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Thread: Soldering Pigtails

  1. #31
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    Default Re: Soldering Pigtails

    I'm with plasma drive on this one. I love that there are choices. You can make your choice and I will make mine.
    Jim Nealand
    Kennesaw, Ga

  2. Likes marx1 liked this post
  3. #32
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    Default Re: Soldering Pigtails

    deleted
    Last edited by rstehle; 11-27-2018 at 01:23 AM.

  4. #33
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    Default Re: Soldering Pigtails

    Quote Originally Posted by mrGrumpy View Post
    For pigtails, here is a few: Cold Solder joints, flexing the joint breaks down the solder, solder corrode first when exposed to the elements, and since the joint isn't mechanically compressed or connected, there is a layer of solder that is the conductor.


    My point is with all the newbies coming into the DIY Lights, and many don't even understand continuity, lap joints should not be promoted. As a DIY hobby, then the added time to do a mechanically twisted (western union like) joint is best.

    It also doesn't matter how many years you have been doing it or your lack of failure; those statement do not make it right. Safety is what makes it right.
    Sounds like fake news to me.........

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  6. #34
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    Default Re: Soldering Pigtails

    Quote Originally Posted by mrGrumpy View Post
    Cold Solder joints
    Using lap joints doesn't cause cold solder joints. Poor soldering technique, not using flux, or using 60/40 solder does.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrGrumpy View Post
    flexing the joint breaks down the solder
    This is a problem with ALL joints. soldered, screw, crimp, even thermal welded ones. It's called metal fatigue. Copper is soft and workable. It's one of the reasons we use it for this kind of wire. That's why most people heat-shrink the joints then do a second cover to help protect them.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrGrumpy View Post
    solder corrode first when exposed to the elements
    So does copper, aluminum, steel, brass, bronze. There is such a product called dual-wall heat shrink or marine grade heat shrink that contains a adhesive. This adhesive acts as a conformal coating protecting the joint from corrosion.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrGrumpy View Post
    since the joint isn't mechanically compressed or connected, there is a layer of solder that is the conductor.
    You do realize the point of solder is to provide a low-resistance ELECTRICAL connection right? It also provides an extremely light-load mechanical connection. We're not hanging props FROM our pigtails alone (Are we guys? If so, come on, it's a electrical wire, not a mechanical support. don't use it as one)


    Most people on here using low voltages, and have some form of circuit protection. As plasmadrive has said, if you're pushing enough wattage though a lap joint to melt the solder, you're going to have other issues before then - such as melting insulation. For the joint to heat up to the 460F required to melt 60/40 it's not going to be a sudden heat and melt failure condition; it will be gradual heating. Anyone who solders pigtails we use know the insulation does not do well with prolonged heat.


    Just because someone doesn't solder joints how YOU like it, where taught doesn't make it wrong or unsafe. If someone wants to use a lap joint (I do! and pigtails I made 7 years ago still work, don't have heating, corrosion issues etc) my demanding newbies adhere to a tradesmen level electrician or electronics engineer is unreasonable, as well as insulting. People come on here to ask for help, not to be belittled for not being at someone else's level.


    A the end of the day Nothing we do past the wall outlet follows any NEC code, so we all take responsibility for our own actions.

    We want to make blinky flashy for friends, family and our community, and this forum should be inviting and welcoming to new people asking questions not people acting like this.

  7. #35
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    Default Re: Soldering Pigtails

    Quote Originally Posted by rstehle View Post
    deleted
    Was I never got shocked by 12V
    Quote Originally Posted by rstehle View Post
    Sounds like fake news to me.........
    rstehle, why do you post these? Neither of your posts here brings any value to the subject, just aggravation.



    Quote Originally Posted by marx1 View Post
    Using lap joints doesn't cause cold solder joints. Poor soldering technique, not using flux, or using 60/40 solder does.
    marx1, why do you pull test out of content then write bashing statements. Please bring value to your posts, not negative intent

    Supporting comment: (I address the first, the others are just as bad)
    Plasmadrive: Mr. Grumpy.. why don't you like this type of joint?
    My Answer: For pigtails, here is a few: Cold Solder joints, flexing the joint breaks down the solder, solder corrode first when exposed to the elements, and since the joint isn't mechanically compressed or connected, there is a layer of solder that is the conductor.

    You use my term of "cold solder joint" and turn it to say I meant lap joints cause cold solder joint......I did not! Where did you see that statement. Cold solder joints is just one reason I do not like lap joints, not a effect of using. And in your attempt to support your bashing, you just confirm my reasoning for not liking lap joints: "Poor soldering technique, not using flux, or using 60/40 solder does."
    In Lights Therapy

  8. #36
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    Default Re: Soldering Pigtails

    I think everyone has enough advice on how to solder and any further bickering will bring no further value. Thread closed.
    Thanks,
    Brian, your friendly site Admin.

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