http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Dlovelydoityourselfchristmas.com - User contributions [en]2026-05-03T21:18:35ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.43.1http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Bridge&diff=12840E1.31 Bridge2018-06-27T11:38:44Z<p>Dlovely: /* Programming the EEPROM */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:E1_31Bridge.png|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==<br />
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that allows your PC to communicate with a large number of Renard or DMX controllers using regular Ethernet network connections. It replaces multiple DMX or RS485 dongles with one configurable device that can be mounted in an enclosure in the yard and only requires one Ethernet Cat5 cable (or WIFI) back to your pc or home network. It allows up to 6 DMX universes or Renard networks to be easily controlled from your sequencing software with a minimum amount of wire from your show pc to your controllers. The bridge works with all Renard, DMX and LOR (using DMX) controllers.<br />
<br />
[[File:E131bridgelayout1.png |800px]]<br />
<br />
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is a method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently supports multicast and unicast streams. Multicast makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 63,999 DMX streams or 'universes' (64000->65536 are reserved) so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.<br />
<br />
The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.<br />
<br />
The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support either a "standard" DMX RJ-45 electrical output or a Renard electrical output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.<br />
<br />
==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==<br />
<br />
As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.<br />
<br />
Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.<br />
<br />
The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.<br />
<br />
For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.<br />
<br />
==E1.31 Networking Basics and Setup==<br />
For more information about how E1.31 works and how you wire up the IP networking side of an E1.31 Network look at <u>[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol| E1.31 Protocol]]</u><br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==<br />
To build the E1.31 Bridge, you need 4 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
# A [[E1.31_Bridge#Power|power supply]] to power the board. The board can use any 5-24VDC power supply.<br />
# An [[Enclosures|enclosure]] to mount the finished board in. Commonly used enclosures include the [[Enclosures#CG-500_.28CableGuard_500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-500]], [[Enclosures#CG-1000_.28CableGuard_1000_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure|CG-1000]] or the [[Enclosures#CG-1500_.28CableGuard_1500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-2000]] which are available from several [[Enclosures#Vendors|vendors]]<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1-R3</td><td>291-220-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 220ohms 0.05 </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R4-R9</td><td> 291-120-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 120ohms 0.05 </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R10-R12</td><td>291-10K-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 0.05 </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C1-C3</td><td> 140-REA470M1VBK0611P </td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 35V 47uF 20% 6.3x11mm </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C4-C12</td><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U </td><td>9</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC1</td><td>619-P8X32A-D40 </td><td>32-bit Microcontrollers - MCU DIP pkg Propeller Chip </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC2</td><td>579-24LC512-I/P </td><td>EEPROM 64kx8 - 2.5V </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC3-IC8</td><td>511-ST485BN </td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC9</td><td>579-24AA025E48-I/SN </td><td>EEPROM 2K 256 X 8 1.8V SERIAL EE, IND </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>X1</td><td>520-HCU500-20X </td><td>Crystals 5MHz 20pF </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Wiznet</td><td>950-WIZ820IO </td><td>Ethernet Modules W5200 & MAG JACK ioPLATFORM MODULE</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED1</td><td>604-WP7113GD </td><td>604-WP7113GD </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED2-LED3</td><td>604-WP7113ID </td><td> Standard LEDs - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>VR1</td><td>580-OKI78SR5/1.5W36C </td><td>DC/DC Converters 7.5W 24Vin 5Vout1 1.5A SIP Non-Iso </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>VR2</td><td>511-LF33CV </td><td>Low Dropout Regulators - LDO 3.3V 0.5A Positive </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Heatsink</td><td> 532-577202B00 </td><td>Heat Sinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>S1-S2</td><td>653-B3F-1000 </td><td>Tactile Switches 6X6 Flat 4.3mm Btn Force 100g w/o Grd </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 1</td><td>575-199640 </td><td> IC & Component Sockets 40P TIN PIN TIN CONT </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 2 - IC Socket 8</td><td>575-1104331610003000 </td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P DIP SOCKET SOCKETS </td><td>7</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>JP1</td><td>571-826629-3 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 3P SINGLE ROW </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>H1</td><td>571-826629-4 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 4P SINGLE ROW </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Wiznet 1x6 Header</td><td>517-9601066202AR </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 6P STR SR BDMNT SKT 3.0MM TAIL/7.1MMBODY </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>2x3 Output Selector</td><td> 855-M20-9980345 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 03+03 DIL VERTICAL PIN HEADER GOLD HT </td><td>12</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>TB1</td><td>571-2828372 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>J1-J6</td><td>571-5556416-1 </td><td>571-5556416-1 </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Output Shunts</td><td>517-9691020000DA </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2.54MM SHUNT </td><td>25</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=25f7a37aed Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==<br />
<br />
The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:E1_31Bridge.png|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#:[[File:E131bridgepcb.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> '''README: DO NOT install the MAC address IC unless you have a Prop Plug to load version 4.02 or greater.''' Install the MAC IC (IC9), this is the only surface mount IC. It is optional if you are not comfortable with soldering surface mount ICs. The firmware will generate a random MAC ID if the IC is not installed. The IC is polarized and the IC must be installed so that the dot on the package aligns with the dot on the pcb, the lower right side of the pad. For hints on how to solder a SMT device look [https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/General/SolderingBasics.pdf here].<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the nine 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 220 Ohm resistors (red, red, brown, gold) R1-R3. The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six 120 Ohm resistors (brown, red, brown, gold) R4-R9. The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 10K Ohm resistors (brown, black, orange, gold) R10-R12 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1. The crystal is not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two push button switches S1-S2. The switches are polarized and will only fit on the board one way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the seven 8 pin IC sockets. The sockets are polarized and have a notch on one end. It should be mounted so that the notch is oriented to the left and matching the marking on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the one 40 pin socket. The sockets are polarized and have a notch on one end. It should be mounted so that the notch is oriented to the right and matching the marking on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the green ACT LED (LED1). Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board. Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two red STATUS and POWER LEDs (LED2-LED3). Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board. Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink. The voltage regulator is polarized and goes only one way. Gently bend the leads of the regulator at the location on the leads where it changes size down at a 90 degree angle towards the flat side of the regulator. Apply thermal grease to the flat heat sink side of the regulator and the heatsink and fasten it to the pcb using a #4 screw and nut.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 3 Pin headers JP1. The short end of the header is soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 4 Pin headers H1. The short end of the header is soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the twelve 2x3 output selector pin headers. The short end of the headers are soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-14.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the power terminal block TB1. Install so that the wire openings face the edge of the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-15.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3. The capacitors are polarized and can only be installed one way. The side of the capacitor will have a stripe on the negative side. The long lead is the positive side, and it goes in the hole marked with a + to the right.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-16.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the DC-DC Converter VR1. The voltage regulator is polarized and must only be installed one way. The flat side of the voltage regulator must be mounted towards the bottom of the board, aligning with the stripe on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-17.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6. The jacks are polarized and they have to be installed with the correct orientation. Gently install all 8 pins into the holes and them firmly press down on the socket to seat the plastic pins in the holes in the PCB. <br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-18.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the left edge with the power terminal block.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-19.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the left edge with the power terminal block.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-20.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter to the right.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-21.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the WizNet adapter with the '''RJ45 socket facing the Propeller IC.''' <br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-22.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> On initial power up and test perform a Hard Reset to initialize the settings. To do a hard reset Press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button. The ACT LED will flash a status code, after the ACT LED flashes 10 times, release the MODE button. This will wipe all device configuration settings and reset them to the default factory settings and will force the generation of a new random [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address MAC ID] for the unit if the MAC ID chip (IC 9) is not installed on the board.<br />
#:[[File:E1 31Bridge Reset.png|300px]]<br />
<br />
H2 will be unpopulated as it is for future expansion.<br />
<br />
<br />
Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.<br />
<br />
====Power Jumper - JP1====<br />
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).<br />
<br />
You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.<br />
<br />
====Output Configuration Jumpers====<br />
[[file:E1_31Bridge_REN.png |400px]]<br />
[[File:E1_31Bridge_REN_Zoom.png |300px]]<br />
<br />
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. These jumpers set the wiring configuration on their respective output jacks. If you want a DMX wiring output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard wiring output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. '''It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output. You must set the DMX or Renard output protocol via the Bridge configuration settings.'''<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Output Jumper Settings'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #'''<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''RJ45 Connectors'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''REN'''<br />
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''DMX'''<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA+ <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA-<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA- <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA+ <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the software protocol for DMX and use the REN output jumper settings. You will be required build a jumper cable to swap pins 4 and 5 between the two ends of the jumper because LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.<br />
<br />
==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least 350 mA. Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
===Power up LED Activity===<br />
On initial power up the green ACT and the red STATUS LEDs flash a sequence of codes to help identify the status and configuration of the bridge. After they go thru their startup flash sequence, the the green ACT LED flashes when ever it sees IP data traffic and the red LED stays lit to signify that the configuration webpage is accessible. The Green ACT LED startup flash pattern are:<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Green ACT LED<br/>Startup Flash Count'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''# of Flashes'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="600" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| IP Status<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is DHCP<br/> and the bridge acquired an IP address from a DHCP server.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is STATIC<br/> and the STATIC address programmed into the bridge is being used.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the bridge has acquired an IP address from a DHCP server. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the STATIC address programmed into the bridge is being used. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is DHCP and has been overridden due to no response from the DHCP server<br/> and the IP address of 169.254.74.73 is being used. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the IP address of 169.254.74.73 is being used due to the lack of response from a DHCP server.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Programming the EEPROM==<br />
The EEPROM ships from DIYLedexpress with the firmware installed. If you buy the parts from another vendor, or you want to update the firmware to a later version, you must have a PropPlug programming tool.<br />
<br />
'''The current version of the firmware is v4.04 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=39706&d=1527299383 here].'''<br />
<br />
4.04<br />
* Timing fix for WS2811 pixels.<br />
<br />
4.03<br />
* Supported WS2811 timings of varying production runs.<br />
<br />
4.02<br />
* Fix for new MAC address IC's.<br />
<br />
4.01<br />
* Test patterns (All Red, Green, or Blue, and a Red, Green or Blue chase)<br />
* Timeout feature that will turn off all channels if the bridge has not received any data on any listening universe for 1-60 minutes<br />
<br />
4.00<br />
* WS2811 Pixel Support<br />
* GECE Pixel Support<br />
* Web Firmware Updates - Update the Firmware without a Prop Plug, this is done with a lightweight Java application.<br />
* Real Time Parameter Updates - Change RGB order, Start Universe, Total number of channels and even the Protocol on the fly without rebooting!<br />
* RGB Reordering - Reorders sets of three channels for all supported protocols.<br />
<br />
<br />
Past Versions:<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=567&d=1445118357 4.02].<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24934&d=1412041008 4.01]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24935&d=1412041109 4.00]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20701&d=1381775613 3.04]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20122&d=1377871931 3.03]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19341&d=1369505188 2.06]<br />
<br />
The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it.<br><br />
<br />
===Programming Tools Required===<br />
The Propeller processor uses a different programming interface then the usual PICKIT2 or PICKIT3 device used to program the Renard PICS with their firmware. You can not use a PICKIT 2 or PICKIT3 to load the E1.31 bridge firmware. '''The recommended way to load the firmware in the E1.31 bridge is to use the PropPlug.'''<br><br />
====PropPlug====<br />
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]]<br><br />
You can buy a PropPlug from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=161 DIYLEDExpress] (Limited Stock) or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/product/32201 Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser].<br />
<br />
====Build your own Programming Interface====<br />
If you do not have access to a PropPlug, but you do have a PC with a true serial port, it is possible to build a simple interface to program the E1.31 bridge using simple common parts you can find from many vendors. However, the low cost PropPlug with it's USB interface works best on most modern computers.<br/><br />
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===How To Install the Firmware Programming===<br />
<br />
* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/downloads/propeller-tool-software Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.<br />
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes. <br />
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file. <br />
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex' <br />
* Connect the PropPlug to the PC and the PCB making sure that the plug is oriented correctly to match the markings on the pcb. <br />
* Make sure the PCB is powered ON<br />
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.<br />
<br />
==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==<br />
In order to use your E1.31 Bridge, you must install and configure the software on your pc to allow your sequencing software to speak E1.31 protocol to the bridge. Click on the following links for instructions for:<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_Vixen|Vixen]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_LOR_S3|LOR S3]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_HLS|HLS]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_LightShowPro_.28LSP.29|LSP]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Configuring the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
Once the bridge has been built and passed preliminary tests, it must be configured to operate. The configuration can be done when the bridge is connected directly to the PC or to the home network. The configuration page can be accessed via the default IP address of the controller via the browser of your choice. '''The default IP address of the bridge is 192.168.1.206''' Open up your browser and enter http://192.168.1.206 and the setup page for the bridge will appear in the browser. '''If you have changed the default IP address of the bridge, you must use that address to access the setup screen.'''<br />
<br />
===IP Address Configuration===<br />
The default IP address and mode of the bridge when initially setup is 192.168.1.206 and is a static IP address. This can be later changed thru the web interface to what ever network address you need. '''Note that all E1.31 bridges and the E682 Pixel controller all use this default IP address, so if you have multiple devices on the same network, you must change the static address of the units to avoid a conflict.'''<br />
<br />
====Temporary Manual Address Overide====<br />
When you are troubleshooting the E1,31 bridge, it is possible to force the IP address of the unit to use another setting by using the MODE and RESET buttons at power up. If you press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button you can temporarily change the IP address mode. You must release the MODE button after the correct number of flashes listed below to activate that mode.<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Green ACT LED<br/>Overide Flash Count'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''# of Flashes'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="600" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Temporary Overide IP Status<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| No Change.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The last saved STATIC IP address is enabled<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| DHCP IP address is enabled.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware Version 3.x+ Configuration==<br />
[[File:BridgeConfigPage.png]]<br />
<br />
===System Settings===<br />
[[File:SystemSettings.png]]<br />
<br />
IP Mode: Sets Static or DHCP IP address Mode<br/><br />
IP Address: The IP Address of the Bridge<br/><br />
Subnet Mask: The Subnet Mask of the Bridge<br/><br />
Gateway: The Gateway Address<br/><br />
MAC Address: The MAC Address of the MAC IC or Auto generated MAC Address<br/><br />
Mode: Sets the Bridge in Multicast or Unicast Mode<br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to any of the settings above click "Update System Settings" to save these setting.<br />
<br />
===Universe Settings===<br />
[[File:UniverseNumbers.png]]<br />
<br />
Universe Number: Defines the Universe numbers the Bridge will use, 6 are available in Multicast Mode (Unusable ones are grayed out) and 12 are available in Unicast Mode. All numbers should be unique.<br/><br />
Packets Received: The number of packages received on this universe.<br/><br />
DMX Channel Count: The number of channels sent in the E1.31 Universe packet.<br/><br />
Sequence Errors: The number of out of order packets received. NOTE: There is a bug in some of the transmitting E1.31 plugins where sequence numbers are not sequential per Universe. <br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to the Universe numbers above click "Update Universe Numbers" to save these setting.<br />
<br />
===Output Configuration===<br />
[[File:OutputConfiguration.png]]<br />
<br />
Output Number: The output jack number.<br/><br />
Protocol: The Protocol used for the output.<br/><br />
Baud (Renard Only): Sets the Renard Output Serial Baud Rate.<br/><br />
Options (Renard Only): Defines the output formate, Normally use 8N1, 8M2 is for solving issues with higher channel counts for RenW setups.<br/><br />
Channels: The number of channels on this output. (Note DMX has a max of 512 Channels)<br/><br />
Start Universe: Define the universe number of the starting channel.<br/><br />
Start Channel: The starting channel for this output.<br/><br />
End Universe: Auto calculated ending Universe Number.<br/><br />
End Channel: Auto calculated ending Channel Number.<br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to each output number click "Update" to save the changes for that output.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Version 2.x Configuration Commands==<br />
Once you access the E1.31 webpage you can configure the device settings via a command line interface (original firmware) or via a webpage drop down menu (beta firmware). In the command line interface, all commands are entered on the command line and are temporary until saved. It is critical to follow all command line changes with the "SAVE 0" command to ensure your updates are saved in the device. You must then reboot the E1.31 bridge to make the changes take effect by either hitting the RESET button, or entering "BOOT 999" . <br />
<br />
===Save===<br />
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page<br />
<br />
===Load===<br />
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.<br />
<br />
===Boot===<br />
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!<br />
<br />
===IP===<br />
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address.<br />
<br />
This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.<br />
<br />
===Subnet===<br />
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.<br />
<br />
This should also match the subnet mask of your PC Ethernet port since it is normally on the same subnet. This is typically 255.255.255.0 or 24 bits.<br />
<br />
===Gateway===<br />
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router. <br />
<br />
===DNS===<br />
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router. <br />
<br><br />
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused. <br />
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration <br />
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation. <br />
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect <br />
what happens when the system starts up. <br />
<br />
===Default===<br />
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1.<br />
<br />
DE 0 sets the addressing mode to a static or fixed IPv4 network address that is configured with the commands above. DE 1 sets the addressing mode to DHCP - you must have a working DHCP server on your network for the bridge to get an address. It is highly recommended to use a static IP address for the bridge so that you always know where to find it on the network.<br />
<br />
===Universe===<br />
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.<br />
<br />
===Protocol===<br />
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD.<br><br />
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.<br />
<br />
===Baud===<br />
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.<br />
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when<br />
the DMX protocol is selected.<br><br />
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6<br />
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.<br />
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at<br />
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.<br />
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.<br />
<br />
===Mode===<br />
"MOde" n Where n is 0 for Multicast or 1 for Unicast<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the bridge and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the bridge to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
If you are using the +5vdc option (EXT), you need to make some measurements of the 3.3v regulator or VR2.<br />
<br />
Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 5v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 3.3v regulator and power jumper and check again.<br />
<br />
Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 3.3v - if it is much above 3.3v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 3.3v regulator.<br />
<br />
If you are using the +7-24vdc option (INT), you need to make some measurements of the 5.0v regulator or VR1.<br />
<br />
Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 7-24v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 5.0v regulator and power jumper and check again.<br />
<br />
Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 5.0v - if it is much above 5.0v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 5.0v regulator. Another option is a bad 3.3v regulator. If possible, try a +5v supply with the EXT setting and determine if the 3.3v supply is OK using the measurements above. If it is, then you know the 3.3v regulator is OK. If this is not possible, remove the 3.3v regulator and measure the 5.0v regulator output again. If it is 5.0v as it should be, then the 3.3v regulator was bad and needs to be replaced.<br />
<br />
==Hardware Reset==<br />
===SOFT RESET===<br />
By pressing and releasing the RESET button, you can force a soft reboot of the E1.31 bridge and it will restart with all of the programmed parameters that you have configured the device to. This is a non destructive reboot and all settings remain intact after the reboot.<br />
<br />
===HARD RESET===<br />
It is possible to do a hard reset and erase all of the configured parameters in the E1.31 bridge and return it back to the factory default settings. To do the hard reset and lose all of your settings and return the device to the factory settings: Press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button. The ACT LED will flash a status code, after the ACT LED flashes 10 times, release the MODE button. This will wipe all device configuration settings and reset them to the default factory settings and will force the generation of a new random [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address MAC ID] for the unit if the MAC ID chip (IC 9) is not installed on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:E1.31]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Bridge&diff=12605E1.31 Bridge2017-11-24T14:43:29Z<p>Dlovely: /* Programming the EEPROM */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:E1_31Bridge.png|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==<br />
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that allows your PC to communicate with a large number of Renard or DMX controllers using regular Ethernet network connections. It replaces multiple DMX or RS485 dongles with one configurable device that can be mounted in an enclosure in the yard and only requires one Ethernet Cat5 cable (or WIFI) back to your pc or home network. It allows up to 6 DMX universes or Renard networks to be easily controlled from your sequencing software with a minimum amount of wire from your show pc to your controllers. The bridge works with all Renard, DMX and LOR (using DMX) controllers.<br />
<br />
[[File:E131bridgelayout1.png |800px]]<br />
<br />
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is a method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently supports multicast and unicast streams. Multicast makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 63,999 DMX streams or 'universes' (64000->65536 are reserved) so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.<br />
<br />
The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.<br />
<br />
The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support either a "standard" DMX RJ-45 electrical output or a Renard electrical output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.<br />
<br />
==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==<br />
<br />
As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.<br />
<br />
Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.<br />
<br />
The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.<br />
<br />
For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.<br />
<br />
==E1.31 Networking Basics and Setup==<br />
For more information about how E1.31 works and how you wire up the IP networking side of an E1.31 Network look at <u>[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol| E1.31 Protocol]]</u><br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==<br />
To build the E1.31 Bridge, you need 4 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
# A [[E1.31_Bridge#Power|power supply]] to power the board. The board can use any 5-24VDC power supply.<br />
# An [[Enclosures|enclosure]] to mount the finished board in. Commonly used enclosures include the [[Enclosures#CG-500_.28CableGuard_500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-500]], [[Enclosures#CG-1000_.28CableGuard_1000_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure|CG-1000]] or the [[Enclosures#CG-1500_.28CableGuard_1500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-2000]] which are available from several [[Enclosures#Vendors|vendors]]<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1-R3</td><td>291-220-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 220ohms 0.05 </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R4-R9</td><td> 291-120-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 120ohms 0.05 </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R10-R12</td><td>291-10K-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 0.05 </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C1-C3</td><td> 140-REA470M1VBK0611P </td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 35V 47uF 20% 6.3x11mm </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C4-C12</td><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U </td><td>9</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC1</td><td>619-P8X32A-D40 </td><td>32-bit Microcontrollers - MCU DIP pkg Propeller Chip </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC2</td><td>579-24LC512-I/P </td><td>EEPROM 64kx8 - 2.5V </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC3-IC8</td><td>511-ST485BN </td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC9</td><td>579-24AA025E48-I/SN </td><td>EEPROM 2K 256 X 8 1.8V SERIAL EE, IND </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>X1</td><td>520-HCU500-20X </td><td>Crystals 5MHz 20pF </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Wiznet</td><td>950-WIZ820IO </td><td>Ethernet Modules W5200 & MAG JACK ioPLATFORM MODULE</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED1</td><td>604-WP7113GD </td><td>604-WP7113GD </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED2-LED3</td><td>604-WP7113ID </td><td> Standard LEDs - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>VR1</td><td>580-OKI78SR5/1.5W36C </td><td>DC/DC Converters 7.5W 24Vin 5Vout1 1.5A SIP Non-Iso </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>VR2</td><td>511-LF33CV </td><td>Low Dropout Regulators - LDO 3.3V 0.5A Positive </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Heatsink</td><td> 532-577202B00 </td><td>Heat Sinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>S1-S2</td><td>653-B3F-1000 </td><td>Tactile Switches 6X6 Flat 4.3mm Btn Force 100g w/o Grd </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 1</td><td>575-199640 </td><td> IC & Component Sockets 40P TIN PIN TIN CONT </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 2 - IC Socket 8</td><td>575-1104331610003000 </td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P DIP SOCKET SOCKETS </td><td>7</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>JP1</td><td>571-826629-3 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 3P SINGLE ROW </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>H1</td><td>571-826629-4 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 4P SINGLE ROW </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Wiznet 1x6 Header</td><td>517-9601066202AR </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 6P STR SR BDMNT SKT 3.0MM TAIL/7.1MMBODY </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>2x3 Output Selector</td><td> 855-M20-9980345 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 03+03 DIL VERTICAL PIN HEADER GOLD HT </td><td>12</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>TB1</td><td>571-2828372 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>J1-J6</td><td>571-5556416-1 </td><td>571-5556416-1 </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Output Shunts</td><td>517-9691020000DA </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2.54MM SHUNT </td><td>25</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=25f7a37aed Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==<br />
<br />
The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:E1_31Bridge.png|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#:[[File:E131bridgepcb.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> '''README: DO NOT install the MAC address IC unless you have a Prop Plug to load version 4.02 or greater.''' Install the MAC IC (IC9), this is the only surface mount IC. It is optional if you are not comfortable with soldering surface mount ICs. The firmware will generate a random MAC ID if the IC is not installed. The IC is polarized and the IC must be installed so that the dot on the package aligns with the dot on the pcb, the lower right side of the pad. For hints on how to solder a SMT device look [https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/General/SolderingBasics.pdf here].<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the nine 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 220 Ohm resistors (red, red, brown, gold) R1-R3. The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six 120 Ohm resistors (brown, red, brown, gold) R4-R9. The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 10K Ohm resistors (brown, black, orange, gold) R10-R12 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1. The crystal is not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two push button switches S1-S2. The switches are polarized and will only fit on the board one way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the seven 8 pin IC sockets. The sockets are polarized and have a notch on one end. It should be mounted so that the notch is oriented to the left and matching the marking on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the one 40 pin socket. The sockets are polarized and have a notch on one end. It should be mounted so that the notch is oriented to the right and matching the marking on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the green ACT LED (LED1). Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board. Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two red STATUS and POWER LEDs (LED2-LED3). Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board. Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink. The voltage regulator is polarized and goes only one way. Gently bend the leads of the regulator at the location on the leads where it changes size down at a 90 degree angle towards the flat side of the regulator. Apply thermal grease to the flat heat sink side of the regulator and the heatsink and fasten it to the pcb using a #4 screw and nut.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 3 Pin headers JP1. The short end of the header is soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 4 Pin headers H1. The short end of the header is soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the twelve 2x3 output selector pin headers. The short end of the headers are soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-14.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the power terminal block TB1. Install so that the wire openings face the edge of the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-15.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3. The capacitors are polarized and can only be installed one way. The side of the capacitor will have a stripe on the negative side. The long lead is the positive side, and it goes in the hole marked with a + to the right.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-16.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the DC-DC Converter VR1. The voltage regulator is polarized and must only be installed one way. The flat side of the voltage regulator must be mounted towards the bottom of the board, aligning with the stripe on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-17.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6. The jacks are polarized and they have to be installed with the correct orientation. Gently install all 8 pins into the holes and them firmly press down on the socket to seat the plastic pins in the holes in the PCB. <br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-18.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the left edge with the power terminal block.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-19.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the left edge with the power terminal block.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-20.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter to the right.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-21.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the WizNet adapter with the '''RJ45 socket facing the Propeller IC.''' <br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-22.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> On initial power up and test perform a Hard Reset to initialize the settings. To do a hard reset Press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button. The ACT LED will flash a status code, after the ACT LED flashes 10 times, release the MODE button. This will wipe all device configuration settings and reset them to the default factory settings and will force the generation of a new random [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address MAC ID] for the unit if the MAC ID chip (IC 9) is not installed on the board.<br />
#:[[File:E1 31Bridge Reset.png|300px]]<br />
<br />
H2 will be unpopulated as it is for future expansion.<br />
<br />
<br />
Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.<br />
<br />
====Power Jumper - JP1====<br />
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).<br />
<br />
You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.<br />
<br />
====Output Configuration Jumpers====<br />
[[file:E1_31Bridge_REN.png |400px]]<br />
[[File:E1_31Bridge_REN_Zoom.png |300px]]<br />
<br />
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. These jumpers set the wiring configuration on their respective output jacks. If you want a DMX wiring output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard wiring output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. '''It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output. You must set the DMX or Renard output protocol via the Bridge configuration settings.'''<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Output Jumper Settings'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #'''<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''RJ45 Connectors'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''REN'''<br />
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''DMX'''<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA+ <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA-<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA- <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA+ <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the software protocol for DMX and use the REN output jumper settings. You will be required build a jumper cable to swap pins 4 and 5 between the two ends of the jumper because LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.<br />
<br />
==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least 350 mA. Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
===Power up LED Activity===<br />
On initial power up the green ACT and the red STATUS LEDs flash a sequence of codes to help identify the status and configuration of the bridge. After they go thru their startup flash sequence, the the green ACT LED flashes when ever it sees IP data traffic and the red LED stays lit to signify that the configuration webpage is accessible. The Green ACT LED startup flash pattern are:<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Green ACT LED<br/>Startup Flash Count'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''# of Flashes'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="600" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| IP Status<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is DHCP<br/> and the bridge acquired an IP address from a DHCP server.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is STATIC<br/> and the STATIC address programmed into the bridge is being used.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the bridge has acquired an IP address from a DHCP server. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the STATIC address programmed into the bridge is being used. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is DHCP and has been overridden due to no response from the DHCP server<br/> and the IP address of 169.254.74.73 is being used. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the IP address of 169.254.74.73 is being used due to the lack of response from a DHCP server.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Programming the EEPROM==<br />
The EEPROM ships from DIYLedexpress with the firmware installed. If you buy the parts from another vendor, or you want to update the firmware to a later version, you must have a PropPlug programming tool.<br />
<br />
'''The current version of the firmware is v4.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38421&d=1511534427 here].'''<br />
<br />
See [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?49116-Pixel-Extender&p=480820#post480820 this] post for different timings.<br />
<br />
4.03<br />
* Supported WS2811 timings of varying production runs.<br />
<br />
4.02<br />
* Fix for new MAC address IC's.<br />
<br />
4.01<br />
* Test patterns (All Red, Green, or Blue, and a Red, Green or Blue chase)<br />
* Timeout feature that will turn off all channels if the bridge has not received any data on any listening universe for 1-60 minutes<br />
<br />
4.00<br />
* WS2811 Pixel Support<br />
* GECE Pixel Support<br />
* Web Firmware Updates - Update the Firmware without a Prop Plug, this is done with a lightweight Java application.<br />
* Real Time Parameter Updates - Change RGB order, Start Universe, Total number of channels and even the Protocol on the fly without rebooting!<br />
* RGB Reordering - Reorders sets of three channels for all supported protocols.<br />
<br />
<br />
Past Versions:<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=567&d=1445118357 4.02].<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24934&d=1412041008 4.01]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24935&d=1412041109 4.00]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20701&d=1381775613 3.04]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20122&d=1377871931 3.03]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19341&d=1369505188 2.06]<br />
<br />
The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it.<br><br />
<br />
===Programming Tools Required===<br />
The Propeller processor uses a different programming interface then the usual PICKIT2 or PICKIT3 device used to program the Renard PICS with their firmware. You can not use a PICKIT 2 or PICKIT3 to load the E1.31 bridge firmware. '''The recommended way to load the firmware in the E1.31 bridge is to use the PropPlug.'''<br><br />
====PropPlug====<br />
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]]<br><br />
You can buy a PropPlug from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=161 DIYLEDExpress] (Limited Stock) or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/product/32201 Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser].<br />
<br />
====Build your own Programming Interface====<br />
If you do not have access to a PropPlug, but you do have a PC with a true serial port, it is possible to build a simple interface to program the E1.31 bridge using simple common parts you can find from many vendors. However, the low cost PropPlug with it's USB interface works best on most modern computers.<br/><br />
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===How To Install the Firmware Programming===<br />
<br />
* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/downloads/propeller-tool-software Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.<br />
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes. <br />
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file. <br />
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex' <br />
* Connect the PropPlug to the PC and the PCB making sure that the plug is oriented correctly to match the markings on the pcb. <br />
