Pixel string not lighting up at all

J

jharding

New member
Hoping I can get some help here. I bought two 100 pixel strings from Wallys Lights along with a 12V power supply and the pixel tester mini controller. I wanted to test my lights before mounting to j-channel and then to the house. Buying a controller later, but wanted to get the lights mounted.

I connected both strings to the tester (no instructions so as long as they lit up I was good?) and they both cycled green. Mounted both strings to the j-channel on my bench and retested and the one string still cycled green but the other did not light now. The first pixel flickers green and then goes out. No other lights are lit.

When I put the tester back on the other string, it cycled red lights but still worked (not sure if that means anything status related or I just hit a button)

Anyway, I opened a ticket with Wally's but wanted to start troubleshooting while they get back to me. No damage to the string or X-Connect pigtail that I can see
 
The first pixel flickering has a few possibilities:
The V- connection between the tester and the pixel is not good
The first pixel is not good
Gets worse from there.
 
So let's get some more information:

1) When you connect the strings individually to the tester (one at a time), do they work? Rather than just say they "cycled green" try all the different modes and ensure it's working properly.

2) Assuming both strings work, now try connecting them together. Please describe exactly what happens, on both strings.

200 pixels is a stretch without power injection/balancing but I wouldn't expect it to just drop out like that.
 
1.) the one string connected individually works correctly through all 100 pixels all modes on the tester. The other , connected indivually in the same way to the same tester, does not work at all even cycling through modes.

2.) I tried connecting the non-working string to the working string at the end and it still didnt light. Same issue with first node flickering
 
OK, sounds like a data issue with that string. Since you said it once worked, you may have broken a wire or something when putting it in the channel?
 
That's what I was thinking as well, although I made sure to not put tension on the wires when installing. I also thought they were supposed to be durable.

I am waiting to hear back from Wally's on if they will replace, but I also need to cut some of the strings to fill out my track. To test, should I first remove the connector and see if the first node is good? Or just remove the connector and first node and start with the 2nd?
 
1pet2_9 said:
You're waiting to hear back from Wally's? If you splice the string, then that string is yours.
Click to expand...
I understand that if I cut into it, there wont be a return. I need cut strings anyway, and wally's hasn't responded yet, so if the rest of the pixels are good, I'll just part that string out
 
If the first pixel is bad, just cut it out and move on. May not be a return if you damaged the first pixel either. Being able to make splices is part of this hobby, the better you get at it the better off you will be. Don't plug in or connect pixels to controller with the controller on. Pixels have gotten better these days but it's just a good habit, at least for me anyway. I've fried a few first pixels, especially early. May not have anything to do with what you have done either. That's what it sounds like to me, a bad first pixel.
 
If I get a string with a bad pixel, I'll find the bad one but then that string becomes a donor for other strings. It's still the cheapest way to get pixels.

Also, I've learned, it's better and quicker to just skip a bad pixel and just join the string right there. It's only one joint and point of failure instead of two. Add the pixel(s) to the end, still one joint.
 
I will give this much: if the first pixel goes bad, you get a pigtail out of it. And then you connect that to another string where you lost the tail of I; not the first of it. Woo hoo, a new power injection point.
 
other things to check/try.
1. see if the connectors are on the correct ends of the string (ie input connector is wired to the end of the string)
2. see if wires (v+ data gnd) are not mis-wired
3. ignore the tester and connect string normally to your controller to rule out the tester
 
I cut off the first pixel and pigtail and am using that string as ends for my other runs that are over 100 pixels. Connected it up and the rest of the string worked. I cut off the pigtail and I'll see if that works on another donor string to finish up my first floor run.
 
I'm trying to figure out the best place for mounting my controller on a permanent installation. I haven't picked one out yet and am still a little confused about how to access it. I am thinking it could go 1.) in the attic, but would have to cut a hole, 2.) underneath the overhang of the first floor 3. ) next to the front door on the side wall or 4.) in the garage (needing a couple holes to run the wires)

Its about 19 ft to get from the top string connections to the lowest point where I would consider mounting the controller. I am taking into account having to access the controller box while setting it up. Looking at Kulp or Falcon controllers and not sure if WiFi is a viable option.

I can always move it later, just want to get my 4 connection points hooked up with extensions where it makes the most sense.


House_Front_Wiring.jpg
 
My master controller is in the garage. I don't have to weatherproof it, and that makes routine updates/maintenance way easier. The wires route under a gasket out the corner of the garage door.
 
My friend uses Falcon F16v3s with the additional 4 differential receivers (4 outputs each) and F48s with 12 differential receivers (4 outputs each). I don't know about the Kulp controllers, so I can't comment.

With the Falcons, you could keep your controller in the garage if you wanted and then run CAT cables to each of the differential receivers. For example, placing a receiver at your location #1 and location #2.

Additional things that are useful are that the Falcons have a tiny, but functional display, can have its IP configured or verified via this display, and has built in test lighting patterns.
 
I have 4 F16s in the show. No way would I want all of those cables coming out of the house. All of my controllers are near the props. Waterproofing has not been an issue. Mouse and squirl proofing are much bigger topics for me. My F16s are mounted in cg1500 cases with the holes open on the bottom. I hang the boxes against trees or fence stakes. The bottom of the box get a bit wet but never the controller. Mouse urine kills the controllers. This year I have been spraying a diluted mint oil into the cg1500 boxes. Lets hope that help keep the critters away.
 
I'd go with the attic, if you have reasonable access there. You shouldn't have to regularly access it (you can push firmware, etc remotely) but if something fails you'll want access to it. I also personally would want a hardwired outlet near the controller to directly plug into, I wouldn't be comfortable with semi-permanent extension cords ran through the attic.

This is assuming that controller will run your permanent lights and ONLY your permanent lights. If you want to tap it for other seasonal things then you'll want it mounted outside somewhere.
 
I am hoping to use the pixel ports for the 4 permanent strings I have installed (with extensions) and possibly some seasonal props/window outlines. I've heard 15-20 ft max from controller to first pixel. I think I would be fine with any of my locations, they are within 20 ft of the farthest string input.

I could do differentials in those locations, but I'm still running CAT from the main controller. I might just put it in location #2 as a temporary spot until I understand better how the controller works. Power would be an issue in location 2, but there are pluses and minuses for each.
 
> 15-20 ft max from controller to first pixel.

In my experience you can get a little further than that. Worst case you can use an f-amp (or more) middle of the run and go considerably further.
 
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