable guard box or other waterproof enclosure''' 
User '''amps''' on DIYC created an standoff/mount that can be 3D printed. 
The .stl file is available for free on thingiverse at this link: 
[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4028794 Thingiverse link for Pixel Pops mount]
[[File:Example.jpg]]

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]
 
'''William Napier crated these in a few hours as a novice solderer. All worked fine on the first try !''' 
[[File:Napier pixel pops.jpeg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-03-05T21:03:11Z

Ukewarrior: /* A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller ==
'''A small Item that you can mount in a cable guard box or other waterproof enclosure''' 
User '''amps''' on DIYC created an standoff/mount that can be 3D printed. 
The .stl file is available for free on thingaverse at this link: 
[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4028794 Thingaverse link for Pixel Pops mount]

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]
 
'''William Napier crated these in a few hours as a novice solderer. All worked fine on the first try !''' 
[[File:Napier pixel pops.jpeg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-03-05T21:02:41Z

Ukewarrior: /* A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller ==
'''A small Mount that you can mount in a cable guard box or other waterproof enclosure''' 
User '''amps''' on DIYC created an standoff/mount that can be 3D printed. 
The .stl file is available for free on thingaverse at this link: 
[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4028794 Thingaverse link for Pixel Pops mount]

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]
 
'''William Napier crated these in a few hours as a novice solderer. All worked fine on the first try !''' 
[[File:Napier pixel pops.jpeg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-03-05T21:02:05Z

Ukewarrior: /* A 3D printed Enclosure for your Pixel Pops controller */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== A 3D printed Mount for your Pixel Pops controller ==
'''A small Mount that you can mount in a cable guard box or other waterproof enclosure''' 
User '''amps''' on DIYC created an standoff/mount that can be 3D printed. 
The .stl file is available for free on thingaverse at this link: 
[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4028794]

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]
 
'''William Napier crated these in a few hours as a novice solderer. All worked fine on the first try !''' 
[[File:Napier pixel pops.jpeg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-03-05T20:56:33Z

Ukewarrior: /* Wiring The ESPixel Pops */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== A 3D printed Enclosure for your Pixel Pops controller ==

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]
 
'''William Napier crated these in a few hours as a novice solderer. All worked fine on the first try !''' 
[[File:Napier pixel pops.jpeg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-02-06T14:09:17Z

Ukewarrior: /* Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]
 
'''William Napier crated these in a few hours as a novice solderer. All worked fine on the first try !''' 
[[File:Napier pixel pops.jpeg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-02-06T14:08:04Z

Ukewarrior: /* Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]
 
'''William Napier crated these in a few hours as a novice solderer. All worked fine on the first try !''' 
[[File:Napier_pixel_pops.jpg]]

File:Napier pixel pops.jpeg

2020-02-06T14:05:36Z

Ukewarrior: pixel pops

pixel pops

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-01-14T14:57:06Z

Ukewarrior: /* Pixel Pops & Tiny */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Pixel Pops Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-01-14T14:55:00Z

Ukewarrior: /* Programming the ESP-01 Module */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''As of 1/14/2020 Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-01-14T14:54:30Z

Ukewarrior: /* Programming the ESP-01 Module */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''Version 3.1 is a Major Update''' Many features including direct support of Webmos & NodeMCU ESP modules.
You can find it here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-01-09T19:37:34Z

Ukewarrior: /* Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Pixel_pops2.jpg]]

File:Pixel pops2.jpg

2020-01-09T19:37:11Z

Ukewarrior:

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2020-01-09T19:35:48Z

Ukewarrior: /* Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]
'''David McCauley''' built and created a full pixel display in 2 weeks using pixel pops controllers driven by Falcon Pi Player (FPP))
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]

Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer

2019-12-14T19:59:43Z

Ukewarrior: /* Errata */

[[Image:Popsomatic.jpg||Version V2]]

==What is the Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer ?==

The Pops-O-Matic is a dedicated programming board for the popular ESP-01 module.
 
This board was inspired from two articles on allaboutcircuits.com. Specifically: 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/build-9-linear-voltage-regulators-from-2.5v-to-15v-that-use-the-same-pcb/ Voltage Regulator] 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/flashing-the-ESP-01-firmware-to-SDK-v2.0.0-is-easier-now/ ESP Flashing Circuit] 
This programming board supplies both the regulated power and the programming interface for the ESP-01 module. 
'''''It specifically isolates the ESP-01 from any of the positive power that may be supplied by your serial-to-TTL programmer.''''' 
Only Ground, Transmit, and Receive are connected from the external serial-to-TTL programmer to the Pops-O-Matic. (with the assumption you hook it up properly) 
The purpose of this is twofold. 
1. To protect the ESP-01 module from voltages over 3.3V. (Many TTL programmers are normally run at 5V) 
2. To provide the ESP-01 with well regulated and steady power during the programming sequence. 

==Pops-O-Matic Overview==

The Pop-O-Matic is designed to be flexible in assembly and use. 
It can take a wide variation of power input voltages (5V-16V) and can support up to 5 different power connections. 
The board is designed to use any of the following for a power input connection types: 
1. 5mm Terminal Block 
2. 3.5mm Terminal Block 
3. Micro USB 
4. Mini USB 
5. Barrel Terminal Jack 
The board has a power ON/OFF switch with a power ON LED indicator. 
NOTE: 
Input power should be at least 400ma.

== Order a board ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Pops-O-Matic board at Your Own Risk !''' 
'''The Pops-O-Matic board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''

== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts. The '''SKU at TAYDA electronics''' (www.taydaelectronics.com) is listed as a reference example following the silkscreen part identifier. 
A typical total for these parts is about $3-$4 not including the ESP-01 module and the TTL converter. 
Parts U1 & ESP-01 are not sold by TAYDA.

- '''Input Connectors A-662''' - As noted earlier, you have choices for the power input connector. You can populate the board with all the connectors at the same time. The exception to this is that the 3.5mm and 5mm terminal blocks share the same space on the board. 
Of course, you can populate it with any combination that suits your fancy, including none at all. 
The possible input connectors are: SMD micro USB, through hole mini USB, Terminal Barrel, 3.5mm & 5mm Terminal block. 
- '''S3 A-2001''' - Power Switch. SPDT ON-OFF-ON This part is optional. You can short the middle and left holes together to set the board to permanently ON. This SPDT switch has 5mm pin spacing. Most any style will do, both slide and toggle for example. 
- '''D1 A-484''' - Diode, specifically 1N5819 
- '''C1 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C2 A-4506''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 10V, 220uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''C3 A-319''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.33uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C4 A-4552''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 1000uF, 5mm lead spacing, 13mm max diameter. 
- '''C5 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C6 A-4534''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 10uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''POWER A-1554''' - LED, 5mm, any color. 
- '''R1 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R2 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R3 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R4 A-2282''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 560 ohm. 
- '''100R''' - There is a resistor labeled 100R to the right of the power switch. It is not needed. 
- '''U1''' - Voltage Regulator, 3.3V, specifically LM2937ET-3.3, TO-220 package. 
- '''S1 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''S2 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''ESP01 A-1682''' - 2x4 femaie pin header. 2.54mm spacing. 
- '''ESP01''' - ESP-01 module. This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic. It is the board the Pops-O-Matic will help you program. 
- '''USB to TTL A-1384''' - A 6 pin header. Either vertical or 90 degree mounting. Male or Female to match the pins on your USB-to-TTL Converter. 
- '''USB to TTL converter A-1991''' - This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic board, but you will need one if you don't already have one. The two most popular models are known as the FT232RL and CP2102. The FT232RL by FTDI was the defacto-standard until they released a code version that would brick peoples PC's in an effort to combat Chinese clones. This angered a lot of the '''Maker''' community. The CP2102 then arose as a competitor to FTDI. Both of these programmers are available all over the internet, ebay and aliexpress. You can also order one off of TAYDA as noted. 

== Construction Information ==
This board is pretty simple. Just follow typical assembly practices. 
Solder from lowest to the board to tallest components last. 
Hopefully, you can find some of the parts in your electronics junk drawer stash. 
The only reason for five possible power inputs is to match up with whatever is easiest for you use from a power input source. 
For example, the usb connections exist to support your typical cell phone charger or any other USB power source. (which is always 5V). 
Or you may have an old power brick that has a round terminal barrel connector. 
The voltage values of the referenced capacitors can be changed. You can always use a higher voltage capacitor in place of the noted voltage. 
Additionally, you may be able to use a lower voltage than what is noted. 
i.e. C3 and C4 are on the power input side of the voltage regulator. If you know FOR SURE that you will never use a voltage over 5V for an input, then these capacitors can be any value above 7.5V and will be just fine. But, if you forget and apply 12V, the caps will let out their magic smoke. 
Likewise, capacitors C1, C5 and C6 are after the voltage regulator and will never see a voltage above 3.3V. Therefore, any voltage rating above 5V should be safe. 
All this to say is that you can often find a lot of the parts you need for a low voltage board like this in your stash or salvage from other boards. 

== Errata ==
[[Image:Popsomatic_back.jpg|right|small]]
The initial board run has one small error. 
'''This error has been fixed with the ver 1.1 board.''' (This version number is noted on the back of the board) 
There is an unwanted trace on the back of the board that connects the right most pin '''(as viewed from the TOP) '''of part C5 to the ground backplane that covers the bottom of the board. 
This unwanted trace should have been placed on the left most pin of C5. 
All boards sent out, have had this unwanted trace scraped off the board. 
So, the end user doesn't need to do anything to fix this error. 

