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Thread: 3 Amp+ per channel SSR?

  1. #11
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    Default Re: 3 Amp+ per channel SSR?

    Quote Originally Posted by dirknerkle View Post
    Making a 3A SSR isn't rocket science. Bigger/thicker traces, heftier triac (possibly), heat sink... No biggie really. The reason we don't have that as a regular board is because there's so little demand for it. With the push to LEDs and pixels, a 3A A/C SSR is a pretty rare thing... Sure isn't hard to make though.
    I'm still all incandescent and probably will be for awhile so I may on occasion pull a few extra amps. I really like the thought of engineering and fabricating a custom board from scratch. That is something I have never attempted. Work keeps me pretty tied up and with all of the Renard and DirkCheap SSR's I'm building this year a custom board project will just have to wait.

  2. #12
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    Default Re: 3 Amp+ per channel SSR?

    Quote Originally Posted by dirknerkle View Post
    Making a 3A SSR isn't rocket science. Bigger/thicker traces, heftier triac (possibly), heat sink... No biggie really. The reason we don't have that as a regular board is because there's so little demand for it. With the push to LEDs and pixels, a 3A A/C SSR is a pretty rare thing... Sure isn't hard to make though.
    Maybe not rocket science, but not totally straightforward either. The biggest issue is not bigger/thicker traces (this is just the first hurtle), but probably thermal management. Four channels at 4A each, for example, translates to approximately 16W that are dissipated by the triacs as heat. If the SSR is located out of doors, that almost certainly would mean melted snow around whatever enclosure the SSR is mounted in, which in turn means water, and the need to keep it away from the electrical circuitry. And this probably means a sealed enclosure, which means that it gets quite hot inside...and the triac junctions are even hotter. And that means that you probably need to measure the actual temperature of each of the triac cases to make sure that the junction temperature is within limits. All in all, a moderate amount of engineering is needed to make sure that the things will work reliably in the field when they are deployed by others.

    Using those SSRs in a protected environment is a bit easier. Care must still be taken to ensure that there is enough air circulation around the SSRs, and that little fingers are protected from the heat, and that there isn't anything flammable close to them in case the SSRs overheat or somehow self-destruct.
    Phil

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  4. #13
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    Default Re: 3 Amp+ per channel SSR?

    Why not just get a few SSR and rig it up to a regular SSR board. IF its a rare need like this may as well take what exesits and just make it work.


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-State-...item4d07f2c19e
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  5. #14
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    Default Re: 3 Amp+ per channel SSR?

    Quote Originally Posted by kingofkya View Post
    Why not just get a few SSR and rig it up to a regular SSR board. IF its a rare need like this may as well take what exesits and just make it work.


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-State-...item4d07f2c19e
    Yep - that is the way to go (perhaps not that specific one but similar) - they are very simple to hook up to a RenardSimple32 or Ren64 - just be sure you get one that supports "random-cross" and not "zero-cross" (I know that sounds counter-intuitive but that's what you want). The random-cross versions dim whereas the zero-cross do not. Also review the current requirements to turn them on as you are limited to some degree by the outputs of the PIC. With these you get a very safe and high-amperage setup.
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  6. #15
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    Default Re: 3 Amp+ per channel SSR?

    Those (SSR-40DA) are zero-cross types. No good for dimming.
    /mike

  7. #16
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    Default Re: 3 Amp+ per channel SSR?

    Hi All -
    I have a similar problem. I am looking for (2) 5 AMP SSR to work with a Renard SS24. I don't need the lights to dim but it would be nice if possible.

    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

  8. #17
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    Default Re: 3 Amp+ per channel SSR?

    Sorry, kind of digging up this old thread, but rather add to this than start a new one. For using a larger hockey-puck SSR, would something like this work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Solid-S...EAAOxyzi9SkHCw to get a higher capacity? If I was using this with a Ren64, with the external SSR's, how would one wire it in?

  9. #18
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    Default Re: 3 Amp+ per channel SSR?

    The Crydom D2440D-10 datasheet that the description says it equivalent to.. lists it as having an SCR output rather than a Triac.


    For hookup..Renard channels have a sinking (negative) output. Pins 2,4,6 & 8 would go to each pucks negative control terminal. Pin 1 +5v supply is common and would go to all the pucks positive control terminal's.


    Copied from the Wiki :

    Controller Output (SSR Input)

    RJ45 controller outputs should be pinned out as follows:
    Pin 1 - +5v supply
    Pin 2 - Channel 1 output
    Pin 3 - reserved
    Pin 4 - Channel 2 output
    Pin 5 - reserved
    Pin 6 - Channel 3 output
    Pin 7 - Ground
    Pin 8 - Channel 4 output


    -Craig

  10. #19
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    Default Re: 3 Amp+ per channel SSR?

    If you are not worried about dimming, you could also use a PCH-2la106s (or similar). This is a 110/110 volt AC (mechanical) relay. You could use a regular Renard to turn on anything up to 10 amps. Clyde Dearing demonstrated these at the EXPO.

    Downside is you have to run a second AC line to power the prop (or lights)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Keith R; 10-03-2016 at 11:55 PM.
    That's a feature not a bug.
    There's no charge for that.

  11. #20
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    Default Re: 3 Amp+ per channel SSR?

    If your looking to connect to the low-voltage side of a Renard, go with what Reddy_Kilowatt said (I don't know enough of how it works... I only recently got some Renard controller boards & SSR boards, and haven't done anymore than solder on the IC sockets & a few resistors)

    When I built 120v SSR's I did them as a stand-alone unit (so could be plugged into any controller (and if necessary put on a separate breaker to split up loads)). Oh and also "built my own" with a triac/opto-isolator/resistors/etc, rather than buying a pre-built unit like the hockey-puck ones.
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