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.<br />
<br />
==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==<br />
In order to use your E1.31 Bridge, you must install and configure the software on your pc to allow your sequencing software to speak E1.31 protocol to the bridge. Click on the following links for instructions for:<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_Vixen|Vixen]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_LOR_S3|LOR S3]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_HLS|HLS]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_LightShowPro_.28LSP.29|LSP]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Configuring the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
Once the bridge has been built and passed preliminary tests, it must be configured to operate. The configuration can be done when the bridge is connected directly to the PC or to the home network. The configuration page can be accessed via the default IP address of the controller via the browser of your choice. '''The default IP address of the bridge is 192.168.1.206''' Open up your browser and enter http://192.168.1.206 and the setup page for the bridge will appear in the browser. '''If you have changed the default IP address of the bridge, you must use that address to access the setup screen.'''<br />
<br />
===IP Address Configuration===<br />
The default IP address and mode of the bridge when initially setup is 192.168.1.206 and is a static IP address. This can be later changed thru the web interface to what ever network address you need. '''Note that all E1.31 bridges and the E682 Pixel controller all use this default IP address, so if you have multiple devices on the same network, you must change the static address of the units to avoid a conflict.'''<br />
<br />
====Temporary Manual Address Overide====<br />
When you are troubleshooting the E1,31 bridge, it is possible to force the IP address of the unit to use another setting by using the MODE and RESET buttons at power up. If you press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button you can temporarily change the IP address mode. You must release the MODE button after the correct number of flashes listed below to activate that mode.<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Green ACT LED<br/>Overide Flash Count'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''# of Flashes'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="600" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Temporary Overide IP Status<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| No Change.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The last saved STATIC IP address is enabled<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| DHCP IP address is enabled.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware Version 3.x+ Configuration==<br />
[[File:BridgeConfigPage.png]]<br />
<br />
===System Settings===<br />
[[File:SystemSettings.png]]<br />
<br />
IP Mode: Sets Static or DHCP IP address Mode<br/><br />
IP Address: The IP Address of the Bridge<br/><br />
Subnet Mask: The Subnet Mask of the Bridge<br/><br />
Gateway: The Gateway Address<br/><br />
MAC Address: The MAC Address of the MAC IC or Auto generated MAC Address<br/><br />
Mode: Sets the Bridge in Multicast or Unicast Mode<br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to any of the settings above click "Update System Settings" to save these setting.<br />
<br />
===Universe Settings===<br />
[[File:UniverseNumbers.png]]<br />
<br />
Universe Number: Defines the Universe numbers the Bridge will use, 6 are available in Multicast Mode (Unusable ones are grayed out) and 12 are available in Unicast Mode. All numbers should be unique.<br/><br />
Packets Received: The number of packages received on this universe.<br/><br />
DMX Channel Count: The number of channels sent in the E1.31 Universe packet.<br/><br />
Sequence Errors: The number of out of order packets received. NOTE: There is a bug in some of the transmitting E1.31 plugins where sequence numbers are not sequential per Universe. <br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to the Universe numbers above click "Update Universe Numbers" to save these setting.<br />
<br />
===Output Configuration===<br />
[[File:OutputConfiguration.png]]<br />
<br />
Output Number: The output jack number.<br/><br />
Protocol: The Protocol used for the output.<br/><br />
Baud (Renard Only): Sets the Renard Output Serial Baud Rate.<br/><br />
Options (Renard Only): Defines the output formate, Normally use 8N1, 8M2 is for solving issues with higher channel counts for RenW setups.<br/><br />
Channels: The number of channels on this output. (Note DMX has a max of 512 Channels)<br/><br />
Start Universe: Define the universe number of the starting channel.<br/><br />
Start Channel: The starting channel for this output.<br/><br />
End Universe: Auto calculated ending Universe Number.<br/><br />
End Channel: Auto calculated ending Channel Number.<br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to each output number click "Update" to save the changes for that output.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Version 2.x Configuration Commands==<br />
Once you access the E1.31 webpage you can configure the device settings via a command line interface (original firmware) or via a webpage drop down menu (beta firmware). In the command line interface, all commands are entered on the command line and are temporary until saved. It is critical to follow all command line changes with the "SAVE 0" command to ensure your updates are saved in the device. You must then reboot the E1.31 bridge to make the changes take effect by either hitting the RESET button, or entering "BOOT 999" . <br />
<br />
===Save===<br />
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page<br />
<br />
===Load===<br />
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.<br />
<br />
===Boot===<br />
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!<br />
<br />
===IP===<br />
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address.<br />
<br />
This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.<br />
<br />
===Subnet===<br />
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.<br />
<br />
This should also match the subnet mask of your PC Ethernet port since it is normally on the same subnet. This is typically 255.255.255.0 or 24 bits.<br />
<br />
===Gateway===<br />
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router. <br />
<br />
===DNS===<br />
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router. <br />
<br><br />
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused. <br />
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration <br />
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation. <br />
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect <br />
what happens when the system starts up. <br />
<br />
===Default===<br />
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1.<br />
<br />
DE 0 sets the addressing mode to a static or fixed IPv4 network address that is configured with the commands above. DE 1 sets the addressing mode to DHCP - you must have a working DHCP server on your network for the bridge to get an address. It is highly recommended to use a static IP address for the bridge so that you always know where to find it on the network.<br />
<br />
===Universe===<br />
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.<br />
<br />
===Protocol===<br />
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD.<br><br />
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.<br />
<br />
===Baud===<br />
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.<br />
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when<br />
the DMX protocol is selected.<br><br />
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6<br />
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.<br />
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at<br />
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.<br />
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.<br />
<br />
===Mode===<br />
"MOde" n Where n is 0 for Multicast or 1 for Unicast<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the bridge and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the bridge to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
If you are using the +5vdc option (EXT), you need to make some measurements of the 3.3v regulator or VR2.<br />
<br />
Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 5v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 3.3v regulator and power jumper and check again.<br />
<br />
Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 3.3v - if it is much above 3.3v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 3.3v regulator.<br />
<br />
If you are using the +7-24vdc option (INT), you need to make some measurements of the 5.0v regulator or VR1.<br />
<br />
Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 7-24v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 5.0v regulator and power jumper and check again.<br />
<br />
Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 5.0v - if it is much above 5.0v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 5.0v regulator. Another option is a bad 3.3v regulator. If possible, try a +5v supply with the EXT setting and determine if the 3.3v supply is OK using the measurements above. If it is, then you know the 3.3v regulator is OK. If this is not possible, remove the 3.3v regulator and measure the 5.0v regulator output again. If it is 5.0v as it should be, then the 3.3v regulator was bad and needs to be replaced.<br />
<br />
==Hardware Reset==<br />
===SOFT RESET===<br />
By pressing and releasing the RESET button, you can force a soft reboot of the E1.31 bridge and it will restart with all of the programmed parameters that you have configured the device to. This is a non destructive reboot and all settings remain intact after the reboot.<br />
<br />
===HARD RESET===<br />
It is possible to do a hard reset and erase all of the configured parameters in the E1.31 bridge and return it back to the factory default settings. To do the hard reset and lose all of your settings and return the device to the factory settings: Press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button. The ACT LED will flash a status code, after the ACT LED flashes 10 times, release the MODE button. This will wipe all device configuration settings and reset them to the default factory settings and will force the generation of a new random [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address MAC ID] for the unit if the MAC ID chip (IC 9) is not installed on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:E1.31]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Bridge&diff=12604E1.31 Bridge2017-11-24T14:42:59Z<p>Dlovely: /* Programming the EEPROM */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:E1_31Bridge.png|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==<br />
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that allows your PC to communicate with a large number of Renard or DMX controllers using regular Ethernet network connections. It replaces multiple DMX or RS485 dongles with one configurable device that can be mounted in an enclosure in the yard and only requires one Ethernet Cat5 cable (or WIFI) back to your pc or home network. It allows up to 6 DMX universes or Renard networks to be easily controlled from your sequencing software with a minimum amount of wire from your show pc to your controllers. The bridge works with all Renard, DMX and LOR (using DMX) controllers.<br />
<br />
[[File:E131bridgelayout1.png |800px]]<br />
<br />
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is a method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently supports multicast and unicast streams. Multicast makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 63,999 DMX streams or 'universes' (64000->65536 are reserved) so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.<br />
<br />
The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.<br />
<br />
The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support either a "standard" DMX RJ-45 electrical output or a Renard electrical output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.<br />
<br />
==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==<br />
<br />
As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.<br />
<br />
Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.<br />
<br />
The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.<br />
<br />
For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.<br />
<br />
==E1.31 Networking Basics and Setup==<br />
For more information about how E1.31 works and how you wire up the IP networking side of an E1.31 Network look at <u>[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol| E1.31 Protocol]]</u><br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==<br />
To build the E1.31 Bridge, you need 4 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
# A [[E1.31_Bridge#Power|power supply]] to power the board. The board can use any 5-24VDC power supply.<br />
# An [[Enclosures|enclosure]] to mount the finished board in. Commonly used enclosures include the [[Enclosures#CG-500_.28CableGuard_500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-500]], [[Enclosures#CG-1000_.28CableGuard_1000_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure|CG-1000]] or the [[Enclosures#CG-1500_.28CableGuard_1500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-2000]] which are available from several [[Enclosures#Vendors|vendors]]<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1-R3</td><td>291-220-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 220ohms 0.05 </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R4-R9</td><td> 291-120-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 120ohms 0.05 </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R10-R12</td><td>291-10K-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 0.05 </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C1-C3</td><td> 140-REA470M1VBK0611P </td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 35V 47uF 20% 6.3x11mm </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C4-C12</td><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U </td><td>9</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC1</td><td>619-P8X32A-D40 </td><td>32-bit Microcontrollers - MCU DIP pkg Propeller Chip </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC2</td><td>579-24LC512-I/P </td><td>EEPROM 64kx8 - 2.5V </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC3-IC8</td><td>511-ST485BN </td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC9</td><td>579-24AA025E48-I/SN </td><td>EEPROM 2K 256 X 8 1.8V SERIAL EE, IND </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>X1</td><td>520-HCU500-20X </td><td>Crystals 5MHz 20pF </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Wiznet</td><td>950-WIZ820IO </td><td>Ethernet Modules W5200 & MAG JACK ioPLATFORM MODULE</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED1</td><td>604-WP7113GD </td><td>604-WP7113GD </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED2-LED3</td><td>604-WP7113ID </td><td> Standard LEDs - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>VR1</td><td>580-OKI78SR5/1.5W36C </td><td>DC/DC Converters 7.5W 24Vin 5Vout1 1.5A SIP Non-Iso </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>VR2</td><td>511-LF33CV </td><td>Low Dropout Regulators - LDO 3.3V 0.5A Positive </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Heatsink</td><td> 532-577202B00 </td><td>Heat Sinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>S1-S2</td><td>653-B3F-1000 </td><td>Tactile Switches 6X6 Flat 4.3mm Btn Force 100g w/o Grd </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 1</td><td>575-199640 </td><td> IC & Component Sockets 40P TIN PIN TIN CONT </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 2 - IC Socket 8</td><td>575-1104331610003000 </td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P DIP SOCKET SOCKETS </td><td>7</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>JP1</td><td>571-826629-3 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 3P SINGLE ROW </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>H1</td><td>571-826629-4 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 4P SINGLE ROW </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Wiznet 1x6 Header</td><td>517-9601066202AR </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 6P STR SR BDMNT SKT 3.0MM TAIL/7.1MMBODY </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>2x3 Output Selector</td><td> 855-M20-9980345 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 03+03 DIL VERTICAL PIN HEADER GOLD HT </td><td>12</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>TB1</td><td>571-2828372 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>J1-J6</td><td>571-5556416-1 </td><td>571-5556416-1 </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Output Shunts</td><td>517-9691020000DA </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2.54MM SHUNT </td><td>25</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=25f7a37aed Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==<br />
<br />
The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:E1_31Bridge.png|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#:[[File:E131bridgepcb.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> '''README: DO NOT install the MAC address IC unless you have a Prop Plug to load version 4.02 or greater.''' Install the MAC IC (IC9), this is the only surface mount IC. It is optional if you are not comfortable with soldering surface mount ICs. The firmware will generate a random MAC ID if the IC is not installed. The IC is polarized and the IC must be installed so that the dot on the package aligns with the dot on the pcb, the lower right side of the pad. For hints on how to solder a SMT device look [https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/General/SolderingBasics.pdf here].<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the nine 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 220 Ohm resistors (red, red, brown, gold) R1-R3. The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six 120 Ohm resistors (brown, red, brown, gold) R4-R9. The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 10K Ohm resistors (brown, black, orange, gold) R10-R12 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1. The crystal is not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two push button switches S1-S2. The switches are polarized and will only fit on the board one way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the seven 8 pin IC sockets. The sockets are polarized and have a notch on one end. It should be mounted so that the notch is oriented to the left and matching the marking on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the one 40 pin socket. The sockets are polarized and have a notch on one end. It should be mounted so that the notch is oriented to the right and matching the marking on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the green ACT LED (LED1). Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board. Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two red STATUS and POWER LEDs (LED2-LED3). Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board. Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink. The voltage regulator is polarized and goes only one way. Gently bend the leads of the regulator at the location on the leads where it changes size down at a 90 degree angle towards the flat side of the regulator. Apply thermal grease to the flat heat sink side of the regulator and the heatsink and fasten it to the pcb using a #4 screw and nut.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 3 Pin headers JP1. The short end of the header is soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 4 Pin headers H1. The short end of the header is soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the twelve 2x3 output selector pin headers. The short end of the headers are soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-14.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the power terminal block TB1. Install so that the wire openings face the edge of the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-15.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3. The capacitors are polarized and can only be installed one way. The side of the capacitor will have a stripe on the negative side. The long lead is the positive side, and it goes in the hole marked with a + to the right.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-16.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the DC-DC Converter VR1. The voltage regulator is polarized and must only be installed one way. The flat side of the voltage regulator must be mounted towards the bottom of the board, aligning with the stripe on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-17.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6. The jacks are polarized and they have to be installed with the correct orientation. Gently install all 8 pins into the holes and them firmly press down on the socket to seat the plastic pins in the holes in the PCB. <br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-18.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the left edge with the power terminal block.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-19.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the left edge with the power terminal block.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-20.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter to the right.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-21.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the WizNet adapter with the '''RJ45 socket facing the Propeller IC.''' <br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-22.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> On initial power up and test perform a Hard Reset to initialize the settings. To do a hard reset Press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button. The ACT LED will flash a status code, after the ACT LED flashes 10 times, release the MODE button. This will wipe all device configuration settings and reset them to the default factory settings and will force the generation of a new random [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address MAC ID] for the unit if the MAC ID chip (IC 9) is not installed on the board.<br />
#:[[File:E1 31Bridge Reset.png|300px]]<br />
<br />
H2 will be unpopulated as it is for future expansion.<br />
<br />
<br />
Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.<br />
<br />
====Power Jumper - JP1====<br />
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).<br />
<br />
You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.<br />
<br />
====Output Configuration Jumpers====<br />
[[file:E1_31Bridge_REN.png |400px]]<br />
[[File:E1_31Bridge_REN_Zoom.png |300px]]<br />
<br />
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. These jumpers set the wiring configuration on their respective output jacks. If you want a DMX wiring output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard wiring output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. '''It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output. You must set the DMX or Renard output protocol via the Bridge configuration settings.'''<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Output Jumper Settings'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #'''<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''RJ45 Connectors'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''REN'''<br />
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''DMX'''<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA+ <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA-<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA- <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA+ <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the software protocol for DMX and use the REN output jumper settings. You will be required build a jumper cable to swap pins 4 and 5 between the two ends of the jumper because LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.<br />
<br />
==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least 350 mA. Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
===Power up LED Activity===<br />
On initial power up the green ACT and the red STATUS LEDs flash a sequence of codes to help identify the status and configuration of the bridge. After they go thru their startup flash sequence, the the green ACT LED flashes when ever it sees IP data traffic and the red LED stays lit to signify that the configuration webpage is accessible. The Green ACT LED startup flash pattern are:<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Green ACT LED<br/>Startup Flash Count'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''# of Flashes'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="600" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| IP Status<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is DHCP<br/> and the bridge acquired an IP address from a DHCP server.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is STATIC<br/> and the STATIC address programmed into the bridge is being used.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the bridge has acquired an IP address from a DHCP server. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the STATIC address programmed into the bridge is being used. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is DHCP and has been overridden due to no response from the DHCP server<br/> and the IP address of 169.254.74.73 is being used. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the IP address of 169.254.74.73 is being used due to the lack of response from a DHCP server.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Programming the EEPROM==<br />
The EEPROM ships from DIYLedexpress with the firmware installed. If you buy the parts from another vendor, or you want to update the firmware to a later version, you must have a PropPlug programming tool.<br />
<br />
'''The current version of the firmware is v4.03 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38421&d=1511534427 here].'''<br />
<br />
See [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?49116-Pixel-Extender&p=480820#post480820 this] post for different timings.<br />
<br />
4.0.3<br />
* Supported WS2811 timings of varying production runs.<br />
<br />
4.02<br />
* Fix for new MAC address IC's.<br />
<br />
4.01<br />
* Test patterns (All Red, Green, or Blue, and a Red, Green or Blue chase)<br />
* Timeout feature that will turn off all channels if the bridge has not received any data on any listening universe for 1-60 minutes<br />
<br />
4.00<br />
* WS2811 Pixel Support<br />
* GECE Pixel Support<br />
* Web Firmware Updates - Update the Firmware without a Prop Plug, this is done with a lightweight Java application.<br />
* Real Time Parameter Updates - Change RGB order, Start Universe, Total number of channels and even the Protocol on the fly without rebooting!<br />
* RGB Reordering - Reorders sets of three channels for all supported protocols.<br />
<br />
<br />
Past Versions:<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=567&d=1445118357 4.02].<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24934&d=1412041008 4.01]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24935&d=1412041109 4.00]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20701&d=1381775613 3.04]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20122&d=1377871931 3.03]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19341&d=1369505188 2.06]<br />
<br />
The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it.<br><br />
<br />
===Programming Tools Required===<br />
The Propeller processor uses a different programming interface then the usual PICKIT2 or PICKIT3 device used to program the Renard PICS with their firmware. You can not use a PICKIT 2 or PICKIT3 to load the E1.31 bridge firmware. '''The recommended way to load the firmware in the E1.31 bridge is to use the PropPlug.'''<br><br />
====PropPlug====<br />
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]]<br><br />
You can buy a PropPlug from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=161 DIYLEDExpress] (Limited Stock) or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/product/32201 Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser].<br />
<br />
====Build your own Programming Interface====<br />
If you do not have access to a PropPlug, but you do have a PC with a true serial port, it is possible to build a simple interface to program the E1.31 bridge using simple common parts you can find from many vendors. However, the low cost PropPlug with it's USB interface works best on most modern computers.<br/><br />
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===How To Install the Firmware Programming===<br />
<br />
* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/downloads/propeller-tool-software Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.<br />
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes. <br />
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file. <br />
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex' <br />
* Connect the PropPlug to the PC and the PCB making sure that the plug is oriented correctly to match the markings on the pcb. <br />
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.<br />
<br />
==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==<br />
In order to use your E1.31 Bridge, you must install and configure the software on your pc to allow your sequencing software to speak E1.31 protocol to the bridge. Click on the following links for instructions for:<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_Vixen|Vixen]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_LOR_S3|LOR S3]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_HLS|HLS]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_LightShowPro_.28LSP.29|LSP]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Configuring the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
Once the bridge has been built and passed preliminary tests, it must be configured to operate. The configuration can be done when the bridge is connected directly to the PC or to the home network. The configuration page can be accessed via the default IP address of the controller via the browser of your choice. '''The default IP address of the bridge is 192.168.1.206''' Open up your browser and enter http://192.168.1.206 and the setup page for the bridge will appear in the browser. '''If you have changed the default IP address of the bridge, you must use that address to access the setup screen.'''<br />
<br />
===IP Address Configuration===<br />
The default IP address and mode of the bridge when initially setup is 192.168.1.206 and is a static IP address. This can be later changed thru the web interface to what ever network address you need. '''Note that all E1.31 bridges and the E682 Pixel controller all use this default IP address, so if you have multiple devices on the same network, you must change the static address of the units to avoid a conflict.'''<br />
<br />
====Temporary Manual Address Overide====<br />
When you are troubleshooting the E1,31 bridge, it is possible to force the IP address of the unit to use another setting by using the MODE and RESET buttons at power up. If you press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button you can temporarily change the IP address mode. You must release the MODE button after the correct number of flashes listed below to activate that mode.<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Green ACT LED<br/>Overide Flash Count'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''# of Flashes'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="600" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Temporary Overide IP Status<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| No Change.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The last saved STATIC IP address is enabled<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| DHCP IP address is enabled.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware Version 3.x+ Configuration==<br />
[[File:BridgeConfigPage.png]]<br />
<br />
===System Settings===<br />
[[File:SystemSettings.png]]<br />
<br />
IP Mode: Sets Static or DHCP IP address Mode<br/><br />
IP Address: The IP Address of the Bridge<br/><br />
Subnet Mask: The Subnet Mask of the Bridge<br/><br />
Gateway: The Gateway Address<br/><br />
MAC Address: The MAC Address of the MAC IC or Auto generated MAC Address<br/><br />
Mode: Sets the Bridge in Multicast or Unicast Mode<br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to any of the settings above click "Update System Settings" to save these setting.<br />
<br />
===Universe Settings===<br />
[[File:UniverseNumbers.png]]<br />
<br />
Universe Number: Defines the Universe numbers the Bridge will use, 6 are available in Multicast Mode (Unusable ones are grayed out) and 12 are available in Unicast Mode. All numbers should be unique.<br/><br />
Packets Received: The number of packages received on this universe.<br/><br />
DMX Channel Count: The number of channels sent in the E1.31 Universe packet.<br/><br />
Sequence Errors: The number of out of order packets received. NOTE: There is a bug in some of the transmitting E1.31 plugins where sequence numbers are not sequential per Universe. <br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to the Universe numbers above click "Update Universe Numbers" to save these setting.<br />
<br />
===Output Configuration===<br />
[[File:OutputConfiguration.png]]<br />
<br />
Output Number: The output jack number.<br/><br />
Protocol: The Protocol used for the output.<br/><br />
Baud (Renard Only): Sets the Renard Output Serial Baud Rate.<br/><br />
Options (Renard Only): Defines the output formate, Normally use 8N1, 8M2 is for solving issues with higher channel counts for RenW setups.<br/><br />
Channels: The number of channels on this output. (Note DMX has a max of 512 Channels)<br/><br />
Start Universe: Define the universe number of the starting channel.<br/><br />
Start Channel: The starting channel for this output.<br/><br />
End Universe: Auto calculated ending Universe Number.<br/><br />
End Channel: Auto calculated ending Channel Number.<br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to each output number click "Update" to save the changes for that output.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Version 2.x Configuration Commands==<br />
Once you access the E1.31 webpage you can configure the device settings via a command line interface (original firmware) or via a webpage drop down menu (beta firmware). In the command line interface, all commands are entered on the command line and are temporary until saved. It is critical to follow all command line changes with the "SAVE 0" command to ensure your updates are saved in the device. You must then reboot the E1.31 bridge to make the changes take effect by either hitting the RESET button, or entering "BOOT 999" . <br />
<br />
===Save===<br />
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page<br />
<br />
===Load===<br />
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.<br />
<br />
===Boot===<br />
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!<br />
<br />
===IP===<br />
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address.<br />
<br />
This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.<br />
<br />
===Subnet===<br />
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.<br />
<br />
This should also match the subnet mask of your PC Ethernet port since it is normally on the same subnet. This is typically 255.255.255.0 or 24 bits.<br />
<br />
===Gateway===<br />
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router. <br />
<br />
===DNS===<br />
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router. <br />
<br><br />
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused. <br />
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration <br />
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation. <br />
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect <br />
what happens when the system starts up. <br />
<br />
===Default===<br />
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1.<br />
<br />
DE 0 sets the addressing mode to a static or fixed IPv4 network address that is configured with the commands above. DE 1 sets the addressing mode to DHCP - you must have a working DHCP server on your network for the bridge to get an address. It is highly recommended to use a static IP address for the bridge so that you always know where to find it on the network.<br />
<br />
===Universe===<br />
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.<br />
<br />
===Protocol===<br />
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD.<br><br />
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.<br />
<br />
===Baud===<br />
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.<br />
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when<br />
the DMX protocol is selected.<br><br />
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6<br />
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.<br />
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at<br />
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.<br />
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.<br />
<br />
===Mode===<br />
"MOde" n Where n is 0 for Multicast or 1 for Unicast<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the bridge and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the bridge to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
If you are using the +5vdc option (EXT), you need to make some measurements of the 3.3v regulator or VR2.<br />
<br />
Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 5v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 3.3v regulator and power jumper and check again.<br />
<br />
Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 3.3v - if it is much above 3.3v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 3.3v regulator.<br />
<br />
If you are using the +7-24vdc option (INT), you need to make some measurements of the 5.0v regulator or VR1.<br />
<br />
Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 7-24v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 5.0v regulator and power jumper and check again.<br />
<br />
Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 5.0v - if it is much above 5.0v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 5.0v regulator. Another option is a bad 3.3v regulator. If possible, try a +5v supply with the EXT setting and determine if the 3.3v supply is OK using the measurements above. If it is, then you know the 3.3v regulator is OK. If this is not possible, remove the 3.3v regulator and measure the 5.0v regulator output again. If it is 5.0v as it should be, then the 3.3v regulator was bad and needs to be replaced.<br />
<br />
==Hardware Reset==<br />
===SOFT RESET===<br />
By pressing and releasing the RESET button, you can force a soft reboot of the E1.31 bridge and it will restart with all of the programmed parameters that you have configured the device to. This is a non destructive reboot and all settings remain intact after the reboot.<br />
<br />
===HARD RESET===<br />
It is possible to do a hard reset and erase all of the configured parameters in the E1.31 bridge and return it back to the factory default settings. To do the hard reset and lose all of your settings and return the device to the factory settings: Press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button. The ACT LED will flash a status code, after the ACT LED flashes 10 times, release the MODE button. This will wipe all device configuration settings and reset them to the default factory settings and will force the generation of a new random [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address MAC ID] for the unit if the MAC ID chip (IC 9) is not installed on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:E1.31]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Bridge&diff=12262E1.31 Bridge2016-01-29T21:04:05Z<p>Dlovely: /* Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:E1_31Bridge.png|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==<br />
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that allows your PC to communicate with a large number of Renard or DMX controllers using regular Ethernet network connections. It replaces multiple DMX or RS485 dongles with one configurable device that can be mounted in an enclosure in the yard and only requires one Ethernet Cat5 cable (or WIFI) back to your pc or home network. It allows up to 6 DMX universes or Renard networks to be easily controlled from your sequencing software with a minimum amount of wire from your show pc to your controllers. The bridge works with all Renard, DMX and LOR (using DMX) controllers.<br />
<br />
[[File:E131bridgelayout1.png |800px]]<br />
<br />
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is a method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently supports multicast and unicast streams. Multicast makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 63,999 DMX streams or 'universes' (64000->65536 are reserved) so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.<br />
<br />
The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.<br />
<br />
The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support either a "standard" DMX RJ-45 electrical output or a Renard electrical output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.<br />
<br />
==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==<br />
<br />
As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.<br />
<br />
Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.<br />
<br />
The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.<br />
<br />
For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.<br />
<br />
==E1.31 Networking Basics and Setup==<br />
For more information about how E1.31 works and how you wire up the IP networking side of an E1.31 Network look at <u>[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol| E1.31 Protocol]]</u><br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==<br />
To build the E1.31 Bridge, you need 4 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
# A [[E1.31_Bridge#Power|power supply]] to power the board. The board can use any 5-24VDC power supply.<br />
# An [[Enclosures|enclosure]] to mount the finished board in. Commonly used enclosures include the [[Enclosures#CG-500_.28CableGuard_500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-500]], [[Enclosures#CG-1000_.28CableGuard_1000_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure|CG-1000]] or the [[Enclosures#CG-1500_.28CableGuard_1500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-2000]] which are available from several [[Enclosures#Vendors|vendors]]<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1-R3</td><td>291-220-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 220ohms 0.05 </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R4-R9</td><td> 291-120-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 120ohms 0.05 </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R10-R12</td><td>291-10K-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 0.05 </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C1-C3</td><td> 140-REA470M1VBK0611P </td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 35V 47uF 20% 6.3x11mm </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C4-C12</td><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U </td><td>9</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC1</td><td>619-P8X32A-D40 </td><td>32-bit Microcontrollers - MCU DIP pkg Propeller Chip </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC2</td><td>579-24LC512-I/P </td><td>EEPROM 64kx8 - 2.5V </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC3-IC8</td><td>511-ST485BN </td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC9</td><td>579-24AA025E48-I/SN </td><td>EEPROM 2K 256 X 8 1.8V SERIAL EE, IND </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>X1</td><td>520-HCU500-20X </td><td>Crystals 5MHz 20pF </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Wiznet</td><td>950-WIZ820IO </td><td>Ethernet Modules W5200 & MAG JACK ioPLATFORM MODULE</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED1</td><td>604-WP7113GD </td><td>604-WP7113GD </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED2-LED3</td><td>604-WP7113ID </td><td> Standard LEDs - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>VR1</td><td>580-OKI78SR5/1.5W36C </td><td>DC/DC Converters 7.5W 24Vin 5Vout1 1.5A SIP Non-Iso </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>VR2</td><td>511-LF33CV </td><td>Low Dropout Regulators - LDO 3.3V 0.5A Positive </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Heatsink</td><td> 532-577202B00 </td><td>Heat Sinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>S1-S2</td><td>653-B3F-1000 </td><td>Tactile Switches 6X6 Flat 4.3mm Btn Force 100g w/o Grd </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 1</td><td>575-199640 </td><td> IC & Component Sockets 40P TIN PIN TIN CONT </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 2 - IC Socket 8</td><td>575-1104331610003000 </td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P DIP SOCKET SOCKETS </td><td>7</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>JP1</td><td>571-826629-3 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 3P SINGLE ROW </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>H1</td><td>571-826629-4 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 4P SINGLE ROW </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Wiznet 1x6 Header</td><td>517-9601066202AR </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 6P STR SR BDMNT SKT 3.0MM TAIL/7.1MMBODY </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>2x3 Output Selector</td><td> 855-M20-9980345 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 03+03 DIL VERTICAL PIN HEADER GOLD HT </td><td>12</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>TB1</td><td>571-2828372 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>J1-J6</td><td>571-5556416-1 </td><td>571-5556416-1 </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Output Shunts</td><td>517-9691020000DA </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2.54MM SHUNT </td><td>25</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=25f7a37aed Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==<br />
<br />
