Building LED Strobes

**Jakeleg1969** · 10-24-2010, 09:36 AM

Originally Posted by budude

I absolutely recommend something like THIS - it makes things much easier - especially for us old folks... My kids laugh their butts off when I wear them but I keep reminding them how genes work...

Yea!!! ........ What he said!!!...

I have these in my workshop and they are wonderful. Also great for threading needles and removing splinters... Of course, not to mention, blinky flashy projects...

"how genes work"... I have the same problem as you budude.. perhaps we are related... let 'em laugh..

Jerry in Louisiana :D:D

**rkhanso** · 10-25-2010, 11:56 PM

Originally Posted by budude

The 10cc tube of paste should last for the entire 200 strobes I think - I can't even tell I've used any yet! I'm using the 1/2" "Green" tip which is the 21 gauge. I also have the 23 gauge "Lt. Blue" tips which are too small for this I think. I popped out all the parts into separate bins to make it easier to grab them (also easier to spill them...). I found it easier to put them on in assembly line order - that is put all of one part on, then the next, etc for one strip of 9 boards. I put them on in this order:

Brian, did you have to order a plunger for the syringe? Or did that come with it? It is nearly 2x the price of the solder so I wonder if it's included. It looks like the tips need to be ordered separately, too. Any other suggestions for things to order - what you wish you would have ordered, or ordered something you didn't need..

**budude** · 10-26-2010, 12:45 AM

I do believe I had to order one but they do have the "Economy" version which is much cheaper ($4). I just figured after 200+ of these and n1ist's color sticks that my hand would be hurting after using the eco version so I splurged (OK - a lot) on the fancy version. It should last forever though and I plan to do more SMD stuff in the future. The #21 tip seems about right - it comes out pretty slow but that's probably a good thing and it seems about right for the pitch of these (especially that #*$@ PIC!). The tips are cheap too - I bought a couple 10 packs but I'd suggest getting a couple of each around that range #21 range. I got some of the longer ones but the extra length didn't seem necessary so stick with the 1/2".

If you don't have a GOOD set of tweezer/grips - then get a pair or two. I happened to have a couple sets already. I like the curved ones instead of the straight kind but you might want to try either. You'll want to have a pad to set the board on so it doesn't move around - I have a full ESD pad which works well.

The solder paste comes in that large syringe but you should know it's only filled for about 3/4" of the way (just past where the label starts) - it is not a fulll syringe - but even still it should last most folks for their entire project.

Have good lighting and magnification also.

**N7XG** · 10-26-2010, 01:11 AM

Brian,

I guess when I signed up for this project I did not fully understand. Must have been a senior moment.

I have boards, are parts still available?

**budude** · 10-26-2010, 01:29 AM

You might want to ping fathead45 (Matt) and see if he ended up with extras from the coop(s). There's a BOM of parts in the group buy post(s).

**budude** · 10-27-2010, 03:03 AM

OK - I built up 9 more PIC based strobes tonight. The way to program these is to configure the programmer for the PIC10F200 device, insert the programmer, read the blank device, import the hex and finally write it. You do not need to check Vdd On or MCLR (using the PICkit 2 programmer here) to program the device - it will automagically apply power for it. The check for the Vdd on, is just that - it turns on power to the device when you check it - period. So - if you have that checked, the strobe will immediately start flashing after programming.

Once you have read in the first device, I found that I could write all subsequent devices by inserting the programmer and hitting Write - that's it.

I did have one device that got the OSCCAL error and I found pin 3 was not soldered down. It was lifted off the pad by just a hair and was impossible to see from looking at it from the top. I pushed it down with tweezers and resoldered - bingo - programmed/worked fine after. I had another device that programmed fine but the LED was very faint (but blinking). I found a short between two of the NUD side resistors - very tiny but just enough... After cleaning that up - it worked fine as well. I'm hoping to get at least 24 PIC and 24 non-PIC built to fill out a Ren48LSD to see how it looks. I'm thinking of using Cat5 and splitting the cover off about 2-3' down from the end and running a strobe off each pair of wires. I know the wiring is definitely not meant for the outdoors but if it lasts two seasons I'll be happy enough.

**Matt_Edwards** · 10-27-2010, 05:03 AM

After seeing the actual size of the components involved I decided to assembly some. Here are a couple of pictures showing actual placement.

These were hand soldered used a 2mm tip. I use 0.35mm solder because I have it, and it makes life super simple. four boards took about 12minutes to solder and assemble.
Sorry for the slight blurring, it is hard to hold the camera real still.
Hope others find the pictures useful.

**Matt_Edwards** · 10-27-2010, 05:37 AM

OK now I have a dummys question. Do i need to power up the Strobe to program it, or does the programmer ( a Sure Electronics PICKIT3 in this case) supply power?

**David_AVD** · 10-27-2010, 07:41 AM

The PicKit can supply Vdd. That's the easiest way.

**ukewarrior** · 10-27-2010, 10:17 AM

Nice work Matt !

Thanks for posting pictures with very useful labels.

Originally Posted by Matt_Edwards

After seeing the actual size of the components involved I decided to assembly some. Here are a couple of pictures showing actual placement.

These were hand soldered used a 2mm tip. I use 0.35mm solder because I have it, and it makes life super simple. four boards took about 12minutes to solder and assemble.
Sorry for the slight blurring, it is hard to hold the camera real still.
Hope others find the pictures useful.