Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 15 of 15

Thread: General Layout/design questions

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    176
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: General Layout/design questions

    Quote Originally Posted by MetalXmas View Post
    The house is funny... the garage was the model office.... I only have 2 outlets in there.... smh .... but now the eves..... covered outlet at almost every corner


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    while the f16v3 is plenty to run your show, you could add a child to the opposite side of the house. you could plug a diff rec board directly into the f16v3 without needing a diff expansion board. given your current layout, you would not suffer. by adding a rec board directly to the f16v3 without a diff exp board, you turn the f16v3 into a 12 port controller with 4 remote ports. by adding the diff exp board, you keep the 16 ports and gain 4 remote boards with 4 ports each.

    option 1 = add a power supply to the right hand side of the house and power inject where needed
    option 2 = add a diff rec board and have remote ports.

    note: without knowing your exact node count, 18awg vs 20 awg pixels, and a couple other variables, its hard to say exactly which would work best. as i mentioned earlier, in this hobby there are many variables which allows you more than one way to do things that work.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    15
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: General Layout/design questions

    Okay cool... Iím far enough in the game I know exactly what your taking about ... but right at the stage I need to get the answer to those question lol... I will have to look into the diff expansion boards. I should have a fairly accurate pixel count in the next few days, most of em I known and have in my spread sheet... just a few left to double check. Thatís a great options and Iím sure I will need them anyway sooner or later ... I bought 5500 lights.... and the mega tree and 1-2 more matrix will probably be added next year... just didnít wanna go way over the top till I get the basics going and know more what Iím doing. So Iíd probably just put a expansion in the upper middle and far left and make it work? Lore less.... again 1000 ways to skin a cat right lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Lebanon, Illinois, USA
    Posts
    2,349
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: General Layout/design questions

    Also, remember even if you don't have the expansion board, you can turn on the expansion board in the F16V3 firmware and use any of the second 16 ports to go to the single receiver via the serial output jack (DMX1). This will give you 20 outputs from that same board. Note that like if you actually plugged in an expansion board - you split the available # of outputs between your main board and the outputs.
    Live, Laugh, Love.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Ludlow Ma
    Posts
    294
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: General Layout/design questions

    Thereís many different ways to do things. I have a friend a town over that runs about 600 pixels
    On every port. I use my entire F16 to run my pixel tree, I use more ports for convenience. I could go out today and setup my entire show, 13
    Controllers, and not have to use a single note to figure out what plugs in where. Itís all preference. I think youíd find out that using the expansion boards with the differential receivers simplifyís a lot.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Family display since 1982
    Plywood cut outs and motorized
    Over 35,000 lights
    New for 2011
    48 channels of LOR (10% complete)
    Roller Coaster (planning stages)
    Patriotic Mega tree (40% complete)
    Multi-animation skating Snoopy (Planning complete)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    houston, TX
    Posts
    449
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: General Layout/design questions

    Most geeks first starting out don't worry about ease of installation. This lasts until their light count goes above 8 -- then they care.

    It's wise to build your systems with some Longevity and Ease Of Installation details in mind from the beginning. Details are:
    1) do NOT design light strips or lights so they are right on the ground. Water will destroy them, sealed or not. Give a couple inches from the bottom of the prop to where the power comes in and the lights begin.
    2) quick disconnects add time to the construction only once. NOT having quick disconnects will add time to the construction every single year.
    3) RGB strips are not waterproof unless they are laying in a sealed silicone sleeve. The encapsulated type will wick water in slowly between the pcb and the plastic, and the lights WILL die from corrosion in a few months.
    4) Make notes in a clip binder or spiral. When in doubt, make notes. And if you see something odd, make notes. You will be adding to this for the entirety of your lighting career. And you'll be referring to it just as much. Nothing is more frustrating than forgetting the pinout of a prop you made 5 years ago -- notes will prevent you from blowing it up because you couldn't recall what pin was what.
    5) LEDs give you 10x the light of incandescent. They also have zero warm up time. Going all (or mostly) LED will save you a fortune not having to rewire the house for monsterous power to the garage.
    6) PC power supplies are an excellent source of 12V and 5V. Learn how to short the green to black wire to turn them on.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •