Source for ESP modules

[ukewarrior]

Wow,
What a PITA.

It's not just Puya with the problem. I recently got 20 ESP Modules on AliExpress and from photo I was pretty sure it didn't
have the Puya Flash...

Model Number: Upgraded version ESP-01 ESP8266 serial WIFI wireless module wireless tranciever
Brand Name: ACELEX
Price: US $1.62 / piece

... when I received the modules I checked and the Flash branding was MK. They programmed OK but after programming would not boot in DHCP mode, in fact there was NO output (text) in the serial output window (was blank). I tried a few of the modules and same result so I ordered Windbond Flash chips from Digikey... DK part number W25Q80DVSNIGCT-ND (cut tape). I received today, changed a few and that fixed the problem... they programed went into DHCP mode I and was able to connect to module from my browser. Looks like this will be resolved at some point but I didn't feel like waiting. So beware of the MK branded Flash chips and for now look for a Flash chip that is proven
.


Attachment 41204

[mrGrumpy]

It's not just Puya with the problem. I recently got 20 ESP Modules on AliExpress and from photo I was pretty sure it didn't
have the Puya Flash...

Model Number: Upgraded version ESP-01 ESP8266 serial WIFI wireless module wireless tranciever
Brand Name: ACELEX
Price: US $1.62 / piece

... when I received the modules I checked and the Flash branding was MK. They programmed OK but after programming would not boot in DHCP mode, in fact there was NO output (text) in the serial output window (was blank). I tried a few of the modules and same result so I ordered Windbond Flash chips from Digikey... DK part number W25Q80DVSNIGCT-ND (cut tape). I received today, changed a few and that fixed the problem... they programed went into DHCP mode I and was able to connect to module from my browser. Looks like this will be resolved at some point but I didn't feel like waiting. So beware of the MK branded Flash chips and for now look for a Flash chip that is proven
.


Attachment 41204

I just had the joy of changing out 10 more of those non puya, no boot flash/memory chips. dirknerkle shared his replacement process of clipping the old chip out, and dealing with a single pin at a time. This keeps from damaging the solder pads. That worked great.....just wish he had a solution for soldering. When I do these SMD components with a soldering iron, I seem to get an onset of shaky-hand until I get the first pin of each chip nailed down.

I tried backing down to v2.0 but didn't help those I receive.

I had failures and water damage ESP's so without a reliable source for replacement ESP's (reasonable priced) I'm looking for something to replace the ESPixelSticks (Renard ESP too) with something we have more control of.....maybe Dan Kulp's pocket Beagle Bone setup. One source software(FPP) and hardware.

[DrNeutron]

I just had the joy of changing out 10 more of those non puya, no boot flash/memory chips. dirknerkle shared his replacement process of clipping the old chip out, and dealing with a single pin at a time. This keeps from damaging the solder pads. That worked great.....just wish he had a solution for soldering. When I do these SMD components with a soldering iron, I seem to get an onset of shaky-hand until I get the first pin of each chip nailed down.

I tried backing down to v2.0 but didn't help those I receive.

I had failures and water damage ESP's so without a reliable source for replacement ESP's (reasonable priced) I'm looking for something to replace the ESPixelSticks (Renard ESP too) with something we have more control of.....maybe Dan Kulp's pocket Beagle Bone setup. One source software(FPP) and hardware.

Have you looked at Jeremy's boards? https://jboards.ecwid.com/ESPixNode-p127558674
Also, I think Uke is working on a similar board that uses a NodeMCU as well.
I am in same boat but haven't had any issues with my ESP-01's as of yet, so not as pressing to find replacements.....

[ukewarrior]

I am not so sure that NodeMCU's are also prone to these issues.
They too have a memory chip.
Maybe the temptation to use crap memory is less with these units?
Only time will tell.

Have you looked at Jeremy's boards? https://jboards.ecwid.com/ESPixNode-p127558674
Also, I think Uke is working on a similar board that uses a NodeMCU as well.
I am in same boat but haven't had any issues with my ESP-01's as of yet, so not as pressing to find replacements.....

[mrGrumpy]

Have you looked at Jeremy's boards? https://jboards.ecwid.com/ESPixNode-p127558674
Also, I think Uke is working on a similar board that uses a NodeMCU as well.
I am in same boat but haven't had any issues with my ESP-01's as of yet, so not as pressing to find replacements.....

Yes, DrNeutron, I have looked at the ESPixNode and like what I see, but we cannot rely on China to maintain its current design....will the PUYA influence lock it out of our use as the ESP-01. Only time will tell.
I will buy a few of these (in the near future) just to have, and maybe use as back-up or spares.
I do have plenty extra/spare ESPixelSticks, Renard ESP and ESPixel POPS to last years, each with tested/programmed spare ESP-01. Just always looking for something better.

[harpster]

I just had the joy of changing out 10 more of those non puya, no boot flash/memory chips. dirknerkle shared his replacement process of clipping the old chip out, and dealing with a single pin at a time. This keeps from damaging the solder pads. That worked great.....just wish he had a solution for soldering. When I do these SMD components with a soldering iron, I seem to get an onset of shaky-hand until I get the first pin of each chip nailed down.

I work with SMD everyday and does help to have the right tools, especially a microscope (needed for the real small stuff). I also changed out 10 flash chips and the PCB quality on these modules seemed pretty decent to me.

On small SOIC packages like this I typically flood one side with solder then while solder is heated gently lift that side off the pads with an with a X-acto knife. Once one side is lifted touch the other side with iron and chip is off. I always use solder-wick to clean the pads and apply solder to one of the outside pads, then using tweezers place the part and when it looks centered heat the pad with solder on it to get it down and then solder the opposite side corner pad, then solder the rest of the pads. Only issue is if you lift before the solder is heated, then you can mess up the pad. But if you lift gently you can feel the give. I guess it's an experience thing but I have good luck with this technique for years.

Using a small needle point tip and thin (0.15 dia.) Rosen core solder really helps. I saw a video of someone replacing one of these and he basically got solder everywhere and needed solder-wic to unsolder all the pins. You should be able to solder one pine at a time with small tip and thin dia solder with no overflow to adjacent pins. But as long as it works after your done, that's the main thing http://doityourselfchristmas.com/for...cons/icon6.png

[mrGrumpy]

Harpster, I do similar to you, except 300 power reading glasses over a 150 power reader = your microscope. Mostly, just the 300 Power.
Heating and lifting with x-acto is what I was doing, but grab a pad in about 1 in 10 - - cutting off and cleaning pad = no pad issues yet.

One trick I should pass along is that I tin the tips of the chip before placing to solder.

[dirknerkle]

Here's the quick way to repair an ESP module.

https://vimeo.com/259227122

[critic2]

Here's the quick way to repair an ESP module.

https://vimeo.com/259227122

I’ve tried that. It works!