Spec for Ray Wu or Xconnect connectors

**Razzle69** · 05-22-2023, 07:24 AM

Is there a spec for either Ray Wu style or Xconnect style connectors? one where I could order them from, say, digikey or mouser? I can find pigtails on Amazon and AliExpress but none have the spec. Are these proprietary? It would seem to make more sense to buy connectors and cable in bulk and roll your own lengths. Having to splice or desolder pigtails seems a waste of time and money.

**orlandoal** · 05-22-2023, 12:33 PM

The folowing link shows you some of the specs for various types of pigtails, which might help https://www.wiredwatts.com/learn-connectors

Personally, I chose a type (Ray-Wu) and have stuck with that, if I buy pixels that come without the Ray-Wu or xConnect ends I have plenty of spare Ray pigtails to solder on to the new pixels. I used my old A/C lights mains extension cords to cut down to make pixel extension cords of varying lengths and soldered the pigtails at either end. It is time consuming, however you can make custom length cords if you require them.

If you shop around, you can possibly/probably purchase ready made extension cords cheaper than you could probably make them yourself, if you were buying the componant parts.

Hope that helps

**TomL8345** · 05-22-2023, 03:42 PM

Personally, I use Waterproof Automotive Connectors when I am building cables. I can get them from many different sources, they all fit together, come in many different pin counts, and I can disconnect them one handed wearing gloves(which is great at teardown).

**Razzle69** · 05-22-2023, 06:01 PM

I am just getting started. I have a bunch of pixel strings with no connectors and I have some Floodlights coming from Ray Wu that have his connectors on them. I am just looking to standardize on something that I know I can get and won't break the bank. Even theatrical lighting connectors (which are pretty specific and expensive) have a spec. NEMA and/or ANSI. I may go with the auto connectors since you can get them bare and in bulk. The thought of attaching pigtails with butt connectors offends my sensibilities ;-). I would end up desoldering the Ray Wu pigtails to get clean cables. It's a personal hangup of mine.

**MikeKrebs** · 05-23-2023, 12:48 AM

I don't think there is a real spec but they are a standard (although DIYLedExpress changed their connector a few years ago). The other problem that noone said but orlandoal pointed to is that each of them is "propietary" in the sense that they don't work with each other. The problem for real DIY cables using Ray or xConnect or any of the others is that there is no waterproof style DIY connector available. All of those connectors are molded with the cables. There just isn't a DIY connector that works with them. So the best you can do is pigtails and bulk cable.

The automotive style connectors do serve the DIY part of cabling pretty well. And of course there are other ways to slay the cable problem. Several people swear using cat 5/6 work for them (I have some DMX props wired that way). Some people will say that the JST connectors work for them. Some people will go the molex route. Landscape lighting products are another.

**digitydogs** · 05-23-2023, 11:22 AM

I've always wondered why no one else seems to be using the fully insulated style of spade connectors.

Like these - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z7LTNR5...roduct_details

Good solid connections, water tight (add a drop of hot glue or silicone in the wire end after crimping and they are basically waterproof), no soldering, easy to disconnect at the end of the season, and can handle up to 415V and a decent amperage as well.

Red - 19A
Blue - 27A
Yellow - 48A

Oh and they are fairly cheap to boot, especially if you order them direct from china!

**Keith R** · 05-23-2023, 11:47 AM

Originally Posted by digitydogs

I've always wondered why no one else seems to be using the fully insulated style of spade connectors.

Like these - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z7LTNR5...roduct_details

Good solid connections, water tight (add a drop of hot glue or silicone in the wire end after crimping and they are basically waterproof), no soldering, easy to disconnect at the end of the season, and can handle up to 415V and a decent amperage as well.

Red - 19A
Blue - 27A
Yellow - 48A

Oh and they are fairly cheap to boot, especially if you order them direct from china!

I think you would be surprised that no matter how well you waterproof them, with temperature changes (especially in the South), water ingress will always be a problem. I never had any luck with the automotive connectors, either. Too difficult to put together and they always leaked. Some people, though, have had good luck with them.
Molded connectors is the best way to go, hands down. It is easier to waterproof a connection, than it is a connector. I bought a lifetime supply of short pigtails from DIYLedExpress when they were still in stock, and some manufacturers still offer them as a option for their pixels.
Wired Watts (Ken MacMaster) also offers pigtails with several popular ends (Ray Wu, DIYLED, and XConnect) and has some of the best Customer Service around.
My recommendation would be to chose one style (XConnect is the most popular) and stick with it. You will always need more of the end that comes out of the controller and unless you are using Cat5 for long runs, get plenty of 5 and 10 foot extensions. I use a crate full in my show.
CorrosionX is the best product I have found for waterproofing. Better than dielectric grease in my opinion.
Good Luck!

**Razzle69** · 05-25-2023, 06:32 AM

Waterproofing is a good point for me to consider. I live north of Dallas TX. At holloween and Christmas you have two types of weather, beautiful and torrential rain. With the expansive clay soil I have, torrential rain means my yard is covered in an inch of water for days. So any cables I have on the ground could be under water for days. I probably should plan to elevate all junction points off the ground and use landscape type cable for runs. Thanks for the advice.