doityourselfchristmas.com - User contributions [en]

7 Steps to Selecting a Controller

2008-01-10T16:05:07Z

Michael: /* '''Step 5: Determine how you want your computer to communicate with your controller''' */

== '''Intro/Disclaimer:''' ==

: This is not a How-To on how to setup a computerized lighting display. This page does not address (directly) the additional factors required for a lighting display, e.g., SSRs, extension cords, CAT5 cable, board enclosures, or computer hardware.

: This page is intended to provide a new member with a logical sequence of things that they need to consider when deciding which light controller they should build.

: There are probably many views about the order of these steps but it is doubtful that anyone would say that these are the wrong things to consider when deciding on a light controller.

== '''Step 1: Determine the layout of your display''' ==

: Knowing how you plan to have your lights distributed will go a long way in helping decide which type of controller to go with. It doesn’t have to be set in stone but have a general idea of how you want things to be setup.

== '''Step 2: Determine if you want to have dimming capability in your display''' ==

: The single most important factor in narrowing the field to determine which controller board to go with.

::'''Non-Dimming controllers/methods'''
::# Olsen 595
::# Grinch <br> The Olsen 595 and Grinch can be made dimmable by adding a Ren-T and Ren-C but if you are starting from scratch there is no point in going that route if you know that you want dimming from the start.
::# Hill320
::# Kit74 relay board
::# Direct parallel port to SSR

::'''Dimming controllers'''
::# Renard8
::# Renard16 (Xmus16)
::# Lynx
::# Renard24
::# Renard64
::# Lynx Freestyle (in development)
::# Firegod

== '''Step 3: Determine which topology you will be using''' ==

: How you plan to setup your controllers and SSRs is a huge factor in which controller to use. It is the second most important factor in narrowing the field to determine which controller board to go with.

:'''Fully Centralized: ''' Controller board and SSRs are setup next to controlling computer (usually in the garage or house).

[[Image:Full Central.jpg]]
::* Advantages:
::# Controller and SSRs protected from the environment/vandals
::# Controller and SSRs easily accessible for troubleshooting/repair
::* Disadvantages:
::# Lots of long extension cords running from hardware to lights
::# Cost of long extension cords
::* Controller boards favored by this topology
::: All controller boards/methods can be used in this topology

:'''Partially Centralized: ''' Controller board is setup next to controlling computer and the SSRs are distributed outside around the display.

[[Image:Part Central.jpg]]
::* Advantages:
::# Ideal for small clusters of lights in multiple locations
::# Controller board protected from the enviroment/vandals
::# Less amount of long extension cords required
::# SSRs interchangeable, makes troubleshooting/repairs easier
::* Disadvantages:
::# Lots of CAT5 cable thru-out your display
::# SSRs exposed to the enviroment/vandals (requires weatherproof enclosure)
::*Controller boards most suitable for this topology
::# Olsen 595
::# Grinch
::# Hill320
::# Renard64
::# Lynx Freestyle
::# Firegod

:'''Decentralized: ''' Controller boards have SSRs integrated on them and are distributed outside around the display.

[[Image:decentral.jpg]]
::* Advantages:
::# Ideal for a large cluster of lights in one location
::# Less amount of cabling
::* Disadvantages:
::# Distance from computer to first controller can cause communication problems
::# Controller board exposed to the environment/vandals (requires weatherproof enclosure)
::* Controller boards most suitable for this topology
::# Renard16 (Xmus16)
::# Renard24
::# Lynx

== '''Step 4: Calculate your estimated channel count''' ==

: You need to have a good idea of how many channels you will be needing to control in your display.

: Channel count along with your desired topology drives how many controllers you will need.