Due to this error, the capacitor for C5 must be mounted using the middle and right most holes only. The left most hole is not connected to anything. 
'''This restriction has been removed with the ver1.1 board'''
 
This may cause a problem if your C5 capacitor has 5mm spaced leads. In this case, you would either bend the leads to fit the more narrow spacing, 
or you can insert the left most pin through the hole and then bend if over to connect to the middle hole. 
In other words, part C5 must have pins touching the middle and right holes. Again, all references are from the top view of the board.

== Pictures of built Pops-O-Matic boards ==

Tyson Howard's build:
[[File:Pixelpops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixelpops2.jpg]]

Pops original build:
[[File:purgeme3.jpg]]
[[File:purgeme1.jpg]]

Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer

2019-12-14T19:58:10Z

Ukewarrior: /* Errata */

[[Image:Popsomatic.jpg||Version V2]]

==What is the Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer ?==

The Pops-O-Matic is a dedicated programming board for the popular ESP-01 module.
 
This board was inspired from two articles on allaboutcircuits.com. Specifically: 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/build-9-linear-voltage-regulators-from-2.5v-to-15v-that-use-the-same-pcb/ Voltage Regulator] 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/flashing-the-ESP-01-firmware-to-SDK-v2.0.0-is-easier-now/ ESP Flashing Circuit] 
This programming board supplies both the regulated power and the programming interface for the ESP-01 module. 
'''''It specifically isolates the ESP-01 from any of the positive power that may be supplied by your serial-to-TTL programmer.''''' 
Only Ground, Transmit, and Receive are connected from the external serial-to-TTL programmer to the Pops-O-Matic. (with the assumption you hook it up properly) 
The purpose of this is twofold. 
1. To protect the ESP-01 module from voltages over 3.3V. (Many TTL programmers are normally run at 5V) 
2. To provide the ESP-01 with well regulated and steady power during the programming sequence. 

==Pops-O-Matic Overview==

The Pop-O-Matic is designed to be flexible in assembly and use. 
It can take a wide variation of power input voltages (5V-16V) and can support up to 5 different power connections. 
The board is designed to use any of the following for a power input connection types: 
1. 5mm Terminal Block 
2. 3.5mm Terminal Block 
3. Micro USB 
4. Mini USB 
5. Barrel Terminal Jack 
The board has a power ON/OFF switch with a power ON LED indicator. 
NOTE: 
Input power should be at least 400ma.

== Order a board ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Pops-O-Matic board at Your Own Risk !''' 
'''The Pops-O-Matic board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''

== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts. The '''SKU at TAYDA electronics''' (www.taydaelectronics.com) is listed as a reference example following the silkscreen part identifier. 
A typical total for these parts is about $3-$4 not including the ESP-01 module and the TTL converter. 
Parts U1 & ESP-01 are not sold by TAYDA.

- '''Input Connectors A-662''' - As noted earlier, you have choices for the power input connector. You can populate the board with all the connectors at the same time. The exception to this is that the 3.5mm and 5mm terminal blocks share the same space on the board. 
Of course, you can populate it with any combination that suits your fancy, including none at all. 
The possible input connectors are: SMD micro USB, through hole mini USB, Terminal Barrel, 3.5mm & 5mm Terminal block. 
- '''S3 A-2001''' - Power Switch. SPDT ON-OFF-ON This part is optional. You can short the middle and left holes together to set the board to permanently ON. This SPDT switch has 5mm pin spacing. Most any style will do, both slide and toggle for example. 
- '''D1 A-484''' - Diode, specifically 1N5819 
- '''C1 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C2 A-4506''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 10V, 220uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''C3 A-319''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.33uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C4 A-4552''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 1000uF, 5mm lead spacing, 13mm max diameter. 
- '''C5 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C6 A-4534''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 10uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''POWER A-1554''' - LED, 5mm, any color. 
- '''R1 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R2 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R3 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R4 A-2282''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 560 ohm. 
- '''100R''' - There is a resistor labeled 100R to the right of the power switch. It is not needed. 
- '''U1''' - Voltage Regulator, 3.3V, specifically LM2937ET-3.3, TO-220 package. 
- '''S1 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''S2 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''ESP01 A-1682''' - 2x4 femaie pin header. 2.54mm spacing. 
- '''ESP01''' - ESP-01 module. This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic. It is the board the Pops-O-Matic will help you program. 
- '''USB to TTL A-1384''' - A 6 pin header. Either vertical or 90 degree mounting. Male or Female to match the pins on your USB-to-TTL Converter. 
- '''USB to TTL converter A-1991''' - This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic board, but you will need one if you don't already have one. The two most popular models are known as the FT232RL and CP2102. The FT232RL by FTDI was the defacto-standard until they released a code version that would brick peoples PC's in an effort to combat Chinese clones. This angered a lot of the '''Maker''' community. The CP2102 then arose as a competitor to FTDI. Both of these programmers are available all over the internet, ebay and aliexpress. You can also order one off of TAYDA as noted. 

== Construction Information ==
This board is pretty simple. Just follow typical assembly practices. 
Solder from lowest to the board to tallest components last. 
Hopefully, you can find some of the parts in your electronics junk drawer stash. 
The only reason for five possible power inputs is to match up with whatever is easiest for you use from a power input source. 
For example, the usb connections exist to support your typical cell phone charger or any other USB power source. (which is always 5V). 
Or you may have an old power brick that has a round terminal barrel connector. 
The voltage values of the referenced capacitors can be changed. You can always use a higher voltage capacitor in place of the noted voltage. 
Additionally, you may be able to use a lower voltage than what is noted. 
i.e. C3 and C4 are on the power input side of the voltage regulator. If you know FOR SURE that you will never use a voltage over 5V for an input, then these capacitors can be any value above 7.5V and will be just fine. But, if you forget and apply 12V, the caps will let out their magic smoke. 
Likewise, capacitors C1, C5 and C6 are after the voltage regulator and will never see a voltage above 3.3V. Therefore, any voltage rating above 5V should be safe. 
All this to say is that you can often find a lot of the parts you need for a low voltage board like this in your stash or salvage from other boards. 

== Errata ==
[[Image:Popsomatic_back.jpg|right|small]]
The initial board run has one small error. 
'''This error has been fixed with the ver 1.1 board.''' (This version number is noted on the back of the board) 
There is an unwanted trace on the back of the board that connects the right most pin '''(as viewed from the TOP) '''of part C5 to the ground backplane that covers the bottom of the board. 
This unwanted trace should have been placed on the left most pin of C5. 
All boards sent out, have had this unwanted trace scraped off the board. 
So, the end user doesn't need to do anything to fix this error. 

Due to this error, the capacitor for C5 must be mounted using the middle and right most holes only. The left most hole is not connected to anything.
 
This may cause a problem if your C5 capacitor has 5mm spaced leads. In this case, you would either bend the leads to fit the more narrow spacing, 
or you can insert the left most pin through the hole and then bend if over to connect to the middle hole. 
In other words, part C5 must have pins touching the middle and right holes. Again, all references are from the top view of the board.

== Pictures of built Pops-O-Matic boards ==

Tyson Howard's build:
[[File:Pixelpops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixelpops2.jpg]]

Pops original build:
[[File:purgeme3.jpg]]
[[File:purgeme1.jpg]]

Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer

2019-12-14T19:57:09Z

Ukewarrior: /* Errata */

[[Image:Popsomatic.jpg||Version V2]]

==What is the Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer ?==

The Pops-O-Matic is a dedicated programming board for the popular ESP-01 module.
 
This board was inspired from two articles on allaboutcircuits.com. Specifically: 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/build-9-linear-voltage-regulators-from-2.5v-to-15v-that-use-the-same-pcb/ Voltage Regulator] 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/flashing-the-ESP-01-firmware-to-SDK-v2.0.0-is-easier-now/ ESP Flashing Circuit] 
This programming board supplies both the regulated power and the programming interface for the ESP-01 module. 
'''''It specifically isolates the ESP-01 from any of the positive power that may be supplied by your serial-to-TTL programmer.''''' 
Only Ground, Transmit, and Receive are connected from the external serial-to-TTL programmer to the Pops-O-Matic. (with the assumption you hook it up properly) 
The purpose of this is twofold. 
1. To protect the ESP-01 module from voltages over 3.3V. (Many TTL programmers are normally run at 5V) 
2. To provide the ESP-01 with well regulated and steady power during the programming sequence. 

==Pops-O-Matic Overview==

The Pop-O-Matic is designed to be flexible in assembly and use. 
It can take a wide variation of power input voltages (5V-16V) and can support up to 5 different power connections. 
The board is designed to use any of the following for a power input connection types: 
1. 5mm Terminal Block 
2. 3.5mm Terminal Block 
3. Micro USB 
4. Mini USB 
5. Barrel Terminal Jack 
The board has a power ON/OFF switch with a power ON LED indicator. 
NOTE: 
Input power should be at least 400ma.

