Help customizing my DC Electric Golf Cart. It's all DC.

[Gonkulor]

Hello lighting hobbyists.

I posted once in the Welcome!! thread. I need my own thread to ask you kind and generously knowledgeable people if you can assist me.

Here is my original post;

Hello all. I just registered and figured I would drop in here and say hi and also say why I'm here.

I'm in a project consisting of approximately 4 hobbies, IE. golf cart, metal fabrication, computers, and LED lighting. I have restored a 1993 36vdc electric EZGO golf cart. I am also custom fabricating an early classic 1930ish automobile style body on it. I put a carputer in it with a touch screen monitor and now that I have the computer working it's time for me to get all the lights for it. My plan for being here in this forum is to learn what I need, for a light show I plan to unveil on the 4th of July. I would like to have the appearance of fireworks, under and around the cart, going off to our national anthem. I'll have colored strobes and a smoke maker too.

I have way too many questions for this post. Plus I need to read all your FAQ and WIKIs.

Best Regards
Gonk

If I can add a small reply to my post.

...cut...I'm in a project consisting of approximately 4 hobbies, IE. golf cart, metal fabrication, computers, and LED lighting...cut...

I don't golf. I had never welded before I bought this cart. I have never done any LED lighting or decorating. I'm quite good with computers, electronics, and I've even compiled some code here and there.

I thought that last bit should be added for clarity.

So now. I have read many WIKIs and FAQs to the point where I am going in circles. I need help with a few things.

I think I have answered my power supply questions. My original concern is being solely powered off of DC batteries. I can get 36v > 12v converters. The DC-DC converter is more efficient than doing a DC-AC inverter and driving it back to DC. I do plan to stick with all 12v accessories, is that a bad plan?
I don't want to run straight off of a 12v battery, it's just not wise. A 12v battery is 12.44 when fully charged and will most likely be around 11v when I plug them in at night to charge.

Also, my main battery pack for the cart motor consists of six 6v heavy batteries equaling 36v. I did install one very cheap 12v automotive battery to power my computer stuff and for the music system. The extra 12v battery is an entirely separate battery pack. I plan to upgrade the extra battery pack from just one 12v battery to three 12v trolling motor or deep cycle batteries. Especially since I have an extra 36v charger. I should add how the typical DC motor puts out a lot of EMF/RF interference. Having an entirely separate battery pack should help alleviate some EMF/RF interference.

That there folks! Is DC, pure DC power and a lot of it too! Anyone see any issues yet?

I need to buy some stuff and I'm looking for a turn-key approach when buying hardware.

ATM I'm thinking two LOR CMB16D-QC controllers, 15 meters of smart ribbon, dumb rgb ribbon, and six to ten strobes. I'll admit to spending many hours on LOR forums and perusing their stock.

What other hardware options do I have? When I get going in the WIKIs and FAQs I'm finding some outdated info 12-16 month old. Gotta love Moore's Law! I also find many broken links.

Searching the internet is difficult when I keep coming at it from a pure DC voltage angle. I have some luck but I sure have to pick through a lot of AC converted stuff.

I think one 30 amp DC converter will be ok per board, even though each side of the LOR board is 20 amp capable. I don't see myself using that much current with what little I will run. the reason I want two boards and two converters is so I can keep my heavy draw items, headlights, taillights, running lights and brakes separate from the smart ribbons. I'm also worried about the EMF/RF interference. I might be boxing myself into a corner with the interference issue if I put one converter on each battery pack, because both LOR boards [each supplied power by a different pack] will meet at one point, and that point is the computer.

I think I have beaten the DC power and interference issue enough. Next Question.

Should I even be thinking about E1.31? DMX? I want to have upgrade ability. If I get the LOR Advanced software and those boards I should be covered there. Getting way ahead of myself I will mention I desire the ability to also control servos. I do have a plan, once this part of my build is done, to GPS program the cart with waypoints. With the help of some rotary actuators and proximity sensors I should be able to get the cart to drive down to the store. At the store they can toss my groceries on the cart, hit a button, and it will bring it all back home. But that is getting way ahead of myself for now. Lets just say I do like DMX abilities.