::<blockquote>*** If you have gotten this far in the process then you should already have your decision narrowed down to just a few controller options. Now would be a good time to do some in-depth research into each of the boards that you are considering. This research will make determining which communication protocol to use much easier. ***</blockquote>

== '''Step 5: Determine how you want your computer to communicate with your controller''' ==

: '''Parallel'''
::* Advantages:
::# Cheap. Most computers have a parallel port
::# Easy to adapt a printer cable to work with controller
::# High channel count capable with Olsen 595 and Grinch
::* Disadvantages:
::# Distance from computer to first controller limited
::# Voltage on parallel port signals vary greatly from computer to computer
::# In general, only good for On/Off light control
::# Usually on 1 parallel port per computer
::* Controller boards using parallel
::# Olsen 595
::# Grinch
::# Hill320
::# Kit74 relay board
::# Direct connect to SSR

: '''Serial'''
::* Advantages:
::# Cheap. Most computers have a serial port
::# Easy to add more serial ports (USB=>RS232 adapters)
::# Moderate distance from computer to first controller (a cheap RS232=>RS485 adapter increases distance to over 500 feet for Renard's)
::* Disadvantages:
::# Channel count restricted by baud rate (and event interval). Check the wiki for more info
::* Controller boards using serial
::# Renard8
::# Renard16 (Xmus16)
::# Renard24
::# Renard64
::# Firegod

: '''DMX'''
::* Advantages:
::# High channel count (512)
::# Large distance from computer to first controller
::# Compatible with other commercial DMX devices
::* Disadvantages:
::# Requires external device (dongle) for DMX transmission (not always inexpensive)
::* Controller boards using DMX
::# Lynx
::# Lynx Freestyle

== '''Step 6: Determine board availability''' ==

: Most controller boards are available via coops that are held by the designers at various times of the year. Check out the [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=14 Coop Forum] for which boards are currently being coop’d.

: The Grinch and Renard64 boards are available on a regular basis. PM wjohn for current availability and pricing.

: If the board of your choice is not currently available then you might consider doing a home etch of the board yourself. But be aware that not all boards are capable of being home etched.

: You can also ask around and try to locate someone who has a spare board that they might be willing to sell to you.

== '''Step 7: Determine cost of proposed solution''' ==

: Go to the [[Comparison_of_DIY_Boards]] page and calculate an estimate for your tentative solution.

: If the cost figure is within your budget and you are comfortable with it, then press on.

: If the cost figure is higher than you expected, you can either look at another controller to see if a cost savings can be had or you can start all over and redesign your display to match your budget.

::<blockquote>'''''Congratulations!! ''''' If you followed the above steps you should now know exactly which controller board (and how many) you want to build. Now all that is left to do is buy the boards and parts and start building.</blockquote>

'''''Good Luck! And Happy Lighting!'''''

16 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions

2007-10-25T13:40:32Z

Michael: /* Build Steps */

== Overview ==
*Assembly Time: 2 hours
*Skill Level: Medium

== Disclaimer ==
ALL INFORMATION WITHIN THIS DOCUMENT IS PROVIDED "AS IS" AND WITHOUT ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. I DO NOT GUARANTEE ANY INFORMATION IN THIS DOCUMENT IS ACCURATE, AND IT SHOULD BE USED FOR ABSTRACT EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY.

THIS FILE IS DISTRIBUTED IN THE HOPE THAT IT WILL BE USEFUL, BUT WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; WITHOUT EVEN THE IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.

The standard ChristmasWiki [[Disclaimers]] also apply.