== Order a board ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Pops-O-Matic board at Your Own Risk !''' 
'''The Pops-O-Matic board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''

== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts. The '''SKU at TAYDA electronics''' (www.taydaelectronics.com) is listed as a reference example following the silkscreen part identifier. 
A typical total for these parts is about $3-$4 not including the ESP-01 module and the TTL converter. 
Parts U1 & ESP-01 are not sold by TAYDA.

- '''Input Connectors A-662''' - As noted earlier, you have choices for the power input connector. You can populate the board with all the connectors at the same time. The exception to this is that the 3.5mm and 5mm terminal blocks share the same space on the board. 
Of course, you can populate it with any combination that suits your fancy, including none at all. 
The possible input connectors are: SMD micro USB, through hole mini USB, Terminal Barrel, 3.5mm & 5mm Terminal block. 
- '''S3 A-2001''' - Power Switch. SPDT ON-OFF-ON This part is optional. You can short the middle and left holes together to set the board to permanently ON. This SPDT switch has 5mm pin spacing. Most any style will do, both slide and toggle for example. 
- '''D1 A-484''' - Diode, specifically 1N5819 
- '''C1 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C2 A-4506''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 10V, 220uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''C3 A-319''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.33uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C4 A-4552''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 1000uF, 5mm lead spacing, 13mm max diameter. 
- '''C5 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C6 A-4534''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 10uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''POWER A-1554''' - LED, 5mm, any color. 
- '''R1 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R2 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R3 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R4 A-2282''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 560 ohm. 
- '''100R''' - There is a resistor labeled 100R to the right of the power switch. It is not needed. 
- '''U1''' - Voltage Regulator, 3.3V, specifically LM2937ET-3.3, TO-220 package. 
- '''S1 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''S2 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''ESP01 A-1682''' - 2x4 femaie pin header. 2.54mm spacing. 
- '''ESP01''' - ESP-01 module. This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic. It is the board the Pops-O-Matic will help you program. 
- '''USB to TTL A-1384''' - A 6 pin header. Either vertical or 90 degree mounting. Male or Female to match the pins on your USB-to-TTL Converter. 
- '''USB to TTL converter A-1991''' - This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic board, but you will need one if you don't already have one. The two most popular models are known as the FT232RL and CP2102. The FT232RL by FTDI was the defacto-standard until they released a code version that would brick peoples PC's in an effort to combat Chinese clones. This angered a lot of the '''Maker''' community. The CP2102 then arose as a competitor to FTDI. Both of these programmers are available all over the internet, ebay and aliexpress. You can also order one off of TAYDA as noted. 

== Construction Information ==
This board is pretty simple. Just follow typical assembly practices. 
Solder from lowest to the board to tallest components last. 
Hopefully, you can find some of the parts in your electronics junk drawer stash. 
The only reason for five possible power inputs is to match up with whatever is easiest for you use from a power input source. 
For example, the usb connections exist to support your typical cell phone charger or any other USB power source. (which is always 5V). 
Or you may have an old power brick that has a round terminal barrel connector. 
The voltage values of the referenced capacitors can be changed. You can always use a higher voltage capacitor in place of the noted voltage. 
Additionally, you may be able to use a lower voltage than what is noted. 
i.e. C3 and C4 are on the power input side of the voltage regulator. If you know FOR SURE that you will never use a voltage over 5V for an input, then these capacitors can be any value above 7.5V and will be just fine. But, if you forget and apply 12V, the caps will let out their magic smoke. 
Likewise, capacitors C1, C5 and C6 are after the voltage regulator and will never see a voltage above 3.3V. Therefore, any voltage rating above 5V should be safe. 
All this to say is that you can often find a lot of the parts you need for a low voltage board like this in your stash or salvage from other boards. 

== Errata ==
[[Image:Popsomatic_back.jpg|right|small]]
The initial board run has one small error. 
This error has been fixed with the ver 1.1 board. (This version number is noted on the back of the board) 
There is an unwanted trace on the back of the board that connects the right most pin '''(as viewed from the TOP) '''of part C5 to the ground backplane that covers the bottom of the board. 
This unwanted trace should have been placed on the left most pin of C5. 
All boards sent out, have had this unwanted trace scraped off the board. 
So, the end user doesn't need to do anything to fix this error. 

Due to this error, the capacitor for C5 must be mounted using the middle and right most holes only. The left most hole is not connected to anything.
 
This may cause a problem if your C5 capacitor has 5mm spaced leads. In this case, you would either bend the leads to fit the more narrow spacing, 
or you can insert the left most pin through the hole and then bend if over to connect to the middle hole. 
In other words, part C5 must have pins touching the middle and right holes. Again, all references are from the top view of the board.

== Pictures of built Pops-O-Matic boards ==

Tyson Howard's build:
[[File:Pixelpops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixelpops2.jpg]]

Pops original build:
[[File:purgeme3.jpg]]
[[File:purgeme1.jpg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2019-11-21T22:13:13Z

Ukewarrior: /* Programming the ESP-01 Module */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c Pixel Stick Software] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2019-11-21T22:12:02Z

Ukewarrior: /* Programming the ESP-01 Module */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

As of 11/21/2019, the current release by Shelby that implements dimming control and other features. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases/tag/untagged-725bf24cd612dc3ce18c] 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2018-11-10T00:33:57Z

Ukewarrior: /* Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a 3d printed version of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680291 with the inner height changed to 23mm. He then used RTV around the cables coming out of the box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]

ESPixel Stick & ESPixel Pops

2018-11-09T23:10:09Z

Ukewarrior: /* Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards */

[[Image:Pops_tiny.jpg|right|Version V2]]
[[Image:Pops_board.jpg|right|Version V2]]

[[Image:Pixel_Pops_Tiny_Picture_2.jpg|right|Version V2]]

==What is a Pixel Stick?==
The ESPixel stick family of controllers are typically used as Christmas Lighting controllers.
These controllers have two basic characteristics: 
1. They control pixel based LED lights 
2. They are wireless in terms of their 'data' transfer

==The ESPixel Pops and ESPixel Pops Tiny are variations of the original ESPixel Stick by Shelby Merrick and more specifically a board designed by Bill Porter==


The original "ESPixelStick" is the open source firmware and hardware created by and as a successor to Shelby Merriicks nRF24L01 based PixelStick project. 
Bill Porter happened to be working on his Renard ESP and GECE controllers at the same time which also utilize the same ESP8266 ESP-01 module. 
Shelby, Bill and a few others have worked since then to broaden functionality and support of the firmware for these devices. 
As a result, there is one common firmware thread that works on all of the ESP-01 based DIYC pixel sticks as of 10/1/2017. 

You can read about this at Bills website found at: [http://www.billporter.info/ The mind of Bill Porter] 
You can read further at Shelby's website found at: [http://forkineye.com/ Shelby's Forkineye Website]
 
The boards discussed in this wiki are derivations of a design by Bill Porter. 
'''The full discussion thread regarding these boards is found at DIYC at this thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]'''
 
The ESPixel Pops is the most basic of the Pixel Stick designs. It is a fully through hole PCB with no smd(surface mount) components. Therefore, it is easily built by most anyone with basic soldering skills.
This variation was created by Pops Electronics (ukewarrior) in order to create a form factor that would fit inside a 1" thin wall PVC tube.
 
 

From a software perspective, it is an E1.31 sACN (Streaming ACN) pixel controller that connects over a standard (802.11g/n) WiFi network. The firmware is open source and developed in the ESP8266 Arduino environment. It provides a web based configuration front-end and currently supports WS2811 / WS2812 pixels. (3-wire pixels)
 



== Pixel Pops & Tiny ==
There are two Pixel Pops boards. 
The two boards are '''identical''' in terms of pixel lighting functionality and wiring. 
However, the ''TINY'' board is lacking the components to program the ESP-01 module while installed on the Pixel Pops board. 
Therefore, if you use the ''TINY'' board, you must have some other mechanism in order to program the ESP-01 module such as the Pops-O-Matic ESP-01 programmer. 
[http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer#Pops-O-Matic_Overview Pops-O-Matic Info]

== General Features ==
[[Image:Built_unit_with_quarter_for_scale.jpg|right|small]]


'''The Pixel Pops has these main features''' 
'''1. It supports 3 wire pixels such as those based on 2811, 2812 and GECE chipsets'''
'''2. Supports sACN DMX (E1.31) over 802.11b/g/n Networks'''
'''3. It utilizes the ESP-01 module for processing and wireless operation'''
 
'''4. Supports up to 680 WS2811 or WS2812 Pixels - 4 Universes of DMX data''' 
'''5. Supports up to 63 GECE Pixels''' 
'''6. It supports both 5v and 12v pixels'''
 
'''7. The board is small enough to fit inside a 1" thinwall PCB pipe with the PCB measuring only 24.18x33.32 mm and 24.18x24.61 mm for the tiny version. This type of pipe is listed as SDR-21. 
Click here for a Lowes example: [https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-in-x-10-ft-200-Sdr-21-PVC-Pipe/1000080801 Thin Wall 1" PCV pipe]''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering. 

All wires attach via terminal blocks. However, the use of terminal blocks is optional as the holes support direct soldering of wires.

'''The Schematic can be downloaded by clicking on this link:
[[Media:ESPixel_PopsSchematic.pdf]]

== Order your own boards ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

If ukewarrior is out of boards, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark:
[https://oshpark.com/profiles/PopsElectronics Click here for the Ordering link at OSHPark to order your own boards]

== Fuses ==

There is no onboard fuse for the ESPixel Pops.