How much extra am I paying for a 5m strip of lights to also come with a controller? Do I just cut the controllers off? I will be running a pretty centralized system and think it is a waste of power to have so many controllers? Or is it necessary to have the individual pixel string controllers?

Holy Hanna I have said a lot in one post. I have more but I'm still reading and understanding.

Best Regards
Gonk

[mpurser]

Hello lighting hobbyists.

I posted once in the Welcome!! thread. I need my own thread to ask you kind and generously knowledgeable people if you can assist me.

Here is my original post;


If I can add a small reply to my post.
I don't golf. I had never welded before I bought this cart. I have never done any LED lighting or decorating. I'm quite good with computers, electronics, and I've even compiled some code here and there.

I thought that last bit should be added for clarity.

So now. I have read many WIKIs and FAQs to the point where I am going in circles. I need help with a few things.

I think I have answered my power supply questions. My original concern is being solely powered off of DC batteries. I can get 36v > 12v converters. The DC-DC converter is more efficient than doing a DC-AC inverter and driving it back to DC. I do plan to stick with all 12v accessories, is that a bad plan?
I don't want to run straight off of a 12v battery, it's just not wise. A 12v battery is 12.44 when fully charged and will most likely be around 11v when I plug them in at night to charge.

Also, my main battery pack for the cart motor consists of six 6v heavy batteries equaling 36v. I did install one very cheap 12v automotive battery to power my computer stuff and for the music system. The extra 12v battery is an entirely separate battery pack. I plan to upgrade the extra battery pack from just one 12v battery to three 12v trolling motor or deep cycle batteries. Especially since I have an extra 36v charger. I should add how the typical DC motor puts out a lot of EMF/RF interference. Having an entirely separate battery pack should help alleviate some EMF/RF interference.

That there folks! Is DC, pure DC power and a lot of it too! Anyone see any issues yet?

I need to buy some stuff and I'm looking for a turn-key approach when buying hardware.

ATM I'm thinking two LOR CMB16D-QC controllers, 15 meters of smart ribbon, dumb rgb ribbon, and six to ten strobes. I'll admit to spending many hours on LOR forums and perusing their stock.

What other hardware options do I have? When I get going in the WIKIs and FAQs I'm finding some outdated info 12-16 month old. Gotta love Moore's Law! I also find many broken links.

Searching the internet is difficult when I keep coming at it from a pure DC voltage angle. I have some luck but I sure have to pick through a lot of AC converted stuff.

I think one 30 amp DC converter will be ok per board, even though each side of the LOR board is 20 amp capable. I don't see myself using that much current with what little I will run. the reason I want two boards and two converters is so I can keep my heavy draw items, headlights, taillights, running lights and brakes separate from the smart ribbons. I'm also worried about the EMF/RF interference. I might be boxing myself into a corner with the interference issue if I put one converter on each battery pack, because both LOR boards [each supplied power by a different pack] will meet at one point, and that point is the computer.

I think I have beaten the DC power and interference issue enough. Next Question.

Should I even be thinking about E1.31? DMX? I want to have upgrade ability. If I get the LOR Advanced software and those boards I should be covered there. Getting way ahead of myself I will mention I desire the ability to also control servos. I do have a plan, once this part of my build is done, to GPS program the cart with waypoints. With the help of some rotary actuators and proximity sensors I should be able to get the cart to drive down to the store. At the store they can toss my groceries on the cart, hit a button, and it will bring it all back home. But that is getting way ahead of myself for now. Lets just say I do like DMX abilities.

How much extra am I paying for a 5m strip of lights to also come with a controller? Do I just cut the controllers off? I will be running a pretty centralized system and think it is a waste of power to have so many controllers? Or is it necessary to have the individual pixel string controllers?

Holy Hanna I have said a lot in one post. I have more but I'm still reading and understanding.

