10 Watt RGB Flood Light

**joeytx** · 10-28-2011, 04:58 PM

You still have to lift the gates. I use a dental tool that has a 90 degree angle to lift while I heat the leg.

Mlkren - if you would likem the next one I do i will video and post to Vimeo. Using the right supplies, you can go from concept to finished product in 90 minutes.

**cruizer** · 11-04-2011, 11:58 AM

Ok, please excuse my ignorace, because it's been a couple years since I've been here, but can you control these, RGB Dimming and all with Vixen? I am so far behind, I can't remember anything, I didn't even set up last year.

**Entropy** · 11-04-2011, 12:26 PM

Originally Posted by cruizer

Ok, please excuse my ignorace, because it's been a couple years since I've been here, but can you control these, RGB Dimming and all with Vixen? I am so far behind, I can't remember anything, I didn't even set up last year.

You'd need some extra hardware - the mod brings out isolated on/off control lines, those lines still need to be PWMed by something.

**mschell** · 11-04-2011, 12:58 PM

I bought a similar light from a China seller. When I opened the compartment, all I got was a module that was filled with epoxy and am unable to see or modify any of the components. Now the leads to the LEDs are accessible, so I may try to figure out something else...

**chesterspot** · 11-06-2011, 07:34 PM

Mine has yet to come.

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**chesterspot** · 11-07-2011, 07:25 PM

Mine came in today. Here's what the board looks like. To lift the gates in going to have to desolder the resistors. I'm thinking about using an external ssr to trigger this. I want to be able to use this stand-alone throughout the year. I'll have to play with it some.

Does anyone see any issues with my plan?

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**joeytx** · 11-08-2011, 06:38 AM

One of the ones FireCop sent me was like this one. I unsoldered the resistors where the red, green and blue wires are attached. I bent the resistors out. I pulled all four wires back to the topside and pulled the red and black power leads through the drilled hole. Resolder the red and black power wires, solder the red, green and blue wires to their respective resistors using heat shrink to protect the soldered end. There are three SMD resistors coming off the gates of the fets, remove them completely. This is where you will attach the interface board, on the pad closest to the fet. Resolder the black wire coming off the LED module to the red power lead. I drilled a hole in the bottom next to the power cable and bush the cat5 through that. I used a small wire tie on the inside to hold the cat5 and sealed it with silicone. Strip back the outer sheath about 5" and insert through the second hole. Wire up the cat5 cable to the interface board and wire the the interface board to the original power board.
May seem hard but it really only took me about 20 minutes to do the second one. If you would like more detailed pictures let me know.

**chesterspot** · 11-08-2011, 07:22 AM

Thanks Joey. I'll give it a whirl when I get back from vacation.

**joeytx** · 11-08-2011, 11:05 AM

Chesterspot,
You're not far from me, if you want to set up a time I'd be happy to help you. I have a couple of the interface boards built up. Happy Vacation.

Joey

**chesterspot** · 11-08-2011, 11:22 AM

It doesn't seem too hard. I just need to order the 4n35's or see if EPO has them as well as the resistors.

Thanks for the offer, my only issue will be the interface board. I think it'll have to be external as I don't do home etching. Also, being external I was going to see if I couldn't figure out a way to use it stand-alone as well. I think if I pulled the P/S out and made it external I would have enough room to make that idea work. I'll probably just end up scrapping that idea though because of time and patience.

We're heading out of the country for 9 days starting Friday. It's not really the ideal time to go with work, school, and blinky going on but it was setup a while ago. Plus, I need a break.