You can add an inline fuse if desired with the '''input power feed'''.

This can be done very inexpensively with a fuse holder and fuse. 
These are available for a total of 34 cents from Tayda Electronics. 
Here are the links to those products as of late 2017: 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/in-line-fuse-holder-for-m205-5x20mm-fuses.html Fuse Holder] 
[http://www.taydaelectronics.com/fuse-glass-fast-acting-5a-5x20.html 5A Fuse] 
[[File:Purgeme.jpg]] [[Image:glass fuse.jpg|middle|Version V2]]

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the ESPixel Pops board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The ESPixel Pops board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts:

- One ESP8266-01, this is not so much a part, but a complete subassembly. 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- '''ESP-01''' - One female socket header, 2 rows of pins, 4 pins in each row. This functions as the socket where you plug the ESP8266 module into 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch. (distance between the pins) 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. Also readily available. These often have choices as to the height of the push button. 
- '''R1 & R2''' - Two 1/8W or 1/4W carbon film or metal film resistors. 330 Ohms. 
- '''C2''' - One polarized Electrolytic capacitor. Any value from 10uF to 220uF will do. 10V or above. Pay special attention to the diameter and spacing of the leads. The diameter can be no more than 5mm and the leads should be spaced at 2mm. 
- '''C1''' - One MLCC monolithic capacitor. 2.54mm lead spacing. 0.1uF, any voltage over 24V. (Usually these are 50V rated) These are typically the 'yellow blob' style capacitors, verses the ones that are shaped like a flat disk. These do NOT have a + & - indication, unlike the electrolitic capacitor noted above. 
- '''U1''' - One 3.3v voltage regulator. This must be: LD1117V33, which has a TO-220 style package. 
- '''IC1''' - One 5.0v voltage regulator. This part is optional and should only be installed if you are planning to drive 12v pixels. 
- '''Q1''' - One Mosfet. This must be: 2N7000 or ZVN3306A, which has a T0-92-3 style package 
- A five pin screw terminal header. 5 positions total. This connection should have '''3.81mm spacing''' of the mounting pins. 
 
The ESPixel Pops Tiny board has the same BOM but you '''omit''': 
- '''D1''' - One diode. This must be: 1N4148 
- One tactile switch. 6mm x 6mm. 
- One six pin header. Readily available 2.54mm (.1") pitch.

'''One of the DIYC members, beeiilll, constructed BOMs for three vendors.''' They are contained in the thread:
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter/page27&highlight=espixel Click Here:]

Within that thread, you can find the BOMs in these posts: 
The BOM's are: 

Mouser BOM is in Post #35 
Arrow BOM is in Post #48 
Digikey BOM is in Post #49 

'''BOM UPDATE:'''
DIYC member mattd has done some research and created a BOM with some alternate manufacturers. 
If you are willing to buy parts with a minimum quantity of 25, he has gotten the per board cost of parts down to $2.41 (not including the ESP-01) 
All the details are in the same thread noted above in '''post # 396'''.
Found here: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?47269-Espixel-by-Bill-Porter&p=490075#post490075 alternative BOM link]

== Construction Information ==

[[Image:Pixel_pops_both.jpg|right|small]]
The ESPixel Pops is a pretty easy build. The real trick is deciding how you plan to power your pixels as that will affect what you do with the board wiring. 

Depending on your power source, this determines if you should install the 5V regulator or just put a jumper in its place as noted on the the board.

The board has a main voltage regulator that provides 3.3V of power to run the ESP8266 module. This module does not care if you are running 5V or 12V pixels. So, you can connect 5V or 12V to the board.

The board has a place for a second voltage regulator. This is to accommodate 12V pixels.
 
This is location IC1 on the board. This is a spot for either a 5V regulator or a wire jumper. 
 
'''To summarize the population of the voltage regulators and ICs:''' 
The pard labeled: U1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: Q1 is always installed. 
The part labeled: IC1 is installed if you are running 12V Pixel strings 
The part labeled: IC1 is NOT installed if you are running 5V Pixel strings AND you must place a jumper in its place as noted on the board. 

== Wiring The ESPixel Pops ==
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]
[[Image:Pixel_pops_tiny_with_radio_built_by_Steven_Dill.jpg|right|small]]

'''A Key Point Regarding Power''' 
The power supply you use must match the voltage requirement of your pixels. 
So, if you run 5V pixels, you must have a 5V PS. Same is true for 12V pixels. 
'''If you accidentally use a 12V power supply on 5V pixels, you will damage your pixels, perhaps to the extent of destroying the entire string'''.

Along the bottom of the board are 5 connection points. (as viewed from the top...) 
The two on the left are for input power. 
The three on the right are for pixel connection. 

You can either solder on a terminal block or directly solder your wires to the board, or do a mix ! 
The Terminal block has 3.81mm hole spacing. (The more common 5mm terminal blocks would have made the board too wide) 

One thing you have to decide is if you will power your pixels through the ESPixel Stick or directly to the Pixel string. (sometimes referenced as "power injection") 
It is possible to use the ESPixel Pops as an interface for just the data and run power to the pixels separately. 
This is a decision of personal preference and the fact the PCB traces can only handle so much power. 
Trial and error is your best approach. 

== Programming the ESP-01 Module ==

To program the ESP-01, you need to have a board that can load the code. 
The ESPixel Pops board can do this, (but not the ''TINY'') 
You can also purchase a dedicated programming board. 
For example, the Pops-O-Matic programming board is a dedicated ESP-01 programming board. Others are also available. 
Information is here: [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pops-O-Matic_ESP_Programmer Pops-O-Matic Programmer] 
The heart and soul of the pixel stick variants is the firmware that runs on the the ESP-01 module. 
Work has been done to consolidate to one common set of code. 

Shelby Merrick is the keeper (and key cook & bottle washer) of this code. 
He keeps the current release of code on his github page. 
You can find that here: [https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick/releases Pixel Stick Software] 

As of 10/30/2017, the current release was version: '''3.0''' 

For Shelby's v3.0 release, there is a Java Flash Tool that you run, enter your SSID and PSK for your wireless network, Pixel, the correct COM port and Upload. 

'''Here is a posting by PCpackrat that describes his experience: NOTE: the most current info is at the github webpage noted below...''' 
this can also be found at this DIYC posting #122 in this thread: [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?40311-ESPixel-GECE-Info-Thread Info Thread] 

''The firmware is here: https://github.com/forkineye/ESPixelStick

Read through the README.md dont skim like I did. There is a part (gulp) that requires java to 'zip' up the web site information. I just did that part in linux and then copied the files into the data/www folder in the ESPixelStick folder.

Install the prerequisites in README.md

Pay careful attention to the Arduino for ESP8288 version (2.40-rc1). You will have to choose this branch for download.

My short and dirty TL;DR and things I missed:

Modify ssid and passphrase at the top of ESPixelStick.ino

Under Tools:
Choose your board as Generic ESP8266 Module
Flash Size should be 1M (128K SPIFFS)
CPU Frequency 160 MHz
Upload Speed 115200

Power the unit with the button pressed

Upload the firmware

Remove power from the unit and replug again with the button pressed.

Go to Tools and then ESP8266 Sketch data upload (serial monitor has to be closed for this)

'''To Summarize the whole process:''' 
Download the latest Firmware. 
Install Java JRE. 
Run the ESPSFlashTool.jar once Java is installed. 
Configure your settings and let it upload. 
Your ESP-01 is now ready to work. 

''

== Pictures of built Pixel Pops boards ==
user '''kev''' in California uses Snapple bottles to build a water resistant enclosure for 5 cents
[[File:Pixelpops_enclosure.jpg]]
 
'''Steven Dill''' uses a Pixel Pops Tiny board enclosed in 1" thin wall PCV to control the coro star on a mega tree.
[[File:Pops_tiny_star.jpg]]
[[File:Pops_tiny_star2.jpg]]

user '''Siconic''' has built both types of boards. 
'''If you look closely, you will see that one is constructed for 5V pixels and the other for 12V pixels''' 
[[File:Pixel_pops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixel_pops_tiny.jpg]]

'''Tyson Howard''' mounted his pixel pops in a standard size hobby box.
[[File:Tysonhoward.jpg]]

File:Tysonhoward.jpg

2018-11-09T23:08:23Z

Ukewarrior:

Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer

2018-10-25T13:44:13Z

Ukewarrior: /* Pops-O-Matic Overview */

[[Image:Popsomatic.jpg||Version V2]]

==What is the Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer ?==

The Pops-O-Matic is a dedicated programming board for the popular ESP-01 module.
 
This board was inspired from two articles on allaboutcircuits.com. Specifically: 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/build-9-linear-voltage-regulators-from-2.5v-to-15v-that-use-the-same-pcb/ Voltage Regulator] 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/flashing-the-ESP-01-firmware-to-SDK-v2.0.0-is-easier-now/ ESP Flashing Circuit] 
This programming board supplies both the regulated power and the programming interface for the ESP-01 module. 
'''''It specifically isolates the ESP-01 from any of the positive power that may be supplied by your serial-to-TTL programmer.''''' 
Only Ground, Transmit, and Receive are connected from the external serial-to-TTL programmer to the Pops-O-Matic. (with the assumption you hook it up properly) 
The purpose of this is twofold. 
1. To protect the ESP-01 module from voltages over 3.3V. (Many TTL programmers are normally run at 5V) 
2. To provide the ESP-01 with well regulated and steady power during the programming sequence. 