== Reference Material ==
=== Tools ===
*Bench Soldering Iron
*Silver Solder
*Flat cut dykes
*Desoldering bulb

=== Other Requirements ===
* You will need an RS232 to RS485 converter. I would suggest [http://www.ebay.com EBAY]

=== Related Documents/Links ===
* [http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-RS232-To-RS485-Data-Communication-Adapter_W0QQitemZ300121293785QQihZ020QQcategoryZ41993QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem RS485 Converter from Ebay]
*[http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16cPicDimmedSSR_Parts_List_Rev1.9.xls Parts List]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmedSSR_Theory_of_Operation_Rev1.9.pdf Theory of Operations]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9.pdf Image of Board]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_TOP.pdf Top of PCB]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_BOTTOM.pdf Botton of PCB]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_SILK.pdf Silk Screen]
* [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=36 Latest PIC Code]

== Build Steps ==
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%"
!align=center |Install Item||align=center|Qty||align=center|Mouser P/N||align=center|Location||Notes
|-
|nowrap|1. IC sockets 6 pin ||align=center|17||align=center|571-3902611||align=center|U3-U19||Make sure they are oriented the same way as the silk screen image. U19 is oriented opposite of the others.
|-
|nowrap|2. IC Sockets 8 Pin||align=center|2||align=center|575-193308||align=center|U20 & U21||.
|-
|nowrap|3. IC Sockets 14 Pin||align=center|2||align=center|575-199314||align=center|U1 & U2||.
|-
|nowrap|4. Bossman Fuse Holder||align=center|4||align=center|504-1a3399-10||align=center|H1 & H2 pads||Make sure the notch on the fuse holder is oriented so one is on the top and the other on the bottom to properly hold the fuse. Consider soldering this with the fuse in place.
|-
|nowrap|5. Euro Sytle Terminal Blocks||align=center|11||align=center|538-398890-0302||align=center|Lower Edge of Board||.
|-
|nowrap|6. 15Kohm resistors||align=center|2||align=center|71-ccf60-15k-e3||align=center|R17 & R18||.
|-
|nowrap|7. 178ohm resistors||align=center|16||align=center|273-178-rc||align=center|R1 - R16||Orient the colored bands all the same way for ease of troubleshooting later.
|-
|nowrap|8. 10pin 680ohm bus resistor||align=center|2||align=center|266-680||align=center|above U7 & U15||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Numbered Photo - Numbers correspond to the build steps
[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR.jpeg]]

|-
|nowrap|9. 2 ping jumper mount||align=center|4||align=center|571-3-644456-2||align=center|J1 - J4||.
|-
|nowrap|10. Green LED||align=center|2||align=center|604-wp7104gt||align=center|Ch2Diag #1 & #2||The short leg of the led goes to the flat side of the silkscreening
|-
|nowrap|11. Monolithic Radial Capacitor||align=center|2||align=center|81-rpee41h105m4k1e12||align=center|C1 & C2||The heat sink for the 5vdc converter comes down on top of this part in C1, so it has to be bent sideways.||.
|-
|nowrap|12. Amp Modular Jacks rj45||align=center|2||align=center|571-5520251-4||Upper Right and Left||.
|-
|nowrap|13. Coated axial ceramic capacitors||align=center|2||align=center|80-c410c104m5u||C3 & C4||.
|-
|nowrap|14. Voltage Regulator||align=center|1||align=center|821-TS7805C2||5vReg||.
|-
|nowrap|15. 8 amp Triac||align=center|16||align=center|511-BTA08-400b||Bottom of board||Be sure to solder these well as they will be carrying 110v A/C. Make sure they are lined up straight so a heat sink can be attached. Consider soldering with a heat sink already attached
|-
|nowrap|16. 1K ohm resistors||align=center|3||align=center|660-mf1/4dc1001f||align=center|R20, R21 & R24||.
|-
|nowrap|17. Crystal Clock oscillator||align=center|1||align=center|520-tck1843-x||align=center|OSC1||.
|-
|nowrap|18. 22k ohm resistor||align=center|3||align=center|660-mf1/4dlt52r2702f||align=center|R19, R22 & R23||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Numbered Photo - Numbers correspond to the build steps
[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR_2.jpeg]]

