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Thread: a problem with a RobG WS2811 10watt flood

  1. #21
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    Default Re: a problem with a RobG WS2811 10watt flood

    Anyone wanting to get these may I suggest do it!! They are great. I started three years ago with dumb 10w then got a couple 20w. This year I had 6 10w dumb 6 10w 2811 and 2 20w 2811. I use the build time as my “happy place” lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #22
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    Default Re: a problem with a RobG WS2811 10watt flood

    Quote Originally Posted by DaleP View Post
    I got my controller and tested the two 20 watt floods. Both work great. Then I tested the 10 watt flood and found that red and blue was reversed on the led I'm using so I decided soldered the two transistors and put them in the other holes for reversed LED's. The flood lights up red as soon as it's plugged in and works in the test mode, but the blue is purple. The red stays on after the test mode is turned off.
    I will have to check the board over again, but I'm really good with an iron. I also clean the flux off really well when I'm done and dry with compressed air.
    Any ideas?
    Did you ever get them to work? Mine would light up as soon as they got power. Sounds like you are having the same problem. I'm curious to see if yours work.

  3. #23
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    Default Re: a problem with a RobG WS2811 10watt flood

    Sorry for the late reply, but it's been a crazy few weeks.

    Majority of issues are related to soldering, either short (pad to GND) or cold solder. Sometimes, the problem is with switched 2N3904 & 78L05.
    If the board works after assembly but stops working when in enclosure, one of those things could have happened:
    1. if there's no isolation between PCB and enclosure or LED pads and reflector, a short could be the reason
    2. when GND is disconnected before data and power, WS2811 could get fried (especially when supply is 24V and higher,) the effect would be steady color
    3. moisture could cause short and damage the board
    4. changing temperatures could affect weak solder point and make it a cold solder
    5. >5V on data line will damage WS2811

  4. #24
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    Default Re: a problem with a RobG WS2811 10watt flood

    Quote Originally Posted by RobG View Post
    Sorry for the late reply, but it's been a crazy few weeks.
    Did you have a chance to look at the pictures i emailed?

  5. #25
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    Default Re: a problem with a RobG WS2811 10watt flood

    I haven't had time to play with mine yet. I'm assuming I damaged one of the transistors or the board when I removed the parts and re soldered them. I'm really good at soldering, but it doesn't take much heat to damage these boards. I hope to have some time tonight to play with it again. I'm going to order some more 20 watt or even some 50's soon and will just add another 10 watt board to the order if I can't get it to work.

    Dale P.

  6. #26
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    Default Re: a problem with a RobG WS2811 10watt flood

    Quote Originally Posted by DaleP View Post
    I haven't had time to play with mine yet. I'm assuming I damaged one of the transistors or the board when I removed the parts and re soldered them. I'm really good at soldering, but it doesn't take much heat to damage these boards. I hope to have some time tonight to play with it again. I'm going to order some more 20 watt or even some 50's soon and will just add another 10 watt board to the order if I can't get it to work.

    Dale P.
    I'm not sure how heat can damage these boards. It takes more heat than a hobby soldering iron to attach the SMD components.

    I'm not the best solderer(spelling?) in the world... but right before i built my 10w Floods i built 6 ESPixelSticks from scratch (ordered the PCBs, soldered the SMD components myself.. etc) and they all work fine. However, ZERO of my four 10w floods work.

    I'm not sure how i could have messed all 4 up

  7. #27
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    Default Re: a problem with a RobG WS2811 10watt flood

    [QUOTE]I'm not sure how heat can damage these boards.[QUOTE]

    You can actually separate the coper traces from the board with too much heat. I have never had it happen while soldering up a board, but find it's easy to do if you have to remove a part and put it back in. Some boards are quite resilient to a little extra heat, but the cheaper ones are not.

    Four is a pretty bad average

    If it makes you feel better most of the diagnosis LED's on my Renard control boxes don't work. Only two out of five boxes have working LED's. I blame it on the really cheap led's that come with the kit!

    Dale P.

  8. #28
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    Default Re: a problem with a RobG WS2811 10watt flood

    Quote Originally Posted by TheLost View Post
    I'm not sure how heat can damage these boards. It takes more heat than a hobby soldering iron to attach the SMD components.

    I'm not the best solderer(spelling?) in the world... but right before i built my 10w Floods i built 6 ESPixelSticks from scratch (ordered the PCBs, soldered the SMD components myself.. etc) and they all work fine. However, ZERO of my four 10w floods work.

    I'm not sure how i could have messed all 4 up
    Damage to the PCBs usually comes from trying to remove soldered components - it is tricky. I think the damage Dale is talking about is component damage caused by overheating. You can damage almost any component with too much heat. ICs and transistors are the most sensitive. I work in the signage and lighting industry and we've even had problems overheating LEDs for matrix message displays.
    Jim H.
    Muskego, WI
    Falcon F16v3, PiCap, FPPs. Lynx Expresses, xLights

  9. #29
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    Default Re: a problem with a RobG WS2811 10watt flood

    Pads are very small and they can be damaged during desoldering or even soldering (it doesn't matter if they cheap PCBs or not, all PCBs will get damaged when heated for too long.) I never heat them for longer than 3 seconds (775F.) To desolder SMD and some TH parts, I use heat gun. To desolder resistors, transistors, etc., first I cut them off leaving just a short lead on each pad. This way, you don't have to heat the pad multiple times, one short touch with iron will do the trick and the pad does not get damaged. When hole is plugged with solder, I leave it as is and just solder new component from the top (I cut leads before hand.)

  10. #30
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    Default Re: a problem with a RobG WS2811 10watt flood

    Thelost, did you get your lights figured out yet?

    I screwed up mine and ended up ordering a new board. I put the new board together and it works good. I damaged the transistors on the last boards when I tried to remove them and change the RGB sequence. It doesn't take much heat to screw them up, perhaps that's the issue with your boards? Still seems weird that you can't get four different boards to work.

    Dale P.

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