The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:E1_31Bridge.png|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#:[[File:E131bridgepcb.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> '''README: DO NOT install the MAC address IC unless you have a Prop Plug to load version 4.02 or greater.''' Install the MAC IC (IC9), this is the only surface mount IC. It is optional if you are not comfortable with soldering surface mount ICs. The firmware will generate a random MAC ID if the IC is not installed. The IC is polarized and the IC must be installed so that the dot on the package aligns with the dot on the pcb, the lower right side of the pad. For hints on how to solder a SMT device look [https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/General/SolderingBasics.pdf here].<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the nine 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 220 Ohm resistors (red, red, brown, gold) R1-R3. The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six 120 Ohm resistors (brown, red, brown, gold) R4-R9. The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 10K Ohm resistors (brown, black, orange, gold) R10-R12 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1. The crystal is not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two push button switches S1-S2. The switches are polarized and will only fit on the board one way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the seven 8 pin IC sockets. The sockets are polarized and have a notch on one end. It should be mounted so that the notch is oriented to the left and matching the marking on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the one 40 pin socket. The sockets are polarized and have a notch on one end. It should be mounted so that the notch is oriented to the right and matching the marking on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the green ACT LED (LED1). Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board. Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two red STATUS and POWER LEDs (LED2-LED3). Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board. Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink. The voltage regulator is polarized and goes only one way. Gently bend the leads of the regulator at the location on the leads where it changes size down at a 90 degree angle towards the flat side of the regulator. Apply thermal grease to the flat heat sink side of the regulator and the heatsink and fasten it to the pcb using a #4 screw and nut.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 3 Pin headers JP1. The short end of the header is soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 4 Pin headers H1. The short end of the header is soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the twelve 2x3 output selector pin headers. The short end of the headers are soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-14.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the power terminal block TB1. Install so that the wire openings face the edge of the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-15.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3. The capacitors are polarized and can only be installed one way. The side of the capacitor will have a stripe on the negative side. The long lead is the positive side, and it goes in the hole marked with a + to the right.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-16.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the DC-DC Converter VR1. The voltage regulator is polarized and must only be installed one way. The flat side of the voltage regulator must be mounted towards the bottom of the board, aligning with the stripe on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-17.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6. The jacks are polarized and they have to be installed with the correct orientation. Gently install all 8 pins into the holes and them firmly press down on the socket to seat the plastic pins in the holes in the PCB. <br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-18.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the left edge with the power terminal block.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-19.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the left edge with the power terminal block.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-20.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter to the right.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-21.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the WizNet adapter with the '''RJ45 socket facing the Propeller IC.''' <br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-22.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> On initial power up and test perform a Hard Reset to initialize the settings. To do a hard reset Press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button. The ACT LED will flash a status code, after the ACT LED flashes 10 times, release the MODE button. This will wipe all device configuration settings and reset them to the default factory settings and will force the generation of a new random [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address MAC ID] for the unit if the MAC ID chip (IC 9) is not installed on the board.<br />
#:[[File:E1 31Bridge Reset.png|300px]]<br />
<br />
H2 will be unpopulated as it is for future expansion.<br />
<br />
<br />
Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.<br />
<br />
====Power Jumper - JP1====<br />
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).<br />
<br />
You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.<br />
<br />
====Output Configuration Jumpers====<br />
[[file:E1_31Bridge_REN.png |400px]]<br />
[[File:E1_31Bridge_REN_Zoom.png |300px]]<br />
<br />
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. These jumpers set the wiring configuration on their respective output jacks. If you want a DMX wiring output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard wiring output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. '''It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output. You must set the DMX or Renard output protocol via the Bridge configuration settings.'''<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Output Jumper Settings'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #'''<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''RJ45 Connectors'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''REN'''<br />
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''DMX'''<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA+ <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA-<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA- <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA+ <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the software protocol for DMX and use the REN output jumper settings. You will be required build a jumper cable to swap pins 4 and 5 between the two ends of the jumper because LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.<br />
<br />
==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least 350 mA. Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
===Power up LED Activity===<br />
On initial power up the green ACT and the red STATUS LEDs flash a sequence of codes to help identify the status and configuration of the bridge. After they go thru their startup flash sequence, the the green ACT LED flashes when ever it sees IP data traffic and the red LED stays lit to signify that the configuration webpage is accessible. The Green ACT LED startup flash pattern are:<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Green ACT LED<br/>Startup Flash Count'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''# of Flashes'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="600" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| IP Status<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is DHCP<br/> and the bridge acquired an IP address from a DHCP server.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is STATIC<br/> and the STATIC address programmed into the bridge is being used.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the bridge has acquired an IP address from a DHCP server. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the STATIC address programmed into the bridge is being used. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is DHCP and has been overridden due to no response from the DHCP server<br/> and the IP address of 169.254.74.73 is being used. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the IP address of 169.254.74.73 is being used due to the lack of response from a DHCP server.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Programming the EEPROM==<br />
The EEPROM ships from DIYLedexpress with the firmware installed. If you buy the parts from another vendor, or you want to update the firmware to a later version, you must have a PropPlug programming tool.<br />
<br />
'''The current version of the firmware is v4.02 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=567&d=1445118357 here].'''<br />
<br />
4.02<br />
* Fix for new MAC address IC's.<br />
<br />
4.01<br />
* Test patterns (All Red, Green, or Blue, and a Red, Green or Blue chase)<br />
* Timeout feature that will turn off all channels if the bridge has not received any data on any listening universe for 1-60 minutes<br />
<br />
4.00<br />
* WS2811 Pixel Support<br />
* GECE Pixel Support<br />
* Web Firmware Updates - Update the Firmware without a Prop Plug, this is done with a lightweight Java application.<br />
* Real Time Parameter Updates - Change RGB order, Start Universe, Total number of channels and even the Protocol on the fly without rebooting!<br />
* RGB Reordering - Reorders sets of three channels for all supported protocols.<br />
<br />
<br />
Past Versions:<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24934&d=1412041008 4.01]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24935&d=1412041109 4.00]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20701&d=1381775613 3.04]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20122&d=1377871931 3.03]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19341&d=1369505188 2.06]<br />
<br />
The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it.<br><br />
<br />
===Programming Tools Required===<br />
The Propeller processor uses a different programming interface then the usual PICKIT2 or PICKIT3 device used to program the Renard PICS with their firmware. You can not use a PICKIT 2 or PICKIT3 to load the E1.31 bridge firmware. '''The recommended way to load the firmware in the E1.31 bridge is to use the PropPlug.'''<br><br />
====PropPlug====<br />
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]]<br><br />
You can buy a PropPlug from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=161 DIYLEDExpress] (Limited Stock) or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/product/32201 Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser].<br />
<br />
====Build your own Programming Interface====<br />
If you do not have access to a PropPlug, but you do have a PC with a true serial port, it is possible to build a simple interface to program the E1.31 bridge using simple common parts you can find from many vendors. However, the low cost PropPlug with it's USB interface works best on most modern computers.<br/><br />
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===How To Install the Firmware Programming===<br />
<br />
* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/downloads/propeller-tool-software Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.<br />
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes. <br />
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file. <br />
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex' <br />
* Connect the PropPlug to the PC and the PCB making sure that the plug is oriented correctly to match the markings on the pcb. <br />
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.<br />
<br />
==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==<br />
In order to use your E1.31 Bridge, you must install and configure the software on your pc to allow your sequencing software to speak E1.31 protocol to the bridge. Click on the following links for instructions for:<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_Vixen|Vixen]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_LOR_S3|LOR S3]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_HLS|HLS]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_LightShowPro_.28LSP.29|LSP]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Configuring the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
Once the bridge has been built and passed preliminary tests, it must be configured to operate. The configuration can be done when the bridge is connected directly to the PC or to the home network. The configuration page can be accessed via the default IP address of the controller via the browser of your choice. '''The default IP address of the bridge is 192.168.1.206''' Open up your browser and enter http://192.168.1.206 and the setup page for the bridge will appear in the browser. '''If you have changed the default IP address of the bridge, you must use that address to access the setup screen.'''<br />
<br />
===IP Address Configuration===<br />
The default IP address and mode of the bridge when initially setup is 192.168.1.206 and is a static IP address. This can be later changed thru the web interface to what ever network address you need. '''Note that all E1.31 bridges and the E682 Pixel controller all use this default IP address, so if you have multiple devices on the same network, you must change the static address of the units to avoid a conflict.'''<br />
<br />
====Temporary Manual Address Overide====<br />
When you are troubleshooting the E1,31 bridge, it is possible to force the IP address of the unit to use another setting by using the MODE and RESET buttons at power up. If you press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button you can temporarily change the IP address mode. You must release the MODE button after the correct number of flashes listed below to activate that mode.<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Green ACT LED<br/>Overide Flash Count'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''# of Flashes'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="600" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Temporary Overide IP Status<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| No Change.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The last saved STATIC IP address is enabled<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| DHCP IP address is enabled.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware Version 3.x+ Configuration==<br />
[[File:BridgeConfigPage.png]]<br />
<br />
===System Settings===<br />
[[File:SystemSettings.png]]<br />
<br />
IP Mode: Sets Static or DHCP IP address Mode<br/><br />
IP Address: The IP Address of the Bridge<br/><br />
Subnet Mask: The Subnet Mask of the Bridge<br/><br />
Gateway: The Gateway Address<br/><br />
MAC Address: The MAC Address of the MAC IC or Auto generated MAC Address<br/><br />
Mode: Sets the Bridge in Multicast or Unicast Mode<br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to any of the settings above click "Update System Settings" to save these setting.<br />
<br />
===Universe Settings===<br />
[[File:UniverseNumbers.png]]<br />
<br />
Universe Number: Defines the Universe numbers the Bridge will use, 6 are available in Multicast Mode (Unusable ones are grayed out) and 12 are available in Unicast Mode. All numbers should be unique.<br/><br />
Packets Received: The number of packages received on this universe.<br/><br />
DMX Channel Count: The number of channels sent in the E1.31 Universe packet.<br/><br />
Sequence Errors: The number of out of order packets received. NOTE: There is a bug in some of the transmitting E1.31 plugins where sequence numbers are not sequential per Universe. <br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to the Universe numbers above click "Update Universe Numbers" to save these setting.<br />
<br />
===Output Configuration===<br />
[[File:OutputConfiguration.png]]<br />
<br />
Output Number: The output jack number.<br/><br />
Protocol: The Protocol used for the output.<br/><br />
Baud (Renard Only): Sets the Renard Output Serial Baud Rate.<br/><br />
Options (Renard Only): Defines the output formate, Normally use 8N1, 8M2 is for solving issues with higher channel counts for RenW setups.<br/><br />
Channels: The number of channels on this output. (Note DMX has a max of 512 Channels)<br/><br />
Start Universe: Define the universe number of the starting channel.<br/><br />
Start Channel: The starting channel for this output.<br/><br />
End Universe: Auto calculated ending Universe Number.<br/><br />
End Channel: Auto calculated ending Channel Number.<br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to each output number click "Update" to save the changes for that output.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Version 2.x Configuration Commands==<br />
Once you access the E1.31 webpage you can configure the device settings via a command line interface (original firmware) or via a webpage drop down menu (beta firmware). In the command line interface, all commands are entered on the command line and are temporary until saved. It is critical to follow all command line changes with the "SAVE 0" command to ensure your updates are saved in the device. You must then reboot the E1.31 bridge to make the changes take effect by either hitting the RESET button, or entering "BOOT 999" . <br />
<br />
===Save===<br />
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page<br />
<br />
===Load===<br />
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.<br />
<br />
===Boot===<br />
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!<br />
<br />
===IP===<br />
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address.<br />
<br />
This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.<br />
<br />
===Subnet===<br />
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.<br />
<br />
This should also match the subnet mask of your PC Ethernet port since it is normally on the same subnet. This is typically 255.255.255.0 or 24 bits.<br />
<br />
===Gateway===<br />
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router. <br />
<br />
===DNS===<br />
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router. <br />
<br><br />
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused. <br />
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration <br />
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation. <br />
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect <br />
what happens when the system starts up. <br />
<br />
===Default===<br />
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1.<br />
<br />
DE 0 sets the addressing mode to a static or fixed IPv4 network address that is configured with the commands above. DE 1 sets the addressing mode to DHCP - you must have a working DHCP server on your network for the bridge to get an address. It is highly recommended to use a static IP address for the bridge so that you always know where to find it on the network.<br />
<br />
===Universe===<br />
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.<br />
<br />
===Protocol===<br />
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD.<br><br />
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.<br />
<br />
===Baud===<br />
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.<br />
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when<br />
the DMX protocol is selected.<br><br />
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6<br />
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.<br />
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at<br />
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.<br />
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.<br />
<br />
===Mode===<br />
"MOde" n Where n is 0 for Multicast or 1 for Unicast<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the bridge and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the bridge to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
If you are using the +5vdc option (EXT), you need to make some measurements of the 3.3v regulator or VR2.<br />
<br />
Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 5v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 3.3v regulator and power jumper and check again.<br />
<br />
Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 3.3v - if it is much above 3.3v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 3.3v regulator.<br />
<br />
If you are using the +7-24vdc option (INT), you need to make some measurements of the 5.0v regulator or VR1.<br />
<br />
Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 7-24v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 5.0v regulator and power jumper and check again.<br />
<br />
Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 5.0v - if it is much above 5.0v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 5.0v regulator. Another option is a bad 3.3v regulator. If possible, try a +5v supply with the EXT setting and determine if the 3.3v supply is OK using the measurements above. If it is, then you know the 3.3v regulator is OK. If this is not possible, remove the 3.3v regulator and measure the 5.0v regulator output again. If it is 5.0v as it should be, then the 3.3v regulator was bad and needs to be replaced.<br />
<br />
==Hardware Reset==<br />
===SOFT RESET===<br />
By pressing and releasing the RESET button, you can force a soft reboot of the E1.31 bridge and it will restart with all of the programmed parameters that you have configured the device to. This is a non destructive reboot and all settings remain intact after the reboot.<br />
<br />
===HARD RESET===<br />
It is possible to do a hard reset and erase all of the configured parameters in the E1.31 bridge and return it back to the factory default settings. To do the hard reset and lose all of your settings and return the device to the factory settings: Press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button. The ACT LED will flash a status code, after the ACT LED flashes 10 times, release the MODE button. This will wipe all device configuration settings and reset them to the default factory settings and will force the generation of a new random [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address MAC ID] for the unit if the MAC ID chip (IC 9) is not installed on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:E1.31]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Bridge&diff=12239E1.31 Bridge2015-10-17T21:48:11Z<p>Dlovely: /* Programming the EEPROM */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:E1_31Bridge.png|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==<br />
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that allows your PC to communicate with a large number of Renard or DMX controllers using regular Ethernet network connections. It replaces multiple DMX or RS485 dongles with one configurable device that can be mounted in an enclosure in the yard and only requires one Ethernet Cat5 cable (or WIFI) back to your pc or home network. It allows up to 6 DMX universes or Renard networks to be easily controlled from your sequencing software with a minimum amount of wire from your show pc to your controllers. The bridge works with all Renard, DMX and LOR (using DMX) controllers.<br />
<br />
[[File:E131bridgelayout1.png |800px]]<br />
<br />
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is a method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently supports multicast and unicast streams. Multicast makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 63,999 DMX streams or 'universes' (64000->65536 are reserved) so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.<br />
<br />
The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.<br />
<br />
The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support either a "standard" DMX RJ-45 electrical output or a Renard electrical output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.<br />
<br />
==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==<br />
<br />
As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.<br />
<br />
Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.<br />
<br />
The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.<br />
<br />
For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.<br />
<br />
==E1.31 Networking Basics and Setup==<br />
For more information about how E1.31 works and how you wire up the IP networking side of an E1.31 Network look at <u>[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol| E1.31 Protocol]]</u><br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==<br />
To build the E1.31 Bridge, you need 4 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
# A [[E1.31_Bridge#Power|power supply]] to power the board. The board can use any 5-24VDC power supply.<br />
# An [[Enclosures|enclosure]] to mount the finished board in. Commonly used enclosures include the [[Enclosures#CG-500_.28CableGuard_500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-500]], [[Enclosures#CG-1000_.28CableGuard_1000_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure|CG-1000]] or the [[Enclosures#CG-1500_.28CableGuard_1500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-2000]] which are available from several [[Enclosures#Vendors|vendors]]<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1-R3</td><td>291-220-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 220ohms 0.05 </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R4-R9</td><td> 291-120-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 120ohms 0.05 </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R10-R12</td><td>291-10K-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 0.05 </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C1-C3</td><td> 140-REA470M1VBK0611P </td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 35V 47uF 20% 6.3x11mm </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C4-C12</td><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U </td><td>9</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC1</td><td>619-P8X32A-D40 </td><td>32-bit Microcontrollers - MCU DIP pkg Propeller Chip </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC2</td><td>579-24LC512-I/P </td><td>EEPROM 64kx8 - 2.5V </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC3-IC8</td><td>511-ST485BN </td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC9</td><td>579-24AA025E48-I/SN </td><td>EEPROM 2K 256 X 8 1.8V SERIAL EE, IND </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>X1</td><td>520-HCU500-20X </td><td>Crystals 5MHz 20pF </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Wiznet</td><td>950-WIZ820IO </td><td>Ethernet Modules W5200 & MAG JACK ioPLATFORM MODULE</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED1</td><td>604-WP7113GD </td><td>604-WP7113GD </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED2-LED3</td><td>604-WP7113ID </td><td> Standard LEDs - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>VR1</td><td>580-OKI78SR5/1.5W36C </td><td>DC/DC Converters 7.5W 24Vin 5Vout1 1.5A SIP Non-Iso </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>VR2</td><td>511-LF33CV </td><td>Low Dropout Regulators - LDO 3.3V 0.5A Positive </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Heatsink</td><td> 532-577202B00 </td><td>Heat Sinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>S1-S2</td><td>653-B3F-1000 </td><td>Tactile Switches 6X6 Flat 4.3mm Btn Force 100g w/o Grd </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 1</td><td>575-199640 </td><td> IC & Component Sockets 40P TIN PIN TIN CONT </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 2 - IC Socket 8</td><td>575-1104331610003000 </td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P DIP SOCKET SOCKETS </td><td>7</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>JP1</td><td>571-826629-3 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 3P SINGLE ROW </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>H1</td><td>571-826629-4 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 4P SINGLE ROW </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Wiznet 1x6 Header</td><td>517-9601066202AR </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 6P STR SR BDMNT SKT 3.0MM TAIL/7.1MMBODY </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>2x3 Output Selector</td><td> 855-M20-9980345 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 03+03 DIL VERTICAL PIN HEADER GOLD HT </td><td>12</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>TB1</td><td>571-2828372 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>J1-J6</td><td>571-5556416-1 </td><td>571-5556416-1 </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Output Shunts</td><td>517-9691020000DA </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2.54MM SHUNT </td><td>25</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=25f7a37aed Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==<br />
<br />
The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:E1_31Bridge.png|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#:[[File:E131bridgepcb.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> '''README: DO NOT install the MAC address IC unless you have a Prop Plug to load version 4.02 or greater.''' Install the MAC IC, this is the only surface mount IC. It is optional if you are not comfortable with soldering surface mount ICs. The firmware will generate a random MAC ID if the IC is not installed. The IC is polarized and the IC must be installed so that the dot on the package aligns with the dot on the pcb, the lower right side of the pad. For hints on how to solder a SMT device look [https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/General/SolderingBasics.pdf here].<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the nine 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 220 Ohm resistors (red, red, brown, gold) R1-R3. The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six 120 Ohm resistors (brown, red, brown, gold) R4-R9. The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 10K Ohm resistors (brown, black, orange, gold) R10-R12 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1. The crystal is not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two push button switches S1-S2. The switches are polarized and will only fit on the board one way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the seven 8 pin IC sockets. The sockets are polarized and have a notch on one end. It should be mounted so that the notch is oriented to the left and matching the marking on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the one 40 pin socket. The sockets are polarized and have a notch on one end. It should be mounted so that the notch is oriented to the right and matching the marking on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the green ACT LED (LED1). Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board. Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two red STATUS and POWER LEDs (LED2-LED3). Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board. Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink. The voltage regulator is polarized and goes only one way. Gently bend the leads of the regulator at the location on the leads where it changes size down at a 90 degree angle towards the flat side of the regulator. Apply thermal grease to the flat heat sink side of the regulator and the heatsink and fasten it to the pcb using a #4 screw and nut.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 3 Pin headers JP1. The short end of the header is soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 4 Pin headers H1. The short end of the header is soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the twelve 2x3 output selector pin headers. The short end of the headers are soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-14.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the power terminal block TB1. Install so that the wire openings face the edge of the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-15.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3. The capacitors are polarized and can only be installed one way. The side of the capacitor will have a stripe on the negative side. The long lead is the positive side, and it goes in the hole marked with a + to the right.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-16.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the DC-DC Converter VR1. The voltage regulator is polarized and must only be installed one way. The flat side of the voltage regulator must be mounted towards the bottom of the board, aligning with the stripe on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-17.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6. The jacks are polarized and they have to be installed with the correct orientation. Gently install all 8 pins into the holes and them firmly press down on the socket to seat the plastic pins in the holes in the PCB. <br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-18.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the left edge with the power terminal block.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-19.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the left edge with the power terminal block.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-20.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter to the right.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-21.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the WizNet adapter with the '''RJ45 socket facing the Propeller IC.''' <br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-22.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> On initial power up and test perform a Hard Reset to initialize the settings. To do a hard reset Press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button. The ACT LED will flash a status code, after the ACT LED flashes 10 times, release the MODE button. This will wipe all device configuration settings and reset them to the default factory settings and will force the generation of a new random [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address MAC ID] for the unit if the MAC ID chip (IC 9) is not installed on the board.<br />
#:[[File:E1 31Bridge Reset.png|300px]]<br />
<br />
H2 will be unpopulated as it is for future expansion.<br />
<br />
<br />
Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.<br />
<br />
====Power Jumper - JP1====<br />
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).<br />
<br />
You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.<br />
<br />
====Output Configuration Jumpers====<br />
[[file:E1_31Bridge_REN.png |400px]]<br />
[[File:E1_31Bridge_REN_Zoom.png |300px]]<br />
<br />
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. These jumpers set the wiring configuration on their respective output jacks. If you want a DMX wiring output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard wiring output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. '''It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output. You must set the DMX or Renard output protocol via the Bridge configuration settings.'''<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Output Jumper Settings'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #'''<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''RJ45 Connectors'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''REN'''<br />
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''DMX'''<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA+ <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA-<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA- <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA+ <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the software protocol for DMX and use the REN output jumper settings. You will be required build a jumper cable to swap pins 4 and 5 between the two ends of the jumper because LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.<br />
<br />
==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least 350 mA. Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
===Power up LED Activity===<br />
On initial power up the green ACT and the red STATUS LEDs flash a sequence of codes to help identify the status and configuration of the bridge. After they go thru their startup flash sequence, the the green ACT LED flashes when ever it sees IP data traffic and the red LED stays lit to signify that the configuration webpage is accessible. The Green ACT LED startup flash pattern are:<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Green ACT LED<br/>Startup Flash Count'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''# of Flashes'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="600" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| IP Status<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is DHCP<br/> and the bridge acquired an IP address from a DHCP server.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is STATIC<br/> and the STATIC address programmed into the bridge is being used.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the bridge has acquired an IP address from a DHCP server. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the STATIC address programmed into the bridge is being used. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is DHCP and has been overridden due to no response from the DHCP server<br/> and the IP address of 169.254.74.73 is being used. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the IP address of 169.254.74.73 is being used due to the lack of response from a DHCP server.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Programming the EEPROM==<br />
The EEPROM ships from DIYLedexpress with the firmware installed. If you buy the parts from another vendor, or you want to update the firmware to a later version, you must have a PropPlug programming tool.<br />
<br />
'''The current version of the firmware is v4.02 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/attachment.php?attachmentid=567&d=1445118357 here].'''<br />
<br />
4.02<br />
* Fix for new MAC address IC's.<br />
<br />
4.01<br />
* Test patterns (All Red, Green, or Blue, and a Red, Green or Blue chase)<br />
* Timeout feature that will turn off all channels if the bridge has not received any data on any listening universe for 1-60 minutes<br />
<br />
4.00<br />
* WS2811 Pixel Support<br />
* GECE Pixel Support<br />
* Web Firmware Updates - Update the Firmware without a Prop Plug, this is done with a lightweight Java application.<br />
* Real Time Parameter Updates - Change RGB order, Start Universe, Total number of channels and even the Protocol on the fly without rebooting!<br />
* RGB Reordering - Reorders sets of three channels for all supported protocols.<br />
<br />
<br />
Past Versions:<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24934&d=1412041008 4.01]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24935&d=1412041109 4.00]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20701&d=1381775613 3.04]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20122&d=1377871931 3.03]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19341&d=1369505188 2.06]<br />
<br />
The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it.<br><br />
<br />
===Programming Tools Required===<br />
The Propeller processor uses a different programming interface then the usual PICKIT2 or PICKIT3 device used to program the Renard PICS with their firmware. You can not use a PICKIT 2 or PICKIT3 to load the E1.31 bridge firmware. '''The recommended way to load the firmware in the E1.31 bridge is to use the PropPlug.'''<br><br />
====PropPlug====<br />
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]]<br><br />
You can buy a PropPlug from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=161 DIYLEDExpress] (Limited Stock) or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/product/32201 Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser].<br />
<br />
====Build your own Programming Interface====<br />
If you do not have access to a PropPlug, but you do have a PC with a true serial port, it is possible to build a simple interface to program the E1.31 bridge using simple common parts you can find from many vendors. However, the low cost PropPlug with it's USB interface works best on most modern computers.<br/><br />
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===How To Install the Firmware Programming===<br />
<br />
* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/downloads/propeller-tool-software Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.<br />
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes. <br />
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file. <br />
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex' <br />
* Connect the PropPlug to the PC and the PCB making sure that the plug is oriented correctly to match the markings on the pcb. <br />
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.<br />
<br />
==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==<br />
In order to use your E1.31 Bridge, you must install and configure the software on your pc to allow your sequencing software to speak E1.31 protocol to the bridge. Click on the following links for instructions for:<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_Vixen|Vixen]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_LOR_S3|LOR S3]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_HLS|HLS]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_LightShowPro_.28LSP.29|LSP]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Configuring the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
Once the bridge has been built and passed preliminary tests, it must be configured to operate. The configuration can be done when the bridge is connected directly to the PC or to the home network. The configuration page can be accessed via the default IP address of the controller via the browser of your choice. '''The default IP address of the bridge is 192.168.1.206''' Open up your browser and enter http://192.168.1.206 and the setup page for the bridge will appear in the browser. '''If you have changed the default IP address of the bridge, you must use that address to access the setup screen.'''<br />
<br />
===IP Address Configuration===<br />
The default IP address and mode of the bridge when initially setup is 192.168.1.206 and is a static IP address. This can be later changed thru the web interface to what ever network address you need. '''Note that all E1.31 bridges and the E682 Pixel controller all use this default IP address, so if you have multiple devices on the same network, you must change the static address of the units to avoid a conflict.'''<br />
<br />
====Temporary Manual Address Overide====<br />
When you are troubleshooting the E1,31 bridge, it is possible to force the IP address of the unit to use another setting by using the MODE and RESET buttons at power up. If you press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button you can temporarily change the IP address mode. You must release the MODE button after the correct number of flashes listed below to activate that mode.<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Green ACT LED<br/>Overide Flash Count'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''# of Flashes'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="600" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Temporary Overide IP Status<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| No Change.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The last saved STATIC IP address is enabled<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| DHCP IP address is enabled.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware Version 3.x+ Configuration==<br />
[[File:BridgeConfigPage.png]]<br />
<br />
===System Settings===<br />
[[File:SystemSettings.png]]<br />
<br />
IP Mode: Sets Static or DHCP IP address Mode<br/><br />
IP Address: The IP Address of the Bridge<br/><br />
Subnet Mask: The Subnet Mask of the Bridge<br/><br />
Gateway: The Gateway Address<br/><br />
MAC Address: The MAC Address of the MAC IC or Auto generated MAC Address<br/><br />
Mode: Sets the Bridge in Multicast or Unicast Mode<br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to any of the settings above click "Update System Settings" to save these setting.<br />
<br />
===Universe Settings===<br />
[[File:UniverseNumbers.png]]<br />
<br />
Universe Number: Defines the Universe numbers the Bridge will use, 6 are available in Multicast Mode (Unusable ones are grayed out) and 12 are available in Unicast Mode. All numbers should be unique.<br/><br />
Packets Received: The number of packages received on this universe.<br/><br />
DMX Channel Count: The number of channels sent in the E1.31 Universe packet.<br/><br />
Sequence Errors: The number of out of order packets received. NOTE: There is a bug in some of the transmitting E1.31 plugins where sequence numbers are not sequential per Universe. <br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to the Universe numbers above click "Update Universe Numbers" to save these setting.<br />
<br />
===Output Configuration===<br />
[[File:OutputConfiguration.png]]<br />
<br />
Output Number: The output jack number.<br/><br />
Protocol: The Protocol used for the output.<br/><br />
Baud (Renard Only): Sets the Renard Output Serial Baud Rate.<br/><br />
Options (Renard Only): Defines the output formate, Normally use 8N1, 8M2 is for solving issues with higher channel counts for RenW setups.<br/><br />
Channels: The number of channels on this output. (Note DMX has a max of 512 Channels)<br/><br />
Start Universe: Define the universe number of the starting channel.<br/><br />
Start Channel: The starting channel for this output.<br/><br />
End Universe: Auto calculated ending Universe Number.<br/><br />
End Channel: Auto calculated ending Channel Number.<br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to each output number click "Update" to save the changes for that output.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Version 2.x Configuration Commands==<br />
Once you access the E1.31 webpage you can configure the device settings via a command line interface (original firmware) or via a webpage drop down menu (beta firmware). In the command line interface, all commands are entered on the command line and are temporary until saved. It is critical to follow all command line changes with the "SAVE 0" command to ensure your updates are saved in the device. You must then reboot the E1.31 bridge to make the changes take effect by either hitting the RESET button, or entering "BOOT 999" . <br />
<br />
===Save===<br />
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page<br />
<br />
===Load===<br />
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.<br />
<br />
===Boot===<br />
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!<br />
<br />
===IP===<br />
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address.<br />
<br />
This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.<br />
<br />
===Subnet===<br />
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.<br />
<br />
This should also match the subnet mask of your PC Ethernet port since it is normally on the same subnet. This is typically 255.255.255.0 or 24 bits.<br />
<br />
===Gateway===<br />
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router. <br />
<br />
===DNS===<br />
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router. <br />
<br><br />
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused. <br />
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration <br />
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation. <br />
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect <br />
what happens when the system starts up. <br />
<br />
===Default===<br />
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1.<br />
<br />
DE 0 sets the addressing mode to a static or fixed IPv4 network address that is configured with the commands above. DE 1 sets the addressing mode to DHCP - you must have a working DHCP server on your network for the bridge to get an address. It is highly recommended to use a static IP address for the bridge so that you always know where to find it on the network.<br />
<br />
===Universe===<br />
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.<br />
<br />
===Protocol===<br />
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD.<br><br />
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.<br />
<br />
===Baud===<br />
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.<br />
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when<br />
the DMX protocol is selected.<br><br />
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6<br />
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.<br />
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at<br />
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.<br />
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.<br />
<br />
===Mode===<br />
"MOde" n Where n is 0 for Multicast or 1 for Unicast<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the bridge and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the bridge to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
If you are using the +5vdc option (EXT), you need to make some measurements of the 3.3v regulator or VR2.<br />
<br />
Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 5v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 3.3v regulator and power jumper and check again.<br />
<br />
Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 3.3v - if it is much above 3.3v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 3.3v regulator.<br />