Best Regards
Gonk

well i also am building a porject on a golf cart and i have 30 years experience with multi battery systems you will need something to lower the voltage to the level you need its not a wise idea to hook lights ect to just a few batteries yes you can get 12 from to 6s it would be best to use a dc to dc reducer that way your not killing one pair of them or run them off the extra batteries you listed mine will not be ready the 4th its going to be Santa s slay in the local parades with christmas tree in the back covered with ge g 35 color effects lights5 volt stuff heres the link to the one i ll be using h ttp://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/405618/211100948-464827851/DC-DC-Converter-12V-24V-8V-40V-Step-down-to-5V-15A-75W-dc-to-dc.html

[Gonkulor]

mpurser, interesting. Those are not as powerful as the DC converters they sell specifically for golf carts but they are a heck of a lot cheaper. I'll definitively run these units thru my power equation requirements. I'm happy to hear something from someone who has a background in batteries. I'm quite aware of not running off of a portion of the pack. We don't want to have that imbalance which shortens the life span of an already costly item. Treat those batteries well!

Thank you Sir
Gonk

[timon]

Try here, http://www.trcelectronics.com/dc-dc-...enclosed.shtml they have a wide range of converters.

[StandingInAwe85]

Warning: this post is short and to-the-point. I'm not intending to bash LOR here or anything, but it would be a lot cheaper to get some of the boards designed by DIYC members and the "smart" pixel strips from aliexpress (look for posts here talking bout ray wu). Since you already have a computer on board, there is no need for a stand-alone controller. Also, you can keep it all DC powered, as the boards that power the DC devices can be powered by DC current... assuming you'll use all LED's. You might want to take a look at the pre-sale over at http://www.diyledexpress.com/ You'll have to act fast, but they should have a lot of what you're looking for.

[Gonkulor]

Try here, http://www.trcelectronics.com/dc-dc-...enclosed.shtml they have a wide range of converters.

That! is was I was wanting. TY Timon

Warning: this post is short and to-the-point. I'm not intending to bash LOR here or anything, but it would be a lot cheaper to get some of the boards designed by DIYC members and the "smart" pixel strips from aliexpress (look for posts here talking bout ray wu). Since you already have a computer on board, there is no need for a stand-alone controller. Also, you can keep it all DC powered, as the boards that power the DC devices can be powered by DC current... assuming you'll use all LED's. You might want to take a look at the pre-sale over at http://www.diyledexpress.com/ You'll have to act fast, but they should have a lot of what you're looking for.

LOL, Short and to-the-point is good! But you flipped the short switch. That means I have to flip the long switch back to the short position. I have more questions now

I'm not a fan of any software or hardware. I'm only learning and I felt staying only at LOR forums I was being fed their line. Write or wrong, staying with only that forum I was not getting a big picture and that is why I posted here. I know you were not bashing them or me.

Where are these boards designed by DIYC members? I see topics for Hardware, software, display items, learning center, and general. All the topics are discussions. General does have "The DIY Store". Is that what you are talking about? I'm very interested in saving money and staying away from things I do not need.

Seeing that DIYC isn't a MFG itself, I find this forum more of a level playing field. But I read the rules to sign up and they seemed rather lax with the sales and 3rd party links. Unless you try to sell worthless junk, you can always post an advertisement in "The DIY Store" topic. I look at the store is just a semi weeded out google search.

Please, all store vendors, I mean no offence. There is just so much to weed through.

Yes I will run all LED and I see words of "ray wu" everywhere.

Yes I have a computer on all the time when carting. Is what you mean by not needing a stand-alone controller as I can get a cheaper 4 or 8 channel DMX dongle to do everything? BTW, I'm still somewhat confused on the term channels. Pixels vs. channels I think I understand.

If I do use the dongle approach vs. large controller, do I worry less about amps/watts because the individual strips have a powered controller. That to me sounds like going decentralized.

Best Regards
Gonk

[mpurser]

if you run leds on a golf cart it will not carry enuff weight and space wise to worry about unless you are pulling a 40 foot trailer full my whole yard display last year only used 35 dollars worth of electricy for 45 days