10 Watt RGB Flood Light

[scubaspookf]

How would you conect a REN48LSD to these lights? I just built my first 48 and dcssr's. I already have about 3 of these floods that I got for halloween.

[budude]

How would you conect a REN48LSD to these lights? I just built my first 48 and dcssr's. I already have about 3 of these floods that I got for halloween.

Should be pretty easy - you have direct access to the LED RGB leads and hopefully they are common anode to work with the DCSSRs. You may want to package the DCSSR into the enclosure since it already includes the power supply. You'll waste a channel but the "neatness" factor of it may be worth it.

[scubaspookf]

Well I just fried one of my lights. Can someone post pictures of how to hook this thing up. Pictures in post 37 and 47 are no longer there. I am sure that I did something wrong. The light worked good a few minutes then I heard a pop and my blue turned almost a shade of red. Red and green still works so far. My 10 watt light is like what is posted in first post. The circuit board is identical but the resistor coming off of the R of the circuit board and going to the led is a different resistance and the led is different. Instead of having six leads coming off the led it only has four. Since I don't know how to etch can someone tell me how to hook up labrats dcssr up to this light. I still have one more light but I really hate to fry it too.

[budude]

The original purpose of this thread shows you how to hack these lights and run via an SSR type interface. Basically, what joeytx did was to make a 3-channel DCSSR minus the FET drivers which already exist on the light. If you follow the instructions you can run it directly to your Ren48LSD as-is and save a DCSSR if you want. You should be able to use a partially built DCSSR and run wires to the existing board drivers which will save you from building the homemade SSR joeytx came up with.

If you want to bypass all of that and use a regular DCSSR you need to make sure you have current limiting resistors inline to the LEDs or they will blow pretty quick - it sounds like this may have been your issue? Note that the LED is probably a common anode or common cathode version which means the three anode (or cathode) leads are tied together. You would end up with either a common +DC (aka common anode) with R-, G- and B- or a common GND (aka common cathode) with R+, G+ and B+. This is why there would only be 4 leads versus all 6. The DCSSR design uses a common anode configuration.

[scubaspookf]

If I ran the light directly from the REN48LSD would I still need to install resistors to each color? What size resistors would I need for each color if so? How many of these lights can the REN48LSD drive/handle? If I use a conversion calculator say 12v , 10 watt I come up with .83 amps for the lights don't know if that is correct or not. My power supply that is currently hooked up to the REN48LSD should have plenty of amps 12vdc 14amps to drive one side of the board.

If I use the DCSSR what size current limiting resistors would I need? The led has a common anode.

[budude]

No - you cannot drive the LEDs directly with the LSD - it only goes up to ~400mA/output. Even if you could, you still need current limiting resistors. Those resistors should already be on the light's existing electronics and they will be pretty big. I don't know if these are 10W per color - if so you'd be looking at 3-5A per color (you have to use the LED forward voltage in the calculations, not the power supply). Take blue - it will be around 3.2v or so - 10W / 3.2v is around 3A. The resistor would have to drop around 9v at 3A or a staggering 27W! That's why I doubt these are 10W/color - more like 10W total RGB.

What I'd suggest is to measure the voltage across the existing resistors on a stock light then measure the resistor value (with the light off!). I = V / R so that will give you how much current is flowing.

[angus40]

I agree the wattage rating is at full bright /white 10w = max dissipation .

[scubaspookf]

is the 400ma output on the LSD total for the board or total per rj45 jack?
next, how many diyc floods can I hook up per rj45 jack? I see that a typical is 2 to fit in a 500watt halogen worklight.
third, how many diyc floods can i run total on the LSD

[budude]

is the 400ma output on the LSD total for the board or total per rj45 jack?
next, how many diyc floods can I hook up per rj45 jack? I see that a typical is 2 to fit in a 500watt halogen worklight.
third, how many diyc floods can i run total on the LSD

It's 400mA per channel - since each RJ45 is 4-channels, it would 4x400mA or 1.6A for all four outputs per jack...

The DIYC Flood uses 100mA per channel (it has five 20mA paths of LEDs) - you could connect up to four DIYC floods to each RJ45 jack or theoretically 48 DIYC Floods (4 floods x 12 jacks). Keep in mind of course that the four floods on the same jack would all react the same since they are all tied together. I'm sure Dave (dlovely) would love to sell you 48 floods from diyledexpress!

[scubaspookf]

It wasn't until last night that I was doing some reading on the forum that I noticed/paid attention that you had came up with the REN48LSD, DIYC Flood and the REN4Flood. I know other folks have said the same thing but thanks for coming up with this as this makes getting into RGB stuff easier for someone like me (Baby steps) and incorporating the REN line of stuff and the ability to use Vixen.

I bought the REN48LSD and DIYC Floods and DCSSR thru diyledexpress along with some other items when they had their sale a couple months back. I received them about 2 weeks ago week, but wasn't able to assmble them until last week due to my soldering iron had died and I had to purchase another. Assembly was no problems except for not receiving the flood connection kit. When diyledexpress has another good sell on these items I will buy much more, since now I know more about how these items operate and what I can do with them. So another 48 floods isn't out of the picture.

Once again thanks and sorry for getting off topic of the original thread.