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Thread: How should I replace a triac?

  1. #1
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    Question How should I replace a triac?

    As you can read in my original post, I ran into a problem with my Renard SS24 board, ports 1&2 were stuck on. They would go to a specific dimming level, but never responded to the off signal. I also had another issue that I found last year and sort of forgot about, which was that port #10 would randomly blink on a few of my sequences. I followed the troubleshooting suggestions and it appears my Triacs are bad and need to be replaced. Now I bought these boards built, so I don't have a ton of soldering experience, but I'm happy to give it a go. Looking up the Renard SS24 BOM list I see that the Triac part is listed as 511-BTA06-600CW, but looking at my board I see that my part is different. Here's a picture:
    20200111_112609.jpg. I see on the parts substitution page it says my part is EOL, but is it okay to mix different Triac types? Can I install a 511-BTA06-600CW part into my board with a bunch of other 700T parts? Mouser sells a part #BTA04-700TRG. Is that better than the 600CW part? It wasn't listed on the Renard substitution page.

    Also check out the back of my board:

    20200111_113621.jpg

    It looks like one of the pins is wired to another using just solder. Could this be part of my problem? This board ran fine for 2 years before this last one, so I doubt this ugly connection is a part of my problem, but I thought I'd ask what is going on here.

    And other suggestions on how to desolder or replace this triac would be appreciated

  2. #2
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    Default Re: How should I replace a triac?

    Yes, it is O.K. to use different triacs on the same board. The jumper may be due to a lifted (ruined) trace from a previous repair. It probably should be reinstalled once the Triacs are replaced. The easiest way to replace a Triac is to cut the legs on the bad one with a pair of cutters (dikes) and then heat the remaining pins one at a time, and ithey should drop out. If not, you can gently bounce the board on something soft while heating the pin, or if you left enough, a pair of needle nose on the end and heat and pull out.
    Last edited by rstehle; 01-12-2020 at 12:35 AM.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: How should I replace a triac?

    doing this from my phone, so I will chime in on this tomorrow.
    James Family Christmas - 1600 channels of SS Renard channels
    Website - http://jamesfamilychristmas.com/ <<broken
    Facebook - James Family Christmas


  4. #4
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    Default Re: How should I replace a triac?

    With a tri-again-ac?

    Sorry, couldn’t resist the pun. I got a hot air station just for this sort of operation because I can’t remove soldered components very well with an iron.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: How should I replace a triac?

    Okay, the picture you posted, is that the channel that is giving you trouble? If so, something bad happened there either when the triac went out, or whoever did the repair, the board is burnt, and obviously, the traces are severely damaged and have been repaired with wire. Now, that is something can be done, but extra care must be taken when doing so, and with seeing the board, I cannot really say. So, if it is, you can replace the triac, but MAKE SURE you follow the schematic on the circuit. It is linked below. You can just leave it, and not use the channel as well.
    As for the channel that randomly blinks, it is a triac issue as well. Since you have the 700T triacs in your board that means it is an older controller, those triacs have issues with LED light strings. Not really and issue as there are ways to fix it. "Snubbers" was one way. You could replace the triac, but there are 23 others that could do the exact same thing. so the snubber idea would be your best bet. I made a video about this stuff when I was researching for a new triac that would fix the issue, you can watch it, linked below. You can use the
    511-BTA06-600CW but I would use the 511-BTA06-600BW as it is better than the CW.

    SS24 Schematic > http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wik..._Schematic.pdf
    Flicker Video > http://doityourselfchristmas.com/for...SS-controllers
    Snubbers > http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wik...title=Snubbers

    Hope this helps.
    James Family Christmas - 1600 channels of SS Renard channels
    Website - http://jamesfamilychristmas.com/ <<broken
    Facebook - James Family Christmas


  6. #6
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    Default Re: How should I replace a triac?

    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne J View Post
    Okay, the picture you posted, is that the channel that is giving you trouble? If so, something bad happened there either when the triac went out, or whoever did the repair, the board is burnt, and obviously, the traces are severely damaged and have been repaired with wire. Now, that is something can be done, but extra care must be taken when doing so, and with seeing the board, I cannot really say. So, if it is, you can replace the triac, but MAKE SURE you follow the schematic on the circuit. It is linked below. You can just leave it, and not use the channel as well.
    As for the channel that randomly blinks, it is a triac issue as well. Since you have the 700T triacs in your board that means it is an older controller, those triacs have issues with LED light strings. Not really and issue as there are ways to fix it. "Snubbers" was one way. You could replace the triac, but there are 23 others that could do the exact same thing. so the snubber idea would be your best bet. I made a video about this stuff when I was researching for a new triac that would fix the issue, you can watch it, linked below. You can use the
    511-BTA06-600CW but I would use the 511-BTA06-600BW as it is better than the CW.

    SS24 Schematic > http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wik..._Schematic.pdf
    Flicker Video > http://doityourselfchristmas.com/for...SS-controllers
    Snubbers > http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wik...title=Snubbers

    Hope this helps.
    Thanks for the reply. The light that's flickering is not LED, it's just a plain bulb in a blow mold. I order 7 511-BTA06-600CW's so I can replace a few of these if needed. The strange thing was the light only flickered in one sequence and seemed to work the rest of the time.

    As for the schematic, I tried to make myself clear...I'm not a HW guy, those schematics are just chicken scratches to me. No clue what they say. My plan was to just remove the old parts and replace them with the new parts I bought (511-BTA06-600CW) using the same holes. I was assuming that means I'd also need to replace that wire/fix on the back...as I was surprised to find it. I was just hoping you could tell me what that post is that has the wire add, like is it neutral? I believe I can see follow the schematic enough to see that it's marked G and goes to some 180 resistor.

    -=Steve

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