<br />
If you are using the +7-24vdc option (INT), you need to make some measurements of the 5.0v regulator or VR1.<br />
<br />
Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 7-24v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 5.0v regulator and power jumper and check again.<br />
<br />
Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 5.0v - if it is much above 5.0v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 5.0v regulator. Another option is a bad 3.3v regulator. If possible, try a +5v supply with the EXT setting and determine if the 3.3v supply is OK using the measurements above. If it is, then you know the 3.3v regulator is OK. If this is not possible, remove the 3.3v regulator and measure the 5.0v regulator output again. If it is 5.0v as it should be, then the 3.3v regulator was bad and needs to be replaced.<br />
<br />
==Hardware Reset==<br />
===SOFT RESET===<br />
By pressing and releasing the RESET button, you can force a soft reboot of the E1.31 bridge and it will restart with all of the programmed parameters that you have configured the device to. This is a non destructive reboot and all settings remain intact after the reboot.<br />
<br />
===HARD RESET===<br />
It is possible to do a hard reset and erase all of the configured parameters in the E1.31 bridge and return it back to the factory default settings. To do the hard reset and lose all of your settings and return the device to the factory settings: Press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button. The ACT LED will flash a status code, after the ACT LED flashes 10 times, release the MODE button. This will wipe all device configuration settings and reset them to the default factory settings and will force the generation of a new random [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address MAC ID] for the unit if the MAC ID chip (IC 9) is not installed on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:E1.31]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Bridge&diff=12220E1.31 Bridge2015-08-30T18:09:13Z<p>Dlovely: /* Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:E1_31Bridge.png|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==<br />
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that allows your PC to communicate with a large number of Renard or DMX controllers using regular Ethernet network connections. It replaces multiple DMX or RS485 dongles with one configurable device that can be mounted in an enclosure in the yard and only requires one Ethernet Cat5 cable (or WIFI) back to your pc or home network. It allows up to 6 DMX universes or Renard networks to be easily controlled from your sequencing software with a minimum amount of wire from your show pc to your controllers. The bridge works with all Renard, DMX and LOR (using DMX) controllers.<br />
<br />
[[File:E131bridgelayout1.png |800px]]<br />
<br />
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is a method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently supports multicast and unicast streams. Multicast makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 63,999 DMX streams or 'universes' (64000->65536 are reserved) so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.<br />
<br />
The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.<br />
<br />
The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support either a "standard" DMX RJ-45 electrical output or a Renard electrical output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.<br />
<br />
==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==<br />
<br />
As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.<br />
<br />
Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.<br />
<br />
The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.<br />
<br />
For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.<br />
<br />
==E1.31 Networking Basics and Setup==<br />
For more information about how E1.31 works and how you wire up the IP networking side of an E1.31 Network look at <u>[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol| E1.31 Protocol]]</u><br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==<br />
To build the E1.31 Bridge, you need 4 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
# A [[E1.31_Bridge#Power|power supply]] to power the board. The board can use any 5-24VDC power supply.<br />
# An [[Enclosures|enclosure]] to mount the finished board in. Commonly used enclosures include the [[Enclosures#CG-500_.28CableGuard_500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-500]], [[Enclosures#CG-1000_.28CableGuard_1000_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure|CG-1000]] or the [[Enclosures#CG-1500_.28CableGuard_1500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-2000]] which are available from several [[Enclosures#Vendors|vendors]]<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1-R3</td><td>291-220-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 220ohms 0.05 </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R4-R9</td><td> 291-120-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 120ohms 0.05 </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R10-R12</td><td>291-10K-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 0.05 </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C1-C3</td><td> 140-REA470M1VBK0611P </td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 35V 47uF 20% 6.3x11mm </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C4-C12</td><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U </td><td>9</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC1</td><td>619-P8X32A-D40 </td><td>32-bit Microcontrollers - MCU DIP pkg Propeller Chip </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC2</td><td>579-24LC512-I/P </td><td>EEPROM 64kx8 - 2.5V </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC3-IC8</td><td>511-ST485BN </td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC9</td><td>579-24AA025E48-I/SN </td><td>EEPROM 2K 256 X 8 1.8V SERIAL EE, IND </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>X1</td><td>520-HCU500-20X </td><td>Crystals 5MHz 20pF </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Wiznet</td><td>950-WIZ820IO </td><td>Ethernet Modules W5200 & MAG JACK ioPLATFORM MODULE</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED1</td><td>604-WP7113GD </td><td>604-WP7113GD </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED2-LED3</td><td>604-WP7113ID </td><td> Standard LEDs - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>VR1</td><td>580-OKI78SR5/1.5W36C </td><td>DC/DC Converters 7.5W 24Vin 5Vout1 1.5A SIP Non-Iso </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>VR2</td><td>511-LF33CV </td><td>Low Dropout Regulators - LDO 3.3V 0.5A Positive </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Heatsink</td><td> 532-577202B00 </td><td>Heat Sinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>S1-S2</td><td>653-B3F-1000 </td><td>Tactile Switches 6X6 Flat 4.3mm Btn Force 100g w/o Grd </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 1</td><td>575-199640 </td><td> IC & Component Sockets 40P TIN PIN TIN CONT </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 2 - IC Socket 8</td><td>575-1104331610003000 </td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P DIP SOCKET SOCKETS </td><td>7</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>JP1</td><td>571-826629-3 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 3P SINGLE ROW </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>H1</td><td>571-826629-4 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 4P SINGLE ROW </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Wiznet 1x6 Header</td><td>517-9601066202AR </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 6P STR SR BDMNT SKT 3.0MM TAIL/7.1MMBODY </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>2x3 Output Selector</td><td> 855-M20-9980345 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 03+03 DIL VERTICAL PIN HEADER GOLD HT </td><td>12</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>TB1</td><td>571-2828372 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>J1-J6</td><td>571-5556416-1 </td><td>571-5556416-1 </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Output Shunts</td><td>517-9691020000DA </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2.54MM SHUNT </td><td>25</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=25f7a37aed Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==<br />
<br />
The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:E1_31Bridge.png|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#:[[File:E131bridgepcb.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> '''README: DO NOT install the MAC address IC unless you have a Prop Plug to load version 4.02 or greater.''' Install the MAC IC, this is the only surface mount IC. It is optional if you are not comfortable with soldering surface mount ICs. The firmware will generate a random MAC ID if the IC is not installed. The IC is polarized and the IC must be installed so that the dot on the package aligns with the dot on the pcb, the lower right side of the pad. For hints on how to solder a SMT device look [https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/General/SolderingBasics.pdf here].<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the nine 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 220 Ohm resistors (red, red, brown, gold) R1-R3. The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six 120 Ohm resistors (brown, red, brown, gold) R4-R9. The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 10K Ohm resistors (brown, black, orange, gold) R10-R12 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1. The crystal is not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two push button switches S1-S2. The switches are polarized and will only fit on the board one way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the seven 8 pin IC sockets. The sockets are polarized and have a notch on one end. It should be mounted so that the notch is oriented to the left and matching the marking on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the one 40 pin socket. The sockets are polarized and have a notch on one end. It should be mounted so that the notch is oriented to the right and matching the marking on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the green ACT LED (LED1). Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board. Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two red STATUS and POWER LEDs (LED2-LED3). Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board. Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink. The voltage regulator is polarized and goes only one way. Gently bend the leads of the regulator at the location on the leads where it changes size down at a 90 degree angle towards the flat side of the regulator. Apply thermal grease to the flat heat sink side of the regulator and the heatsink and fasten it to the pcb using a #4 screw and nut.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 3 Pin headers JP1. The short end of the header is soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 4 Pin headers H1. The short end of the header is soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the twelve 2x3 output selector pin headers. The short end of the headers are soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-14.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the power terminal block TB1. Install so that the wire openings face the edge of the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-15.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3. The capacitors are polarized and can only be installed one way. The side of the capacitor will have a stripe on the negative side. The long lead is the positive side, and it goes in the hole marked with a + to the right.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-16.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the DC-DC Converter VR1. The voltage regulator is polarized and must only be installed one way. The flat side of the voltage regulator must be mounted towards the bottom of the board, aligning with the stripe on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-17.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6. The jacks are polarized and they have to be installed with the correct orientation. Gently install all 8 pins into the holes and them firmly press down on the socket to seat the plastic pins in the holes in the PCB. <br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-18.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the left edge with the power terminal block.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-19.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the left edge with the power terminal block.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-20.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter to the right.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-21.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the WizNet adapter with the '''RJ45 socket facing the Propeller IC.''' <br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-22.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> On initial power up and test perform a Hard Reset to initialize the settings. To do a hard reset Press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button. The ACT LED will flash a status code, after the ACT LED flashes 10 times, release the MODE button. This will wipe all device configuration settings and reset them to the default factory settings and will force the generation of a new random [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address MAC ID] for the unit if the MAC ID chip (IC 9) is not installed on the board.<br />
#:[[File:E1 31Bridge Reset.png|300px]]<br />
<br />
H2 will be unpopulated as it is for future expansion.<br />
<br />
<br />
Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.<br />
<br />
====Power Jumper - JP1====<br />
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).<br />
<br />
You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.<br />
<br />
====Output Configuration Jumpers====<br />
[[file:E1_31Bridge_REN.png |400px]]<br />
[[File:E1_31Bridge_REN_Zoom.png |300px]]<br />
<br />
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. These jumpers set the wiring configuration on their respective output jacks. If you want a DMX wiring output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard wiring output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. '''It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output. You must set the DMX or Renard output protocol via the Bridge configuration settings.'''<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Output Jumper Settings'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #'''<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''RJ45 Connectors'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''REN'''<br />
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''DMX'''<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA+ <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA-<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA- <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA+ <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the software protocol for DMX and use the REN output jumper settings. You will be required build a jumper cable to swap pins 4 and 5 between the two ends of the jumper because LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.<br />
<br />
==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least 350 mA. Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
===Power up LED Activity===<br />
On initial power up the green ACT and the red STATUS LEDs flash a sequence of codes to help identify the status and configuration of the bridge. After they go thru their startup flash sequence, the the green ACT LED flashes when ever it sees IP data traffic and the red LED stays lit to signify that the configuration webpage is accessible. The Green ACT LED startup flash pattern are:<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Green ACT LED<br/>Startup Flash Count'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''# of Flashes'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="600" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| IP Status<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is DHCP<br/> and the bridge acquired an IP address from a DHCP server.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is STATIC<br/> and the STATIC address programmed into the bridge is being used.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the bridge has acquired an IP address from a DHCP server. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the STATIC address programmed into the bridge is being used. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is DHCP and has been overridden due to no response from the DHCP server<br/> and the IP address of 169.254.74.73 is being used. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the IP address of 169.254.74.73 is being used due to the lack of response from a DHCP server.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Programming the EEPROM==<br />
The EEPROM ships from DIYLedexpress with the firmware installed. If you buy the parts from another vendor, or you want to update the firmware to a later version, you must have a PropPlug programming tool.<br />
<br />
'''The current version of the firmware is v4.01 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24934&d=1412041008 here].'''<br />
<br />
4.01<br />
* Test patterns (All Red, Green, or Blue, and a Red, Green or Blue chase)<br />
* Timeout feature that will turn off all channels if the bridge has not received any data on any listening universe for 1-60 minutes<br />
<br />
4.00<br />
* WS2811 Pixel Support<br />
* GECE Pixel Support<br />
* Web Firmware Updates - Update the Firmware without a Prop Plug, this is done with a lightweight Java application.<br />
* Real Time Parameter Updates - Change RGB order, Start Universe, Total number of channels and even the Protocol on the fly without rebooting!<br />
* RGB Reordering - Reorders sets of three channels for all supported protocols.<br />
<br />
<br />
Past Versions:<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24935&d=1412041109 4.00]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20701&d=1381775613 3.04]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20122&d=1377871931 3.03]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19341&d=1369505188 2.06]<br />
<br />
The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it.<br><br />
<br />
===Programming Tools Required===<br />
The Propeller processor uses a different programming interface then the usual PICKIT2 or PICKIT3 device used to program the Renard PICS with their firmware. You can not use a PICKIT 2 or PICKIT3 to load the E1.31 bridge firmware. '''The recommended way to load the firmware in the E1.31 bridge is to use the PropPlug.'''<br><br />
====PropPlug====<br />
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]]<br><br />
You can buy a PropPlug from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=161 DIYLEDExpress] (Limited Stock) or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/product/32201 Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser].<br />
<br />
====Build your own Programming Interface====<br />
If you do not have access to a PropPlug, but you do have a PC with a true serial port, it is possible to build a simple interface to program the E1.31 bridge using simple common parts you can find from many vendors. However, the low cost PropPlug with it's USB interface works best on most modern computers.<br/><br />
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===How To Install the Firmware Programming===<br />
<br />
* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/downloads/propeller-tool-software Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.<br />
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes. <br />
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file. <br />
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex' <br />
* Connect the PropPlug to the PC and the PCB making sure that the plug is oriented correctly to match the markings on the pcb. <br />
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.<br />
<br />
==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==<br />
In order to use your E1.31 Bridge, you must install and configure the software on your pc to allow your sequencing software to speak E1.31 protocol to the bridge. Click on the following links for instructions for:<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_Vixen|Vixen]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_LOR_S3|LOR S3]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_HLS|HLS]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_LightShowPro_.28LSP.29|LSP]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Configuring the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
Once the bridge has been built and passed preliminary tests, it must be configured to operate. The configuration can be done when the bridge is connected directly to the PC or to the home network. The configuration page can be accessed via the default IP address of the controller via the browser of your choice. '''The default IP address of the bridge is 192.168.1.206''' Open up your browser and enter http://192.168.1.206 and the setup page for the bridge will appear in the browser. '''If you have changed the default IP address of the bridge, you must use that address to access the setup screen.'''<br />
<br />
===IP Address Configuration===<br />
The default IP address and mode of the bridge when initially setup is 192.168.1.206 and is a static IP address. This can be later changed thru the web interface to what ever network address you need. '''Note that all E1.31 bridges and the E682 Pixel controller all use this default IP address, so if you have multiple devices on the same network, you must change the static address of the units to avoid a conflict.'''<br />
<br />
====Temporary Manual Address Overide====<br />
When you are troubleshooting the E1,31 bridge, it is possible to force the IP address of the unit to use another setting by using the MODE and RESET buttons at power up. If you press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button you can temporarily change the IP address mode. You must release the MODE button after the correct number of flashes listed below to activate that mode.<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Green ACT LED<br/>Overide Flash Count'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''# of Flashes'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="600" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Temporary Overide IP Status<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| No Change.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The last saved STATIC IP address is enabled<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| DHCP IP address is enabled.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware Version 3.x+ Configuration==<br />
[[File:BridgeConfigPage.png]]<br />
<br />
===System Settings===<br />
[[File:SystemSettings.png]]<br />
<br />
IP Mode: Sets Static or DHCP IP address Mode<br/><br />
IP Address: The IP Address of the Bridge<br/><br />
Subnet Mask: The Subnet Mask of the Bridge<br/><br />
Gateway: The Gateway Address<br/><br />
MAC Address: The MAC Address of the MAC IC or Auto generated MAC Address<br/><br />
Mode: Sets the Bridge in Multicast or Unicast Mode<br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to any of the settings above click "Update System Settings" to save these setting.<br />
<br />
===Universe Settings===<br />
[[File:UniverseNumbers.png]]<br />
<br />
Universe Number: Defines the Universe numbers the Bridge will use, 6 are available in Multicast Mode (Unusable ones are grayed out) and 12 are available in Unicast Mode. All numbers should be unique.<br/><br />
Packets Received: The number of packages received on this universe.<br/><br />
DMX Channel Count: The number of channels sent in the E1.31 Universe packet.<br/><br />
Sequence Errors: The number of out of order packets received. NOTE: There is a bug in some of the transmitting E1.31 plugins where sequence numbers are not sequential per Universe. <br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to the Universe numbers above click "Update Universe Numbers" to save these setting.<br />
<br />
===Output Configuration===<br />
[[File:OutputConfiguration.png]]<br />
<br />
Output Number: The output jack number.<br/><br />
Protocol: The Protocol used for the output.<br/><br />
Baud (Renard Only): Sets the Renard Output Serial Baud Rate.<br/><br />
Options (Renard Only): Defines the output formate, Normally use 8N1, 8M2 is for solving issues with higher channel counts for RenW setups.<br/><br />
Channels: The number of channels on this output. (Note DMX has a max of 512 Channels)<br/><br />
Start Universe: Define the universe number of the starting channel.<br/><br />
Start Channel: The starting channel for this output.<br/><br />
End Universe: Auto calculated ending Universe Number.<br/><br />
End Channel: Auto calculated ending Channel Number.<br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to each output number click "Update" to save the changes for that output.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Version 2.x Configuration Commands==<br />
Once you access the E1.31 webpage you can configure the device settings via a command line interface (original firmware) or via a webpage drop down menu (beta firmware). In the command line interface, all commands are entered on the command line and are temporary until saved. It is critical to follow all command line changes with the "SAVE 0" command to ensure your updates are saved in the device. You must then reboot the E1.31 bridge to make the changes take effect by either hitting the RESET button, or entering "BOOT 999" . <br />
<br />
===Save===<br />
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page<br />
<br />
===Load===<br />
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.<br />
<br />
===Boot===<br />
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!<br />
<br />
===IP===<br />
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address.<br />
<br />
This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.<br />
<br />
===Subnet===<br />
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.<br />
<br />
This should also match the subnet mask of your PC Ethernet port since it is normally on the same subnet. This is typically 255.255.255.0 or 24 bits.<br />
<br />
===Gateway===<br />
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router. <br />
<br />
===DNS===<br />
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router. <br />
<br><br />
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused. <br />
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration <br />
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation. <br />
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect <br />
what happens when the system starts up. <br />
<br />
===Default===<br />
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1.<br />
<br />
DE 0 sets the addressing mode to a static or fixed IPv4 network address that is configured with the commands above. DE 1 sets the addressing mode to DHCP - you must have a working DHCP server on your network for the bridge to get an address. It is highly recommended to use a static IP address for the bridge so that you always know where to find it on the network.<br />
<br />
===Universe===<br />
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.<br />
<br />
===Protocol===<br />
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD.<br><br />
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.<br />
<br />
===Baud===<br />
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.<br />
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when<br />
the DMX protocol is selected.<br><br />
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6<br />
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.<br />
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at<br />
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.<br />
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.<br />
<br />
===Mode===<br />
"MOde" n Where n is 0 for Multicast or 1 for Unicast<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the bridge and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the bridge to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
If you are using the +5vdc option (EXT), you need to make some measurements of the 3.3v regulator or VR2.<br />
<br />
Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 5v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 3.3v regulator and power jumper and check again.<br />
<br />
Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 3.3v - if it is much above 3.3v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 3.3v regulator.<br />
<br />
If you are using the +7-24vdc option (INT), you need to make some measurements of the 5.0v regulator or VR1.<br />
<br />
Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 7-24v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 5.0v regulator and power jumper and check again.<br />
<br />
Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 5.0v - if it is much above 5.0v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 5.0v regulator. Another option is a bad 3.3v regulator. If possible, try a +5v supply with the EXT setting and determine if the 3.3v supply is OK using the measurements above. If it is, then you know the 3.3v regulator is OK. If this is not possible, remove the 3.3v regulator and measure the 5.0v regulator output again. If it is 5.0v as it should be, then the 3.3v regulator was bad and needs to be replaced.<br />
<br />
==Hardware Reset==<br />
===SOFT RESET===<br />
By pressing and releasing the RESET button, you can force a soft reboot of the E1.31 bridge and it will restart with all of the programmed parameters that you have configured the device to. This is a non destructive reboot and all settings remain intact after the reboot.<br />
<br />
===HARD RESET===<br />
It is possible to do a hard reset and erase all of the configured parameters in the E1.31 bridge and return it back to the factory default settings. To do the hard reset and lose all of your settings and return the device to the factory settings: Press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button. The ACT LED will flash a status code, after the ACT LED flashes 10 times, release the MODE button. This will wipe all device configuration settings and reset them to the default factory settings and will force the generation of a new random [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address MAC ID] for the unit if the MAC ID chip (IC 9) is not installed on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:E1.31]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=E1.31_Bridge&diff=11869E1.31 Bridge2014-09-30T01:44:33Z<p>Dlovely: /* Programming the EEPROM */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:E1_31Bridge.png|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=6 Port E1.31 Bridge Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge?==<br />
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that allows your PC to communicate with a large number of Renard or DMX controllers using regular Ethernet network connections. It replaces multiple DMX or RS485 dongles with one configurable device that can be mounted in an enclosure in the yard and only requires one Ethernet Cat5 cable (or WIFI) back to your pc or home network. It allows up to 6 DMX universes or Renard networks to be easily controlled from your sequencing software with a minimum amount of wire from your show pc to your controllers. The bridge works with all Renard, DMX and LOR (using DMX) controllers.<br />
<br />
[[File:E131bridgelayout1.png |800px]]<br />
<br />
The 6-port E1.31 bridge is a device that takes in an E1.31 stream from your network and converts (or 'bridges') that to multiple DMX or Renard output streams. E1.31 or sACN (Streaming Architecture for Control Networks) is a method of multiplexing multiple DMX streams over your network using unicast or multicast UDP packets. The 6-port bridge currently supports multicast and unicast streams. Multicast makes it simpler to configure but has drawbacks in very large configurations (10's of streams). E1.31 can support 63,999 DMX streams or 'universes' (64000->65536 are reserved) so it has a virtually unlimited amount of expansion available.<br />
<br />
The 6-port bridge can handle up to six E1.31 universes, each of which get directed to a particular port. By default the bridge is configured to send universe '1' to port number 1, universe '2' to port number 2 and so on but you can assign any of the 64k universe numbers to any port if you wish. The bridge takes in the particular universe stream and either outputs it directly out each port for DMX output or it performs a conversion to Renard protocol. The protocol used depends of course on what you plan to use for controllers on the ports that you have configured. You can configure any mix of DMX and Renard protocols to any port.<br />
<br />
The bridge has another feature so that each physical output can be re-wired to support either a "standard" DMX RJ-45 electrical output or a Renard electrical output without resorting to making custom cables to support either. The output of the bridge is always RS-485 in either case. Note that regardless if your Renard controller is running standard Renard/Serial code or Renard/DMX code, the jumpers should always be configured for Renard since the physical interface does not change.<br />
<br />
==How does the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge work?==<br />
<br />
As mentioned above, the bridge takes in a multicast E1.31 UDP stream, determines which stream belongs to which port (if any) and sends that data out the appropriate port. The E1.31 stream enters the bridge via an Ethernet port on the Wiz820io module and is converted to a serial signal that is sent on to the Propeller microcontroller chip. Your sequencer or streaming tool sends multicast packets with an address of 239.255.<UHB>.<ULB> where UHB is the Universe high byte and LHB is the Universe low byte. As an example, the address for universe '1' would be 239.255.0.1. This is why using multicast addressing can be simpler to configure since this address is always the same for any device using that universe. The disadvantage of using multicast is that the packets are sent to every device on the subnet regardless if they are destined for it or not. This means the receiving device must read in the header for each packet or have the means to block these within hardware. Depending on the device and the number of universes of data sent it can swamp the device and possibly end up causing a loss of data. Note however that this is not an issue for most networks until you get into the dozens of universes so it's not an issue for most users.<br />
<br />
Unicast is another method of sending E1.31 packets. For this method, the IP address used to manage/configure the device is also used for the data packets. In this case, the packets are sent directly to the device instead of being broadcast across the entire subnet.<br />
<br />
The Parallax Propeller microcontroller determines if the address matches one of the configured ports universe numbers and if it does, reads in the entire DMX stream and sends them out that particular port either as-is or after conversion to Renard protocol. The Propeller chip is quite powerful, it is essentially eight separate microcontrollers in a single package. These internal processors or COGs as they are called can each run completely different (or the same) code. This allows you to partition different functions to different COGs within your code. For more information on the Propeller, visit the Parallax site.<br />
<br />
For the bridge, the COGs are used to support both the multiple input processing as well as the six port output processing.<br />
<br />
==E1.31 Networking Basics and Setup==<br />
For more information about how E1.31 works and how you wire up the IP networking side of an E1.31 Network look at <u>[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol| E1.31 Protocol]]</u><br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==6 Port E1.31 Bridge Parts==<br />
To build the E1.31 Bridge, you need 4 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=158 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
# A [[E1.31_Bridge#Power|power supply]] to power the board. The board can use any 5-24VDC power supply.<br />
# An [[Enclosures|enclosure]] to mount the finished board in. Commonly used enclosures include the [[Enclosures#CG-500_.28CableGuard_500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-500]], [[Enclosures#CG-1000_.28CableGuard_1000_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure|CG-1000]] or the [[Enclosures#CG-1500_.28CableGuard_1500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-2000]] which are available from several [[Enclosures#Vendors|vendors]]<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1-R3</td><td>291-220-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 220ohms 0.05 </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R4-R9</td><td> 291-120-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 120ohms 0.05 </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R10-R12</td><td>291-10K-RC </td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 0.05 </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C1-C3</td><td> 140-REA470M1VBK0611P </td><td>Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 35V 47uF 20% 6.3x11mm </td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C4-C12</td><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U </td><td>9</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC1</td><td>619-P8X32A-D40 </td><td>32-bit Microcontrollers - MCU DIP pkg Propeller Chip </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC2</td><td>579-24LC512-I/P </td><td>EEPROM 64kx8 - 2.5V </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC3-IC8</td><td>511-ST485BN </td><td>Buffers & Line Drivers Hi-Spd Lo Pwr Trans </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC9</td><td>579-24AA025E48-I/SN </td><td>EEPROM 2K 256 X 8 1.8V SERIAL EE, IND </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>X1</td><td>520-HCU500-20X </td><td>Crystals 5MHz 20pF </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Wiznet</td><td>950-WIZ820IO </td><td>Ethernet Modules W5200 & MAG JACK ioPLATFORM MODULE</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED1</td><td>604-WP7113GD </td><td>604-WP7113GD </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED2-LED3</td><td>604-WP7113ID </td><td> Standard LEDs - Through Hole HI EFF RED DIFFUSED </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>VR1</td><td>580-OKI78SR5/1.5W36C </td><td>DC/DC Converters 7.5W 24Vin 5Vout1 1.5A SIP Non-Iso </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>VR2</td><td>511-LF33CV </td><td>Low Dropout Regulators - LDO 3.3V 0.5A Positive </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Heatsink</td><td> 532-577202B00 </td><td>Heat Sinks TO-220 HORIZ/VERT SLIM CHANNEL STYLE </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>S1-S2</td><td>653-B3F-1000 </td><td>Tactile Switches 6X6 Flat 4.3mm Btn Force 100g w/o Grd </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 1</td><td>575-199640 </td><td> IC & Component Sockets 40P TIN PIN TIN CONT </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 2 - IC Socket 8</td><td>575-1104331610003000 </td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P DIP SOCKET SOCKETS </td><td>7</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>JP1</td><td>571-826629-3 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 3P SINGLE ROW </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>H1</td><td>571-826629-4 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 4P SINGLE ROW </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Wiznet 1x6 Header</td><td>517-9601066202AR </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 6P STR SR BDMNT SKT 3.0MM TAIL/7.1MMBODY </td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>2x3 Output Selector</td><td> 855-M20-9980345 </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 03+03 DIL VERTICAL PIN HEADER GOLD HT </td><td>12</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>TB1</td><td>571-2828372 </td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.08MM PCB MOUNT 2P </td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>J1-J6</td><td>571-5556416-1 </td><td>571-5556416-1 </td><td>6</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Output Shunts</td><td>517-9691020000DA </td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2.54MM SHUNT </td><td>25</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=25f7a37aed Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge==<br />
<br />
The 6 Port E1.31 Bridge requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:E1_31Bridge.png|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#:[[File:E131bridgepcb.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the MAC IC, this is the only surface mount IC. It is optional if you are not comfortable with soldering surface mount ICs. The firmware will generate a random MAC ID if the IC is not installed. The IC is polarized and the IC must be installed so that the dot on the package aligns with the dot on the pcb, the lower right side of the pad. For hints on how to solder a SMT device look [https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/General/SolderingBasics.pdf here].<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the nine 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C4-C12. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 220 Ohm resistors (red, red, brown, gold) R1-R3. The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six 120 Ohm resistors (brown, red, brown, gold) R4-R9. The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 10K Ohm resistors (brown, black, orange, gold) R10-R12 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 5Mhz Crystal X1. The crystal is not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two push button switches S1-S2. The switches are polarized and will only fit on the board one way.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the seven 8 pin IC sockets. The sockets are polarized and have a notch on one end. It should be mounted so that the notch is oriented to the left and matching the marking on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the one 40 pin socket. The sockets are polarized and have a notch on one end. It should be mounted so that the notch is oriented to the right and matching the marking on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the green ACT LED (LED1). Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board. Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two red STATUS and POWER LEDs (LED2-LED3). Note that the LED is polarized and the long lead should face towards the top of the board. Note: silkscreen shows "FLAT" side of the LED, this can also be used to check for proper orientation<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 3.3V Regulator VR2 with the heat sink. The voltage regulator is polarized and goes only one way. Gently bend the leads of the regulator at the location on the leads where it changes size down at a 90 degree angle towards the flat side of the regulator. Apply thermal grease to the flat heat sink side of the regulator and the heatsink and fasten it to the pcb using a #4 screw and nut.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 3 Pin headers JP1. The short end of the header is soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the 4 Pin headers H1. The short end of the header is soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two WizNet 1x6 pin headers.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the twelve 2x3 output selector pin headers. The short end of the headers are soldered to the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-14.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the power terminal block TB1. Install so that the wire openings face the edge of the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-15.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the three 47uF Capacitors C1-C3. The capacitors are polarized and can only be installed one way. The side of the capacitor will have a stripe on the negative side. The long lead is the positive side, and it goes in the hole marked with a + to the right.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-16.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the DC-DC Converter VR1. The voltage regulator is polarized and must only be installed one way. The flat side of the voltage regulator must be mounted towards the bottom of the board, aligning with the stripe on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-17.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six RJ45 jacks J1-J6. The jacks are polarized and they have to be installed with the correct orientation. Gently install all 8 pins into the holes and them firmly press down on the socket to seat the plastic pins in the holes in the PCB. <br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-18.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the six RT485BN in IC3-IC8 with the notches facing the left edge with the power terminal block.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-19.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the EEPROM in IC2 with the notch facing the left edge with the power terminal block.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-20.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the Propeller in IC1 with the notch facing the WizNet adapter to the right.<br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-21.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the WizNet adapter with the '''RJ45 socket facing the Propeller IC.''' <br />
#:[[File:E131Bridge1-3-Step-22.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> On initial power up and test perform a Hard Reset to initialize the settings. To do a hard reset Press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button. The ACT LED will flash a status code, after the ACT LED flashes 10 times, release the MODE button. This will wipe all device configuration settings and reset them to the default factory settings and will force the generation of a new random [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address MAC ID] for the unit if the MAC ID chip (IC 9) is not installed on the board.<br />
#:[[File:E1 31Bridge Reset.png|300px]]<br />
<br />
H2 will be unpopulated as it is for future expansion.<br />
<br />
<br />
Congratulations! That completes the construction of the 6 Port E1.31 Bridge!<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
There are two types of jumper groups on the E1.31 bridge. The first is to set the input voltage and the others to set the desired DMX or Renard physical output.<br />
<br />
====Power Jumper - JP1====<br />
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).<br />
<br />
You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board. The Propeller chip uses 3.3v and would be fine but the RS-485 transceivers are 5v devices and would be probably be damaged.<br />
<br />
====Output Configuration Jumpers====<br />
[[file:E1_31Bridge_REN.png |400px]]<br />
[[File:E1_31Bridge_REN_Zoom.png |300px]]<br />
<br />
Each port has a set of four separate jumpers. These jumpers set the wiring configuration on their respective output jacks. If you want a DMX wiring output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "DMX" side. If you want a Renard wiring output, you need to put all four jumpers to the "REN" side. '''It is important that all four jumpers are in the same position for that port. Note that the protocol for the port is different than the wired output. You must set the DMX or Renard output protocol via the Bridge configuration settings.'''<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Output Jumper Settings'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #'''<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''RJ45 Connectors'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''REN'''<br />
