Newbie questions

[YoDadio]

Merry Christmas!

I just found this website and now think I would like to try to make my own cut outs for next year. I have already saved a number of images of Christmas themed cartoon characters caroling that I would like to create. For scaling purposes I was thinking of making the "average" character 3-4' tall. This would also lend itself nicely to a 4x8 piece of plywood and/or coroplast. I have a number of questions I am sure have been addressed here somewhere, but darn if I can find them.

Which is cheaper, coroplast or 1/2" plywood?
What gauge coroplast should I use?
Which is more durable (assuming adequate care)?
What is adequate care and storage?
How does one stake down the coroplast and does it need a "back" brace? If so, how? (PVC or 2x2 wood and screws...)
Any tips on cutting coroplast?
Does coroplast need special paint?

[SCBonner384]

Hello YoDadio,

I am new here as well but read a post earlier that took me to the following link. It address Cutouts of wood but it's a very good description that I think I will be following in the future. Good Luck and I hope this helps.
http://www.landolights.com/main/content/view/62/39/

Scott

[djulien]

What gauge coroplast should I use?
Which is more durable (assuming adequate care)?

If you live in a high-wind area, large surface areas can be a problem; plywood would likely be more sturdy in that case.

don

[Henedce]

For my cutouts i use plywood . coro is awesome indoors cheap and it reflects light well .
I build my window displays with coro but they are indoors only.
I did find this year that my plywood cutouts faded over the month but a little touch up and all set for 2012 although im thinking of changing my theme

[Muskogee Gene]

I have done coro for several years. I have a Christmas tree of stars that I have displayed for 10 years and the coro is just now starting to get hard. The trick to keeping coro is to store it in the dark. UV shortens its life significantly. If you store it outdoors expect a life of just a few years (3-4). My plywood cutouts have held up better than most of my coro stuff with repainting from time to time but warping has been a problem especially on the thinner material.

Which is cheaper - coro or plywood? coro is a little higher. I source my coro thru a sign company that is willing to sell a few sheets.
What size? I use the thinner stuff because it allows more bulb to show and is easier to punch.
Hanging? I use short pieces of 1x4 screwed to the coro with a fender washer to keep the screw from pulling thru at whatever angle the design allows and align them vertically. I then connect those pieces with 1x4 vertically with the wood just slightly longer than the coro at the bottom to keep the coro off the ground. I use lightweight t-posts used for poultry wire or rabbit wire to hold the display. These posts have holes in them for screws into the vertical 1x4s. I find them at Lowes and at farm and ranch stores. they are about $3 each for a 3 ft post.
Bracing? I haven't used bracing except what I do to hang. For longer displays I just use more posts. Pay attention to the direction of the corregation when laying out the pattern. The corregation provides quite a lot of strength in one direction and weakness in the other.
Cutting? I use a utility knife and straight-edge
Paint? I don't paint mine so no help here. Paint reduces the glow you get but it is personal preference.

I have attached a picture of a coro mini tree (sorry for the poor quality). Note the screws with fender washers. These are 1x4s mounted horizontally which are then connected by a 1x4 backbone vertically. The corrogation ribs are horizontal giving it adequate stiffness and the backbone keeps it all straight vertically.
hope this is helpful.