==Pops-O-Matic Overview==

The Pop-O-Matic is designed to be flexible in assembly and use. 
It can take a wide variation of power input voltages (5V-16V) and can support up to 5 different power connections. 
The board is designed to use any of the following for a power input connection types: 
1. 5mm Terminal Block 
2. 3.5mm Terminal Block 
3. Micro USB 
4. Mini USB 
5. Barrel Terminal Jack 
The board has a power ON/OFF switch with a power ON LED indicator. 
NOTE: 
Input power should be at least 400ma.

== Order a board ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Pops-O-Matic board at Your Own Risk !''' 
'''The Pops-O-Matic board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''

== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts. The '''SKU at TAYDA electronics''' (www.taydaelectronics.com) is listed as a reference example following the silkscreen part identifier. 
A typical total for these parts is about $3-$4 not including the ESP-01 module and the TTL converter. 
Parts U1 & ESP-01 are not sold by TAYDA.

- '''Input Connectors A-662''' - As noted earlier, you have choices for the power input connector. You can populate the board with all the connectors at the same time. The exception to this is that the 3.5mm and 5mm terminal blocks share the same space on the board. 
Of course, you can populate it with any combination that suits your fancy, including none at all. 
The possible input connectors are: SMD micro USB, through hole mini USB, Terminal Barrel, 3.5mm & 5mm Terminal block. 
- '''S3 A-2001''' - Power Switch. SPDT ON-OFF-ON This part is optional. You can short the middle and left holes together to set the board to permanently ON. This SPDT switch has 5mm pin spacing. Most any style will do, both slide and toggle for example. 
- '''D1 A-484''' - Diode, specifically 1N5819 
- '''C1 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C2 A-4506''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 10V, 220uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''C3 A-319''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.33uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C4 A-4552''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 1000uF, 5mm lead spacing, 13mm max diameter. 
- '''C5 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C6 A-4534''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 10uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''POWER A-1554''' - LED, 5mm, any color. 
- '''R1 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R2 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R3 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R4 A-2282''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 560 ohm. 
- '''100R''' - There is a resistor labeled 100R to the right of the power switch. It is not needed. 
- '''U1''' - Voltage Regulator, 3.3V, specifically LM2937ET-3.3, TO-220 package. 
- '''S1 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''S2 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''ESP01 A-1682''' - 2x4 femaie pin header. 2.54mm spacing. 
- '''ESP01''' - ESP-01 module. This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic. It is the board the Pops-O-Matic will help you program. 
- '''USB to TTL A-1384''' - A 6 pin header. Either vertical or 90 degree mounting. Male or Female to match the pins on your USB-to-TTL Converter. 
- '''USB to TTL converter A-1991''' - This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic board, but you will need one if you don't already have one. The two most popular models are known as the FT232RL and CP2102. The FT232RL by FTDI was the defacto-standard until they released a code version that would brick peoples PC's in an effort to combat Chinese clones. This angered a lot of the '''Maker''' community. The CP2102 then arose as a competitor to FTDI. Both of these programmers are available all over the internet, ebay and aliexpress. You can also order one off of TAYDA as noted. 

== Construction Information ==
This board is pretty simple. Just follow typical assembly practices. 
Solder from lowest to the board to tallest components last. 
Hopefully, you can find some of the parts in your electronics junk drawer stash. 
The only reason for five possible power inputs is to match up with whatever is easiest for you use from a power input source. 
For example, the usb connections exist to support your typical cell phone charger or any other USB power source. (which is always 5V). 
Or you may have an old power brick that has a round terminal barrel connector. 
The voltage values of the referenced capacitors can be changed. You can always use a higher voltage capacitor in place of the noted voltage. 
Additionally, you may be able to use a lower voltage than what is noted. 
i.e. C3 and C4 are on the power input side of the voltage regulator. If you know FOR SURE that you will never use a voltage over 5V for an input, then these capacitors can be any value above 7.5V and will be just fine. But, if you forget and apply 12V, the caps will let out their magic smoke. 
Likewise, capacitors C1, C5 and C6 are after the voltage regulator and will never see a voltage above 3.3V. Therefore, any voltage rating above 5V should be safe. 
All this to say is that you can often find a lot of the parts you need for a low voltage board like this in your stash or salvage from other boards. 

== Errata ==
[[Image:Popsomatic_back.jpg|right|small]]
The initial board run has one small error. 
There is an unwanted trace on the back of the board that connects the right most pin '''(as viewed from the TOP) '''of part C5 to the ground backplane that covers the bottom of the board. 
This unwanted trace should have been placed on the left most pin of C5. 
All boards sent out, have had this unwanted trace scraped off the board. 
So, the end user doesn't need to do anything to fix this error. 

Due to this error, the capacitor for C5 must be mounted using the middle and right most holes only. The left most hole is not connected to anything.
 
This may cause a problem if your C5 capacitor has 5mm spaced leads. In this case, you would either bend the leads to fit the more narrow spacing, 
or you can insert the left most pin through the hole and then bend if over to connect to the middle hole. 
In other words, part C5 must have pins touching the middle and right holes. Again, all references are from the top view of the board.

== Pictures of built Pops-O-Matic boards ==

Tyson Howard's build:
[[File:Pixelpops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixelpops2.jpg]]

Pops original build:
[[File:purgeme3.jpg]]
[[File:purgeme1.jpg]]

Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer

2018-10-22T13:59:33Z

Ukewarrior: /* Pictures of built Pops-O-Matic boards */

[[Image:Popsomatic.jpg||Version V2]]

==What is the Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer ?==

The Pops-O-Matic is a dedicated programming board for the popular ESP-01 module.
 
This board was inspired from two articles on allaboutcircuits.com. Specifically: 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/build-9-linear-voltage-regulators-from-2.5v-to-15v-that-use-the-same-pcb/ Voltage Regulator] 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/flashing-the-ESP-01-firmware-to-SDK-v2.0.0-is-easier-now/ ESP Flashing Circuit] 
This programming board supplies both the regulated power and the programming interface for the ESP-01 module. 
'''''It specifically isolates the ESP-01 from any of the positive power that may be supplied by your serial-to-TTL programmer.''''' 
Only Ground, Transmit, and Receive are connected from the external serial-to-TTL programmer to the Pops-O-Matic. (with the assumption you hook it up properly) 
The purpose of this is twofold. 
1. To protect the ESP-01 module from voltages over 3.3V. (Many TTL programmers are normally run at 5V) 
2. To provide the ESP-01 with well regulated and steady power during the programming sequence. 

==Pops-O-Matic Overview==

The Pop-O-Matic is designed to be flexible in assembly and use. 
It can take a wide variation of power input voltages (5V-16V) and can support up to 5 different power connections. 
The board is designed to use any of the following for a power input connection types: 
1. 5mm Terminal Block 
2. 3.5mm Terminal Block 
3. Micro USB 
4. Mini USB 
5. Barrel Terminal Jack 
The board has a power ON/OFF switch with a power ON LED indicator. 

== Order a board ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Pops-O-Matic board at Your Own Risk !''' 
'''The Pops-O-Matic board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''

== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts. The '''SKU at TAYDA electronics''' (www.taydaelectronics.com) is listed as a reference example following the silkscreen part identifier. 
A typical total for these parts is about $3-$4 not including the ESP-01 module and the TTL converter. 
Parts U1 & ESP-01 are not sold by TAYDA.

- '''Input Connectors A-662''' - As noted earlier, you have choices for the power input connector. You can populate the board with all the connectors at the same time. The exception to this is that the 3.5mm and 5mm terminal blocks share the same space on the board. 
Of course, you can populate it with any combination that suits your fancy, including none at all. 
The possible input connectors are: SMD micro USB, through hole mini USB, Terminal Barrel, 3.5mm & 5mm Terminal block. 
- '''S3 A-2001''' - Power Switch. SPDT ON-OFF-ON This part is optional. You can short the middle and left holes together to set the board to permanently ON. This SPDT switch has 5mm pin spacing. Most any style will do, both slide and toggle for example. 
- '''D1 A-484''' - Diode, specifically 1N5819 
- '''C1 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C2 A-4506''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 10V, 220uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''C3 A-319''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.33uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C4 A-4552''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 1000uF, 5mm lead spacing, 13mm max diameter. 
- '''C5 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C6 A-4534''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 10uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''POWER A-1554''' - LED, 5mm, any color. 
- '''R1 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R2 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R3 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R4 A-2282''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 560 ohm. 
- '''100R''' - There is a resistor labeled 100R to the right of the power switch. It is not needed. 
- '''U1''' - Voltage Regulator, 3.3V, specifically LM2937ET-3.3, TO-220 package. 
- '''S1 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''S2 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''ESP01 A-1682''' - 2x4 femaie pin header. 2.54mm spacing. 
- '''ESP01''' - ESP-01 module. This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic. It is the board the Pops-O-Matic will help you program. 
- '''USB to TTL A-1384''' - A 6 pin header. Either vertical or 90 degree mounting. Male or Female to match the pins on your USB-to-TTL Converter. 
- '''USB to TTL converter A-1991''' - This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic board, but you will need one if you don't already have one. The two most popular models are known as the FT232RL and CP2102. The FT232RL by FTDI was the defacto-standard until they released a code version that would brick peoples PC's in an effort to combat Chinese clones. This angered a lot of the '''Maker''' community. The CP2102 then arose as a competitor to FTDI. Both of these programmers are available all over the internet, ebay and aliexpress. You can also order one off of TAYDA as noted. 