!width="60" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''DMX'''<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA+ <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA-<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA- <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS-485 DATA+ <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| SIGNAL GND<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| NC <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
You can use the bridge to drive LOR controllers capable of supporting DMX as well. The simplest method is to configure the software protocol for DMX and use the REN output jumper settings. You will be required build a jumper cable to swap pins 4 and 5 between the two ends of the jumper because LOR has these signals swapped. You may also want to connect pin 6 from the LOR to pins 1 or 2 if using the REN output.<br />
<br />
==Powering the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
As mentioned above, the bridge can be powered with either a well regulated +5vdc supply or an unregulated/regulated +7-24vdc supply. The power supply should supply at least 350 mA. Configure the power jumper appropriately before applying power.<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
===Power up LED Activity===<br />
On initial power up the green ACT and the red STATUS LEDs flash a sequence of codes to help identify the status and configuration of the bridge. After they go thru their startup flash sequence, the the green ACT LED flashes when ever it sees IP data traffic and the red LED stays lit to signify that the configuration webpage is accessible. The Green ACT LED startup flash pattern are:<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Green ACT LED<br/>Startup Flash Count'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''# of Flashes'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="600" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| IP Status<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is DHCP<br/> and the bridge acquired an IP address from a DHCP server.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is STATIC<br/> and the STATIC address programmed into the bridge is being used.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the bridge has acquired an IP address from a DHCP server. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the STATIC address programmed into the bridge is being used. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode is DHCP and has been overridden due to no response from the DHCP server<br/> and the IP address of 169.254.74.73 is being used. <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The default bridge IP address mode has been overridden due to a button press<br/> and the IP address of 169.254.74.73 is being used due to the lack of response from a DHCP server.<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Programming the EEPROM==<br />
The EEPROM ships from DIYLedexpress with the firmware installed. If you buy the parts from another vendor, or you want to update the firmware to a later version, you must have a PropPlug programming tool.<br />
<br />
'''The current version of the firmware is v4.01 and you can download it [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24934&d=1412041008 here].'''<br />
<br />
4.01<br />
* Test patterns (All Red, Green, or Blue, and a Red, Green or Blue chase)<br />
* Timeout feature that will turn off all channels if the bridge has not received any data on any listening universe for 1-60 minutes<br />
<br />
4.00<br />
* WS2811 Pixel Support<br />
* GECE Pixel Support<br />
* Web Firmware Updates - Update the Firmware without a Prop Plug, this is done with a lightweight Java application.<br />
* Real Time Parameter Updates - Change RGB order, Start Universe, Total number of channels and even the Protocol on the fly without rebooting!<br />
* RGB Reordering - Reorders sets of three channels for all supported protocols.<br />
<br />
<br />
Past Versions:<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24935&d=1412041109 4.00]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20701&d=1381775613 3.04]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20122&d=1377871931 3.03]<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19341&d=1369505188 2.06]<br />
<br />
The Programming port on the Bridge is the 4 pin header near the WizNet adapter. Match up the silk screen labels with those on the Prop Plug. You will need to externally power the bridge when programming it.<br><br />
<br />
===Programming Tools Required===<br />
The Propeller processor uses a different programming interface then the usual PICKIT2 or PICKIT3 device used to program the Renard PICS with their firmware. You can not use a PICKIT 2 or PICKIT3 to load the E1.31 bridge firmware. '''The recommended way to load the firmware in the E1.31 bridge is to use the PropPlug.'''<br><br />
====PropPlug====<br />
[[File:PropPlug.jpg]]<br><br />
You can buy a PropPlug from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=161 DIYLEDExpress] (Limited Stock) or find it at [http://www.parallax.com/product/32201 Parallax] or [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Parallax/32201/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7FrWooXVB14dwtuxqLs8Y Mouser].<br />
<br />
====Build your own Programming Interface====<br />
If you do not have access to a PropPlug, but you do have a PC with a true serial port, it is possible to build a simple interface to program the E1.31 bridge using simple common parts you can find from many vendors. However, the low cost PropPlug with it's USB interface works best on most modern computers.<br/><br />
[[File:SerialToPropeller.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===How To Install the Firmware Programming===<br />
<br />
* Download the [http://www.parallax.com/downloads/propeller-tool-software Parallax Propeller Tool] and install it.<br />
* Run the Propeller Tool application and it will ask of you want to associate .eeprom files with the application, Say Yes. <br />
* You can close the Propeller Tool application and double click on the .eeprom file you downloaded or from within the application go to File->Open and change the 'Files of type' to 'Propeller Applications' and open the Bridge_v2.02.eeprom file. <br />
* A 'Object Info' screen will open, if not already enabled click 'Show Hex' <br />
* Connect the PropPlug to the PC and the PCB making sure that the plug is oriented correctly to match the markings on the pcb. <br />
* Program the EEPROM on the Bridge by selecting 'Load EEPROM' and you are done.<br />
<br />
==Configuring and installing the E1.31 Driver==<br />
In order to use your E1.31 Bridge, you must install and configure the software on your pc to allow your sequencing software to speak E1.31 protocol to the bridge. Click on the following links for instructions for:<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_Vixen|Vixen]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_LOR_S3|LOR S3]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_HLS|HLS]]<br />
*[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol#Using_E1.31_with_LightShowPro_.28LSP.29|LSP]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Configuring the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
Once the bridge has been built and passed preliminary tests, it must be configured to operate. The configuration can be done when the bridge is connected directly to the PC or to the home network. The configuration page can be accessed via the default IP address of the controller via the browser of your choice. '''The default IP address of the bridge is 192.168.1.206''' Open up your browser and enter http://192.168.1.206 and the setup page for the bridge will appear in the browser. '''If you have changed the default IP address of the bridge, you must use that address to access the setup screen.'''<br />
<br />
===IP Address Configuration===<br />
The default IP address and mode of the bridge when initially setup is 192.168.1.206 and is a static IP address. This can be later changed thru the web interface to what ever network address you need. '''Note that all E1.31 bridges and the E682 Pixel controller all use this default IP address, so if you have multiple devices on the same network, you must change the static address of the units to avoid a conflict.'''<br />
<br />
====Temporary Manual Address Overide====<br />
When you are troubleshooting the E1,31 bridge, it is possible to force the IP address of the unit to use another setting by using the MODE and RESET buttons at power up. If you press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button you can temporarily change the IP address mode. You must release the MODE button after the correct number of flashes listed below to activate that mode.<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Green ACT LED<br/>Overide Flash Count'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''# of Flashes'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="600" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Temporary Overide IP Status<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| No Change.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| The last saved STATIC IP address is enabled<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| DHCP IP address is enabled.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Firmware Version 3.x+ Configuration==<br />
[[File:BridgeConfigPage.png]]<br />
<br />
===System Settings===<br />
[[File:SystemSettings.png]]<br />
<br />
IP Mode: Sets Static or DHCP IP address Mode<br/><br />
IP Address: The IP Address of the Bridge<br/><br />
Subnet Mask: The Subnet Mask of the Bridge<br/><br />
Gateway: The Gateway Address<br/><br />
MAC Address: The MAC Address of the MAC IC or Auto generated MAC Address<br/><br />
Mode: Sets the Bridge in Multicast or Unicast Mode<br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to any of the settings above click "Update System Settings" to save these setting.<br />
<br />
===Universe Settings===<br />
[[File:UniverseNumbers.png]]<br />
<br />
Universe Number: Defines the Universe numbers the Bridge will use, 6 are available in Multicast Mode (Unusable ones are grayed out) and 12 are available in Unicast Mode. All numbers should be unique.<br/><br />
Packets Received: The number of packages received on this universe.<br/><br />
DMX Channel Count: The number of channels sent in the E1.31 Universe packet.<br/><br />
Sequence Errors: The number of out of order packets received. NOTE: There is a bug in some of the transmitting E1.31 plugins where sequence numbers are not sequential per Universe. <br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to the Universe numbers above click "Update Universe Numbers" to save these setting.<br />
<br />
===Output Configuration===<br />
[[File:OutputConfiguration.png]]<br />
<br />
Output Number: The output jack number.<br/><br />
Protocol: The Protocol used for the output.<br/><br />
Baud (Renard Only): Sets the Renard Output Serial Baud Rate.<br/><br />
Options (Renard Only): Defines the output formate, Normally use 8N1, 8M2 is for solving issues with higher channel counts for RenW setups.<br/><br />
Channels: The number of channels on this output. (Note DMX has a max of 512 Channels)<br/><br />
Start Universe: Define the universe number of the starting channel.<br/><br />
Start Channel: The starting channel for this output.<br/><br />
End Universe: Auto calculated ending Universe Number.<br/><br />
End Channel: Auto calculated ending Channel Number.<br/><br />
<br />
After making changes to each output number click "Update" to save the changes for that output.<br />
<br />
==Firmware Version 2.x Configuration Commands==<br />
Once you access the E1.31 webpage you can configure the device settings via a command line interface (original firmware) or via a webpage drop down menu (beta firmware). In the command line interface, all commands are entered on the command line and are temporary until saved. It is critical to follow all command line changes with the "SAVE 0" command to ensure your updates are saved in the device. You must then reboot the E1.31 bridge to make the changes take effect by either hitting the RESET button, or entering "BOOT 999" . <br />
<br />
===Save===<br />
'''SAve''' n where n is a memory page number from 0 to 7. Writes the currently displayed configuration to the specified memory page<br />
<br />
===Load===<br />
'''LOad''' n where n is a memory page number, 0-7. Loads the specified memory page and displays the information on the web page.<br />
<br />
===Boot===<br />
'''BOot''' 999 will restart the system. Make sure you do a SAVE first if you have made any changes or your changes will be lost!<br />
<br />
===IP===<br />
'''IP''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid IPv4 address.<br />
<br />
This should be set within the same subnet as your sequencer PC Ethernet port unless you have routing enabled (not recommended). It is recommended that you have your show network on a separate subnet from your regular home network. This ensures you will not have issues with either interfering with the other. Note that this address is only used to configure/monitor the bridge - it is not used for the sequencer data itself.<br />
<br />
===Subnet===<br />
'''SUbnet''' a.b.c.d or '''SUbnet''' n where a.b.c.d is any valid subnet mask value, or n is the size of the subnet in bits.<br />
<br />
This should also match the subnet mask of your PC Ethernet port since it is normally on the same subnet. This is typically 255.255.255.0 or 24 bits.<br />
<br />
===Gateway===<br />
'''GAteway''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router. <br />
<br />
===DNS===<br />
'''DNs''' a.b.c.d where a.b.c.d is any valid internet address. Usually the address of your router. <br />
<br><br />
If you are only using DHCP (not recommended), you can leave the static IP areas unused. <br />
Network addressing (static or DHCP IP) is only needed to access the configuration <br />
page with a web browser. Once configured, no IP address is needed for normal operation. <br />
The Default IP Mode, Web Server Mode, No Data Timeout, and Test Pattern commands affect <br />
what happens when the system starts up. <br />
<br />
===Default===<br />
'''DEfault''' n where n is 0 or 1.<br />
<br />
DE 0 sets the addressing mode to a static or fixed IPv4 network address that is configured with the commands above. DE 1 sets the addressing mode to DHCP - you must have a working DHCP server on your network for the bridge to get an address. It is highly recommended to use a static IP address for the bridge so that you always know where to find it on the network.<br />
<br />
===Universe===<br />
'''UNiverse''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is universe from 1 to 63999.<br />
<br />
===Protocol===<br />
The Protocol command is used to set the protocol for each of the six output RJ45 jacks. The current valid protocols are DMX and RENARD.<br><br />
'''PRotocol''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6 and n is 1 for DMX protocol and 2 is for Renard protocol.<br />
<br />
===Baud===<br />
The Baud command is used to set the baud rate for each of the four output RJ45 jacks.<br />
NOTE: This command is only used for the Renard protocol. Baud rate will not be displayed when<br />
the DMX protocol is selected.<br><br />
'''BAud''' b n Where b is the RJ45 output jack number, from 1 to 6<br />
and n is 1 for a baud rate of 57,600 or 2 is for a baud rate of 115,200.<br />
The Renard protocol refresh rate at 57,600bps for 512 channels is approximately 90ms and at<br />
115,200bps the refresh rate for 512 channels is approximately 45ms.<br />
The DMX protocol refresh rate is preset to 25ms.<br />
<br />
===Mode===<br />
"MOde" n Where n is 0 for Multicast or 1 for Unicast<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new 6 Port E1.31 Bridge, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the bridge and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the bridge to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
If you are using the +5vdc option (EXT), you need to make some measurements of the 3.3v regulator or VR2.<br />
<br />
Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 5v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 3.3v regulator and power jumper and check again.<br />
<br />
Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 3.3v - if it is much above 3.3v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 3.3v regulator.<br />
<br />
If you are using the +7-24vdc option (INT), you need to make some measurements of the 5.0v regulator or VR1.<br />
<br />
Measure the input voltage between pins 1 and 2 - it should measure 7-24v (same as the input) - if it isn't then reflow the terminal block, 5.0v regulator and power jumper and check again.<br />
<br />
Measure the output voltage between pins 3 and 2 - it should measure 5.0v - if it is much above 5.0v, it's likely the regulator is bad. If it is close to 0v, you may have a short somewhere on the board. Inspect the traces coming from pin 3 over the board and look for solder bridges. If you cannot find a short, then you may have to replace the 5.0v regulator. Another option is a bad 3.3v regulator. If possible, try a +5v supply with the EXT setting and determine if the 3.3v supply is OK using the measurements above. If it is, then you know the 3.3v regulator is OK. If this is not possible, remove the 3.3v regulator and measure the 5.0v regulator output again. If it is 5.0v as it should be, then the 3.3v regulator was bad and needs to be replaced.<br />
<br />
==Hardware Reset==<br />
===SOFT RESET===<br />
By pressing and releasing the RESET button, you can force a soft reboot of the E1.31 bridge and it will restart with all of the programmed parameters that you have configured the device to. This is a non destructive reboot and all settings remain intact after the reboot.<br />
<br />
===HARD RESET===<br />
It is possible to do a hard reset and erase all of the configured parameters in the E1.31 bridge and return it back to the factory default settings. To do the hard reset and lose all of your settings and return the device to the factory settings: Press the MODE and RESET buttons at the same time and hold down the MODE button while you release the RESET button. The ACT LED will flash a status code, after the ACT LED flashes 10 times, release the MODE button. This will wipe all device configuration settings and reset them to the default factory settings and will force the generation of a new random [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAC_address MAC ID] for the unit if the MAC ID chip (IC 9) is not installed on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:E1.31]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=REN_32_Controller_Board&diff=11781REN 32 Controller Board2014-07-09T18:27:27Z<p>Dlovely: /* Board Availability */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:REN32-ANGLE.jpg | 500px]]<br />
=='''Introduction'''==<br />
<br />
:The REN 32 is the latest 32 channel Microchip 16F688 based PIC microcontroller Christmas light controller that can be used with up to 32 [[Solid_State_Relays|AC]] or [[DCSSR|DC]] solid state relay ([[Category:SSR|SSRs]]) . The board design is based on the PIC-based 8-port dimmer concept originally developed by Phil Short. Information on the original concept can be viewed [http://computerchristmas.com/christmas/link-how_to/HowToId-71/Simple_PIC-Based_8-Port_Dimmer here]. Generic information pertaining to current Renard designs (including maximum channel count) can be found on the [[Renard]] wiki page. It is capable of running on either 115vac or 230vac main power to the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
:This controller follows the Renard Standardized Series (SS) controller design: a design effort to standardize the board layouts for Renard based systems and to establish a standardized list of components to use in Renard designs. Some of the goals of the Renard SS design effort were:<br />
<br />
::* Completely self-contained controller board. All that is needed to start using the board is a data input and an AC power source. No external DC voltage supply or externally generated ZC is needed.<br />
<br />
::* Common part list used for all boards. There are no special parts for any individual board, all the boards use the same components. The only thing different is the quantity used on each board.<br />
<br />
::* Common component layout on the board. With only a few exceptions, all the components on the boards are laid out in the same fashion. <br />
<br />
::* On-board LEDs for full support of Renard diagnostics firmware.<br />
<br />
::* Easier for a new member to build. By removing extra options from the board, now a member can just order the parts from the BOM and will be able to build the board without having to figure out which options/parts apply to their configuration.<br />
<br />
::* Easier to support. By having all the boards using the same parts and having the same component layout, it will be easier to provide support to DIYC members when they have problems or ask questions.<br />
<br />
::* Complete documentation. In the past, boards were created, designed, produced and distributed without much documentation to support them. Documentation was an afterthought and was slow to catch up, some never did or is hard to understand for new members. In the Renard SS design effort, the documentation was created at the same time as the boards so that when the boards were ready for release, the documentation was also ready.<br />
[[File:REN32-SSR.jpg | center]]<br />
<br />
==Disclaimers==<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET.'''<br><br />
<br />
=='''The Board'''==<br />
[[File:REN32-BOARD-FRONT.jpg | 500px]][[File:REN32-FRONT.jpg | 500px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<center>'''The Ren32 measures 3.625" X 6.5"''</center><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==='''Board Availability'''===<br />
<br />
The PCB is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_34&products_id=222 DIYLEDExpress.com] as well as a [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_34&products_id=221 PCB/BOM Kit].<br/><br />
<br />
=='''Circuit Diagram'''==<br />
<br />
:The schematic diagram can be found '''[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki//index.php?title=File:REN32_SCHEMATIC.pdf HERE]''' <br />
<br />
<br />
=='''Key circuit components''' ==<br />
<br />
::'''Connectors''' <br />
<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Connectors'''<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Connector'''<br />
!width="90" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Type<br />
!width="300" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Function<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS485 outgoing data <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS232/RS485 incoming data<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 1-4<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 5-8<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 9-12<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 13-16<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 17-20<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 21-24<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J9''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 25-28<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J10''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 29-32<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''AC Power In''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Screw Terminals<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| AC Power Feed<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
::'''IC Chips''' <br />
<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="4" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Integrated Circuits'''<br />
|-<br />
|width="50" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Location'''<br />
!width="50" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Pins<br />
!width="100" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Type<br />
!width="300" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Function<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 3<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| LF50CV <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Voltage Regulator <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 6<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| H11AA1 <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Optocoupler, used to generate the Zero Cross signal for ACSSRs<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 4<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| ECS-2100AX-18.432MHZ<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 18.432 MHz Crystal Clock Oscillator <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 8<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| ST485BN <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS485 Transmitter <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 8<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| ST485BN <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS232/RS485 Reciever <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 14<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| PIC16F688 <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Microprocessor that controls Channels 1-8 <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 14<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| PIC16F688 <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Microprocessor that controls Channels 9-16 <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 14<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| PIC16F688 <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Microprocessor that controls Channels 17-24 <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U9''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 14<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| PIC16F688 <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Microprocessor that controls Channels 24-32 <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
::'''Diagnostic LEDs''' <br />
:::'''NOTE:''' The following Diagnostic LEDs will only function when a jumper is placed on JP3 and U6 has the diagnostic firmware loaded. <br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Diagnostic LED Feedback'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" width="50" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''LED'''<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''Firmware in U6'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Diagnostic <br>Firmware<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Operational <br>Firmware<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''POWER''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Lit whenever the voltage regulator is generating 5 VDC. <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Lit whenever the voltage regulator is generating 5 VDC.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''HB''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will blink ON/OFF to indicate that the PIC is operating correctly<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will be ON whenever channel 2 is ON<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''ZC''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will blink ON/OFF to indicate that the Zero Cross signal is getting to the PIC correctly <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will be ON whenever channel 5 is ON <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''SD''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will be ON whenever the PIC is receiving data correctly<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will be ON whenever channel 6 is ON<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''FE''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will only be ON when the PIC has identified a Framing Error while receiving data <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will be ON whenever channel 7 is ON <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''OE''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will only be ON when the PIC has identified an Overrun Error while receiving data<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will be ON whenever channel 8 is ON <br />
|}<br />
<br />
::'''Jumpers''' <br />
:::* '''JP1''' – RS232 signal ground. Install a shunt (jumper) on JP1 when receiving RS232 data.<br />
:::* '''JP2''' – 120 ohm termination resistor enable. Normally a shunt will be installed on JP2 when receiving RS485 data. Remove the shunt if you are experiencing problems with incoming data. <br />
:::* '''JP3''' – Diagnostic LEDs enable. Install a shunt on JP3 to allow the Diagnostic LEDs to function. During normal operation, you can remove the shunt with no negative impact on board operation. <br />
<br />
:::* '''Main Voltage ''' – You must provide either a jumper across the 2 horizontal jumpers to enable the board to run on 115vac, '''or''' one jumper across the 230vac jumper to allow the board to run on 230vac. <br />
<br />
<br />
::'''Test Points''' <br />
:::* '''+5''' – Output from voltage regulator, should be +5 ± 0.1 VDC <br />
:::* '''GND''' – Ground <br />
:::* '''ZC''' – Zero Cross signal<br />
<br />
=='''Firmware'''==<br />
<br />
:The PICs ('''U6''','''U7''' '''U8'''& '''U9''') must be programmed with the correct firmware for the board to operate correctly. There are two types of firmware available: Operational and Diagnostic. The Operational firmware is what you need for normal board operation. The Diagnostic firmware is a troubleshooting aid to use when there are problems with the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
:'''Renard SS Operational Firmware:'''<br />
<br />
::*[[media:Renard SS Operational Firmware.asm | Renard SS Operational Firmware.asm]] – source code that needs to be compiled<br />
<br />
<br />
:'''Renard SS Diagnostic Firmware:'''<br />
<br />
::*[[media:Renard SS Diagnostic Firmware.asm | Renard SS Diagnostic Firmware.asm]] – source code that needs to be compiled<br />
<br />
:::Instructions for using the Renard SS Diagnostic Firmware are located on this [[Renard Diagnostic Firmware Instructions | wiki page]] or can be downloaded in this [[media:Renard SS Diagnostic Firmware Instructions.pdf | file]].<br />
<br />
<br />
:'''DMX Firmware:''' <br />
<br />
::Since there are many options available with the Renard DMX firmware it is impractical to post a dedicated Renard SS board version here. Users desiring to use DMX should get the firmware [[Renard Firmware | here]]. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=='''Powering the REN 32'''==<br />
<br />
:Input power requirements: An AC source. The board can be powered be either 115vac or 230vac depending on the Main Power Jumper settings.<br />
<br />
===DC power:===<br />
:The Ren32 generates all the DC voltage that it requires on-board and no external DC voltage source is required.<br />
<br />
<br />
===AC Power:===<br />
:The REN 32 requires AC power for generation of the DC voltage, the off board SSR (opto/triac) circuitry and for generation of the Zero Cross signal.<br />
<br />
=='''AC Power Handling Capability'''==<br />
===Maximum Input Load===<br />
:Since the REN 32 uses off board SSRs, the power the board can control is based on their capabilities. See the [[DCSSR]] and the [[Solid_State_Relays|ACSSR]] wiki for possible ssr designs to use with this board. Since the REN 32 is actually 4 banks of 8 channels you can mix and match both AC and DC SSRs in groups of 8. All channels in a bank must be the same type (AC or DC).<br />
===Fuses===<br />
:The board has a safety fuse for protecting the ac mains voltage on the board. <br />
<br />
:The [[Assembly Instructions For The REN 32#Parts Listing (BOM) | BOM]] calls for a 1 amp fuse.<br />
<br />
=='''Hooking Up the REN 32'''==<br />
===J1 and J2-Renard Input and Output===<br />
The two RJ45 Connectors J1&J2 near the top right of the board are used to bring data signals to and from the board. J1 on the left side is the signal input from the PC or previous Renard controller. J2 on the right side is the output to be daisy-chained to the next Renard controller. The pins on these connectors are used as follows:<br/><br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Serial Data Connector Pin Assignments'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" width="50" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #'''<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''RJ45 Connector'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| J1 Input<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| J2 Output<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1,2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| GND<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Pin 3 is tied to J2 Pin 3<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Pin 3 is tied to J1 Pin 3<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Data- (Rx) <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Data- (Tx)<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Data+ (Rx)<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Data+ (Tx)<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| GND<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| GND <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7,8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Pins 7&8 are tied together to J2 Pins 7&8<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Pins 7&8 are tied together to J1 Pins 7&8 <br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Data Connections===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[image:Wiki - Renard SS24 Data Layout2.jpg | 800px |center]]<br />
<center>'''Typical connection between RS485/DMX/Renard and Renard SS24 boards'''</center><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
====Data Cables====<br />
<br />
:'''Data cables for Renard SS board hookup directly to computer COMM port''' <br />
[[image:Wiki - Renard SS RS232 Data Cable2.jpg | 500px ]]<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''PC Serial Port to REN 32'''<br>'''Adapter Cable'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RS232 Pin #<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| REN 32 RJ45<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''PC DE9 Pin 3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45 Pin 4<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''PC DE9 Pin 5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45 Pin 5 and Pin 1 and/or Pin 2<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
:'''Data cable for Renard SS board hookup using a RS232->RS485 or a USB->RS485 converter'''<br />
<br />
::Due to the many different types of RS232->RS485 and USB->RS485 converters available, the drawing only refers to the signals coming from the converter. Check the documentation for your converter to figure out how/where to hook up the correct wires. An example is shown here with the [[media:Wiki - HXSP-2108F adapter.jpg |HXSP-2108F Adapter Hook-up ]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Wiki - Renard SS RS485 Data Cable.jpg | 500px ]]<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''RS485 Dongle to REN 32'''<br>'''Adapter Cable'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RS485 Pin #<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| REN 32 RJ45<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RS485(-)/T-/D-/B/485-''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45 Pin 4 (blue CAT5 wire)<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RS485(+)/T+/D+/A/485+''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pin 5 (blue/white CAT5 wire)<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''GND''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pins 1 & 2 (orange and orange/white CAT5 wires)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
:'''Data cable for Renard SS board hookup in a DMX environment'''<br />
[[image:wiki - DMX (XLR) to Renard SS Connection.jpg | 500px]] <br><br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''DMX using XLR Connectors'''<br>'''Adapter Cable'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''DMX XLR Pin #<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| REN 32 RJ45<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''XLR connector Pin 1 (GND)''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pin 1 and/or pin 2<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''XLR connector pin 2 (Data-)''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pin 4<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''XLR connector pin 3 (Data+)''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pin 5<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[image:wiki - DMX (RJ-45) to Renard SS Connection.jpg | 500px]]<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''DMX using RJ45 Connectors'''<br>'''Adapter Cable'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''DMX RJ45 Pin #<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| REN 32 RJ45<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RJ45 connector pin 1 (Data+)''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pin 5<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RJ45 connector pin 2 (Data-)''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pin 4<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RJ45 connector pins 7 & 8 (GND)''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pins 1 & 2<br />
|}<br />
<br />
:'''Data cable for Renard SS board hookup to other Renard boards'''<br />
[[image:Wiki - Renard to Renard Data Cable.jpg | 500px]] <br><br />
<br />
Generally only a regular straight-thru CAT5 cable is required to connect Renard SS boards to other Renard boards. <br />
For the few exceptions (ie Ren24 V2.5), check the wiki page for those boards to see what their unique requirements are.<br />
<br />
====Cable Lengths====<br />
<br />
:Data cables connecting the Renard SS boards directly to a computer COMM port should not be longer than 50 feet according to the RS-232 standard. This distance can also be greatly reduced by using poor quality cables.<br />
<br />
<br />
:Data cables connecting the Renard SS boards directly to other Renard boards or any other RS-485 source can be up to 4,000 feet in length for data rates up to 100Kbps according to the RS-485 standard.<br />
<br />
===AC Power Connection===<br />
:'''AC Power Connection'''<br />
::The AC power source is connected to the two screw terminals on the left side of the board.<br />
::'''THE CORRECT POWER JUMPERS MUST BE INSTALLED FOR THE CORRECT LINE VOLTAGE BEING SUPPLIED TO THE BOARD!!!'''<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Power Connections'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #'''<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''Input Voltage'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="90" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 115VAC<br />
!width="90" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 230VAC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''"AC"''' <br> Top <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Neutral <br> (White Wire)<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Hot Wire<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''"IN"''' <br> Bottom <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Hot <br> (Black Wire)<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Hot Wire<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===SSR Connections===<br />
:'''Connecting SSRs to the REN 32'''<br />
:The REN 32 provides control signals to external Solid State Relays (SSRs) to switch power on/off and to dim the lights connected to the SSRs.<br />
<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Output Jack Pin Assignments'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Signal<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| +5VDC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| First Output Channel<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Not Connected <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Second Output Channel<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Not Connected<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Third Output Channel<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Signal Ground<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Fourth Output Channel<br />
|}<br />
<br />
:Each of the 8 output jacks control 4 channels each.<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Output Jack Channel Assignments'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Jack #<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Channels<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 1-4<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 5-8<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 9-12 <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 13-16<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 17-20<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 21-24<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J9''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 25-28<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J10''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 29-32<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
===Connecting Multiple Renard Boards===<br />
<br />
[[image:wiki - Renard SS Daisy Chain.jpg | 800px |center]]<br />
<br />
<br />
::The above image shows how Renard SS boards can be daisy chained together. Renard SS8 boards are used in the image just as an example of how all Renard SS boards can be connected together.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
::Key things to remember when connecting Renard SS boards together:<br />
<br />
:::* You only need one instance of the Renard Dimmer plug-in in Vixen for each physical COMM port being used. You just need to make sure that the plug-in is setup for the total number of channels for all the Renard boards connected to that COMM port. In the above example, the plug-in would be set for 32 channels.<br />
<br />
:::* The total number of Renard boards that can be connected together depends on the event period and the baud rate being used. More information on the total number of channels capable with Renard systems can be found here [[Renard#Number of Circuits (Channels) | here.]]<br />
<br />
=='''Configuring the jumpers on Renard SS boards'''==<br />
<br />
:'''JP1 & JP2 Configuraton''' <br />
<br />
:The configuration of JP1 and JP2 depends on the type of communication being used: <br />
<br><br />
<br />
::'''RS-232 Communication (direct connect to PC)''' <br />
:::*'''JP1''' installed <br />
:::*'''JP2''' not installed <br />
<br />
:::Reminder: This only applies to the first Renard SS board connected to the PC. The output of a Renard SS board to the next board is RS-485.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
::'''RS-485 Communication (output of a Renard board or output from a RS-485 adapter/converter)'''<br />
:::*'''JP1''' not installed <br />
:::*'''JP2''' installed (try removing if data communication issues are encountered)<br />
<br><br />
<br />
:'''JP3 Configuraton''' <br />
<br />
::*Installed when running the Diagnostics Firmware<br />
::*Normally not installed when running the Operational Firmware. But can be left installed if you don’t mind seeing the on-board LEDs responding with the associated channels.<br />
<br />
<br />
=='''Computer Setup'''==<br />
<br />
:'''VIXEN Settings''' <br />
<br />
::The Renard SS boards require the Renard Dimmer [Vixen 1.1.*] or Renard Dimmer (modified) [Vixen 2.*] Plug-In. <br />
<br />
::'''Renard Dimmer Plug-In Settings:''' <br />
:::*Protocol Version: 1 <br />
:::*COM1 (or whichever COM port you are connected to) <br />
:::*Baud: 57600 (default firmware value, if firmware is changed then this needs to be changed to match the firmware)<br />
:::*Parity: None <br />
:::*Data bits: 8 <br />
:::*Stop bits: One <br />
:::*Hold port open during the duration of the sequence execution: Checked <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=='''Setup for Beginners and Troubleshooting'''==<br />
<br />
:If you are unsure that you have built your hardware correctly, you should follow the procedures contained in the [[Beginners Setup Guide For The REN 32 | REN 32 Beginners Setup Guide]]. These procedures will guide you through the steps to help setup the hardware for the first time. <br />
<br />
<br />
:If you encounter any problems with your REN 32, you can go to the [[Troubleshooting_Guide_For_The_REN 32 | Troubleshooting Guide For The REN 32]]. The troubleshooting guide contains a methodical process to try to isolate problems/malfunctions and gives suggestions of what to do to fix them.<br />
<br />
=='''Related Links'''==<br />
:[[Beginners Setup Guide The REN 32]]<br />
<br />
:[[Assembly Instructions For The REN 32]]<br />
<br />
:[[Troubleshooting_Guide_For_The_REN 32| Troubleshooting Guide The REN 32]]<br />
<br />
:Board Availability Information<br />
<br />
:[[Renard Main Page]]<br />
<br />
:[[Renard Firmware]]<br />
<br />
:[[Part Substitutions]]<br />
<br />
:[[Vixen|VIXEN]]<br />
<br />
:[[Glossary | Glossary of DIYC Terms]]<br />
<br />
:[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_symbol Electronic Symbols]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:REN 32]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=REN_32_Controller_Board&diff=11780REN 32 Controller Board2014-07-09T18:26:12Z<p>Dlovely: /* Board Availability */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:REN32-ANGLE.jpg | 500px]]<br />
=='''Introduction'''==<br />
<br />
:The REN 32 is the latest 32 channel Microchip 16F688 based PIC microcontroller Christmas light controller that can be used with up to 32 [[Solid_State_Relays|AC]] or [[DCSSR|DC]] solid state relay ([[Category:SSR|SSRs]]) . The board design is based on the PIC-based 8-port dimmer concept originally developed by Phil Short. Information on the original concept can be viewed [http://computerchristmas.com/christmas/link-how_to/HowToId-71/Simple_PIC-Based_8-Port_Dimmer here]. Generic information pertaining to current Renard designs (including maximum channel count) can be found on the [[Renard]] wiki page. It is capable of running on either 115vac or 230vac main power to the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
:This controller follows the Renard Standardized Series (SS) controller design: a design effort to standardize the board layouts for Renard based systems and to establish a standardized list of components to use in Renard designs. Some of the goals of the Renard SS design effort were:<br />
<br />
::* Completely self-contained controller board. All that is needed to start using the board is a data input and an AC power source. No external DC voltage supply or externally generated ZC is needed.<br />
<br />
::* Common part list used for all boards. There are no special parts for any individual board, all the boards use the same components. The only thing different is the quantity used on each board.<br />
<br />
::* Common component layout on the board. With only a few exceptions, all the components on the boards are laid out in the same fashion. <br />
<br />
::* On-board LEDs for full support of Renard diagnostics firmware.<br />
<br />
::* Easier for a new member to build. By removing extra options from the board, now a member can just order the parts from the BOM and will be able to build the board without having to figure out which options/parts apply to their configuration.<br />
<br />
::* Easier to support. By having all the boards using the same parts and having the same component layout, it will be easier to provide support to DIYC members when they have problems or ask questions.<br />
<br />
::* Complete documentation. In the past, boards were created, designed, produced and distributed without much documentation to support them. Documentation was an afterthought and was slow to catch up, some never did or is hard to understand for new members. In the Renard SS design effort, the documentation was created at the same time as the boards so that when the boards were ready for release, the documentation was also ready.<br />