|-

|nowrap|19. zener diode||align=center|1||align=center|78-in5239b||align=center|D2||.
|-
|nowrap|20. zener diode||align=center|1||align=center|512-1n5229b-t50a||align=center|D1||.
|-
|nowrap|21. 120 ohm resistor||align=center|1||align=center|660-mf1/4dct52r1200f||align=center|R26||.
|-
|nowrap|22. VR/50v diode||align=center|1||align=center|625-1n4001-e3||align=center|D3||.
|-
|nowrap|23. red led||align=center|1||align=center|604-wp7104ec||align=center|Top Center||.
|-
|nowrap|24. H11aa1||align=center|1||align=center|782-h11aa1||align=center|U19||.
|-
|nowrap|25. Rs485||align=center|2||align=center|837-isl81487eip||align=center|U20 & U21||.
|-
|nowrap|26. Pic Chips||align=center|2||align=center|11-11||align=center|#2||.
|-
|nowrap|27. fuses||align=center|2||align=center|504-gma-5||align=center|H1 & H2||.
|-
|nowrap|28. Heat Sink||align=center|1||align=center|532-574502B00||align=center|5vReg||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Here is a picture of the final product

[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR_Final.jpeg]]

|-

|}

== Options ==
=== 240 or 24 volt Conversion ===
The original controller was designed for operation on 110VAC and many of the parts were specified for 110V. The board will operate at other voltages, however a number of changes need to be made.

The first decision to be made is what voltage you want to switch. The triacs are responsible for switching the primary voltage. The is no reason that the primary voltage for the TRIACs could not be 240VAC or 24VAC, however the circuit will need to be modified.

One of the major changes is the ZC detect section of the controller. The original circuit specified a H11AA1 for the optoisolator, with two 15k ohm 1watt resistors for current limiting. Details on the H11AA1 can be found here

[http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/H1%2FH11AA1-M.pdf H11AA1 Datasheet]

I understand that the 15kΩ values are calculated as follows:

I(fwd-peak) = 5mA

V(rms) = 110 VAC RMS

V (peak) = V(rms) * 1.41 = 150VAC

R = V(peak) / I (fwd-peak) = 150V / 0.005 A = 30k ohm Two resistors of 15 k each for a total of 30k.

P = I(peak)(squared) * R = 0.005 * .005 * 15000 / 2 = 0.2W per resistor.

====12VDC switching.====

====12VAC switching.====
The peak voltage for a 12 VAC line is 12 x 1.414 = 17 V, so R = 17 V / 1 A = 17 ohms minimum. At 12VAC, rounded to 22 ohms for a standard value.

====24VAC switching.====

Parts Required and changes.

Gate Resistors - The original value for the gate resistors (item 7) was 180 ohms. For 24VAC operation, the gate resistors need to be changed to 33 ohms.

H11AA1 limiting resistors - These will need to be changed to 3.3k 1/4 watt.

====240VAC switching.====

Parts Required and changes.

Gate Resistors - The original value for the gate resistors (item 7) was 180 ohms. For 240VAC operation, the gate resistors need to be changed to 360 ohms.

H11AA1 limiting resistors - I am going to make a suggestion for the board to operate on 240VAC that will require a number of physical and electrical changes to the ZC circuit on the controller. This modification is designed to use a low voltage transformer to derive the ZC signal from, instead of the 240VAC Hot rail.

1. ''' Fit two R18s to the PCB.''' Now that the PCB has been modified, you need to fit two new R18s, appropriate for the ZC voltage the H1AA1 will be sensing.

2. '''Cutting a track.''' Looking at the copper side of the PCB, you will notice a small track common from the HOT rail to the inside H1AA11 resistor (R18). There are two R18s, and I'll refer to them as Inside and Outside R18s. The Outside R18 is the one closest to the edge of the PCB. (I'll see if I can take a picture of my board.). By cutting this track, the H11AA1 will be floating with reference to the HOT on the TRIAC (240VAC in this example).