== Construction Information ==
This board is pretty simple. Just follow typical assembly practices. 
Solder from lowest to the board to tallest components last. 
Hopefully, you can find some of the parts in your electronics junk drawer stash. 
The only reason for five possible power inputs is to match up with whatever is easiest for you use from a power input source. 
For example, the usb connections exist to support your typical cell phone charger or any other USB power source. (which is always 5V). 
Or you may have an old power brick that has a round terminal barrel connector. 
The voltage values of the referenced capacitors can be changed. You can always use a higher voltage capacitor in place of the noted voltage. 
Additionally, you may be able to use a lower voltage than what is noted. 
i.e. C3 and C4 are on the power input side of the voltage regulator. If you know FOR SURE that you will never use a voltage over 5V for an input, then these capacitors can be any value above 7.5V and will be just fine. But, if you forget and apply 12V, the caps will let out their magic smoke. 
Likewise, capacitors C1, C5 and C6 are after the voltage regulator and will never see a voltage above 3.3V. Therefore, any voltage rating above 5V should be safe. 
All this to say is that you can often find a lot of the parts you need for a low voltage board like this in your stash or salvage from other boards. 

== Errata ==
[[Image:Popsomatic_back.jpg|right|small]]
The initial board run has one small error. 
There is an unwanted trace on the back of the board that connects the right most pin '''(as viewed from the TOP) '''of part C5 to the ground backplane that covers the bottom of the board. 
This unwanted trace should have been placed on the left most pin of C5. 
All boards sent out, have had this unwanted trace scraped off the board. 
So, the end user doesn't need to do anything to fix this error. 

Due to this error, the capacitor for C5 must be mounted using the middle and right most holes only. The left most hole is not connected to anything.
 
This may cause a problem if your C5 capacitor has 5mm spaced leads. In this case, you would either bend the leads to fit the more narrow spacing, 
or you can insert the left most pin through the hole and then bend if over to connect to the middle hole. 
In other words, part C5 must have pins touching the middle and right holes. Again, all references are from the top view of the board.

== Pictures of built Pops-O-Matic boards ==

Tyson Howard's build:
[[File:Pixelpops.jpg]]
[[File:Pixelpops2.jpg]]

Pops original build:
[[File:purgeme3.jpg]]
[[File:purgeme1.jpg]]

File:Pixelpops2.jpg

2018-10-22T13:59:05Z

Ukewarrior:

Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer

2018-10-22T13:57:51Z

Ukewarrior: /* Pictures of built Pops-O-Matic boards */

[[Image:Popsomatic.jpg||Version V2]]

==What is the Pops-O-Matic ESP Programmer ?==

The Pops-O-Matic is a dedicated programming board for the popular ESP-01 module.
 
This board was inspired from two articles on allaboutcircuits.com. Specifically: 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/build-9-linear-voltage-regulators-from-2.5v-to-15v-that-use-the-same-pcb/ Voltage Regulator] 
[https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/projects/flashing-the-ESP-01-firmware-to-SDK-v2.0.0-is-easier-now/ ESP Flashing Circuit] 
This programming board supplies both the regulated power and the programming interface for the ESP-01 module. 
'''''It specifically isolates the ESP-01 from any of the positive power that may be supplied by your serial-to-TTL programmer.''''' 
Only Ground, Transmit, and Receive are connected from the external serial-to-TTL programmer to the Pops-O-Matic. (with the assumption you hook it up properly) 
The purpose of this is twofold. 
1. To protect the ESP-01 module from voltages over 3.3V. (Many TTL programmers are normally run at 5V) 
2. To provide the ESP-01 with well regulated and steady power during the programming sequence. 

==Pops-O-Matic Overview==

The Pop-O-Matic is designed to be flexible in assembly and use. 
It can take a wide variation of power input voltages (5V-16V) and can support up to 5 different power connections. 
The board is designed to use any of the following for a power input connection types: 
1. 5mm Terminal Block 
2. 3.5mm Terminal Block 
3. Micro USB 
4. Mini USB 
5. Barrel Terminal Jack 
The board has a power ON/OFF switch with a power ON LED indicator. 

== Order a board ==
Contact ukewarrior via a PM on DIYC as he often has boards in stock, cheap !

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Pops-O-Matic board at Your Own Risk !''' 
'''The Pops-O-Matic board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''

== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these generically described parts. The '''SKU at TAYDA electronics''' (www.taydaelectronics.com) is listed as a reference example following the silkscreen part identifier. 
A typical total for these parts is about $3-$4 not including the ESP-01 module and the TTL converter. 
Parts U1 & ESP-01 are not sold by TAYDA.

- '''Input Connectors A-662''' - As noted earlier, you have choices for the power input connector. You can populate the board with all the connectors at the same time. The exception to this is that the 3.5mm and 5mm terminal blocks share the same space on the board. 
Of course, you can populate it with any combination that suits your fancy, including none at all. 
The possible input connectors are: SMD micro USB, through hole mini USB, Terminal Barrel, 3.5mm & 5mm Terminal block. 
- '''S3 A-2001''' - Power Switch. SPDT ON-OFF-ON This part is optional. You can short the middle and left holes together to set the board to permanently ON. This SPDT switch has 5mm pin spacing. Most any style will do, both slide and toggle for example. 
- '''D1 A-484''' - Diode, specifically 1N5819 
- '''C1 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C2 A-4506''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 10V, 220uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''C3 A-319''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.33uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C4 A-4552''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 1000uF, 5mm lead spacing, 13mm max diameter. 
- '''C5 A-214''' - MLCC, ceramic Capacitor. 50v, 0.1uF, 2.54mm or 5mm lead spacing. 
- '''C6 A-4534''' - Electrolytic Capacitor. 25V, 10uF, 2mm lead spacing, 6mm max diameter. 
- '''POWER A-1554''' - LED, 5mm, any color. 
- '''R1 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R2 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R3 A-2203''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 10K ohm. 
- '''R4 A-2282''' - 1/4W carbon or metal film resistor. 560 ohm. 
- '''100R''' - There is a resistor labeled 100R to the right of the power switch. It is not needed. 
- '''U1''' - Voltage Regulator, 3.3V, specifically LM2937ET-3.3, TO-220 package. 
- '''S1 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''S2 A-5143''' - Tactile Switch. 6x6mm through hole. 
- '''ESP01 A-1682''' - 2x4 femaie pin header. 2.54mm spacing. 
- '''ESP01''' - ESP-01 module. This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic. It is the board the Pops-O-Matic will help you program. 
- '''USB to TTL A-1384''' - A 6 pin header. Either vertical or 90 degree mounting. Male or Female to match the pins on your USB-to-TTL Converter. 
- '''USB to TTL converter A-1991''' - This is not actually part of the Pops-O-Matic board, but you will need one if you don't already have one. The two most popular models are known as the FT232RL and CP2102. The FT232RL by FTDI was the defacto-standard until they released a code version that would brick peoples PC's in an effort to combat Chinese clones. This angered a lot of the '''Maker''' community. The CP2102 then arose as a competitor to FTDI. Both of these programmers are available all over the internet, ebay and aliexpress. You can also order one off of TAYDA as noted. 

== Construction Information ==
This board is pretty simple. Just follow typical assembly practices. 
Solder from lowest to the board to tallest components last. 
Hopefully, you can find some of the parts in your electronics junk drawer stash. 
The only reason for five possible power inputs is to match up with whatever is easiest for you use from a power input source. 
For example, the usb connections exist to support your typical cell phone charger or any other USB power source. (which is always 5V). 
Or you may have an old power brick that has a round terminal barrel connector. 
The voltage values of the referenced capacitors can be changed. You can always use a higher voltage capacitor in place of the noted voltage. 
Additionally, you may be able to use a lower voltage than what is noted. 
i.e. C3 and C4 are on the power input side of the voltage regulator. If you know FOR SURE that you will never use a voltage over 5V for an input, then these capacitors can be any value above 7.5V and will be just fine. But, if you forget and apply 12V, the caps will let out their magic smoke. 
Likewise, capacitors C1, C5 and C6 are after the voltage regulator and will never see a voltage above 3.3V. Therefore, any voltage rating above 5V should be safe. 
All this to say is that you can often find a lot of the parts you need for a low voltage board like this in your stash or salvage from other boards. 

== Errata ==
[[Image:Popsomatic_back.jpg|right|small]]
The initial board run has one small error. 
There is an unwanted trace on the back of the board that connects the right most pin '''(as viewed from the TOP) '''of part C5 to the ground backplane that covers the bottom of the board. 
This unwanted trace should have been placed on the left most pin of C5. 
All boards sent out, have had this unwanted trace scraped off the board. 
So, the end user doesn't need to do anything to fix this error. 

Due to this error, the capacitor for C5 must be mounted using the middle and right most holes only. The left most hole is not connected to anything.
 
