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  1. #1
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    Default Trying to save a train

    One of the props in our show is an older 10yrs train with lights. It has a small controller that makes the wheels and smoke stack move. Well it stopped working and it looks like this:



    The two wires go to the ac plug, and the three wires go to the prop. Obviously the board is shot, but if we just wanted to make the lights static, anyone have any ideas about which wires we connect where. My thought was two wires connect to hot and the other attaches to the neutral wire. Any ideas would be great.

    Thanks


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  2. #2
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    Default Re: Trying to save a train

    Any idea in the Make/Model in the train? That Might help.
    ~Jason
    [URL]http://www.tooz.us[/URL]

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Trying to save a train

    Don't connect AC voltage to the motor or lights. I'd guess the 4 diodes are a rectifier, especially since you have 3 transistors on there. I would also guess that it does some type of switching on the outputs, possibly with a timing function. Probably one of the 3 output wires is ground and the other two are some value of DC voltage. Does it work if you plug it in? Can you measure the output (likely DC) and figure out if it's a constant or intermittent value? Does the light bulb or motor have watt/voltage markings on it? I would also try cleaning it up with alcohol so you can get a better look at it. A hobby shop might also be useful in helping you figure it out.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Trying to save a train

    More pictures, please:
    the whole train,
    the motor,
    the any brand or model markings,
    the original box (Ha! I make myself laugh).

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Trying to save a train

    Clear pictures of the top of the circuit board, and then of the bottom.

    I see some markings:
    • the full-wave bridge 4 x 1N4004 (1000v 1A diodes)
    • K1851D - transistor Q1, but not populated.
    • 2N2007 - MOSFET, likely for motor power control
    • The other transistors, Q3 & Q4 are unknown. We'd have to read any markings on those themselves.
    • I see a trim cap(?) or trim resistor. Did the circuit allow you to adjust the motor speed?
    • A 33u 40v elecrolytic cap.
    • A 100K resistor. [Brown-Black-Yellow]
    • A ceramic decoupling cap?


    Oh, I see that there's a little daughterboard with a black blob: likely the timing and control IC (integrated circuit).

    I'm guessing the bridge diodes and larger cap form a poor man's power supply for the IC (thru 10K resistor?) and to drive the transistors/mosfet, and hence the DC motor. The mosfet clearly controls the motor(s), but why are there two transistors for the lights?

    I'm pretty sure we can figure out your circuit and create a new one, or find a suitable replacement. We just need more information.

    Be careful when you try to clean it up - the markings and any copper traces (on the bottom) will be important.

    Jimboha
    Last edited by jimboha; 01-11-2019 at 02:29 AM. Reason: Added more info. Corrected resistor value.
    Springville, Utah

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Trying to save a train

    Quote Originally Posted by jimboha View Post
    Clear pictures of the top of the circuit board, and then of the bottom.

    I see some markings:
    • the full-wave bridge 4 x 1N4004 (1000v 1A diodes)
    • K1851D - transistor Q1, but not populated.
    • 2N2007 - MOSFET, likely for motor power control
    • The other transistors, Q3 & Q4 are unknown. We'd have to read any markings on those themselves.
    • I see a trim cap(?) or trim resistor. Did the circuit allow you to adjust the motor speed?
    • A 33u F40v elecrolytic cap.
    • A 10K resistor.
    • A ceramic decoupling cap?


    Oh, I see that there's a little daughterboard with a black blob: likely the timing and control IC (integrated circuit).

    I'm guessing the bridge diodes and larger cap form a poor man's power supply for the IC (thru 10K resistor?) and to drive the transistors/mosfet, and hence the DC motor. The mosfet clearly controls the motor(s), but why are there two transistors for the lights?

    I'm pretty sure we can figure out your circuit and create a new one, or find a suitable replacement. We just need more information.

    Be careful when you try to clean it up - the markings and any copper traces (on the bottom) will be important.

    Jimboha
    Nice sleuthing!
    ~Jason
    [URL]http://www.tooz.us[/URL]

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Trying to save a train

    Question:
    There are currently three wires coming out. But I see an empty fourth connector by Q3. Did a wire come loose and fall off completely there? If so, this would explain Q3 & Q4. Q3 would have controlled the thing on the missing wire.

    I'm not talking about the unpopulated hole between Q2 and Q1. I suspect there was option to control a third item - driven by the omitted K1851 transistor.

    How many and what type lights?

    Jimboha
    Last edited by jimboha; 01-10-2019 at 04:57 PM.
    Springville, Utah

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Trying to save a train

    Hmm. The 2007 04 MIGHT be a date of manufacture, and NOT transistor designation. I see no 2N in front... And you did say it's about 10 years old.

    Specifically where does each of those 3 wires go?

    Jimboha
    Springville, Utah

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Trying to save a train

    Wow thanks so some clarification as I realized I wasn’t giving enough info...

    This is a light prop not a real train here is the information I have on it:

    Model number on the box is 64016. The prop is a Home Accents item made for Home Depot. It was made in China and distributed by Home Depot USA out of Atlanta, GA.

    UL listed 120 volts. 300 lights; 2.5 volts, low watts (requires replacement bulbs for HD light set)


    The control box had a trim pot that controlled if the lights were solid or if the lights blinked to give the effect of motion.

    The 3 wires go toward the lights.

    I am trying to get more pics




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  10. #10
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    Default Re: Trying to save a train

    Here are the pics:




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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