powering the 595

Mudsculpter

Mudsculpter

Supporting Member
Would a left over cellphone charger cord work for supplying the necessary 5v power?

If so, what is the maximum voltage that can be run through a fully populated 595 board (w/LEDs) without ruining it.

Should I be concerned with the amp rating of the 5v charger?

If a higher than 5v charger can be used, what volt/amp combo is desirable?

And while i'm asking questions,...What is the migratory pattern of a coconut-laden swallow if said bird grips the husk slightly askew?
 
Cellphone chargers are not always the best choice for powering a 595, since their labels are sometimes misleading. Some Nokia chargers that I own, for example, put out an unregulated, unfiltered DC. Even though labelled 3.7V @ 350 mA, they would never be suitable for powering any sort of electronics unless that electronics had a suitable large filter cap and regulator on it (which the 595 boards do not).

YMMV, and chargers will vary as well.

Phil
 
No. First, it is very possible that some phone chargers will work. My experience is confined to exactly one model of Nokia charger.

It also depends on on your definition of inexpensive. For example, Radio Shack p/n 273-029 is a bit expensive by my definition, but it would work to power one 595 board (depending on which SSRs you are using). Likewise, 273-1760 would also work (even pricier, but in a pinch...).

There are also open-frame power supplies available over the internet and possibly through local surplus shops. For example, mouser 552-PSA-15LN3-050-R is good for three 595 boards (3A), and costs $20.

Another choice, if you have an appropriate spare transformer laying around (or find one in a surplus store), is to add some diodes, a cap or two and a regulator to provide +5V.

You have lots of choices for inexpensive power supplies.

--

Phil
 
P. Short said:
Another choice, if you have an appropriate spare transformer laying around (or find one in a surplus store), is to add some diodes, a cap or two and a regulator to provide +5V.

Phil
Click to expand...

hmmm, sounds like a cool project. Would a schematic be possible? I would like to draw up a pcb and maybe etch it out.

8)
 
Since I have ulterior motives (p/s for my pixels as well), I'm thinking about it. The only real question is about specs...how many 595 controllers should it power? I'm figuring that each 595 controller requires about 1A with the LEDs and using the MOC3023-based optos.

--

Phil
 
Right now I'm shooting for a board that can provide either 1A or 3A, depending on which parts are installed and how much heat-sinking is used. Right now I'm also shooting for an adjustable supply, to deal with those 595 systems that require a lower voltage (and for the 13V or so that I'd like to use with my pixel system).

--

Phil
 
I'm only looking for a specific purpose 5v,1A PS that I can place in the box that houses the 595 that is 100ft + away from the computer. I am getting unreliable results with my 5v power pass cables at that distance running both ZC signal and +5v.
 
What is the ZC for? Are you looking to use it to power a Renard as well?

In any case, I'm mostly responding to Wayne's comment. Any board that I work on with him should be somewhat flexible.

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Phil
 
I'm using the ren-c to dim the 595. It(ren-c) leaches power from the 595. All I need to do is remotely supply the 595 with +5v at the controller and I'm in business but I lack the knowledge to pick what capacitors,diodes and whatnot to regulate voltages and step down to +5v. I have a couple of Radio Shack 273-1365A's to play with or I can return them for something different if need be.
 
I think at least 3A should be available. Would save money, I think, and a lot of folks have more than one 595. It then could operate a couple of Ren64's with PWM firmware.


8)
 
Those RS parts aren't going to be good for powering a 595 board, unless you have removed the LEDs. I've forgotten what current the LEDs are being driven with, but the likely current drawn by the board with all 64 channels on is going to be somewhere between 2/3A and 1A.

--

Phil
 
P. Short said:
Those RS parts aren't going to be good for powering a 595 board, unless you have removed the LEDs. I've forgotten what current the LEDs are being driven with, but the likely current drawn by the board with all 64 channels on is going to be somewhere between 2/3A and 1A.

--

Phil
Click to expand...

With all 65 leds populated and 64 optos the current draw is slightly over 800ma.
 
FWIW, here is a potential schematic for a small power supply. It shows LM217 as the regulator, which is good for 1-1.5A, but there are other pin-compatible parts that are good for up to 3A (although they are not good for sub-zero temperatures). All of these parts need fair to good heatsinks on the regulator, so it should be placed appropriately.

Since nobody seems particularly interested in this board, it might be best to let it and germinate. The location of this topic is not particularly good, though, and maybe people will find it in time.

--

Phil
 

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I think we need not worry about pin compatable regulators, and find a part for 3A operation and cold temps. This makes it more versatile. Although an extra set of pads could be placed for the smaller regulator, but then things could get confusing.
 
So far I haven't found any parts (regardless of compatibility or pinout) that are good for 3A operation and sub-zero temperatures in the mouser catalog.

Right now I'm looking for other circuits that use a boost transistor in conjunction with a lower-current regulator that is good for the low temps. Simplicity is lost in the process, however.

Another possibility is to simply use 3 of the 1A parts, each supporting one power output cable (sharing transformer, diodes, and caps, however). That isn't very helpful in my application, though.

--

Phil
 
P. Short said:
FWIW, here is a potential schematic for a small power supply. It shows LM217 as the regulator, which is good for 1-1.5A, but there are other pin-compatible parts that are good for up to 3A (although they are not good for sub-zero temperatures). All of these parts need fair to good heatsinks on the regulator, so it should be placed appropriately.

Since nobody seems particularly interested in this board, it might be best to let it and germinate. The location of this topic is not particularly good, though, and maybe people will find it in time.
Click to expand...

It is good for my use,... which is this thread's intended target,...and since I'm the nobody that is interested,... thanks.
 
Don't take comment personally. Two people interested in the board usually doesn't make it worthwhile doing a coop board, in my opinion. Anyway, there should also be a 1N4002 diode across the input and output of the regulator, cathode to the left.

--

Phil
 

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