This may cause a problem if your C5 capacitor has 5mm spaced leads. In this case, you would either bend the leads to fit the more narrow spacing, 
or you can insert the left most pin through the hole and then bend if over to connect to the middle hole. 
In other words, part C5 must have pins touching the middle and right holes. Again, all references are from the top view of the board.

== Pictures of built Pops-O-Matic boards ==

Tyson Howard's build:
[[File:Pixelpops.jpg]]

Pops original build:
[[File:purgeme3.jpg]]
[[File:purgeme1.jpg]]

File:Pixelpops.jpg

2018-10-22T13:56:35Z

Ukewarrior:

Power Pops Fanout - 1 Input with 4 Outputs

2018-06-27T13:40:18Z

Ukewarrior: /* Finished Board */

==The Power Pops Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter.==

This board is designed to take one input DC power feed and split it into 4 Main outputs & 4 accessory (low amperage) outlets. 
The current version is v2.1.
 
 
Each Main output on the board has its own mini-automobile style fuse that is rated up to 5 amps. 
The four accessory outlets share one mini-automobile style fuse. 
Each fuse has a LED status indicator to show if power is flowing through that fuse; therefore showing that power is present and that the fuse is good.
 
 
There is a switch on the board that activates the function of all the status LEDs thereby allowing the user to turn off the LEDs unless needed. This switch does NOT turn off the power feed. It has no affect on the flow of power except to the LED indicators.
 
[[File:Pictureof v2-1.jpg]]
 


== Finished Board ==
[[Image:Purgeme2.jpg]]



== General Features ==

'''The Power Pops Fanout board has these main features''' 
'''1. Supports the splitting of up to 20 amps of DC power into 4 individual power outlets of up to 5 amps each.''' 
'''2. Has four accessory outlets to power low amperage devices like a voltmeter or a fan.''' 
'''3. Is a DIY board using all through hole components for easy DIY soldering.''' 
'''4. Was designed and LOAD TESTED to support up to 20 amps of DC power at a maximum of 28 Volts.'''
 
'''5. Input & output power can be soldered directly to the board or mounted via Screw down lugs(input) and 5mm terminal blocks(outputs).'''
 
'''6. Each Main power output is individually fused with a status LED indicating the state of power and the fuse.''' 
'''7. The four accessory outlets share one Fuse.''' 
'''8. The board measures 100x50mm''' 
'''9. Has 4 mounting holes.''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper(top & bottom) and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering.

== A LOAD TESTED Design ==

Full load testing was done with this distribution board to ensure that it could perform within the specified guidelines. 

Testing was done with genuine Mean Well power supplies in 5v, 12v, 24v and 36v, LRS-350 series. 
Load testing was done with TTi LD300 DC Electronic load equipment at 1a, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 10a, 15a and 20a. 
The pdf link below documents the testing that was done using 12awg stranded copper wire for input and 14awg stranded copper wire for output. 

[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38064&d=1510023884 Load Testing Report]

== Order some boards ==

You can order your own boards from Holiday Lighting. They are stock bare PCBs, Full DIY kits, and assembled units. 
You can find them at: http://holiday.lighting

== Fuses ==

[[Image:5_amp_fuse.jpg|right|small]]

The board has four independently fused power outputs. 
The board is designed to use mini automobile style fuses. 
Each main output fuse can be any value up to 5 Amps. 
It is recommended that the accessory fuse be set to no more than 1 amp.

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Power Pops Fanout board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The Power Pops Fanout board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these parts:

- Two screw down power lugs for power input. The board was designed to use part B12-PCB-S from LugsDirect.com. Link: https://lugsdirect.com/B12-PCB.htm 
- Four 5.08mm terminal blocks for power output. These are often referred to as 5mm terminal blocks too. 
- Five 1/4W resistors. The value of the resistors depends on the input voltage and LED used. However, a value of 1.2K will work for most LEDs. 
- Five indicator 3mm LEDs. Any color can be used. The Forward Voltage and current draw of the LED factor into the resistor value combination. 
- Four Fuses, mini Automobile style, any combination with any value up to 5 Amps maximum, for the main power outputs. 
- One Fuse, mini Automobile style, with a value up to 1 Amps maximum, for the accessory power outputs. 
- Five Fuse Holders, specifically Keystone parts: 3544-2 or 3634-2. Please note that 3634-2 has a mechanism to hold the fuse especially tight. Some folks may find this annoying; therefore, 3544-2 is recommended. 
- One SPDT mini switch. eg. digikey part: 450-1609-ND or Sparkfun part: COM-09609 If you look around, you can often find these at other suppliers for much less than digikey or sparkfun. The leads on this switch are spaced at .1" apart or 2.54mm which is the same as your typical pin header strip. 
- Four, two pin, pin headers, 2.54mm lead spacing. You can also use a terminal block with 2.54mm lead spacing.

== Construction Information ==

One specific oddity that may not be obvious is that the fuse holder board pins are not spaced evenly from side to side. Therefore, there is only one correct orientation as shown by the fuse outline on the board.

As noted on the board, the input wires should be 12, 14 or 16 AWG. If using 16 AWG or if using stranded twisted wires, the lug manufacturer recommends the use of wire ferrules. 

The only tricky part of assembling the board is the input power lugs as these have a very large surface area to cover. Just take your time and have plenty of solder ready to use. You should put solder on both the top and bottom of the board. Be sure to fill the mounting holes completely. NOTE: be sure the screws are tight before soldering to ensure the lug body is tight against the PCB as you solder. 

It is suggested you solder the lugs on first, followed by the fuse holders, output terminal blocks, pin headers, resistors, the switch, and finally the LEDs.

== Board Layout Diagrams ==

The pdf linked below shows the hole layout dimensions. 
The outer dimenstion of the board is exactly 100mm x 50mm. 
[[Media:Power_board_hole_layout.pdf]]
 

The pdf linked below can be opened and printed for a drilling template.
Be sure to print it without any scaling. i.e. print at 1:1 by turning OFF the FIT TO PAGE or SCALE option which by default is turned on.

[[Media:Power_board_layout.pdf]]

== End User Pictures ==

Here is '''Kev7274''' testing out the placement of voltmeters on one of his boards: (the alligator clips are just for testing)
[[File:Kev7274.jpg]]
 
'''pmiller''' mounted a voltmeter with through hole screws.
He could do this because the top half of the board is the positive power plane, both top and bottom. As long as you don't get into the traces for the low amperage connectors, this will work...and Bob's your Uncle!
[[File:Purgemex.jpg]]

Power Pops Fanout - 1 Input with 4 Outputs

2018-06-27T13:39:53Z

Ukewarrior: /* General Features */

==The Power Pops Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter.==

This board is designed to take one input DC power feed and split it into 4 Main outputs & 4 accessory (low amperage) outlets. 
The current version is v2.1.
 
 
Each Main output on the board has its own mini-automobile style fuse that is rated up to 5 amps. 
The four accessory outlets share one mini-automobile style fuse. 
Each fuse has a LED status indicator to show if power is flowing through that fuse; therefore showing that power is present and that the fuse is good.
 
 
There is a switch on the board that activates the function of all the status LEDs thereby allowing the user to turn off the LEDs unless needed. This switch does NOT turn off the power feed. It has no affect on the flow of power except to the LED indicators.
 
[[File:Pictureof v2-1.jpg]]
 


== Finished Board ==
[[Image:Purgeme2.jpg|left|small]]


== General Features ==

'''The Power Pops Fanout board has these main features''' 
'''1. Supports the splitting of up to 20 amps of DC power into 4 individual power outlets of up to 5 amps each.''' 
'''2. Has four accessory outlets to power low amperage devices like a voltmeter or a fan.''' 
'''3. Is a DIY board using all through hole components for easy DIY soldering.''' 
'''4. Was designed and LOAD TESTED to support up to 20 amps of DC power at a maximum of 28 Volts.'''
 
'''5. Input & output power can be soldered directly to the board or mounted via Screw down lugs(input) and 5mm terminal blocks(outputs).'''
 
'''6. Each Main power output is individually fused with a status LED indicating the state of power and the fuse.''' 
'''7. The four accessory outlets share one Fuse.''' 
'''8. The board measures 100x50mm''' 
'''9. Has 4 mounting holes.''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper(top & bottom) and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering.

== A LOAD TESTED Design ==

Full load testing was done with this distribution board to ensure that it could perform within the specified guidelines. 

Testing was done with genuine Mean Well power supplies in 5v, 12v, 24v and 36v, LRS-350 series. 
Load testing was done with TTi LD300 DC Electronic load equipment at 1a, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 10a, 15a and 20a. 
The pdf link below documents the testing that was done using 12awg stranded copper wire for input and 14awg stranded copper wire for output. 

[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38064&d=1510023884 Load Testing Report]

== Order some boards ==

You can order your own boards from Holiday Lighting. They are stock bare PCBs, Full DIY kits, and assembled units. 
You can find them at: http://holiday.lighting

== Fuses ==

[[Image:5_amp_fuse.jpg|right|small]]

The board has four independently fused power outputs. 
The board is designed to use mini automobile style fuses. 
Each main output fuse can be any value up to 5 Amps. 
It is recommended that the accessory fuse be set to no more than 1 amp.