3. '''Fitting a jumper wire.''' With the original design, you only needed to connect the White (neutral) to the 2 pole terminal block. The terminal block is located on the right hand side of the PCB, and has a '''N''' and and a '''NC''' marked on the silkscreen overlay. using a short piece of jumper wire, solder a connection between the '''NC''' on the terminal block and the hot side of the Inside R18. This will replace the track you cut in Step 2.

3. ''' Fit two R18s to the PCB.''' Now that the PCB has been modified, you need to fit two new resistors to the ZC circuit. I am going to use a 30VAC CT transformer to power my board (via a Diode rectifier circuit). Taking a tap from the transformer

=== Computer feed/power cable ===
Now you have installed all the parts, the next decision is how you will connect the controller to the PC, and how you will power the board.

The majority of the controller is run from a 5 volt DC regulator that is located on the PCB. The regulator is a 7805, and will provide a regulated 5VDC supply. The input voltage for the controller needs to be at least 9 VDC and no more than 15 VDC.

Checking the datasheet for the 7805, the minimum input voltage must be 2.0V greater than the V(out) = 7.0 V and with the input power diode (1N4001) having a Maximum Instantaneous Forward Voltage Drop of 1.1V, the absolute minimum is 8.1V. However, the system was analyzed with a VOM and a variable output power supply, and to assure 5.0VDC minimum at TP6, it is recommended to stay above 7.5VDC at TP2.

16 Channel Renard with SSR Assembly Instructions

2007-10-25T13:34:30Z

Michael: /* Build Steps */

== Overview ==
*Assembly Time: 2 hours
*Skill Level: Medium

== Disclaimer ==
ALL INFORMATION WITHIN THIS DOCUMENT IS PROVIDED "AS IS" AND WITHOUT ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. I DO NOT GUARANTEE ANY INFORMATION IN THIS DOCUMENT IS ACCURATE, AND IT SHOULD BE USED FOR ABSTRACT EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY.

THIS FILE IS DISTRIBUTED IN THE HOPE THAT IT WILL BE USEFUL, BUT WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; WITHOUT EVEN THE IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.

The standard ChristmasWiki [[Disclaimers]] also apply.

== Reference Material ==
=== Tools ===
*Bench Soldering Iron
*Silver Solder
*Flat cut dykes
*Desoldering bulb

=== Other Requirements ===
* You will need an RS232 to RS485 converter. I would suggest [http://www.ebay.com EBAY]

=== Related Documents/Links ===
* [http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-RS232-To-RS485-Data-Communication-Adapter_W0QQitemZ300121293785QQihZ020QQcategoryZ41993QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem RS485 Converter from Ebay]
*[http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16cPicDimmedSSR_Parts_List_Rev1.9.xls Parts List]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmedSSR_Theory_of_Operation_Rev1.9.pdf Theory of Operations]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9.pdf Image of Board]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_TOP.pdf Top of PCB]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_BOTTOM.pdf Botton of PCB]
* [http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/16CPicDimmerSSR_Rev1.9_SILK.pdf Silk Screen]
* [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=36 Latest PIC Code]

== Build Steps ==
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="100%"
!align=center |Install Item||align=center|Qty||align=center|Mouser P/N||align=center|Location||Notes
|-
|nowrap|1. IC sockets 6 pin ||align=center|17||align=center|571-3902611||align=center|U3-U19||Make sure they are oriented the same way as the silk screen image. U19 is oriented opposite of the others.
|-
|nowrap|2. IC Sockets 8 Pin||align=center|2||align=center|575-193308||align=center|U20 & U21||.
|-
|nowrap|3. IC Sockets 14 Pin||align=center|2||align=center|575-199314||align=center|U1 & U2||.
|-
|nowrap|4. Bossman Fuse Holder||align=center|4||align=center|504-1a3399-10||align=center|H1 & H2 pads||Make sure the notch on the fuse holder is oriented so one is on the top and the other on the bottom to properly hold the fuse.
|-
|nowrap|5. Euro Sytle Terminal Blocks||align=center|11||align=center|538-398890-0302||align=center|Lower Edge of Board||.
|-
|nowrap|6. 15Kohm resistors||align=center|2||align=center|71-ccf60-15k-e3||align=center|R17 & R18||.
|-
|nowrap|7. 178ohm resistors||align=center|16||align=center|273-178-rc||align=center|R1 - R16||Orient the colored bands all the same way for ease of troubleshooting later.
|-
|nowrap|8. 10pin 680ohm bus resistor||align=center|2||align=center|266-680||align=center|above U7 & U15||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Numbered Photo - Numbers correspond to the build steps
[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR.jpeg]]

