PEI and Ender 3 Pro ... almost there .

[angus40]

A couple days printing with PEI and I’m finding a couple things that bother me. First, when petg sticks it sticks for good. So well that it takes little pieces of the PEI sheet with it when it comes free. I’ve tried letting it cool normally. In this case it bonds hard to the sheet and is really difficult to get it to release. For small detailed parts, this is suicide. I’ve waited just a few minutes and used the flex of the sheet to get it to come loose. This has been the best bet so Far. I’ve tried placing the entire sheet and part in the freezer for a few minutes. This is really the only way I can get small detailed parts to release. But I have to let it get pretty cold then quickly roll the sheet to get a corner to come loose, then get a scraper under the part. I can see each part taking tiny patches of the surface of the bed after each print that’s difficult to release. Last night I broke a key piece off a 13 hour print. As much as it pained my OCD, I caved and superglued it back. I’ve picked it up and put it in the recycle then returned it to it’s place on the lighthouse about 20 times. I know I’ll eventually reprint. I can’t help myself. The last thing I’ve tried that works best but is messy as all get out. Elmers purple glue stick. I coat the surface of the sheet in the areas I believe it will print. After the print the part slips right off, and I clean the bed with IPA. It sticks just fine during the print with the purple glue. So this is what I’ve been doing with small delicate parts as they don’t get damaged in the release. Large parts like the body of the lighthouse weren’t a problem at all. After the print ended it was anywhere from a half hour to several hours before I lifted them and they came right off. If I leave smaller things setting for say an hour or two... they seem to hard bond to the PEI sheet. It’s frustrating as heck, but the workarounds are worth it as I haven’t lost a single print since switching from the stock bed. The PEI is much better than the bed that came with the printer, but it’s not the be all end all. I’m taking the advice of others and I’ll try the glass next. But it’ll be a while. I’m in the dog house for all the spending. I have the BLTouch in hand. The SKR mini e3 V2.0 is coming Thursday I think. And there are 15 rolls of filament on the shelf waiting to be turned into something fun.

I’m impressed with the E5P. I’d buy a second. The E3P not so much, even though it’s better with the PEI sheet.

Jeff

I am thinking that your nozzle is way too close to the bed surface while you are printing , too hot or both.
I use a sheet of printer paper to set the bed level on each corner the clean nozzle just barely skims the paper.
I do this bed level twice to make certain it is perfect .
I home the print head between the 2 tests .
This is basically how I set endmills on my CNC also .

[Jeff Millard]

Sheet is a paper width from the bed. I wondered if that was the case, so I dialed it back a bit. Then the filament wouldn’t stick at all at the beginning of the print. It just drags it around and makes a gooey mess. I’ll try lowering the temp. I’m printing at 240 with the bed at 70, so I’ll try lowering the temp to 230 and 220. Should I also try lowering the bed temp?

Jeff

[Jeff Millard]

I’ve never used those sheets I went straight from magnet to mirrors and staying


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a dozen of those mirrors. I also have glass cutters coming from Amazon Sunday, so I’ll be trying that soon. If I can dial the PEI in for larger prints, and small delicate stuff on glass I’ll be happy.

Jeff

[Jeff Millard]

I have a Prusa Mk3S with a texture spring steel sheet bed. My PETG prints just pop off with a little bit a flex of the spring steel sheet.

I’m hoping Richard’s suggestion about temps could be the problem I’m having. What temperature do you print at on the hot end and the bed?

Jeff

[Jeff Millard]

Ender 3 pro
Ender 5 pro


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep.

Jeff

[angus40]

Sheet is a paper width from the bed. I wondered if that was the case, so I dialed it back a bit. Then the filament wouldn’t stick at all at the beginning of the print. It just drags it around and makes a gooey mess. I’ll try lowering the temp. I’m printing at 240 with the bed at 70, so I’ll try lowering the temp to 230 and 220. Should I also try lowering the bed temp?

Jeff

215 -230 for PTEG bed 60-70
If your dragging filament re adjust the bed level with the nozzle 1" in from the corners starting from the home corner.
move the sheet of paper back and forth several dozen times at each corner while easing on the adjustment wheel.
You should just feel a ever so slight rub of the nozzle on the paper . You will find that all & most important sweet spot.
This is more important than heat atm. Get this tweaked perfect then move to heat .

I printed a 31hr PETG part on this PEI bed with a.04 nozzel. The PETG was blk Duramic rating 240 +- 10 My settings were 230/70
The Xlc9 ERYone white PTEG with .08 nozzle . My settings 215/70

Master the leveling first !

[Jeff Millard]

OK. I’m printing the base to the lighthouse right now at 220 and 70. We’ll find out how it went in... about 13 hours. ;-)
So far it looks good.

Jeff

[DrNeutron]

General rule when printing with PETG is standard piece of A4 folded in half (twice the thickness), for PLA it is single.
PETG doesn't need to be squished like PLA, but instead laid down.
Did you get the springsteel magnetic bed with PEI from energetic?

[Jeff Millard]

Yes

[steve123]

I’m hoping Richard’s suggestion about temps could be the problem I’m having. What temperature do you print at on the hot end and the bed?

Jeff

I print PETG at 230 with the bed at 85 for first layer and 90 thereafter. PETG likes a good warm bed.