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Thread: Troubleshooting a 12 volt power supply

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    Default Troubleshooting a 12 volt power supply

    So I got a few power supplies from ray wu, and when I was testing them I forgot to switch from 230 to 115 on one of them and now it wonít come on.

    Iím going to replace it using one I found on amazon, but I would like to have a back up.

    Does anyone know where to start with troubleshooting this thing? I canít be that complicated. Itís just a power supply.

    Thanks in advance.


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  2. #2
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    Default Re: Troubleshooting a 12 volt power supply

    You can run a power supply set to 230v with a 115v source all day and not do any damage to it. You wont get good regulation and you wont get a lot of current but as long as you don't short it out, you should not break it. If you still have a warranty then you should ask for a replacement.

    FYI setting a PSU to 115v and then applying 230v WILL do damage.


    2018 - Moving and going to visit my Daughter in New Zealand. Most likely I will be dark or nearly dark, Some static stuff that is simple to put up.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Troubleshooting a 12 volt power supply

    Agree with previous post. But, if you want to troubleshoot it, there is usually a fuse that has wire legs soldered on (or they are made that way, can't remember) which is soldered on to the PCB (they stick up a bit off of the top of the board). Check to see if it has continuity.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Troubleshooting a 12 volt power supply

    Quote Originally Posted by rstehle View Post
    Agree with previous post. But, if you want to troubleshoot it, there is usually a fuse that has wire legs soldered on (or they are made that way, can't remember) which is soldered on to the PCB (they stick up a bit off of the top of the board). Check to see if it has continuity.
    Updated fuses on Switching power supplies are sometime difficult to find compared to their "GLASS TUBE" counter parts from the past. On the board it should show some sort of fuse symbol or amperage rating. If that fuse did not open, then the problem could be down stream - or worst case - defective power supply.

    You can verify the fuse by checking for continuity from the HOT screw of the PS and carefully trace its path also. This method takes some flipping and tracking components as you find them. You will possibly find an MOV also. This should show as OPEN as it only conducts in over voltage conditions and spike protection.

    I have replace many fuses and repaired quite a few switching power supplies - mostly from bad electrolytic capacitors.

    Hope this helps!
    -Eddie

    The missus wants to ride!

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