|-
|nowrap|9. 2 ping jumper mount||align=center|4||align=center|571-3-644456-2||align=center|J1 - J4||.
|-
|nowrap|10. Green LED||align=center|2||align=center|604-wp7104gt||align=center|Ch2Diag #1 & #2||The short leg of the led goes to the flat side of the silkscreening
|-
|nowrap|11. Monolithic Radial Capacitor||align=center|2||align=center|81-rpee41h105m4k1e12||align=center|C1 & C2|The heat sink for the 5vdc converter comes down on top of this part in C1, so it has to be bent sideways.|.
|-
|nowrap|12. Amp Modular Jacks rj45||align=center|2||align=center|571-5520251-4||Upper Right and Left||.
|-
|nowrap|13. Coated axial ceramic capacitors||align=center|2||align=center|80-c410c104m5u||C3 & C4||.
|-
|nowrap|14. Voltage Regulator||align=center|1||align=center|821-TS7805C2||5vReg||.
|-
|nowrap|15. 8 amp Triac||align=center|16||align=center|511-BTA08-400b||Bottom of board||Be sure to solder these well as they will be carrying 110v A/C
|-
|nowrap|16. 1K ohm resistors||align=center|3||align=center|660-mf1/4dc1001f||align=center|R20, R21 & R24||.
|-
|nowrap|17. Crystal Clock oscillator||align=center|1||align=center|520-tck1843-x||align=center|OSC1||.
|-
|nowrap|18. 22k ohm resistor||align=center|3||align=center|660-mf1/4dlt52r2702f||align=center|R19, R22 & R23||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Numbered Photo - Numbers correspond to the build steps
[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR_2.jpeg]]

|-

|nowrap|19. zener diode||align=center|1||align=center|78-in5239b||align=center|D2||.
|-
|nowrap|20. zener diode||align=center|1||align=center|512-1n5229b-t50a||align=center|D1||.
|-
|nowrap|21. 120 ohm resistor||align=center|1||align=center|660-mf1/4dct52r1200f||align=center|R26||.
|-
|nowrap|22. VR/50v diode||align=center|1||align=center|625-1n4001-e3||align=center|D3||.
|-
|nowrap|23. red led||align=center|1||align=center|604-wp7104ec||align=center|Top Center||.
|-
|nowrap|24. H11aa1||align=center|1||align=center|782-h11aa1||align=center|U19||.
|-
|nowrap|25. Rs485||align=center|2||align=center|837-isl81487eip||align=center|U20 & U21||.
|-
|nowrap|26. Pic Chips||align=center|2||align=center|11-11||align=center|#2||.
|-
|nowrap|27. fuses||align=center|2||align=center|504-gma-5||align=center|H1 & H2||.
|-
|nowrap|28. Heat Sink||align=center|1||align=center|532-574502B00||align=center|5vReg||.
|-
| colspan=5 align="center"|Here is a picture of the final product

[[Image:16Channel_Renard_SSR_Final.jpeg]]

|-

|}

== Options ==
=== 240 or 24 volt Conversion ===
The original controller was designed for operation on 110VAC and many of the parts were specified for 110V. The board will operate at other voltages, however a number of changes need to be made.

The first decision to be made is what voltage you want to switch. The triacs are responsible for switching the primary voltage. The is no reason that the primary voltage for the TRIACs could not be 240VAC or 24VAC, however the circuit will need to be modified.

One of the major changes is the ZC detect section of the controller. The original circuit specified a H11AA1 for the optoisolator, with two 15k ohm 1watt resistors for current limiting. Details on the H11AA1 can be found here

[http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/H1%2FH11AA1-M.pdf H11AA1 Datasheet]

I understand that the 15kΩ values are calculated as follows:

I(fwd-peak) = 5mA

V(rms) = 110 VAC RMS

V (peak) = V(rms) * 1.41 = 150VAC

R = V(peak) / I (fwd-peak) = 150V / 0.005 A = 30k ohm Two resistors of 15 k each for a total of 30k.

P = I(peak)(squared) * R = 0.005 * .005 * 15000 / 2 = 0.2W per resistor.

====12VDC switching.====

====12VAC switching.====
The peak voltage for a 12 VAC line is 12 x 1.414 = 17 V, so R = 17 V / 1 A = 17 ohms minimum. At 12VAC, rounded to 22 ohms for a standard value.

====24VAC switching.====

Parts Required and changes.

Gate Resistors - The original value for the gate resistors (item 7) was 180 ohms. For 24VAC operation, the gate resistors need to be changed to 33 ohms.

H11AA1 limiting resistors - These will need to be changed to 3.3k 1/4 watt.

====240VAC switching.====

Parts Required and changes.

Gate Resistors - The original value for the gate resistors (item 7) was 180 ohms. For 240VAC operation, the gate resistors need to be changed to 360 ohms.

H11AA1 limiting resistors - I am going to make a suggestion for the board to operate on 240VAC that will require a number of physical and electrical changes to the ZC circuit on the controller. This modification is designed to use a low voltage transformer to derive the ZC signal from, instead of the 240VAC Hot rail.

1. ''' Fit two R18s to the PCB.''' Now that the PCB has been modified, you need to fit two new R18s, appropriate for the ZC voltage the H1AA1 will be sensing.

2. '''Cutting a track.''' Looking at the copper side of the PCB, you will notice a small track common from the HOT rail to the inside H1AA11 resistor (R18). There are two R18s, and I'll refer to them as Inside and Outside R18s. The Outside R18 is the one closest to the edge of the PCB. (I'll see if I can take a picture of my board.). By cutting this track, the H11AA1 will be floating with reference to the HOT on the TRIAC (240VAC in this example).

3. '''Fitting a jumper wire.''' With the original design, you only needed to connect the White (neutral) to the 2 pole terminal block. The terminal block is located on the right hand side of the PCB, and has a '''N''' and and a '''NC''' marked on the silkscreen overlay. using a short piece of jumper wire, solder a connection between the '''NC''' on the terminal block and the hot side of the Inside R18. This will replace the track you cut in Step 2.

3. ''' Fit two R18s to the PCB.''' Now that the PCB has been modified, you need to fit two new resistors to the ZC circuit. I am going to use a 30VAC CT transformer to power my board (via a Diode rectifier circuit). Taking a tap from the transformer

=== Computer feed/power cable ===
Now you have installed all the parts, the next decision is how you will connect the controller to the PC, and how you will power the board.

The majority of the controller is run from a 5 volt DC regulator that is located on the PCB. The regulator is a 7805, and will provide a regulated 5VDC supply. The input voltage for the controller needs to be at least 9 VDC and no more than 15 VDC.

Checking the datasheet for the 7805, the minimum input voltage must be 2.0V greater than the V(out) = 7.0 V and with the input power diode (1N4001) having a Maximum Instantaneous Forward Voltage Drop of 1.1V, the absolute minimum is 8.1V. However, the system was analyzed with a VOM and a variable output power supply, and to assure 5.0VDC minimum at TP6, it is recommended to stay above 7.5VDC at TP2.