[[File:REN32-SSR.jpg | center]]<br />
<br />
==Disclaimers==<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET.'''<br><br />
<br />
=='''The Board'''==<br />
[[File:REN32-BOARD-FRONT.jpg | 500px]][[File:REN32-FRONT.jpg | 500px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<center>'''The Ren32 measures 3.625" X 6.5"''</center><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==='''Board Availability'''===<br />
<br />
The PCB is available from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_34&products_id=222 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
=='''Circuit Diagram'''==<br />
<br />
:The schematic diagram can be found '''[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki//index.php?title=File:REN32_SCHEMATIC.pdf HERE]''' <br />
<br />
<br />
=='''Key circuit components''' ==<br />
<br />
::'''Connectors''' <br />
<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Connectors'''<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Connector'''<br />
!width="90" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Type<br />
!width="300" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Function<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS485 outgoing data <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS232/RS485 incoming data<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 1-4<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 5-8<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 9-12<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 13-16<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 17-20<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 21-24<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J9''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 25-28<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J10''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Control Signal to SSR Channels 29-32<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''AC Power In''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Screw Terminals<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| AC Power Feed<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
::'''IC Chips''' <br />
<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="4" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Integrated Circuits'''<br />
|-<br />
|width="50" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Location'''<br />
!width="50" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Pins<br />
!width="100" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Type<br />
!width="300" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Function<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 3<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| LF50CV <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Voltage Regulator <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 6<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| H11AA1 <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Optocoupler, used to generate the Zero Cross signal for ACSSRs<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 4<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| ECS-2100AX-18.432MHZ<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 18.432 MHz Crystal Clock Oscillator <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 8<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| ST485BN <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS485 Transmitter <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 8<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| ST485BN <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RS232/RS485 Reciever <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 14<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| PIC16F688 <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Microprocessor that controls Channels 1-8 <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 14<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| PIC16F688 <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Microprocessor that controls Channels 9-16 <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 14<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| PIC16F688 <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Microprocessor that controls Channels 17-24 <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''U9''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 14<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| PIC16F688 <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Microprocessor that controls Channels 24-32 <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
::'''Diagnostic LEDs''' <br />
:::'''NOTE:''' The following Diagnostic LEDs will only function when a jumper is placed on JP3 and U6 has the diagnostic firmware loaded. <br />
<br><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Diagnostic LED Feedback'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" width="50" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''LED'''<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''Firmware in U6'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Diagnostic <br>Firmware<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Operational <br>Firmware<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''POWER''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Lit whenever the voltage regulator is generating 5 VDC. <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Lit whenever the voltage regulator is generating 5 VDC.<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''HB''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will blink ON/OFF to indicate that the PIC is operating correctly<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will be ON whenever channel 2 is ON<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''ZC''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will blink ON/OFF to indicate that the Zero Cross signal is getting to the PIC correctly <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will be ON whenever channel 5 is ON <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''SD''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will be ON whenever the PIC is receiving data correctly<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will be ON whenever channel 6 is ON<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''FE''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will only be ON when the PIC has identified a Framing Error while receiving data <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will be ON whenever channel 7 is ON <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''OE''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will only be ON when the PIC has identified an Overrun Error while receiving data<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| will be ON whenever channel 8 is ON <br />
|}<br />
<br />
::'''Jumpers''' <br />
:::* '''JP1''' – RS232 signal ground. Install a shunt (jumper) on JP1 when receiving RS232 data.<br />
:::* '''JP2''' – 120 ohm termination resistor enable. Normally a shunt will be installed on JP2 when receiving RS485 data. Remove the shunt if you are experiencing problems with incoming data. <br />
:::* '''JP3''' – Diagnostic LEDs enable. Install a shunt on JP3 to allow the Diagnostic LEDs to function. During normal operation, you can remove the shunt with no negative impact on board operation. <br />
<br />
:::* '''Main Voltage ''' – You must provide either a jumper across the 2 horizontal jumpers to enable the board to run on 115vac, '''or''' one jumper across the 230vac jumper to allow the board to run on 230vac. <br />
<br />
<br />
::'''Test Points''' <br />
:::* '''+5''' – Output from voltage regulator, should be +5 ± 0.1 VDC <br />
:::* '''GND''' – Ground <br />
:::* '''ZC''' – Zero Cross signal<br />
<br />
=='''Firmware'''==<br />
<br />
:The PICs ('''U6''','''U7''' '''U8'''& '''U9''') must be programmed with the correct firmware for the board to operate correctly. There are two types of firmware available: Operational and Diagnostic. The Operational firmware is what you need for normal board operation. The Diagnostic firmware is a troubleshooting aid to use when there are problems with the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
:'''Renard SS Operational Firmware:'''<br />
<br />
::*[[media:Renard SS Operational Firmware.asm | Renard SS Operational Firmware.asm]] – source code that needs to be compiled<br />
<br />
<br />
:'''Renard SS Diagnostic Firmware:'''<br />
<br />
::*[[media:Renard SS Diagnostic Firmware.asm | Renard SS Diagnostic Firmware.asm]] – source code that needs to be compiled<br />
<br />
:::Instructions for using the Renard SS Diagnostic Firmware are located on this [[Renard Diagnostic Firmware Instructions | wiki page]] or can be downloaded in this [[media:Renard SS Diagnostic Firmware Instructions.pdf | file]].<br />
<br />
<br />
:'''DMX Firmware:''' <br />
<br />
::Since there are many options available with the Renard DMX firmware it is impractical to post a dedicated Renard SS board version here. Users desiring to use DMX should get the firmware [[Renard Firmware | here]]. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=='''Powering the REN 32'''==<br />
<br />
:Input power requirements: An AC source. The board can be powered be either 115vac or 230vac depending on the Main Power Jumper settings.<br />
<br />
===DC power:===<br />
:The Ren32 generates all the DC voltage that it requires on-board and no external DC voltage source is required.<br />
<br />
<br />
===AC Power:===<br />
:The REN 32 requires AC power for generation of the DC voltage, the off board SSR (opto/triac) circuitry and for generation of the Zero Cross signal.<br />
<br />
=='''AC Power Handling Capability'''==<br />
===Maximum Input Load===<br />
:Since the REN 32 uses off board SSRs, the power the board can control is based on their capabilities. See the [[DCSSR]] and the [[Solid_State_Relays|ACSSR]] wiki for possible ssr designs to use with this board. Since the REN 32 is actually 4 banks of 8 channels you can mix and match both AC and DC SSRs in groups of 8. All channels in a bank must be the same type (AC or DC).<br />
===Fuses===<br />
:The board has a safety fuse for protecting the ac mains voltage on the board. <br />
<br />
:The [[Assembly Instructions For The REN 32#Parts Listing (BOM) | BOM]] calls for a 1 amp fuse.<br />
<br />
=='''Hooking Up the REN 32'''==<br />
===J1 and J2-Renard Input and Output===<br />
The two RJ45 Connectors J1&J2 near the top right of the board are used to bring data signals to and from the board. J1 on the left side is the signal input from the PC or previous Renard controller. J2 on the right side is the output to be daisy-chained to the next Renard controller. The pins on these connectors are used as follows:<br/><br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Serial Data Connector Pin Assignments'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" width="50" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #'''<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''RJ45 Connector'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| J1 Input<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| J2 Output<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1,2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| GND <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| GND<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Pin 3 is tied to J2 Pin 3<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Pin 3 is tied to J1 Pin 3<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Data- (Rx) <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Data- (Tx)<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Data+ (Rx)<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Data+ (Tx)<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| GND<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| GND <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7,8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Pins 7&8 are tied together to J2 Pins 7&8<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Pins 7&8 are tied together to J1 Pins 7&8 <br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Data Connections===<br />
<br />
<br />
[[image:Wiki - Renard SS24 Data Layout2.jpg | 800px |center]]<br />
<center>'''Typical connection between RS485/DMX/Renard and Renard SS24 boards'''</center><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
====Data Cables====<br />
<br />
:'''Data cables for Renard SS board hookup directly to computer COMM port''' <br />
[[image:Wiki - Renard SS RS232 Data Cable2.jpg | 500px ]]<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''PC Serial Port to REN 32'''<br>'''Adapter Cable'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RS232 Pin #<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| REN 32 RJ45<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''PC DE9 Pin 3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45 Pin 4<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''PC DE9 Pin 5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45 Pin 5 and Pin 1 and/or Pin 2<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
:'''Data cable for Renard SS board hookup using a RS232->RS485 or a USB->RS485 converter'''<br />
<br />
::Due to the many different types of RS232->RS485 and USB->RS485 converters available, the drawing only refers to the signals coming from the converter. Check the documentation for your converter to figure out how/where to hook up the correct wires. An example is shown here with the [[media:Wiki - HXSP-2108F adapter.jpg |HXSP-2108F Adapter Hook-up ]]<br />
<br />
[[image:Wiki - Renard SS RS485 Data Cable.jpg | 500px ]]<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''RS485 Dongle to REN 32'''<br>'''Adapter Cable'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RS485 Pin #<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| REN 32 RJ45<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RS485(-)/T-/D-/B/485-''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45 Pin 4 (blue CAT5 wire)<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RS485(+)/T+/D+/A/485+''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pin 5 (blue/white CAT5 wire)<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''GND''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pins 1 & 2 (orange and orange/white CAT5 wires)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
:'''Data cable for Renard SS board hookup in a DMX environment'''<br />
[[image:wiki - DMX (XLR) to Renard SS Connection.jpg | 500px]] <br><br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''DMX using XLR Connectors'''<br>'''Adapter Cable'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''DMX XLR Pin #<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| REN 32 RJ45<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''XLR connector Pin 1 (GND)''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pin 1 and/or pin 2<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''XLR connector pin 2 (Data-)''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pin 4<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''XLR connector pin 3 (Data+)''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pin 5<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[image:wiki - DMX (RJ-45) to Renard SS Connection.jpg | 500px]]<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''DMX using RJ45 Connectors'''<br>'''Adapter Cable'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''DMX RJ45 Pin #<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| REN 32 RJ45<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RJ45 connector pin 1 (Data+)''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pin 5<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RJ45 connector pin 2 (Data-)''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pin 4<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''RJ45 connector pins 7 & 8 (GND)''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| RJ45-pins 1 & 2<br />
|}<br />
<br />
:'''Data cable for Renard SS board hookup to other Renard boards'''<br />
[[image:Wiki - Renard to Renard Data Cable.jpg | 500px]] <br><br />
<br />
Generally only a regular straight-thru CAT5 cable is required to connect Renard SS boards to other Renard boards. <br />
For the few exceptions (ie Ren24 V2.5), check the wiki page for those boards to see what their unique requirements are.<br />
<br />
====Cable Lengths====<br />
<br />
:Data cables connecting the Renard SS boards directly to a computer COMM port should not be longer than 50 feet according to the RS-232 standard. This distance can also be greatly reduced by using poor quality cables.<br />
<br />
<br />
:Data cables connecting the Renard SS boards directly to other Renard boards or any other RS-485 source can be up to 4,000 feet in length for data rates up to 100Kbps according to the RS-485 standard.<br />
<br />
===AC Power Connection===<br />
:'''AC Power Connection'''<br />
::The AC power source is connected to the two screw terminals on the left side of the board.<br />
::'''THE CORRECT POWER JUMPERS MUST BE INSTALLED FOR THE CORRECT LINE VOLTAGE BEING SUPPLIED TO THE BOARD!!!'''<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|+ RJ45 Pin Assignments<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Power Connections'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #'''<br />
|colspan="2" align="center" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| '''Input Voltage'''<br />
|-<br />
!width="90" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 115VAC<br />
!width="90" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| 230VAC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''"AC"''' <br> Top <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Neutral <br> (White Wire)<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Hot Wire<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''"IN"''' <br> Bottom <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Hot <br> (Black Wire)<br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Hot Wire<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===SSR Connections===<br />
:'''Connecting SSRs to the REN 32'''<br />
:The REN 32 provides control signals to external Solid State Relays (SSRs) to switch power on/off and to dim the lights connected to the SSRs.<br />
<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Output Jack Pin Assignments'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Pin #<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Signal<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''1''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| +5VDC<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''2''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| First Output Channel<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Not Connected <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Second Output Channel<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Not Connected<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Third Output Channel<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Signal Ground<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| Fourth Output Channel<br />
|}<br />
<br />
:Each of the 8 output jacks control 4 channels each.<br />
{| border="1"; cellpadding="10" style="text-align: center; background:black; color:white"<br />
|colspan="3" align="center" style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| '''Output Jack Channel Assignments'''<br />
|-<br />
|rowspan="2" style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''Jack #<br />
|-<br />
!width="200" style="background:#D3D3D3; color:black"| Channels<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J3''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 1-4<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J4''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 5-8<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J5''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 9-12 <br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J6''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 13-16<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J7''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 17-20<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J8''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 21-24<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J9''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 25-28<br />
|-<br />
|style="background:#AFEEEE; color:black"| '''J10''' <br />
|style="background:#FBEC5D; color:black"| 29-32<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
===Connecting Multiple Renard Boards===<br />
<br />
[[image:wiki - Renard SS Daisy Chain.jpg | 800px |center]]<br />
<br />
<br />
::The above image shows how Renard SS boards can be daisy chained together. Renard SS8 boards are used in the image just as an example of how all Renard SS boards can be connected together.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
::Key things to remember when connecting Renard SS boards together:<br />
<br />
:::* You only need one instance of the Renard Dimmer plug-in in Vixen for each physical COMM port being used. You just need to make sure that the plug-in is setup for the total number of channels for all the Renard boards connected to that COMM port. In the above example, the plug-in would be set for 32 channels.<br />
<br />
:::* The total number of Renard boards that can be connected together depends on the event period and the baud rate being used. More information on the total number of channels capable with Renard systems can be found here [[Renard#Number of Circuits (Channels) | here.]]<br />
<br />
=='''Configuring the jumpers on Renard SS boards'''==<br />
<br />
:'''JP1 & JP2 Configuraton''' <br />
<br />
:The configuration of JP1 and JP2 depends on the type of communication being used: <br />
<br><br />
<br />
::'''RS-232 Communication (direct connect to PC)''' <br />
:::*'''JP1''' installed <br />
:::*'''JP2''' not installed <br />
<br />
:::Reminder: This only applies to the first Renard SS board connected to the PC. The output of a Renard SS board to the next board is RS-485.<br />
<br><br />
<br />
::'''RS-485 Communication (output of a Renard board or output from a RS-485 adapter/converter)'''<br />
:::*'''JP1''' not installed <br />
:::*'''JP2''' installed (try removing if data communication issues are encountered)<br />
<br><br />
<br />
:'''JP3 Configuraton''' <br />
<br />
::*Installed when running the Diagnostics Firmware<br />
::*Normally not installed when running the Operational Firmware. But can be left installed if you don’t mind seeing the on-board LEDs responding with the associated channels.<br />
<br />
<br />
=='''Computer Setup'''==<br />
<br />
:'''VIXEN Settings''' <br />
<br />
::The Renard SS boards require the Renard Dimmer [Vixen 1.1.*] or Renard Dimmer (modified) [Vixen 2.*] Plug-In. <br />
<br />
::'''Renard Dimmer Plug-In Settings:''' <br />
:::*Protocol Version: 1 <br />
:::*COM1 (or whichever COM port you are connected to) <br />
:::*Baud: 57600 (default firmware value, if firmware is changed then this needs to be changed to match the firmware)<br />
:::*Parity: None <br />
:::*Data bits: 8 <br />
:::*Stop bits: One <br />
:::*Hold port open during the duration of the sequence execution: Checked <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=='''Setup for Beginners and Troubleshooting'''==<br />
<br />
:If you are unsure that you have built your hardware correctly, you should follow the procedures contained in the [[Beginners Setup Guide For The REN 32 | REN 32 Beginners Setup Guide]]. These procedures will guide you through the steps to help setup the hardware for the first time. <br />
<br />
<br />
:If you encounter any problems with your REN 32, you can go to the [[Troubleshooting_Guide_For_The_REN 32 | Troubleshooting Guide For The REN 32]]. The troubleshooting guide contains a methodical process to try to isolate problems/malfunctions and gives suggestions of what to do to fix them.<br />
<br />
=='''Related Links'''==<br />
:[[Beginners Setup Guide The REN 32]]<br />
<br />
:[[Assembly Instructions For The REN 32]]<br />
<br />
:[[Troubleshooting_Guide_For_The_REN 32| Troubleshooting Guide The REN 32]]<br />
<br />
:Board Availability Information<br />
<br />
:[[Renard Main Page]]<br />
<br />
:[[Renard Firmware]]<br />
<br />
:[[Part Substitutions]]<br />
<br />
:[[Vixen|VIXEN]]<br />
<br />
:[[Glossary | Glossary of DIYC Terms]]<br />
<br />
:[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_symbol Electronic Symbols]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:REN 32]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pixel_Extender&diff=11747Pixel Extender2014-06-09T17:44:58Z<p>Dlovely: /* Initial Testing */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Pixel Extender Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Pixel Extender?==<br />
<br />
The Pixel Extender is an add on for the [[E1.31 Bridge]]. It allows Pixels to be run directly from the Bridge without the need for an additional controller. They are replacements for the tiny DMX to Pixel controllers but have some added benefits. You can configure the protocol, channels (Start, Total count) and RGB order all from within the Bridge configuration web page. Currently WS2811 and GECE protocols are supported. Since they use true RS485 drivers they can be located thousands of feet away from the Bridge giving you ample configuration options for those locations a full controller or Ethernet run is not optimal.<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
V1.2 - Initial Release<br />
<br />
==Pixel Extender Parts==<br />
To build the Pixel Extender, you need 2 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=279 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680ohms 0.05</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R2-R3</td><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 1.0Kohms 0.05</td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R4-R5</td><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 27Kohms 5%</td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R6</td><td>291-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 120ohms 0.05</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC1</td><td>701-SP485ES-L</td><td>RS-485 Interface IC RS485 5000 kbps temp -40C to 85C</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>5V Regulator</td><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Voltage Regulators TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C1-C3</td><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>J1</td><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Modular Connectors / Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Pixel Connector</td><td>538-39501-6004</td><td>Pluggable Terminal Blocks 3.5MM EURO HEADER VE HEADER VERT GRN 4CKT</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Pixel Connector Plug</td><td>538-39500-0004</td><td>Pluggable Terminal Blocks EURO 3.5MM HOR PLUG 4CIRCUITS</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Shunt</td><td>517-9691020000DA</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2.54MM SHUNT</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED1</td><td>604-WP7113GD</td><td>Standard LEDs - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>JP1</td><td>571-826629-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2P SINGLE ROW</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>X1,X3</td><td>538-39890-0302</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Fuse</td><td>504-ATM-7-1/2</td><td>Automotive Fuses 7.5A 32Vdc 1kA IR Brown</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Fuse Holder</td><td>534-3544-2</td><td>Fuse Clips AUTO FUSEHOLDER .032</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 1</td><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P DIP SOCKET SOCKETS</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=7ab47643db Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=280 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
Take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 680 Ohm resistors (blue, gray, brown, gold) R1 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 1K Ohm resistors (brown, black, red, gold) R2,R3 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 27K Ohm resistors (red, violet, orange, gold) R4,R5 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 120 Ohm resistor (brown, red, brown, gold) R6 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the three 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C1-C3. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one green LED LED1. The LEDs are polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the top hole closest to the mount hole.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 8-pin IC sockets for IC1. Install with the notch to the bottom matching the notch on the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the 5v linear regulator. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face the bottom to match the orientation on the silkscreen. NOTE: IF YOU PLAN TO USE 5VDC LOADS, SEE THE DESIGN OPTIONS SECTION BELOW BEFORE INSTALLING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one fuse clip. The fuse clip has no polarity to worry about.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the pixel output block with the notches matching the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one terminal block for the power input. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one RJ45 modular jacks J1. Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 jacks are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Pixel Extender!<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - 5V Bypass====<br />
Install shunt instead of 5V Regulator to use with 5V Pixels.<br />
<br />
==Powering the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
Power the Pixel Extender with a 5V or 12V power supply. Each Pixel Extender can provide up to 7.5A of fused power to the attached pixels. Apply power to the X1 terminal block.<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing and Connecting to the E1.31 Bridge==<br />
<br />
On the E1.31 Bridge, set the output '''jumpers''' to Renard. The Pixel Extender uses data on Pins 4/5 so the jumpers need to be set to Renard. Configure the output on the E1.31 Bridge webpage to be WS2811 or GECE then update that output. Now power off everything and connect your E1.31 Bridge to the Pixel Extender and attach your Pixel string. Power everything up (Order does not matter for WS2811, but for GECE power them up before powering up the E1.31 Bridge). You can now send E1.31 Data to the Bridge or use an internal test pattern to test the Pixel Extenders.<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Pixel Extender, connected it up to your E1.31 Bridge and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Pixel Extender and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Pixel Extender to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pixel_Extender&diff=11746Pixel Extender2014-06-09T17:40:58Z<p>Dlovely: /* Powering the Pixel Extender */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Pixel Extender Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Pixel Extender?==<br />
<br />
The Pixel Extender is an add on for the [[E1.31 Bridge]]. It allows Pixels to be run directly from the Bridge without the need for an additional controller. They are replacements for the tiny DMX to Pixel controllers but have some added benefits. You can configure the protocol, channels (Start, Total count) and RGB order all from within the Bridge configuration web page. Currently WS2811 and GECE protocols are supported. Since they use true RS485 drivers they can be located thousands of feet away from the Bridge giving you ample configuration options for those locations a full controller or Ethernet run is not optimal.<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
V1.2 - Initial Release<br />
<br />
==Pixel Extender Parts==<br />
To build the Pixel Extender, you need 2 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=279 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680ohms 0.05</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R2-R3</td><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 1.0Kohms 0.05</td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R4-R5</td><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 27Kohms 5%</td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R6</td><td>291-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 120ohms 0.05</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC1</td><td>701-SP485ES-L</td><td>RS-485 Interface IC RS485 5000 kbps temp -40C to 85C</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>5V Regulator</td><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Voltage Regulators TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C1-C3</td><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>J1</td><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Modular Connectors / Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Pixel Connector</td><td>538-39501-6004</td><td>Pluggable Terminal Blocks 3.5MM EURO HEADER VE HEADER VERT GRN 4CKT</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Pixel Connector Plug</td><td>538-39500-0004</td><td>Pluggable Terminal Blocks EURO 3.5MM HOR PLUG 4CIRCUITS</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Shunt</td><td>517-9691020000DA</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2.54MM SHUNT</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED1</td><td>604-WP7113GD</td><td>Standard LEDs - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>JP1</td><td>571-826629-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2P SINGLE ROW</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>X1,X3</td><td>538-39890-0302</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Fuse</td><td>504-ATM-7-1/2</td><td>Automotive Fuses 7.5A 32Vdc 1kA IR Brown</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Fuse Holder</td><td>534-3544-2</td><td>Fuse Clips AUTO FUSEHOLDER .032</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 1</td><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P DIP SOCKET SOCKETS</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=7ab47643db Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=280 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
Take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 680 Ohm resistors (blue, gray, brown, gold) R1 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 1K Ohm resistors (brown, black, red, gold) R2,R3 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 27K Ohm resistors (red, violet, orange, gold) R4,R5 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 120 Ohm resistor (brown, red, brown, gold) R6 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the three 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C1-C3. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one green LED LED1. The LEDs are polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the top hole closest to the mount hole.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 8-pin IC sockets for IC1. Install with the notch to the bottom matching the notch on the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the 5v linear regulator. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face the bottom to match the orientation on the silkscreen. NOTE: IF YOU PLAN TO USE 5VDC LOADS, SEE THE DESIGN OPTIONS SECTION BELOW BEFORE INSTALLING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one fuse clip. The fuse clip has no polarity to worry about.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the pixel output block with the notches matching the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one terminal block for the power input. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one RJ45 modular jacks J1. Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 jacks are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Pixel Extender!<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - 5V Bypass====<br />
Install shunt instead of 5V Regulator to use with 5V Pixels.<br />
<br />
==Powering the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
Power the Pixel Extender with a 5V or 12V power supply. Each Pixel Extender can provide up to 7.5A of fused power to the attached pixels. Apply power to the X1 terminal block.<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Pixel Extender, connected it up to your E1.31 Bridge and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Pixel Extender and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Pixel Extender to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pixel_Extender&diff=11745Pixel Extender2014-06-09T17:38:05Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Pixel Extender Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Pixel Extender?==<br />
<br />
The Pixel Extender is an add on for the [[E1.31 Bridge]]. It allows Pixels to be run directly from the Bridge without the need for an additional controller. They are replacements for the tiny DMX to Pixel controllers but have some added benefits. You can configure the protocol, channels (Start, Total count) and RGB order all from within the Bridge configuration web page. Currently WS2811 and GECE protocols are supported. Since they use true RS485 drivers they can be located thousands of feet away from the Bridge giving you ample configuration options for those locations a full controller or Ethernet run is not optimal.<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
V1.2 - Initial Release<br />
<br />
==Pixel Extender Parts==<br />
To build the Pixel Extender, you need 2 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=279 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680ohms 0.05</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R2-R3</td><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 1.0Kohms 0.05</td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R4-R5</td><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 27Kohms 5%</td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R6</td><td>291-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 120ohms 0.05</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC1</td><td>701-SP485ES-L</td><td>RS-485 Interface IC RS485 5000 kbps temp -40C to 85C</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>5V Regulator</td><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Voltage Regulators TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C1-C3</td><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>J1</td><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Modular Connectors / Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Pixel Connector</td><td>538-39501-6004</td><td>Pluggable Terminal Blocks 3.5MM EURO HEADER VE HEADER VERT GRN 4CKT</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Pixel Connector Plug</td><td>538-39500-0004</td><td>Pluggable Terminal Blocks EURO 3.5MM HOR PLUG 4CIRCUITS</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Shunt</td><td>517-9691020000DA</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2.54MM SHUNT</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED1</td><td>604-WP7113GD</td><td>Standard LEDs - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>JP1</td><td>571-826629-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2P SINGLE ROW</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>X1,X3</td><td>538-39890-0302</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Fuse</td><td>504-ATM-7-1/2</td><td>Automotive Fuses 7.5A 32Vdc 1kA IR Brown</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Fuse Holder</td><td>534-3544-2</td><td>Fuse Clips AUTO FUSEHOLDER .032</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 1</td><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P DIP SOCKET SOCKETS</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=7ab47643db Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=280 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
Take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 680 Ohm resistors (blue, gray, brown, gold) R1 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 1K Ohm resistors (brown, black, red, gold) R2,R3 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 27K Ohm resistors (red, violet, orange, gold) R4,R5 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 120 Ohm resistor (brown, red, brown, gold) R6 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the three 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C1-C3. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one green LED LED1. The LEDs are polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the top hole closest to the mount hole.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 8-pin IC sockets for IC1. Install with the notch to the bottom matching the notch on the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the 5v linear regulator. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face the bottom to match the orientation on the silkscreen. NOTE: IF YOU PLAN TO USE 5VDC LOADS, SEE THE DESIGN OPTIONS SECTION BELOW BEFORE INSTALLING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one fuse clip. The fuse clip has no polarity to worry about.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the pixel output block with the notches matching the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one terminal block for the power input. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one RJ45 modular jacks J1. Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 jacks are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Pixel Extender!<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - 5V Bypass====<br />
Install shunt instead of 5V Regulator to use with 5V Pixels.<br />
<br />
==Powering the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Pixel Extender, connected it up to your E1.31 Bridge and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Pixel Extender and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Pixel Extender to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pixel_Extender&diff=11744Pixel Extender2014-06-09T17:36:38Z<p>Dlovely: /* Pixel Extender Parts */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Pixel Extender Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Pixel Extender?==<br />
<br />
The Pixel Extender is an add on for the [[E1.31 Bridge]]. It allows Pixels to be run directly from the Bridge without the need for an additional controller. They are replacements for the tiny DMX to Pixel controllers but have some added benefits. You can configure the protocol, channels (Start, Total count) and RGB order all from within the Bridge configuration web page. Currently WS2811 and GECE protocols are supported. Since they use true RS485 drivers they can be located thousands of feet away from the Bridge giving you ample configuration options for those locations a full controller or Ethernet run is not optimal.<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
V1.2 - Initial Release<br />
<br />
==Pixel Extender Parts==<br />
To build the Pixel Extender, you need 2 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=279 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>299-680-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 680ohms 0.05</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R2-R3</td><td>299-1K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 1.0Kohms 0.05</td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R4-R5</td><td>299-27K-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 27Kohms 5%</td><td>2</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R6</td><td>291-120-RC</td><td>Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 120ohms 0.05</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC1</td><td>701-SP485ES-L</td><td>RS-485 Interface IC RS485 5000 kbps temp -40C to 85C</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>5V Regulator</td><td>512-LM78L05ACZX</td><td>Linear Voltage Regulators TO-92 .1A Pos Volt</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>C1-C3</td><td>581-SA105E104MAR</td><td>Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - Leaded 50volts 0.1uF 20% Z5U</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>J1</td><td>571-5556416-1</td><td>Modular Connectors / Ethernet Connectors 8 PCB TOP ENTRY</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Pixel Connector</td><td>538-39501-6004</td><td>Pluggable Terminal Blocks 3.5MM EURO HEADER VE HEADER VERT GRN 4CKT</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Pixel Connector Plug</td><td>538-39500-0004</td><td>Pluggable Terminal Blocks EURO 3.5MM HOR PLUG 4CIRCUITS</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Shunt</td><td>517-9691020000DA</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2.54MM SHUNT</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>LED1</td><td>604-WP7113GD</td><td>Standard LEDs - Through Hole GREEN DIFFUSED</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>JP1</td><td>571-826629-2</td><td>Headers & Wire Housings 2P SINGLE ROW</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>X1,X3</td><td>538-39890-0302</td><td>Fixed Terminal Blocks 5.0MM ECONOMY 2P 14-24AWG</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Fuse</td><td>504-ATM-7-1/2</td><td>Automotive Fuses 7.5A 32Vdc 1kA IR Brown</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Fuse Holder</td><td>534-3544-2</td><td>Fuse Clips AUTO FUSEHOLDER .032</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>IC Socket 1</td><td>571-1-390261-2</td><td>IC & Component Sockets 8P DIP SOCKET SOCKETS</td><td>1</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=7ab47643db Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=280 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
Take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:#:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 680 Ohm resistors (blue, gray, brown, gold) R1 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 1K Ohm resistors (brown, black, red, gold) R2,R3 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 27K Ohm resistors (red, violet, orange, gold) R4,R5 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 120 Ohm resistor (brown, red, brown, gold) R6 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the three 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C1-C3. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one green LED LED1. The LEDs are polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the top hole closest to the mount hole.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 8-pin IC sockets for IC1. Install with the notch to the bottom matching the notch on the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the 5v linear regulator. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face the bottom to match the orientation on the silkscreen. NOTE: IF YOU PLAN TO USE 5VDC LOADS, SEE THE DESIGN OPTIONS SECTION BELOW BEFORE INSTALLING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one fuse clip. The fuse clip has no polarity to worry about.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the pixel output block with the notches matching the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one terminal block for the power input. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one RJ45 modular jacks J1. Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 jacks are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Pixel Extender!<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - 5V Bypass====<br />
Install shunt instead of 5V Regulator to use with 5V Pixels.<br />
<br />
==Powering the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Pixel Extender, connected it up to your E1.31 Bridge and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Pixel Extender and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Pixel Extender to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pixel_Extender&diff=11743Pixel Extender2014-06-09T17:13:58Z<p>Dlovely: /* What is the Pixel Extender? */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Pixel Extender Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Pixel Extender?==<br />
<br />
