Re: Question(s) For Those That Used Pegboard For Their LEDTriks
My frame was cut out of dressed 1" x 5" softwood timber, initially I thought it would not be stable enough, but this proved to be no problem. All the 3/4 " framing strips to hold the panels inside the frame, and the back, is dry screwed for the same reason you suggested, "should I ever need to get the panels out of the box". The panels themselves are not attached to the frame at all simply a tight friction fit between the front retaining bead, that is glued in, and the 3/4" rear screwed strip. As I said below, I rebated the front of the center pair of verticals to allow for the matrix to get as close to the box edges as possible so that they would appear to one unit when they are joined together as a unit. From memory I think I reduced the edge to about 1/4" thick for about 1" to 1 1/2" deep so that I could maneuver the panel into place easily after completion. Once the panels themselves are installed inside the "Box" it really stiffens up the whole assembly, although the overall cabinet strength is due to the front Acrylic sheet and the plywood back.
I fly my pair, clipped together, up above a bow window roof about 14' in the air. I lift them on two trunk handles, one at each end of the pair of panels, with Polyester rope running through a 2" pully attached with a "D" shackle and then over another pair of pully's attached to "J" hook screws into the underside of the eaves, the rope end is lashed to the "J" hook to give a 2:1 purchase for the lift. My wife plays "Anchor" and pulls the other end of the ropes while I climb a ladder and position the whole assembly as we lift it to its final location. It hangs there happily for the whole of the display season lightly resting on a couple of bricks wrapped in black polythene, to stop the wind blowing it around, and also direct it's field of view more directly at the audience.
If you look closely at the signature picture you can see the panel above the window on the right hand side. It is also visible in our the "Vimeo" videos, for example :- http://vimeo.com/34500058 etc.
While I am rambling about the construction, for the record, at the rear of each panel, to hold the wiring to the LED's nice and tidy, I mounted some second hand aluminium curtain rail on short lengths of 1" in diameter polythene rod that I had in my workshop. These were turned down at the peg board end to around 1/2" diameter for about 1" high to ensure that they didn't interfere with the LED's, and then threaded on both ends 5.0 mm metric, to suit the hardware that I had on hand. They were then mounted on the back of the panel from the front with pan head metal thread screws to afix the standoff's, and the aluminium curtain rail attached the same way on the rear. The Ledtrix and "Pix C" boards were mounted in a similar fashion, but on a piece of Acrylic sheet that I had laying around as the base. Once everyting was in place I painted the heads of the pan head screws satin black on the front so that they dissappeared into the black background. This little bit of extra work made the back of the panels a whole lot tidier and easier to work on than if the wiring was flying "free", let alone a lot less chance of wires detaching themselves at the "wrong" moment!!
"Tory Street Lights", Nelson, NZ
"Lucky Home" - 2012 Local Christmas Lighting Competition
2012 :- 11 x Ren 64XC's - 550 Channels, 40,000+ lights. 2,500 or so LED's for the first time :-)
2011:- 7 x Ren 64XC's - 384 Channels, 30,000+ lights - all incandescents! 2 x Commercial LED Panels (72x7)!
"Supreme Winner for 2010" Local Christmas Lighting Competition
2010:- 4 x Ren 64's - 256 Channels Controlled by Vixen - "Brilliant" :-)
18,000 to 20,000 Lights - all incandescents! 2 x LedTricks Panels with "Pix C" interface's
2009:- 128 Channels of "Hill 320", 4,000 Lights