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Thread: Triac soldering

  1. #11
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    Cool Re: Triac soldering

    Great tip Wayne, wish you had posted that 6 months ago.
    Kevin Lang

    64 Channel Olsen 595 64 Channel Grinch 4 Xmus Ren16's

    Running Acer P4 3.0 GHz and 1.00GB Ram Win XP

  2. #12
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    Default Re: Triac soldering

    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne J View Post
    The distance between them depends on the board you have, but for the SSR 2.4, it is 1 13/16"
    Wayne:

    How did you determine this measurement? Some fancy geometry or t-and-e? ;) ...

    I have a bunch of SSR4s to build and would like to use this technique.

    Thanks.

    \dmc

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Triac soldering

    Quote Originally Posted by dmcole View Post
    Wayne:

    How did you determine this measurement? Some fancy geometry or t-and-e? ;) ...

    I have a bunch of SSR4s to build and would like to use this technique.

    Thanks.

    \dmc
    Of course while a little neanderthal, you could just adjust the straight edge until the triacs are straight. From there it just a measurement.
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  4. #14
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    Default Re: Triac soldering

    Quote Originally Posted by WWNF911 View Post
    Of course while a little neanderthal, you could just adjust the straight edge until the triacs are straight. From there it just a measurement.
    Leon:

    Ah, but you caught me: I did try that approach and came away with unstraight triacs ... they were even, but not at a 90-degree angle to the board. My eyeballs aren't what they used to be (but then, none of my pieces/parts work the same as they did but a mere few decades ago). And it was hard to get the little carpenters' square underneath the board to make sure ;) ...

    BTW, that's what I was referring to in a "t-and-e" (or trial-and-error) method.

    \dmc

  5. #15
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    Default Re: Triac soldering

    Quote Originally Posted by dmcole View Post
    Leon:

    Ah, but you caught me: I did try that approach and came away with unstraight triacs ... they were even, but not at a 90-degree angle to the board. My eyeballs aren't what they used to be (but then, none of my pieces/parts work the same as they did but a mere few decades ago). And it was hard to get the little carpenters' square underneath the board to make sure ;) ...

    BTW, that's what I was referring to in a "t-and-e" (or trial-and-error) method.

    \dmc

    I got that too and so far have gotten around that by 1st soldering only one post per triac. Sort a tack weld if you will. Check it, then if you need to adjust its easy.

    Leon
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