The Pixel Extender is an add on for the [[E1.31 Bridge]]. It allows Pixels to be run directly from the Bridge without the need for an additional controller. They are replacements for the tiny DMX to Pixel controllers but have some added benefits. You can configure the protocol, channels (Start, Total count) and RGB order all from within the Bridge configuration web page. Currently WS2811 and GECE protocols are supported. Since they use true RS485 drivers they can be located thousands of feet away from the Bridge giving you ample configuration options for those locations a full controller or Ethernet run is not optimal.<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
V1.2 - Initial Release<br />
<br />
==Pixel Extender Parts==<br />
To build the Pixel Extender, you need 2 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=279 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>#</td><td>Resistor</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=f998b5a72f Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=280 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
Take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:#:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 680 Ohm resistors (blue, gray, brown, gold) R1 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 1K Ohm resistors (brown, black, red, gold) R2,R3 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 27K Ohm resistors (red, violet, orange, gold) R4,R5 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 120 Ohm resistor (brown, red, brown, gold) R6 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the three 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C1-C3. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one green LED LED1. The LEDs are polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the top hole closest to the mount hole.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 8-pin IC sockets for IC1. Install with the notch to the bottom matching the notch on the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the 5v linear regulator. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face the bottom to match the orientation on the silkscreen. NOTE: IF YOU PLAN TO USE 5VDC LOADS, SEE THE DESIGN OPTIONS SECTION BELOW BEFORE INSTALLING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one fuse clip. The fuse clip has no polarity to worry about.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the pixel output block with the notches matching the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one terminal block for the power input. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one RJ45 modular jacks J1. Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 jacks are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Pixel Extender!<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - 5V Bypass====<br />
Install shunt instead of 5V Regulator to use with 5V Pixels.<br />
<br />
==Powering the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Pixel Extender, connected it up to your E1.31 Bridge and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Pixel Extender and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Pixel Extender to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pixel_Extender&diff=11742Pixel Extender2014-06-09T17:08:30Z<p>Dlovely: /* Revision History */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Pixel Extender Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Pixel Extender?==<br />
<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
V1.2 - Initial Release<br />
<br />
==Pixel Extender Parts==<br />
To build the Pixel Extender, you need 2 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=279 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>#</td><td>Resistor</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=f998b5a72f Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=280 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
Take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:#:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 680 Ohm resistors (blue, gray, brown, gold) R1 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 1K Ohm resistors (brown, black, red, gold) R2,R3 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 27K Ohm resistors (red, violet, orange, gold) R4,R5 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 120 Ohm resistor (brown, red, brown, gold) R6 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the three 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C1-C3. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one green LED LED1. The LEDs are polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the top hole closest to the mount hole.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 8-pin IC sockets for IC1. Install with the notch to the bottom matching the notch on the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the 5v linear regulator. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face the bottom to match the orientation on the silkscreen. NOTE: IF YOU PLAN TO USE 5VDC LOADS, SEE THE DESIGN OPTIONS SECTION BELOW BEFORE INSTALLING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one fuse clip. The fuse clip has no polarity to worry about.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the pixel output block with the notches matching the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one terminal block for the power input. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one RJ45 modular jacks J1. Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 jacks are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Pixel Extender!<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - 5V Bypass====<br />
Install shunt instead of 5V Regulator to use with 5V Pixels.<br />
<br />
==Powering the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Pixel Extender, connected it up to your E1.31 Bridge and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Pixel Extender and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Pixel Extender to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Controllers&diff=11534Controllers2014-03-25T13:50:26Z<p>Dlovely: /* Dumb RGB DC Controllers Feature Comparisons */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Intro=<br />
There are many different types of controllers used for RGB lighting effects. The most common fall into two different categories: <br />
*Pixel Controllers <br />
*Dumb RGB Controllers.<br><br />
<br />
The different controllers also can be broken into categories based on the type of data communications protocols used to speak to them from the sequencing computer. The main categories of communications protocols are:<br />
* [[Renard]] (using either RS232-serial or RS485)<br />
* [[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol|E1.31]] (DMX over Ethernet)<br />
* [[DMX]] A traditional stage lighting protocol<br />
* Programs stored on SD memory cards <br />
* Lightorama LOR compatable gear<br />
<br />
<br />
When choosing a Pixel controller it is important that you confirm that your selection is compatible with you system design. Critical properties to consider include are:<br />
* Communications Protocol (E1.31, Renard, DMX, LOR, Etc.)<br />
* [[Choosing_a_Pixel_Voltage:_5V_vs_12V|Pixel Voltage]] (5VDC vs 12VDC)<br />
* [[Different_Styles_of_Pixels|Pixel Type]] (WS2801, WS2811, GECE, LOR, Etc.)<br />
* Number of Pixels to be Controlled<br />
* Number of Connectors and Number of Strings that can be Physically Connected<br />
* Advanced Features<br />
** Grouping (ability to treat multiple Pixels as one)<br />
** RGB Ordering (ability to correct the physical RGB order to match the software sequence order)<br />
** ZigZag (Ability to treat physical strings as multiple logical strings)<br />
** Reverse order (ability to reorder the channels on a string so the most distant one is the first channel)<br />
** Etc.<br />
<br />
Generally you also need to add an [[Enclosures|Enclosure]] to the Pixel Controller to protect it from the weather. You will also need a [[Power Supplies|Power Supply]] to power the Pixel Controller and Pixels. There are several ways to connect the [[Power_Injection|Power wiring]] and there are also several types of [[Pixel Connectors]] that can be used to simplify the wiring.<br />
<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS PAGE IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION AND IS NOT COMPLETE!!'''<br/><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
These are selected Pixel Controllers and other devices from the various vendors with a mix of properties. Visit their sites for the latest information and to see their entire product catalog.<br />
<br />
'''PLEASE CONFIRM ALL DETAILS WITH VENDOR BEFORE ORDERING!! ALL OF THIS DATA IS SUBJECT TO CONSTANT CHANGE AND MAY BE WRONG!!!'''<br />
<br />
Pricing is in US $. Pricing is as of 1-29-13. <br />
<br />
'''PRICING DOES NOT INCLUDE SHIPPING, TAXES OR IMPORT DUTIES!''' <br />
<br />
Shipping from overseas can be expensive, check with your vendor.<br />
<br />
=PIXEL CONTROLLERS=<br />
=='''Renard Protocol (RS232 or RS485)to SPI (Pixel Communication)'''==<br />
'''[[Renard_PX1_Pixel_Controller|Renard PX1 Pixel Controller]]''' <br />
<br />
The Renard PX1 was designed by [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?9-P-Short Phil Short] as an inexpensive Pixel controller designed to work with standard Renard systems. It can be daisy chained with other Renard controllers. The PX1 provides a low cost solution that allows a user to add pixels to an existing display setup using just a simple Renard setup.<br />
<br />
=='''E1.31 (Ethernet) to SPI (Pixel Communications)'''==<br />
These interfaces accept an [[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol|E1.31 (Ethernet)]] input and typically drive one or more pixel strings.<br />
<br />
===[http://www.sandevices.com SanDevices]===<br />
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?4668-jstjohnz jstjohnz])<br />
<br />
[http://sandevices.com/documents/E68x_Controller_Pixel_Config.pdf E68x Configuration Guide]<br />
<br />
[http://www.sandevices.com/downloads.html Firmware Updates]<br />
<br />
[[E68X-to-DMX#Converter_Configuration]]<br />
<br />
Default IP Address: 192.168.1.206<br />
<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
| Model || Max Pixels || DMX Universes || Pixels Supported || Output Connectors || Max Channels || DMX Universes per Output || Image || Link || Price || Manual || Note<br />
|-<br />
| E6804-4 || 2040 || 7Multicast / 12Unicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 4 Fused (1x4 Electrical, 4x1 Logical) || 6120 || Up to 12 || || [http://sandevices.com/E6804Info.html link] || Assembled/Tested: $99, Full Kit: Price $69 [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?26225-E6804-4-port-pixel-controller Presale]|| [http://sandevices.com/documents/SanDevices_E6804_Pixel_Controller_Operating_Manual.pdf Owner's] [http://sandevices.com/documents/SanDevices_E6804_Assembly_Manual.pdf Assembly] || Size is 2.5" x 4", mounting holes on 2"x3" centers, compatible with CG series enclosures. [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?25504-New-Pixel-Controller&p=258848#post258848 Announcement ]<br />
|-<br />
| PS-1 || 1020 || 6Multicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 3060 || Up to 6 || || [http://sandevices.com/PixelSystem1.html link] || Turnkey System: $399 || [http://sandevices.com/documents/PS1_Users_Guide.pdf Owner's ] || Assembled E682 with power supply in an Enclosure<br />
|-<br />
| E682-12 || 2040 || 6Multicast / 12Unicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 6120 || Up to 12 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E681info.html link] || Assembled/Tested: $180, Full Kit: Price $109 || [http://sandevices.com/documents/E682_Operating_Manual.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/E682_Assembly_Instructions.pdf Assembly ] ||To be released shortly<br />
|-<br />
| E682-6 || 1020 || 6Multicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 3060 || Up to 6 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E681info.html link] || Assembled/Tested: $180, Full Kit: Price $109 || [http://sandevices.com/documents/E682_Operating_Manual.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/E682_Assembly_Instructions.pdf Assembly ] || Original E682, Before Firmware Upgrade<br />
|-<br />
| E681-12 || 2040 || 6Multicast / 12Unicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 6120 || Up to 12 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E681info.html link] || No Longer Available || [http://sandevices.com/documents/E681_opman.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/E681_Assembly_Instructions.pdf Assembly ] || Firmware To be released shortly, requires [http://www.sandevices.com/UPG1.html UP1 upgrade]<br />
|-<br />
| E681-6 || 1020 || 6Multicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 3060 || Up to 6 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E681info.html link] || No Longer Available || [http://sandevices.com/documents/E681_opman.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/E681_Assembly_Instructions.pdf Assembly ] || Original E681, with Firmware Upgrade and [http://www.sandevices.com/UPG1.html UP1 upgrade]<br />
|-<br />
| E681-4 || 680 || 4Multicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 2040 || Up to 4 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E681info.html link] || No Longer Available || [http://sandevices.com/documents/E681_opman.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/E681_Assembly_Instructions.pdf Assembly ] || Original E681, without Firmware Upgrade and without [http://www.sandevices.com/UPG1.html UP1 upgrade]<br />
|-<br />
| E680-12 || 2040 || 6Multicast / 12Unicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 6120 || Up to 12 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E680Info.html link] || Partial Kit: $19 (PC Board + EEPROM) needs additional parts to function || [http://sandevices.com/documents/e680_opman.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/e680_assemman.pdf Assembly ] ||To be released shortly, requires [http://www.sandevices.com/UPG1.html UP1 upgrade]<br />
|-<br />
| E680-6 || 1020 || 6Multicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 3060 || Up to 6 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E680Info.html link] || Partial Kit: $19 (PC Board + EEPROM) needs additional parts to function || [http://sandevices.com/documents/e680_opman.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/e680_assemman.pdf Assembly ] || Original E680, with Firmware Upgrade and [http://www.sandevices.com/UPG1.html UP1 upgrade]<br />
|-<br />
| E680-4 || 680 || 4Multicast || GECE, Native DMX, TM1804, 1903, WS2801, WS2811, TLS3001, CYT3005, LPD6803(+8bit), 8806, 9813, and others|| 16 Fused (2x8 Electrical, 4x4 Logical) || 2040 || Up to 4 || || [http://www.sandevices.com/E680Info.html link] || Partial Kit: $19 (PC Board + EEPROM) needs additional parts to function || [http://sandevices.com/documents/e680_opman.pdf Owner's ] [http://sandevices.com/documents/e680_assemman.pdf Assembly ] || Original E680, without Firmware Upgrade and without [http://www.sandevices.com/UPG1.html UP1 upgrade]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===[http://www.j1sys.com/ Joshua 1 Systems (J1SYS)]===<br />
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?5441-j1sys j1sys])<br />
<br />
[http://www.j1sys.com/assets/ecg-px-v2.0a.swf Tutorial Video]<br />
<br />
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zJtKlOtI4Y Setup Video]<br />
<br />
[http://auschristmaslighting.com/forums/index.php/topic,2232.0.html Unofficial Users Manual]<br />
<br />
Default IP Address: 10.10.10.10<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
| Model || Max Pixels || DMX Universes || Pixels Supported || Output Connectors || Max Channels || DMX Universes per Output || Image || Link || Price || Manual || Note<br />
|-<br />
| ECG-P12R || 2040 || 12Unicast || LPD6803, WS2801, WS2811, TM180x, TLS3001 || 12 Fused (2x6 Electrical, 3x4 Logical) || 6120 || 1 || || [http://www.j1sys.com/ecg-p12r/ link] || Assembled Board: $175 || [http://www.j1sys.com/assets/PIXAD8-Guide-v0.1.pdf Owner's ] [http://www.j1sys.com/assets/p12r-notes.pdf Notes ] || <br />
|-<br />
| ECG-PIXAD8 || 1360 || 8Unicast || LPD6803, WS2801, WS2811, TM180x, TLS3001|| 8 Fused (2x4 Electrical, 2x4 Logical) || 4080 || 1 || || [http://www.j1sys.com/ecg-pixad8/ link] || Assembled Board: $155 || [http://www.j1sys.com/assets/PIXAD8-Guide-v0.1.pdf Owner's ] ||<br />
|-<br />
| ECG-P2 || 1360 || 8Unicast || LPD6803, WS2801, WS2811, TM180x, TLS3001|| 2 Unfused (2x1 Electrical, 2x1 Logical) || 4080 || 4 || || [http://www.j1sys.com/ecg-p2/ link] || Assembled Board: $68, Assembled Board w/case: $77 || [http://www.j1sys.com/assets/PIXAD8-Guide-v0.1.pdf Owner's ] ||<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===[http://stellascapes.com Stellascapes] ===<br />
(New Zealand Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?491-mrpackethead mrpackethead])<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
| Model || Max Pixels || DMX Universes || Pixels Supported || Output Connectors || Max Channels || DMX Universes per Output || Image || Link || Price || Manual || Note<br />
|-<br />
| E16-II Green || 672 || 6Unicast || Stella-green || 16 Fused (? Electrical, ? Logical) || 2016 || ? || || [http://www.stellascapes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=62 link] || Assembled Board: $1296 || ||16 Character LCD Display for diagnostics and identification information. <br />
|-<br />
| E16-II Commercial || 672 || 6Unicast || Stella-black || 16 Fused (? Electrical, ? Logical) || 2016 || ? || || [http://www.stellascapes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=62 link] || Assembled Board: $1995 || ||With power supply and 16 400mm "tails" with waterproof screw up connectors <br />
|-<br />
| E16-II Pro|| 672 || 6Unicast || Stella-black || 16 Fused (? Electrical, ? Logical) || 2016 || ? || || [http://www.stellascapes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=62 link] || Assembled Board: $?? || ||With power supply and Neutrik XLR, power and ethernet chasis connectors<br />
|-<br />
| E2|| 170 || 1Unicast || Stella-black || 2 ? || 512 || ? || || [http://www.stellascapes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=62 link] || Assembled Board: $?? || ||With power supply,operates on low voltage DC (12-48V)<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=='''DMX512 to SPI'''==<br />
These interfaces accept a DMX input and typically drive one or more pixel strings.<br />
===[http://www.j1sys.com/ Joshua 1 Systems (J1SYS)]===<br />
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?5441-j1sys j1sys])<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
| Model || Max Pixels || DMX Universes || Pixels Supported || Output Connectors || Max Channels || DMX Universes per Output || Image || Link || Price || Manual || Note<br />
|-<br />
| DCG-P2 || 170/680* || 1DMX/*4HyperDMX|| LPD6803, WS2801, WS2811, TM180x, TLS3001 || 2 Unfused (1x2 Electrical, 1x2 Logical) || 512DMX/*2048HyperDMX || 1 || || [http://www.j1sys.com link] || Assembled Board: $53 || ||2 Pixel Outputs share 1 DMX or 4 HyperDmx input channels <br />
|-<br />
| uDCG-P2 || 170/680* || 1DMX/*4HyperDMX|| LPD6803, WS2801, WS2811, TM180x, TLS3001 || 2 Unfused (1x2 Electrical, 1x2 Logical) || 512DMX/*2048HyperDMX || 1 || || [http://www.j1sys.com link] || Assembled Board: $42, Assembled Board w/Case: $48 || ||2 Pixel Outputs share 1 DMX or 4 HyperDmx input channels <br />
|}<br />
<br />
===[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/701799 Ray Wu] ===<br />
(China Based)<br />
<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Mini-protocol-Decoder-DMX-to-WS2801-512-dmx-address-decoded/701799_440556828.html Mini protocol Decoder;DMX to WS2801,512 dmx address decoded] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/f5/Onumen_Manual.pdf Manual]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DD-100-series-mini-DMX-protocol-decoder-support-WS2801-protocol-control-signal/701799_340705630.html DD-100 series mini DMX protocol decoder;support WS2801 protocol control signal] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/f5/Onumen_Manual.pdf Manual]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LT-DMX-1809-WS2811-DMX-Decoder-support-WS2811-TM1804-TM1809-TM1812-driving-IC-DC5V-24V-input/701799_583679340.html LT-DMX-1809(WS2811) DMX Decoder;support WS2811,TM1804,TM1809,TM1812 driving IC;DC5V-24V input] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/a/ad/LT-1809_DMX512_DECODER.pdf Manual]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LT-DMX-2801-DMX-SPI-Decoder-support-WS2801-WS2803-drving-IC/701799_509914025.html LT-DMX-2801 DMX-SPI Decoder;support WS2801,WS2803 drving IC] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/6/67/LT-2801_DMX512_DECODER.pdf Manual]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LT-DMX-3001-DMX-SPI-Decoder-support-TLS3001-TLS3002-driving-IC/701799_509913931.html LT-DMX-3001 DMX-SPI Decoder;support TLS3001, TLS3002 driving IC] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/f0/LT-3001_DMX512_DECODER.pdf Manual]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LT-6803-DMX-Decoder-DC5-24V-input-LPD6803-specific-protocol-output-signal-Max256-steps/701799_314083682.html LT-6803 DMX Decoder;DC5-24V input;LPD6803 specific protocol output signal;Max256 steps] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/3/3d/LT-6803_DMX512_DECODER.pdf Manual]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LT-DMX-9813-DMX-SPI-Decoder-support-P9813-drving-IC/701799_509914126.html LT-DMX-9813 DMX-SPI Decoder;support P9813 drving IC] [[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/3/3d/LT-6803_DMX512_DECODER.pdf Manual]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DD-1000-series-DMX-protocol-decoder-support-WS2801-IC-can-decodering-512-address/701799_340702410.html DD-1000 series DMX protocol decoder;support WS2801 IC;can decodering 512 address] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/f5/Onumen_Manual.pdf Manual]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DD-1000-series-DMX-protocol-decoder-support-LPD6803IC-signal-can-decodering-512-address/701799_340702107.html DD-1000 series DMX protocol decoder;support LPD6803IC signal;can decodering 512 address] [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/images/f/f5/Onumen_Manual.pdf Manual]<br />
<br />
===[http://www.holidaycoro.com HolidayCoro] ===<br />
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?3828-dmoore dmoore])<br />
*[http://www.holidaycoro.com/product-p/611.htm RS-485 DMX to SPI Pixel Decoder / Controller for 2811/2801/6803/1804/3001 5v and 12v Pixels]<br />
<br />
===[http://diybllc.com/ DIYB] ===<br />
(USA based) Run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?8235-charleskerr charleskerr]<br />
*[http://diybllc.com/LED-Pixel-String-Controller-5-volt-DIYB-LCPC-01.htm DMX to SPI Pixel Controller]<br />
<br />
===[http://www.electron-design.ru/ Electron Design] ===<br />
(Israel based)<br />
*[http://www.ebay.com/itm/321131195346 Combination Dumb RGB and DMX to SPI Pixel Decoder / Controller]<br />
<br />
===[https://www.audiovisualdevices.com.au/ AVD]===<br />
(Australia Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?4449-David_AVD David_AVD])<br />
* [https://www.audiovisualdevices.com.au/viewprod.php?catid=&productid=APC718 Audio Visual Devices APC718] Single SPI (2801 / 6803) output<br />
[http://auschristmaslighting.com/wiki/APC718 ACL Wiki ]<br />
<br />
[http://auschristmaslighting.com/forums/index.php/topic,1243.0.html ACL Thread]<br />
<br />
===[http://auschristmaslighting.com/ ACL]===<br />
* [http://forums.auschristmaslighting.com/index.php/board,34.0.html TP3244 Pixel Driver] 4 SPI (2801 / 6803) outputs<br />
<br />
The Tiger Protocol Bridge (TigerPB) TP3212 is a small controller for use with RGB LED lights and LED strips that utilise driver chips like the 6803/2801/3005. These are the currently targeted protocols and it is possible that other 2-wire and single wire protocols could be supported with firmware upgrades. This will provide future proofing of your controller.<br />
<br />
The initial release will accept a standard DMX512A data stream and provide control for 170 RGB Pixels (510ch). There will be dual buffered outputs that will allow you to split the 170 pixels into say 100/70 and run them in different directions and yet control them as a single 170 pixel string.<br />
Each dual buffered output will also allow for the parallel connection of the same number of pixels allowing for two strings to be used with the same patterns. If these are run in opposite directions they would provide for mirrored effects.<br />
Each of the Dual outputs will be able to drive different protocols if required.<br />
<br />
If ran with ECG product line from http://www.j1sys.com you can use hyper-DMX and this controller can be expanded to running 4 Universe's off each controller.<br />
<br />
More info to Follow and at this point '''this controller is no longer sold'''. It has been talked about coming back out. As the information comes in it will be updated. If you can get one used, they are still very nice units and work well.<br />
<br />
More info at http://auschristmaslighting.com/forums/index.php/board,34.0.html<br />
<br />
===Onumen===<br />
* [http://auschristmaslighting.com/wiki/Controllers#Onumen Onumen Controllers] (note that the start address of the DPP controllers cannot be fixed)<br />
<br />
===[http://shop.martinxmas.com/ RPM]===<br />
(USA Based run by DIYC member [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?1269-RPM RPM])<br />
* [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?15286-DMX-to-WS2801-Pixel-Bridge RPM Pixel Bridge]<br />
<br />
===[http://stellascapes.com Stellascapes] ===<br />
(New Zealand Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?491-mrpackethead mrpackethead])<br />
*T3: DMX512 - SPI Bridge<br />
The T3 controller provides a bridge between DMX512 and 4 strings of RGB pixels. <br />
<br />
More details at http://www.stellascapes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=62<br />
<br />
=='''SD Memory Card to SPI''' ==<br />
===[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/701799 Ray Wu] ===<br />
(China Based)<br />
<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/SD-LED-pixel-light-controller-support2-3-4wire/701799_404060519.html SD LED pixel light controller;support2,3,4wire]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/led-controller-for-WS2801-IC-dream-color-led-flexible-strip/701799_331817904.html led controller for WS2801 IC dream color led flexible strip]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/SD-card-DMX-compatible-intelligence-controller-for-pixel-RGB-module-support-CYT3005-IC-512-output-gray/701799_320682984.html SD card-DMX compatible-intelligence controller for pixel RGB module,support CYT3005 IC.512 output gray scale;Max2048 pixels]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-100K-B-SD-card-led-pixel-controller-AC85-265V-input/701799_533617766.html T-100K-B SD card led pixel controller;AC85-265V input]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-200K-led-pixel-controller-can-be-controlled-via-PC-suppor-many-kinds-of-IC/701799_497637885.html T-200K online led pixel controller,can be controlled via PC;suppor many kinds of IC;8ports*512pixels=4096pixels]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-300K-SD-card-led-pixel-controller-AC85-265V-input-can-control-more-than-6000pixels-via/701799_570149882.html T-300K;SD card led pixel controller;AC85-265V input;can control more than 6000pixels via PC,8 ports output]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-1000A-LED-sd-card-pixel-controller-DC5-24V-input/701799_683082725.html T-1000A,LED sd card pixel controller,DC5-24V input]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-1000B-led-pixel-controller-support-WS2801-LPD6803-WS2811-TM1804-TM1809-LPD8806-Etc-max-2048pixels-controlled/701799_715270878.html T-1000B,led pixel controller,support WS2801,LPD6803,WS2811,TM1804,TM1809,LPD8806.Etc;max 2048pixels controlled]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-1000S-SD-card-led-pixel-controller-2012-new-version/701799_533601713.html T-1000S SD card led pixel controller,2012 new version]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-1000Stand-SD-card-led-pixel-controller-2012-new-version-AC110V-220V-input/701799_533604220.html T-1000Stand SD card led pixel controller,2012 new version;AC110V/220V input]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-4000-LED-SD-card-led-pixel-controller-can-max-control-4096-pixels/701799_533608089.html T-4000 LED SD card led pixel controller;can max control 4096 pixels]<br />
*[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/T-8000C-SD-card-led-pixel-controller-AC85-265V-input/701799_533612960.html T-8000C SD card led pixel controller;AC85-265V input]<br />
<br />
=='''Light-O-Rama (LOR) to SPI''' ==<br />
<br />
===[http://www.http://www.lightorama.com Light-O-Rama (LOR)]===<br />
(USA Based)<br />
*[http://store.lightorama.com/cc100pisetwi.html Cosmic Color Pixels]<br />
*[http://store.lightorama.com/cc100busetwi.html Cosmic Color Bulbs]<br />
*[http://store.lightorama.com/cocori.html Cosmic Color Strip]<br />
<br />
=PIXEL Extenders=<br />
===[http://www.j1sys.com/ Joshua 1 Systems (J1SYS)]===<br />
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?5441-j1sys j1sys])<br />
<br />
*ECG-PPX<br />
ECG-PPX is a combination of small adapter boards that can be used in conjunction with our pixel oriented products (PIXAD8, P12R, etc.) to extend the pixel signals over much longer distances. They should also work with most other brands of pixel drivers. The ECG-PPX system also will distribute a modest power envelope over the same cable for optionally powering the pixels without the need for local power supplies at the pixel strings.<br />
More details at http://www.j1sys.com/ecg-ppx/<br />
*ECG-PPD-A – Powered Pixel Driver - 7VDC – 12VDC input range<br />
*ECG-PPD-B – Powered Pixel Driver - 7VDC – 40VDC input range<br />
*ECG-PPD-C – 4 Channel Powered Pixel Driver - 7VDC – 40VDC input range on Channel 1<br />
*ECG-PPR-A – Multi-Mode Powered Pixel Receiver<br />
*ECG-PPI-A – Powered Pixel Injector - 7VDC-40VDC Input, 5VDC 1.5A output<br />
<br />
=E1.31 Bridges and DMX Dongles=<br />
=='''E1.31 (Ethernet) to DMX or Renard Output'''==<br />
===[http://www.diyledexpress.com DIYLEDEXPRESS]===<br />
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?2860-tjetzer tjetzer])<br />
<br />
*[http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=157 6 Port E1.31 Bridge]<br />
<br />
===[http://www.j1sys.com/ Joshua 1 Systems (J1SYS)]===<br />
(USA Based run by DIYC user [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?5441-j1sys j1sys])<br />
<br />
*ECG-D8 (Under development)<br />
*[http://www.j1sys.com/ecg-dr4/ ECG-DR4]<br />
*[http://www.j1sys.com/ecg-d4/ ECG-D4]<br />
*[http://www.j1sys.com/ecg-d2/ ECG-D2]<br />
<br />
===[http://shop.martinxmas.com/ RPM]===<br />
(USA Based run by DIYC member [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/member.php?1269-RPM RPM])<br />
<br />
*[http://shop.martinxmas.com/product.php?id_product=43 E1.31 to DMX Bridge]<br />
<br />
[http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?15873-E1-31-(sACN)-to-DMX-Bridge Discussion Thread]<br />
<br />
=='''USB to DMX512 Output'''==<br />
USB DMX dongles are commonly used in conjunction with PC software to output a single universe (512 channels) of DMX.<br />
<br />
* [https://www.audiovisualdevices.com.au/viewprod.php?catid=&productid=USB485RJ-ISO Audio Visual Devices] or http://auschristmaslighting.com/wiki/index.php/USB485RJ-ISO<br />
* [http://www.enttec.com/index.php?main_menu=Products&pn=70303&show=description Enttec Open DMX USB]<br />
* [http://www.enttec.com/index.php?main_menu=Products&prod=70304&show=description Enttec DMX USB Pro]<br />
* [http://shop.martinxmas.com/product.php?id_product=10 RPM DIY USB to DMX Adaptor]<br />
* [http://www.holidaycoro.com/Enttec-Pro-Compatible-DMX-Dongle-p/53.htm HolidayCoro ActiDongle - Active DMX Dongle (Enttec Pro Compatible)]<br />
*[http://diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Equipment#DMX_Devices RJ's LYNX DMX DONGLE]<br />
<br />
<br />
FTDI drivers for dongles:<br />
* [http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm FTDI VCP Drivers]<br />
* [http://www.ftdichip.com/Documents/InstallGuides.htm Install Guides for FTDI Drivers]<br />
* [http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?17739-FTDI-USB-gt-Serial Updating a FTDI dongle's EEPROM]<br />
* [[USB2DMX|USB2DMX (which also goes by the name Yet Another DMX Adapter, or YADA)]]<br />
<br />
=Dumb RGB DC Controllers Feature Comparisons=<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ DC Controller Comparison Table<br />
! Manufacturer<br />
! Model<br />
! Pre-built<br />
! DC Voltage<br />
! Channels<br />
! Channel Current<br />
! Total Current<br />
! Protocol(s)<br />
! Total Price<br />
! Per Ch Price<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.lightorama.com/ Light-O-Rama]<br />
| [http://store.lightorama.com/cmdedcca.html CMB16D]<br />
| Yes<br />
| 5V - 60V<br />
| 16<br />
| 4A<br />
| 20A per 8 Ch<br />
| LOR, DMX<br />
| $119.95<br />
| $7.49<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.lightorama.com/ Light-O-Rama]<br />
| [http://store.lightorama.com/cmdedcca2.html CMB16D-QC]<br />
| Yes<br />
| 5V - 60V<br />
| 16<br />
| 4A<br />
| 20A per 8 Ch<br />
| LOR, DMX<br />
| $99.95<br />
| $6.24<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.tigerdmx.com TigerDMX]<br />
| [[TigerDMX48]]<br />
| Yes<br />
| 9V - 55V<br />
| 48<br />
| 2.5A<br />
| 30A per 24 Ch<br />
| DMX<br />
| $145.00<br />
| $3.02<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.tigerdmx.com TigerDMX]<br />
| [http://www.tigerdmx.com/tigerdmx120lc.php TigerDMX120LC]<br />
| Yes<br />
| 12V - 36V<br />
| 120<br />
| 100mA<br />
| <br />
| DMX<br />
| $125.00<br />
| $1.04<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.audiovisualdevices.com.au AVD]<br />
| [[DC48]]<br />
| Yes<br />
| 12V - 36V<br />
| 48<br />
| 2A<br />
| 20A per 24 Ch<br />
| DMX<br />
| $199.00<br />
| $4.15<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.audiovisualdevices.com.au AVD]<br />
| [[DC24]]<br />
| Yes<br />
| 12V - 36V<br />
| 24<br />
| 2A<br />
| 15A per 12 Ch<br />
| DMX<br />
| $129.00<br />
| $5.38<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.cngdjs.com Audiolight Intl]<br />
| HD-714 [http://www.holidaycoro.com/product-p/37.htm] [http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209915969-378113147/Easy-DMX-LED-controller-dmx-decoder-driver.html]<br />
| Yes<br />
| 12V - 24V<br />
| 3<br />
| 2A<br />
| 6A<br />
| DMX<br />
| $8.95<br />
| $2.98<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.cngdjs.com Audiolight Intl]<br />
| HD-712 [http://www.holidaycoro.com/product-p/24.htm] [http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209915969-378111925/Easy-DMX-LED-controller-dmx-decoder-driver.html] <br />
| Yes<br />
| 12V - 24V<br />
| 27<br />
| 1A<br />
| 15A<br />
| DMX<br />
| $44.21<br />
| $1.64<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.leynew.com Leynew]<br />
| LN-DMXMODEL-3CH-LV12 [http://www.holidaycoro.com/product-p/26.htm Bare Leads] [http://www.holidaycoro.com/product-p/30.htm CAT5 Input] [http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209915969-307297826/DMX-512-Module-decoder.html]<br />
| Yes<br />
| 12V<br />
| 3<br />
| 2A<br />
| 6A<br />
| DMX<br />
| $7.49<br />
| $2.49<br />
|-<br />
| [http://http://www.euchips.com/en/ EUChips]<br />
| [http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209915969-410843238/DMX512-Decoder-DC12-24V-input-max-3A-each-channel-output.html PX24506]<br />
| Yes<br />
| 12V - 24V<br />
| 3<br />
| 3A<br />
| 9A<br />
| DMX<br />
| $22.32<br />
| $7.44<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.xmasinmelb.com/zencart/ wjohn]<br />
| [[DMX3]]<br />
| No<br />
| 9-35vdc<br />
| 3<br />
| 2A per Chn<br />
| up to 6A <br />
| DMX<br />
| $9.00<br />
| $3.00<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.xmasinmelb.com/zencart/ wjohn]<br />
| [[DMX16DCSSR]]<br />
| No<br />
| 12-24vdc<br />
| 16<br />
| 2A per Chn<br />
| up to 10A <br />
| DMX<br />
| $48.00<br />
| $3.00<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.xmasinmelb.com/zencart/ wjohn]<br />
| [[REN64]]<br />
| No<br />
| 9-35vdc<br />
| 64<br />
| 2A per Chn<br />
| up to 7A per SSR<br />
| RS232/485, DMX<br />
| $67.50<br />
| $1.05<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Main_Page Renard]<br />
| [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren48LSDv3c Ren48LSD]<br />
| No<br />
| 5,9-24vdc<br />
| 48<br />
| 400mA<br />
| 9.6A x 2<br />
| RS232/485, DMX<br />
| $44.66<br />
| $0.93<br />
|-<br />
| [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=35_57 DIYLEDExpress]<br />
| [http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren24DC Ren24DC]<br />
| Built or Kit<br />
| 5,7-24vdc<br />
| 24<br />
| 4A<br />
| 30A x 2<br />
| RS232/485, DMX<br />
| $72.10<br />
| $3<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DM-103-3-channel-RGB-dmx-constant-voltage-decoder-DC12-24V-input-max-2A-3channel-output/701799_868042910.html DM103 Ray Wu DMX to 3 Channel]<br />
<br />
=Related Links=<br />
[[Different Styles of Pixels]] <br><br />
[[Pixel Wiring Colors]] <br><br />
[[Dumb RGB or Intelligent Pixels??]] <br><br />
[[Things You Will Need To Get Started With Pixels]] <br><br />
[[Power Supplies]] <br><br />
[[Pixel Connectors]]<br><br />
[[Choosing a Pixel Voltage: 5V vs 12V]]<br><br />
[[Power Injection]]<br><br />
[[Waterproofing Pixels]]<br><br />
[[Null Pixels]]<br><br />
[[E1.31_(Streaming-ACN)_Protocol|E1.31 Network Setup and Configuration]]<br />
<br />
[[Category:RGB]]<br />
[[Category:Pixel]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren24DC&diff=11533Ren24DC2014-03-24T18:05:40Z<p>Dlovely: /* Building the Ren24DC */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ren24DC.png|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Ren24DC Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Ren24DC?==<br />
<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==Ren24DC Parts==<br />
To build the Ren24DC, you need 4 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_57&products_id=277 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
# A [[Ren24DC#Power|power supply]] to power the board. The board can use any 5-24VDC power supply.<br />
# An [[Enclosures|enclosure]] to mount the finished board in. Commonly used enclosures include the [[Enclosures#CG-500_.28CableGuard_500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-500]], [[Enclosures#CG-1000_.28CableGuard_1000_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure|CG-1000]] or the [[Enclosures#CG-1500_.28CableGuard_1500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-2000]] which are available from several [[Enclosures#Vendors|vendors]]<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>#</td><td>Resistor</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=f998b5a72f Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_57&products_id=278 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Ren24DC==<br />
<br />
The Ren24DC requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ren24DC-Step30-Final.jpg|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the five 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C1-C5. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 27K Ohm resistors (red, violet, orange, gold) R1,R2 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 1K Ohm resistors (brown, black, red, gold) R3,R4 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 220 Ohm resistors (red, red, brown, gold) R5 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 120 Ohm resistor (brown, red, brown, gold) R6 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the twenty-four 470 Ohm resistors (yellow, violet, brown, gold) R7,R9,R12,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23,R25,R27,R29,R30,R32,R34,R36,R38,R40,R42,R44,R46,R48,R50,R52,R54 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the twenty-seven 10K Ohm resistors (brown, black, orange, gold) R8,R10,R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R28,R30,R31,R33,R35,R37,R39,R41,R43,R45,R47,R49,R51,R53,R55,R56,R57 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 2.2K Ohm resistors (red, red, red, gold) R58,R59 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way. '''NOTE: The silkscreen says 680 but the BOM supplies a 2.2K Ohm resistor to work with the full range voltages the board supports. If you use a 680 Ohm resistor keep the voltage under 12V!'''<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install zener diode D1 (1N5229B). The diode must be installed correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the PCB silkscreen (to the left). <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install zener diode D2 (1N5239B). The diode must be installed correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the PCB silkscreen (to the left). <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 8-pin IC sockets for IC4,IC5. Install with the notch to the top. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install three 14-pin IC sockets for IC1,IC2,IC3. Install with the notch to the right.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - (OPTIONAL!! Not needed for the PIC16F1825) Install the clock oscillator OSC1. The oscillator must be installed in the correct orientation. The oscillator has three rounded corners and one squared corner, make sure that the squared corner is positioned to match the PCB silkscreen (upper left corner).<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two green LED LED2,LED3. The LEDs are polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step15.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one red LED LED1. The LED is polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step16.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 2-pin vertical headers JP1,JP2. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step17.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one dual row 3-pin vertical header JP3. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step18.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one 3-pin vertical header JP4. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step19.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one 5-pin vertical header JP5. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step20.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install ten fuse clips. The fuse clips have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step21.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install eight terminal blocks sets for RGB outputs. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step22.jpg|300px]] <br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 47uF capacitors C6,C7. This capacitor is polarized and must be installed correctly. The capacitor should have a silver/grey stripe on the body to indicate which lead is negative. The positive lead of the capacitor will be the longer lead. Make sure that the positive lead is placed in the pad with the +.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step23.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two RJ45 modular jacks J1,J2. Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 jacks are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step24.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the DC-DC Converter VR1. The voltage regulator is polarized and must only be installed one way. The flat side of the voltage regulator must be mounted towards the left side of the board, aligning with the stripe on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step25.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two large terminal blocks for the inputs. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step26.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the twenty-four MOSFETs. The MOSFETs are polarized and they should be installed with the tab facing the screw terminals.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step27.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the four required jumpers. Default settings are: JP3 - Two jumpers shorting 1/2. JP4 - Make selection on Voltage used. JP5 - Jumper pins 4/5.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step28.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the eight 15A and two 30A Fuses. The Two Green 30A Fuses are installed at the bottom of the board.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step29.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren24DC!<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step30-Final.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - DMX Termination====<br />
Install shunt to terminate DMX input<br />
====JP2 - RS232 Mode====<br />
Install shunt for RS232 input<br />
====JP3 - Data Mode====<br />
Normal Operation Jumper Pins 1/2 on both rows<br/><br />
Thru Operation Jumper Pins 2/3 on both rows<br/><br />
====JP4 - Power Jumper====<br />
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).<br />
<br />
You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board.<br />
====JP5 - Wireless Header====<br />
Install shunt on pins 4/5 for normal operation.<br/><br />
Pin 1 - +5V<br/><br />
Pin 2 - No Connection<br/><br />
Pin 3 - GND<br/><br />
Pin 4 - Data From RS485<br/><br />
Pin 5 - Data To PIC<br/><br />
<br />
==Powering the Ren24DC==<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Ren24DC, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Ren24DC and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Ren24DC to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pixel_Extender&diff=11531Pixel Extender2014-03-23T19:00:29Z<p>Dlovely: /* Building the Pixel Extender */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Pixel Extender Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Pixel Extender?==<br />
<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==Pixel Extender Parts==<br />
To build the Pixel Extender, you need 2 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=279 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>#</td><td>Resistor</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=f998b5a72f Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=280 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
Take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:#:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 680 Ohm resistors (blue, gray, brown, gold) R1 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 1K Ohm resistors (brown, black, red, gold) R2,R3 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 27K Ohm resistors (red, violet, orange, gold) R4,R5 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 120 Ohm resistor (brown, red, brown, gold) R6 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the three 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C1-C3. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one green LED LED1. The LEDs are polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the top hole closest to the mount hole.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 8-pin IC sockets for IC1. Install with the notch to the bottom matching the notch on the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the 5v linear regulator. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face the bottom to match the orientation on the silkscreen. NOTE: IF YOU PLAN TO USE 5VDC LOADS, SEE THE DESIGN OPTIONS SECTION BELOW BEFORE INSTALLING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one fuse clip. The fuse clip has no polarity to worry about.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the pixel output block with the notches matching the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one terminal block for the power input. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one RJ45 modular jacks J1. Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 jacks are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Pixel Extender!<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - 5V Bypass====<br />
Install shunt instead of 5V Regulator to use with 5V Pixels.<br />
<br />