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Power Pops Fanout board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The Power Pops Fanout board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these parts:

- Two screw down power lugs for power input. The board was designed to use part B12-PCB-S from LugsDirect.com. Link: https://lugsdirect.com/B12-PCB.htm 
- Four 5.08mm terminal blocks for power output. These are often referred to as 5mm terminal blocks too. 
- Five 1/4W resistors. The value of the resistors depends on the input voltage and LED used. However, a value of 1.2K will work for most LEDs. 
- Five indicator 3mm LEDs. Any color can be used. The Forward Voltage and current draw of the LED factor into the resistor value combination. 
- Four Fuses, mini Automobile style, any combination with any value up to 5 Amps maximum, for the main power outputs. 
- One Fuse, mini Automobile style, with a value up to 1 Amps maximum, for the accessory power outputs. 
- Five Fuse Holders, specifically Keystone parts: 3544-2 or 3634-2. Please note that 3634-2 has a mechanism to hold the fuse especially tight. Some folks may find this annoying; therefore, 3544-2 is recommended. 
- One SPDT mini switch. eg. digikey part: 450-1609-ND or Sparkfun part: COM-09609 If you look around, you can often find these at other suppliers for much less than digikey or sparkfun. The leads on this switch are spaced at .1" apart or 2.54mm which is the same as your typical pin header strip. 
- Four, two pin, pin headers, 2.54mm lead spacing. You can also use a terminal block with 2.54mm lead spacing.

== Construction Information ==

One specific oddity that may not be obvious is that the fuse holder board pins are not spaced evenly from side to side. Therefore, there is only one correct orientation as shown by the fuse outline on the board.

As noted on the board, the input wires should be 12, 14 or 16 AWG. If using 16 AWG or if using stranded twisted wires, the lug manufacturer recommends the use of wire ferrules. 

The only tricky part of assembling the board is the input power lugs as these have a very large surface area to cover. Just take your time and have plenty of solder ready to use. You should put solder on both the top and bottom of the board. Be sure to fill the mounting holes completely. NOTE: be sure the screws are tight before soldering to ensure the lug body is tight against the PCB as you solder. 

It is suggested you solder the lugs on first, followed by the fuse holders, output terminal blocks, pin headers, resistors, the switch, and finally the LEDs.

== Board Layout Diagrams ==

The pdf linked below shows the hole layout dimensions. 
The outer dimenstion of the board is exactly 100mm x 50mm. 
[[Media:Power_board_hole_layout.pdf]]
 

The pdf linked below can be opened and printed for a drilling template.
Be sure to print it without any scaling. i.e. print at 1:1 by turning OFF the FIT TO PAGE or SCALE option which by default is turned on.

[[Media:Power_board_layout.pdf]]

== End User Pictures ==

Here is '''Kev7274''' testing out the placement of voltmeters on one of his boards: (the alligator clips are just for testing)
[[File:Kev7274.jpg]]
 
'''pmiller''' mounted a voltmeter with through hole screws.
He could do this because the top half of the board is the positive power plane, both top and bottom. As long as you don't get into the traces for the low amperage connectors, this will work...and Bob's your Uncle!
[[File:Purgemex.jpg]]

Power Pops Fanout - 1 Input with 4 Outputs

2018-06-27T13:39:02Z

Ukewarrior: /* General Features */

==The Power Pops Fanout Board is a simple DC power splitter.==

This board is designed to take one input DC power feed and split it into 4 Main outputs & 4 accessory (low amperage) outlets. 
The current version is v2.1.
 
 
Each Main output on the board has its own mini-automobile style fuse that is rated up to 5 amps. 
The four accessory outlets share one mini-automobile style fuse. 
Each fuse has a LED status indicator to show if power is flowing through that fuse; therefore showing that power is present and that the fuse is good.
 
 
There is a switch on the board that activates the function of all the status LEDs thereby allowing the user to turn off the LEDs unless needed. This switch does NOT turn off the power feed. It has no affect on the flow of power except to the LED indicators.
 
[[File:Pictureof v2-1.jpg]]
 


== Finished Board ==
[[Image:Purgeme2.jpg|left|small]]

== General Features ==

'''The Power Pops Fanout board has these main features''' 
'''1. Supports the splitting of up to 20 amps of DC power into 4 individual power outlets of up to 5 amps each.''' 
'''2. Has four accessory outlets to power low amperage devices like a voltmeter or a fan.''' 
'''3. Is a DIY board using all through hole components for easy DIY soldering.''' 
'''4. Was designed and LOAD TESTED to support up to 20 amps of DC power at a maximum of 28 Volts.'''
 
'''5. Input & output power can be soldered directly to the board or mounted via Screw down lugs(input) and 5mm terminal blocks(outputs).'''
 
'''6. Each Main power output is individually fused with a status LED indicating the state of power and the fuse.''' 
'''7. The four accessory outlets share one Fuse.''' 
'''8. The board measures 100x50mm''' 
'''9. Has 4 mounting holes.''' 

The board is professionally manufactured with 1oz copper(top & bottom) and the holes are through plated. This makes for easy and more error free soldering.

== A LOAD TESTED Design ==

Full load testing was done with this distribution board to ensure that it could perform within the specified guidelines. 

Testing was done with genuine Mean Well power supplies in 5v, 12v, 24v and 36v, LRS-350 series. 
Load testing was done with TTi LD300 DC Electronic load equipment at 1a, 2a, 3a, 4a, 5a, 10a, 15a and 20a. 
The pdf link below documents the testing that was done using 12awg stranded copper wire for input and 14awg stranded copper wire for output. 

[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38064&d=1510023884 Load Testing Report]

== Order some boards ==

You can order your own boards from Holiday Lighting. They are stock bare PCBs, Full DIY kits, and assembled units. 
You can find them at: http://holiday.lighting

== Fuses ==

[[Image:5_amp_fuse.jpg|right|small]]

The board has four independently fused power outputs. 
The board is designed to use mini automobile style fuses. 
Each main output fuse can be any value up to 5 Amps. 
It is recommended that the accessory fuse be set to no more than 1 amp.

== Disclaimers ==

'''USE the Power Pops Fanout board at Your Own Risk !'''
'''The Power Pops Fanout board has NO warranty expressed or implied'''


== BOM - Bill of Materials ==

The BOM contains these parts:

- Two screw down power lugs for power input. The board was designed to use part B12-PCB-S from LugsDirect.com. Link: https://lugsdirect.com/B12-PCB.htm 
- Four 5.08mm terminal blocks for power output. These are often referred to as 5mm terminal blocks too. 
- Five 1/4W resistors. The value of the resistors depends on the input voltage and LED used. However, a value of 1.2K will work for most LEDs. 
- Five indicator 3mm LEDs. Any color can be used. The Forward Voltage and current draw of the LED factor into the resistor value combination. 
- Four Fuses, mini Automobile style, any combination with any value up to 5 Amps maximum, for the main power outputs. 
- One Fuse, mini Automobile style, with a value up to 1 Amps maximum, for the accessory power outputs. 
- Five Fuse Holders, specifically Keystone parts: 3544-2 or 3634-2. Please note that 3634-2 has a mechanism to hold the fuse especially tight. Some folks may find this annoying; therefore, 3544-2 is recommended. 
- One SPDT mini switch. eg. digikey part: 450-1609-ND or Sparkfun part: COM-09609 If you look around, you can often find these at other suppliers for much less than digikey or sparkfun. The leads on this switch are spaced at .1" apart or 2.54mm which is the same as your typical pin header strip. 
- Four, two pin, pin headers, 2.54mm lead spacing. You can also use a terminal block with 2.54mm lead spacing.

== Construction Information ==

One specific oddity that may not be obvious is that the fuse holder board pins are not spaced evenly from side to side. Therefore, there is only one correct orientation as shown by the fuse outline on the board.

As noted on the board, the input wires should be 12, 14 or 16 AWG. If using 16 AWG or if using stranded twisted wires, the lug manufacturer recommends the use of wire ferrules. 

The only tricky part of assembling the board is the input power lugs as these have a very large surface area to cover. Just take your time and have plenty of solder ready to use. You should put solder on both the top and bottom of the board. Be sure to fill the mounting holes completely. NOTE: be sure the screws are tight before soldering to ensure the lug body is tight against the PCB as you solder. 

It is suggested you solder the lugs on first, followed by the fuse holders, output terminal blocks, pin headers, resistors, the switch, and finally the LEDs.

== Board Layout Diagrams ==

The pdf linked below shows the hole layout dimensions. 
The outer dimenstion of the board is exactly 100mm x 50mm. 
[[Media:Power_board_hole_layout.pdf]]
 

The pdf linked below can be opened and printed for a drilling template.
Be sure to print it without any scaling. i.e. print at 1:1 by turning OFF the FIT TO PAGE or SCALE option which by default is turned on.

[[Media:Power_board_layout.pdf]]

== End User Pictures ==

Here is '''Kev7274''' testing out the placement of voltmeters on one of his boards: (the alligator clips are just for testing)
[[File:Kev7274.jpg]]
 
'''pmiller''' mounted a voltmeter with through hole screws.
He could do this because the top half of the board is the positive power plane, both top and bottom. As long as you don't get into the traces for the low amperage connectors, this will work...and Bob's your Uncle!
[[File:Purgemex.jpg]]