==Powering the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Pixel Extender, connected it up to your E1.31 Bridge and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Pixel Extender and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Pixel Extender to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pixel_Extender&diff=11530Pixel Extender2014-03-23T18:33:54Z<p>Dlovely: /* Building the Pixel Extender */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Pixel Extender Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Pixel Extender?==<br />
<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==Pixel Extender Parts==<br />
To build the Pixel Extender, you need 2 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=279 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>#</td><td>Resistor</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=f998b5a72f Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=280 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
Take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:#:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 680 Ohm resistors (blue, gray, brown, gold) R1 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 1K Ohm resistors (brown, black, red, gold) R2,R3 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 27K Ohm resistors (red, violet, orange, gold) R4,R5 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 120 Ohm resistor (brown, red, brown, gold) R6 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the three 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C1-C5. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one green LED LED1. The LEDs are polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the top hole closest to the mount hole.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 8-pin IC sockets for IC4,IC5. Install with the notch to the bottom matching the notch on the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the 5v linear regulator. Note the regulator is polarized and the flat side should face the bottom to match the orientation on the silkscreen. NOTE: IF YOU PLAN TO USE 5VDC LOADS, SEE THE DESIGN OPTIONS SECTION BELOW BEFORE INSTALLING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one fuse clip. The fuse clip has no polarity to worry about.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the pixel output block with the notches matching the PCB.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one terminal block for the power input. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one RJ45 modular jacks J1. Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 jacks are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Pixel Extender!<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - 5V Bypass====<br />
Install shunt instead of 5V Regulator to use with 5V Pixels.<br />
<br />
==Powering the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Pixel Extender, connected it up to your E1.31 Bridge and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Pixel Extender and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Pixel Extender to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg&diff=11529File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg2014-03-23T18:21:23Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PixelExtender-Step12.jpg&diff=11528File:PixelExtender-Step12.jpg2014-03-23T18:21:09Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PixelExtender-Step11.jpg&diff=11527File:PixelExtender-Step11.jpg2014-03-23T18:20:50Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PixelExtender-Step10.jpg&diff=11526File:PixelExtender-Step10.jpg2014-03-23T18:20:36Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PixelExtender-Step9.jpg&diff=11525File:PixelExtender-Step9.jpg2014-03-23T18:20:21Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PixelExtender-Step8.jpg&diff=11524File:PixelExtender-Step8.jpg2014-03-23T18:20:10Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PixelExtender-Step7.jpg&diff=11523File:PixelExtender-Step7.jpg2014-03-23T18:19:57Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PixelExtender-Step6.jpg&diff=11522File:PixelExtender-Step6.jpg2014-03-23T18:19:46Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PixelExtender-Step5.jpg&diff=11521File:PixelExtender-Step5.jpg2014-03-23T18:19:35Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PixelExtender-Step4.jpg&diff=11520File:PixelExtender-Step4.jpg2014-03-23T18:19:23Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PixelExtender-Step3.jpg&diff=11519File:PixelExtender-Step3.jpg2014-03-23T18:19:10Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PixelExtender-Step2.jpg&diff=11518File:PixelExtender-Step2.jpg2014-03-23T18:18:56Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:PixelExtender-Step1.jpg&diff=11517File:PixelExtender-Step1.jpg2014-03-23T18:18:38Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pixel_Extender&diff=11516Pixel Extender2014-03-23T18:18:24Z<p>Dlovely: Created page with "600px =Disclaimers= The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed here.<br/..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Pixel Extender Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Pixel Extender?==<br />
<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==Pixel Extender Parts==<br />
To build the Pixel Extender, you need 2 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=279 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>#</td><td>Resistor</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=f998b5a72f Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=280 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
Take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|300px]]|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the <br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the <br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the <br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the <br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the <br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the <br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the <br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the <br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the <br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the <br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the <br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Pixel Extender!<br />
#:[[File:PixelExtender-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - 5V Bypass====<br />
Install shunt instead of 5V Regulator to use with 5V Pixels.<br />
<br />
==Powering the Pixel Extender==<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Pixel Extender, connected it up to your E1.31 Bridge and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Pixel Extender and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Pixel Extender to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren24DC&diff=11515Ren24DC2014-03-22T20:28:00Z<p>Dlovely: /* Building the Ren24DC */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ren24DC.png|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Ren24DC Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Ren24DC?==<br />
<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==Ren24DC Parts==<br />
To build the Ren24DC, you need 4 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_57&products_id=277 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
# A [[Ren24DC#Power|power supply]] to power the board. The board can use any 5-24VDC power supply.<br />
# An [[Enclosures|enclosure]] to mount the finished board in. Commonly used enclosures include the [[Enclosures#CG-500_.28CableGuard_500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-500]], [[Enclosures#CG-1000_.28CableGuard_1000_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure|CG-1000]] or the [[Enclosures#CG-1500_.28CableGuard_1500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-2000]] which are available from several [[Enclosures#Vendors|vendors]]<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>#</td><td>Resistor</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=f998b5a72f Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_57&products_id=278 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Ren24DC==<br />
<br />
The Ren24DC requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ren24DC-Step30-Final.jpg|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the five 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C1-C5. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 27K Ohm resistors (red, violet, orange, gold) R1,R2 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 1K Ohm resistors (brown, black, red, gold) R3,R4 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 220 Ohm resistors (red, red, brown, gold) R5 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 120 Ohm resistor (brown, red, brown, gold) R6 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the twenty-four 470 Ohm resistors (yellow, violet, brown, gold) R7,R9,R12,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23,R25,R27,R29,R30,R32,R34,R36,R38,R40,R42,R44,R46,R48,R50,R52,R54 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the twenty-seven 10K Ohm resistors (brown, black, orange, gold) R8,R10,R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R28,R30,R31,R33,R35,R37,R39,R41,R43,R45,R47,R49,R51,R53,R55,R56,R57 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 2.2K Ohm resistors (red, red, red, gold) R58,R59 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install zener diode D1 (1N5229B). The diode must be installed correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the PCB silkscreen (to the left). <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install zener diode D2 (1N5239B). The diode must be installed correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the PCB silkscreen (to the left). <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 8-pin IC sockets for IC4,IC5. Install with the notch to the top. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install three 14-pin IC sockets for IC1,IC2,IC3. Install with the notch to the right.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - (OPTIONAL!! Not needed for the PIC16F1825) Install the clock oscillator OSC1. The oscillator must be installed in the correct orientation. The oscillator has three rounded corners and one squared corner, make sure that the squared corner is positioned to match the PCB silkscreen (upper left corner).<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two green LED LED2,LED3. The LEDs are polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step15.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one red LED LED1. The LED is polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step16.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 2-pin vertical headers JP1,JP2. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step17.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one dual row 3-pin vertical header JP3. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step18.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one 3-pin vertical header JP4. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step19.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one 5-pin vertical header JP5. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step20.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install ten fuse clips. The fuse clips have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step21.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install eight terminal blocks sets for RGB outputs. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step22.jpg|300px]] <br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 47uF capacitors C6,C7. This capacitor is polarized and must be installed correctly. The capacitor should have a silver/grey stripe on the body to indicate which lead is negative. The positive lead of the capacitor will be the longer lead. Make sure that the positive lead is placed in the pad with the +.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step23.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two RJ45 modular jacks J1,J2. Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 jacks are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step24.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the DC-DC Converter VR1. The voltage regulator is polarized and must only be installed one way. The flat side of the voltage regulator must be mounted towards the left side of the board, aligning with the stripe on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step25.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two large terminal blocks for the inputs. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step26.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the twenty-four MOSFETs. The MOSFETs are polarized and they should be installed with the tab facing the screw terminals.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step27.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the four required jumpers. Default settings are: JP3 - Two jumpers shorting 1/2. JP4 - Make selection on Voltage used. JP5 - Jumper pins 4/5.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step28.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the eight 15A and two 30A Fuses. The Two Green 30A Fuses are installed at the bottom of the board.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step29.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren24DC!<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step30-Final.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - DMX Termination====<br />
Install shunt to terminate DMX input<br />
====JP2 - RS232 Mode====<br />
Install shunt for RS232 input<br />
====JP3 - Data Mode====<br />
Normal Operation Jumper Pins 1/2 on both rows<br/><br />
Thru Operation Jumper Pins 2/3 on both rows<br/><br />
====JP4 - Power Jumper====<br />
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).<br />
<br />
You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board.<br />
====JP5 - Wireless Header====<br />
Install shunt on pins 4/5 for normal operation.<br/><br />
Pin 1 - +5V<br/><br />
Pin 2 - No Connection<br/><br />
Pin 3 - GND<br/><br />
Pin 4 - Data From RS485<br/><br />
Pin 5 - Data To PIC<br/><br />
<br />
==Powering the Ren24DC==<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Ren24DC, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Ren24DC and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Ren24DC to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren24DC&diff=11514Ren24DC2014-03-22T20:26:06Z<p>Dlovely: /* Building the Ren24DC */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ren24DC.png|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Ren24DC Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Ren24DC?==<br />
<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==Ren24DC Parts==<br />
To build the Ren24DC, you need 4 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_57&products_id=277 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
# A [[Ren24DC#Power|power supply]] to power the board. The board can use any 5-24VDC power supply.<br />
# An [[Enclosures|enclosure]] to mount the finished board in. Commonly used enclosures include the [[Enclosures#CG-500_.28CableGuard_500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-500]], [[Enclosures#CG-1000_.28CableGuard_1000_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure|CG-1000]] or the [[Enclosures#CG-1500_.28CableGuard_1500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-2000]] which are available from several [[Enclosures#Vendors|vendors]]<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>#</td><td>Resistor</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=f998b5a72f Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_57&products_id=278 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Ren24DC==<br />
<br />
The Ren24DC requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ren24DC.png|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the five 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C1-C5. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 27K Ohm resistors (red, violet, orange, gold) R1,R2 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 1K Ohm resistors (brown, black, red, gold) R3,R4 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 220 Ohm resistors (red, red, brown, gold) R5 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the one 120 Ohm resistor (brown, red, brown, gold) R6 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the twenty-four 470 Ohm resistors (yellow, violet, brown, gold) R7,R9,R12,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23,R25,R27,R29,R30,R32,R34,R36,R38,R40,R42,R44,R46,R48,R50,R52,R54 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the twenty-seven 10K Ohm resistors (brown, black, orange, gold) R8,R10,R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R28,R30,R31,R33,R35,R37,R39,R41,R43,R45,R47,R49,R51,R53,R55,R56,R57 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the two 2.2K Ohm resistors (red, red, red, gold) R58,R59 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install zener diode D1 (1N5229B). The diode must be installed correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the PCB silkscreen (to the left). <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install zener diode D2 (1N5239B). The diode must be installed correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the PCB silkscreen (to the left). <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 8-pin IC sockets for IC4,IC5. Install with the notch to the top. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install three 14-pin IC sockets for IC1,IC2,IC3. Install with the notch to the right.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - (OPTIONAL!! Not needed for the PIC16F1825) Install the clock oscillator OSC1. The oscillator must be installed in the correct orientation. The oscillator has three rounded corners and one squared corner, make sure that the squared corner is positioned to match the PCB silkscreen (upper left corner).<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two green LED LED2,LED3. The LEDs are polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step15.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one red LED LED1. The LED is polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step16.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 2-pin vertical headers JP1,JP2. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step17.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one dual row 3-pin vertical header JP3. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step18.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one 3-pin vertical header JP4. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step19.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one 5-pin vertical header JP5. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step20.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install ten fuse clips. The fuse clips have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step21.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install eight terminal blocks sets for RGB outputs. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step22.jpg|300px]] <br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 47uF capacitors C6,C7. This capacitor is polarized and must be installed correctly. The capacitor should have a silver/grey stripe on the body to indicate which lead is negative. The positive lead of the capacitor will be the longer lead. Make sure that the positive lead is placed in the pad with the +.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step23.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two RJ45 modular jacks J1,J2. Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 jacks are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step24.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the DC-DC Converter VR1. The voltage regulator is polarized and must only be installed one way. The flat side of the voltage regulator must be mounted towards the left side of the board, aligning with the stripe on the pcb.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step25.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two large terminal blocks for the inputs. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step26.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the twenty-four MOSFETs. The MOSFETs are polarized and they should be installed with the tab facing the screw terminals.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step27.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the four required jumpers. Default settings are: JP3 - Two jumpers shorting 1/2. JP4 - Make selection on Voltage used. JP5 - Jumper pins 4/5.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step28.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install the eight 15A and two 30A Fuses. The Two Green 30A Fuses are installed at the bottom of the board.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step29.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren24DC!<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step30-Final.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - DMX Termination====<br />
Install shunt to terminate DMX input<br />
====JP2 - RS232 Mode====<br />
Install shunt for RS232 input<br />
====JP3 - Data Mode====<br />
Normal Operation Jumper Pins 1/2 on both rows<br/><br />
Thru Operation Jumper Pins 2/3 on both rows<br/><br />
====JP4 - Power Jumper====<br />
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).<br />
<br />
You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board.<br />
====JP5 - Wireless Header====<br />
Install shunt on pins 4/5 for normal operation.<br/><br />
Pin 1 - +5V<br/><br />
Pin 2 - No Connection<br/><br />
Pin 3 - GND<br/><br />
Pin 4 - Data From RS485<br/><br />
Pin 5 - Data To PIC<br/><br />
<br />
==Powering the Ren24DC==<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Ren24DC, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Ren24DC and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Ren24DC to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren24DC&diff=11513Ren24DC2014-03-22T20:15:12Z<p>Dlovely: /* Building the Ren24DC */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ren24DC.png|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Ren24DC Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Ren24DC?==<br />
<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==Ren24DC Parts==<br />
To build the Ren24DC, you need 4 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_57&products_id=277 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
# A [[Ren24DC#Power|power supply]] to power the board. The board can use any 5-24VDC power supply.<br />
# An [[Enclosures|enclosure]] to mount the finished board in. Commonly used enclosures include the [[Enclosures#CG-500_.28CableGuard_500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-500]], [[Enclosures#CG-1000_.28CableGuard_1000_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure|CG-1000]] or the [[Enclosures#CG-1500_.28CableGuard_1500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-2000]] which are available from several [[Enclosures#Vendors|vendors]]<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>#</td><td>Resistor</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=f998b5a72f Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_57&products_id=278 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Ren24DC==<br />
<br />
The Ren24DC requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ren24DC.png|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the five 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C1-C5. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two 27K Ohm resistors (red, violet, orange, gold) R1,R2 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two 1K Ohm resistors (brown, black, red, gold) R3,R4 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the one 220 Ohm resistors (red, red, brown, gold) R5 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the one 120 Ohm resistor (brown, red, brown, gold) R6 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the twenty-four 470 Ohm resistors (yellow, violet, brown, gold) R7,R9,R12,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23,R25,R27,R29,R30,R32,R34,R36,R38,R40,R42,R44,R46,R48,R50,R52,R54 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the twenty-seven 10K Ohm resistors (brown, black, orange, gold) R8,R10,R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R28,R30,R31,R33,R35,R37,R39,R41,R43,R45,R47,R49,R51,R53,R55,R56,R57 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two 2.2K Ohm resistors (red, red, red, gold) R58,R59 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install zener diode D1 (1N5229B). The diode must be installed correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the PCB silkscreen (to the left). <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install zener diode D2 (1N5239B). The diode must be installed correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the PCB silkscreen (to the left). <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 8-pin IC sockets for IC4,IC5. Install with the notch to the top. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install three 14-pin IC sockets for IC1,IC2,IC3. Install with the notch to the right.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - (OPTIONAL!! Not needed for the PIC16F1825) Install the clock oscillator OSC1. The oscillator must be installed in the correct orientation. The oscillator has three rounded corners and one squared corner, make sure that the squared corner is positioned to match the PCB silkscreen (upper left corner).<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two green LED LED2,LED3. The LEDs are polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step15.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one red LED LED1. The LED is polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step16.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 2-pin vertical headers JP1,JP2. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step17.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one dual row 3-pin vertical header JP3. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step18.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one 3-pin vertical header JP4. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step19.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one 5-pin vertical header JP5. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step20.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install ten fuse clips. The fuse clips have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step21.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install eight terminal blocks sets for RGB outputs. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step22.jpg|300px]] <br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 47uF capacitors C6,C7. This capacitor is polarized and must be installed correctly. The capacitor should have a silver/grey stripe on the body to indicate which lead is negative. The positive lead of the capacitor will be the longer lead. Make sure that the positive lead is placed in the pad with the +.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step23.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two large terminal blocks for the inputs. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install ten RJ45 modular jacks J1,J2. Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 jacks are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board. <br />
<br />
<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step24.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step25.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step26.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step27.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step28.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step29.jpg|300px]]<br />
Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren24DC!<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step30-Final.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - DMX Termination====<br />
Install shunt to terminate DMX input<br />
====JP2 - RS232 Mode====<br />
Install shunt for RS232 input<br />
====JP3 - Data Mode====<br />
Normal Operation Jumper Pins 1/2 on both rows<br/><br />
Thru Operation Jumper Pins 2/3 on both rows<br/><br />
====JP4 - Power Jumper====<br />
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).<br />
<br />
You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board.<br />
====JP5 - Wireless Header====<br />
Install shunt on pins 4/5 for normal operation.<br/><br />
Pin 1 - +5V<br/><br />
Pin 2 - No Connection<br/><br />
Pin 3 - GND<br/><br />
Pin 4 - Data From RS485<br/><br />
Pin 5 - Data To PIC<br/><br />
<br />
==Powering the Ren24DC==<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Ren24DC, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Ren24DC and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Ren24DC to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren24DC&diff=11512Ren24DC2014-03-22T19:57:03Z<p>Dlovely: /* Building the Ren24DC */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ren24DC.png|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Ren24DC Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Ren24DC?==<br />
<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==Ren24DC Parts==<br />
To build the Ren24DC, you need 4 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_57&products_id=277 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
# A [[Ren24DC#Power|power supply]] to power the board. The board can use any 5-24VDC power supply.<br />
# An [[Enclosures|enclosure]] to mount the finished board in. Commonly used enclosures include the [[Enclosures#CG-500_.28CableGuard_500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-500]], [[Enclosures#CG-1000_.28CableGuard_1000_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure|CG-1000]] or the [[Enclosures#CG-1500_.28CableGuard_1500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-2000]] which are available from several [[Enclosures#Vendors|vendors]]<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>#</td><td>Resistor</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=f998b5a72f Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_57&products_id=278 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Ren24DC==<br />
<br />
The Ren24DC requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ren24DC.png|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the five 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C1-C5. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two 27K Ohm resistors (red, violet, orange, gold) R1,R2 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two 1K Ohm resistors (brown, black, red, gold) R3,R4 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the one 220 Ohm resistors (red, red, brown, gold) R5 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the one 120 Ohm resistor (brown, red, brown, gold) R6 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the twenty-four 470 Ohm resistors (yellow, violet, brown, gold) R7,R9,R12,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23,R25,R27,R29,R30,R32,R34,R36,R38,R40,R42,R44,R46,R48,R50,R52,R54 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the twenty-seven 10K Ohm resistors (brown, black, orange, gold) R8,R10,R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R28,R30,R31,R33,R35,R37,R39,R41,R43,R45,R47,R49,R51,R53,R55,R56,R57 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two 2.2K Ohm resistors (red, red, red, gold) R58,R59 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install zener diode D1 (1N5229B). The diode must be installed correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the PCB silkscreen (to the left). <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install zener diode D2 (1N5239B). The diode must be installed correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the PCB silkscreen (to the left). <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 8-pin IC sockets for IC4,IC5. Install with the notch to the top. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install three 14-pin IC sockets for IC1,IC2,IC3. Install with the notch to the right.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - (OPTIONAL!! Not needed for the PIC16F1825) Install the clock oscillator OSC1. The oscillator must be installed in the correct orientation. The oscillator has three rounded corners and one squared corner, make sure that the squared corner is positioned to match the PCB <br />
silkscreen (upper left corner).<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two green LED LED2,LED3. The LEDs are polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step15.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one red LED LED1. The LED is polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step16.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 2-pin vertical headers JP1,JP2. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step17.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one dual row 3-pin vertical header JP3. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step18.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one 3-pin vertical header JP4. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step19.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one 5-pin vertical header JP5. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step20.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install eight terminal blocks sets for RGB outputs. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step21.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 47uF capacitors C6,C7. This capacitor is polarized and must be installed correctly. The capacitor should have a silver/grey stripe on the body to indicate which lead is negative. The positive lead of the capacitor will be the longer lead. Make sure that the positive lead is placed in the pad with the +.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step22.jpg|300px]] <br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two large terminal blocks for the inputs. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install ten RJ45 modular jacks J1,J2. Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 jacks are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step23.jpg|300px]]<br />
Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren24DC!<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step24.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step25.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step26.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step27.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step28.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step29.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step30-Final.jpg|300px]]<br />
<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - DMX Termination====<br />
Install shunt to terminate DMX input<br />
====JP2 - RS232 Mode====<br />
Install shunt for RS232 input<br />
====JP3 - Data Mode====<br />
Normal Operation Jumper Pins 1/2 on both rows<br/><br />
Thru Operation Jumper Pins 2/3 on both rows<br/><br />
====JP4 - Power Jumper====<br />
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).<br />
<br />
You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board.<br />
====JP5 - Wireless Header====<br />
Install shunt on pins 4/5 for normal operation.<br/><br />
Pin 1 - +5V<br/><br />
Pin 2 - No Connection<br/><br />
Pin 3 - GND<br/><br />
Pin 4 - Data From RS485<br/><br />
Pin 5 - Data To PIC<br/><br />
<br />
==Powering the Ren24DC==<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Ren24DC, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Ren24DC and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Ren24DC to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ren24DC&diff=11511Ren24DC2014-03-22T19:49:25Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Ren24DC.png|600px]]<br />
=Disclaimers=<br />
The standard disclaimers pertaining to the information contained on this wiki page are listed [[Disclaimers | here.]]<br/><br />
'''THIS WIKI PAGE IS NOT COMPLETE YET AND HAS NOT BEEN CHECKED FOR ERRORS.'''<br/><br />
<br />
=Ren24DC Construction Manual=<br />
<br />
==''What'' is the Ren24DC?==<br />
<br />
<br />
==Revision History==<br />
<br />
==Ren24DC Parts==<br />
To build the Ren24DC, you need 4 things:<br />
# The [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_57&products_id=277 PCB]<br />
# The parts to solder on the board, also known as a BOM (Bill Of Materials).<br />
# A [[Ren24DC#Power|power supply]] to power the board. The board can use any 5-24VDC power supply.<br />
# An [[Enclosures|enclosure]] to mount the finished board in. Commonly used enclosures include the [[Enclosures#CG-500_.28CableGuard_500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-500]], [[Enclosures#CG-1000_.28CableGuard_1000_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure|CG-1000]] or the [[Enclosures#CG-1500_.28CableGuard_1500_Coax_Demarcation_Enclosure.29|CG-2000]] which are available from several [[Enclosures#Vendors|vendors]]<br />
<br />
The BOM parts needed to build the board are:<br />
<table border="1"><tr><td>'''Mouser BOM'''</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>Part ID</td><td>Mouser PN</td><td>Description</td><td>Qty</td></tr><br />
<tr><td>R1</td><td>#</td><td>Resistor</td><td>3</td></tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
You can buy the parts directly from Mouser: [http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=f998b5a72f Click here for Mouser Direct Project BOM]<br />
or<br />
The BOM is also available at a discount in a kit that includes the PCB from [http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_57&products_id=278 DIYLEDExpress.com]<br/><br />
<br />
==Building the Ren24DC==<br />
<br />
The Ren24DC requires a fair bit of soldering so take your time and ensure you<br />
install the components in the correct orientation when required. Start by sorting<br />
the components by type and values. Look over the PCB before starting noting the<br />
location of the various components. Follow the standard procedure of installing<br />
the lowest profile parts first and ending up with the tallest. You can click on any photo to see a larger version of the image.<br />
<br />
[[File:Ren24DC.png|600px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Begin by inspecting the PCBs to look for any defects such as cracks or breaks. The holes on the board should be open on both sides. Then inspect and sort out the various parts for the boards.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step1.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the five 0.1uF (100nF) capacitors C1-C5. The capacitors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step2.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two 27K Ohm resistors (-, -, -, gold) R1,R2 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step3.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two 1K Ohm resistors (-, -, -, gold) R3,R4 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step4.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the one 220 Ohm resistors (-, -, -, gold) R5 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step5.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the one 120 Ohm resistor (-, -, -, gold) R6 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step6.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the twenty-four 470 Ohm resistors (-, -, -, gold) R7,R9,R12,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23,R25,R27,R29,R30,R32,R34,R36,R38,R40,R42,R44,R46,R48,R50,R52,R54 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step7.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the twenty-seven 10K Ohm resistors (brown, black, orange, gold) R8,R10,R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R28,R30,R31,R33,R35,R37,R39,R41,R43,R45,R47,R49,R51,R53,R55,R56,R57 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step8.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> Install the two XXX Ohm resistors (-, -, -, gold) R58,R59 The resistors are not polarized and can be mounted either way.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step9.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install zener diode D1 (1N5229B). The diode must be installed correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the PCB silkscreen (to the left). <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step10.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install zener diode D2 (1N5239B). The diode must be installed correctly. The diode should have a black stripe on the orange/red body. Make sure that this stripe lines up with the stripe on the PCB silkscreen (to the left). <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step11.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 8-pin IC sockets for IC4,IC5. Install with the notch to the top. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step12.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install three 14-pin IC sockets for IC1,IC2,IC3. Install with the notch to the right.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step13.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - (OPTIONAL!! Not needed for the PIC16F1825) Install the clock oscillator OSC1. The oscillator must be installed in the correct orientation. The oscillator has three rounded corners and one squared corner, make sure that the squared corner is positioned to match the PCB <br />
silkscreen (upper left corner).<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two green LED LED2,LED3. The LEDs are polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step15.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one red LED LED1. The LED is polarized and must be installed correctly. The short lead is the cathode and must be placed in the square solder pad.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step16.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 2-pin vertical headers JP1,JP2. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step17.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one dual row 3-pin vertical header JP3. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step18.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one 3-pin vertical header JP4. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step19.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install one 5-pin vertical header JP5. '''Install the short end through the board.''' These headers have no polarity to worry about. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step20.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install eight terminal blocks sets for RGB outputs. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step21.jpg|300px]]<br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two 47uF capacitors C6,C7. This capacitor is polarized and must be installed correctly. The capacitor should have a silver/grey stripe on the body to indicate which lead is negative. The positive lead of the capacitor will be the longer lead. Make sure that the positive lead is placed in the pad with the +.<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step22.jpg|300px]] <br />
#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install two large terminal blocks for the inputs. Install with the openings for the wires facing off the edge of the board.#<span style="font-size:21px">□</span> - Install ten RJ45 modular jacks J1,J2. Due to minor variations in manufacturing, some RJ45 jacks are a tighter fit than others. Care should be taken to ensure that the pins are aligned first before applying too much pressure to seat the locking lugs through the board. <br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step23.jpg|300px]]<br />
Congratulations! That completes the construction of the Ren24DC!<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step24.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step25.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step26.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step27.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step28.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step29.jpg|300px]]<br />
#:[[File:Ren24DC-Step30-Final.jpg|300px]]<br />
==Jumpers==<br />
<br />
====JP1 - DMX Termination====<br />
Install shunt to terminate DMX input<br />
====JP2 - RS232 Mode====<br />
Install shunt for RS232 input<br />
====JP3 - Data Mode====<br />
Normal Operation Jumper Pins 1/2 on both rows<br/><br />
Thru Operation Jumper Pins 2/3 on both rows<br/><br />
====JP4 - Power Jumper====<br />
This jumper is used if you are supplying either a well regulated +5v or unregulated +7-24v. If you apply +5vdc to the terminal block, you should put the jumper on the "EXT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v externally). If you apply +7-24vdc, you should put the jumper on the "INT" setting (indicating you are getting 5v internally via the 5v regulator).<br />
<br />
You '''MUST''' ensure you have this jumper set correctly if you are using voltages greater than 5v as it may (and probably will) cause permanent damage to some components on the board.<br />
====JP5 - Wireless Header====<br />
Install shunt on pins 4/5 for normal operation.<br/><br />
Pin 1 - +5V<br/><br />
Pin 2 - No Connection<br/><br />
Pin 3 - GND<br/><br />
Pin 4 - Data From RS485<br/><br />
Pin 5 - Data To PIC<br/><br />
<br />
==Powering the Ren24DC==<br />
<br />
==Initial Testing==<br />
<br />
==TroubleShooting==<br />
So - you've built your new Ren24DC, connected it up to your computer and tried a quick sequence and nothing happens! There are several checks to perform in order:<br />
<br />
===Visual Inspection===<br />
The very first step involves a close visual inspection of the board. Double check that you have the correct component in the correct location and in the correct orientation. Look at every single solder connection and if some are not shiny or look suspect - reflow them to be sure.<br />
===Power===<br />
Measure the voltage supplied to the Ren24DC and ensure it's either +5vdc or +7-24vdc and ensure the power jumper is set correctly. Measure the voltage with the supply plugged in and connected to the Ren24DC to ensure it's not shorting out. If the voltage is correct then you know the input level is correct.<br />
<br />
Remove any/all socketed chips from the board before proceeding.<br />
<br />
==FAQ==<br />
'''TBD'''<br />
----<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIYC Index]]<br />
[[Category:DMX]]<br />
[[Category:Renard]]<br />
[[Category:DIYC Controllers]]</div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Ren24DC-Step30-Final.jpg&diff=11510File:Ren24DC-Step30-Final.jpg2014-03-22T19:43:51Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Ren24DC-Step29.jpg&diff=11509File:Ren24DC-Step29.jpg2014-03-22T19:43:39Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Ren24DC-Step28.jpg&diff=11508File:Ren24DC-Step28.jpg2014-03-22T19:43:26Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Ren24DC-Step27.jpg&diff=11507File:Ren24DC-Step27.jpg2014-03-22T19:43:13Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Ren24DC-Step26.jpg&diff=11506File:Ren24DC-Step26.jpg2014-03-22T19:43:01Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Ren24DC-Step25.jpg&diff=11505File:Ren24DC-Step25.jpg2014-03-22T19:42:49Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Ren24DC-Step24.jpg&diff=11504File:Ren24DC-Step24.jpg2014-03-22T19:42:34Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Ren24DC-Step23.jpg&diff=11503File:Ren24DC-Step23.jpg2014-03-22T19:42:19Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Ren24DC-Step22.jpg&diff=11502File:Ren24DC-Step22.jpg2014-03-22T19:42:10Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Ren24DC-Step21.jpg&diff=11501File:Ren24DC-Step21.jpg2014-03-22T19:42:00Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Ren24DC-Step20.jpg&diff=11500File:Ren24DC-Step20.jpg2014-03-22T19:41:50Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovelyhttp://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Ren24DC-Step19.jpg&diff=11499File:Ren24DC-Step19.jpg2014-03-22T19:41:40Z<p>Dlovely: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Dlovely