Light Canon Assembly

[Macrosill]

This is my 3 Color Light Canon Assembly. It cost about 5 dollars for all the parts, less the bulbs. The base is made from 1/2" pvc and some pvc T's and 90's. The light canons are made from a 2"-1 1/2" pvc reducer and a length of 1 1/2" pvc. The bulbs are MR16 led floods. There is 32 leds per bulb. Each assembly has a red, green and blue bulb. The canons are attached to the framework with a 1 1/2" 8-32 and matching wingnut. This allows the canon to pivot up and down on the vertical post. The post is friction fit into the base so the canon can pivot left and right. These 2 joints will allow each light to be independently aimed to and exact location. All the other joints are also friction fit so I can knock them down for storage. Each assembly takes 3 channels and I will have 7 assemblies to illuminate my house in different colors.

[xmus]

where do you get the bulbs? How much?

[Macrosill]

the bulbs were a group buy on Planet Christmas.

[xmus]

It looks fantastic. Professional.... I'm looking for something like this, the cheapest i can find floods (At Walmart) is about $6 each... but I can only get Red, Green, Blue, no orange...I suppose "bug proof" lights might pass for yellow... but floods use a lot of power and get pretty hot.

Stupid question.... i know LED's require PWM code with Renard, but do your floods also require PWM code (I'm wondering if that many LED's would draw enough current to get the SSR to latch, or maybe if there are any other electronics in the assembly....?)

[NogginBoink]

Brian, how well does the color mixing work for you? I'd love to see a video!

[tconley]

Are you running the MR-16 with AC or DC and are you dimming them?

[Macrosill]

Xmus,
I should get some testing done with these particular bulbs this week.

Noggin,
The green is the brightest but when all 3 are shined on the same spot you get an almost white light. So the color mixing seems to be pretty good. As the kids walk through the light path the lights produce different color shadows, purples as well as others.

T,
Currently I am running them off DC but may try AC if I can get my hands on a reasonably priced transformer. The landscape ones are pretty pricey for testing purposes. They will dimm!!!

[FireGod]

A transformer out of a trickle battery charger should work.

[tconley]

what board are you using to control them on DC I did know anyone had gotten a DC control board working with dimming. Can you post the pcb?

[tconley]

can you show a closup picture of the connection between the upright and the cannon

[greenmeanie]

I am curious on power savings. How much difference between the LED and standard flood?

[Macrosill]

I will get a pic tomorrow.

As to the power consumption, the leds use 2 watts per bulb where the regular floods use 90-100 watts. The standard and/or halogen floods are brighter but not 50 times brighter.

[greenmeanie]

I will be dumpming my floods for leds next year for sure :)


I will get a pic tomorrow.

As to the power consumption, the leds use 2 watts per bulb where the regular floods use 90-100 watts. The standard and/or halogen floods are brighter but not 50 times brighter.

[lbro]

Has anyone built these or something similar using the M16 Spots? I had a few emails wanting a How-to for the newsletter. Lets give Brian a break, if anyone else built light cannons and would like to write a how-to, please send me a PM. I could use it in the May issue!
Thanks in advance,
Lou

[Macrosill]

I know this is an old thread but I want to add some information to it.

After using these bulbs for 1 display season I found out they are not designed to be outdoors unprotected from the rain and snow. They appear sealed but after the season I found some had rust on them. An indication they are not sealed.

So I had to come up with a way to seal these bulbs form the elements. I did some brain storming and researching how others have sealed these bulbs. I wanted a solution that was cheap, effective and fit into my current fixtures. The solution I liked best was the way Wirekat, Kevin, sealed his, using clear plastic ornament globes. The ones he used were too large to fit into my 2" pvc fixture. I checked the site Kevin got his from and they also sold a smaller version, 60mm. The price was right, at .79 each and I would get 2 covers, half the globe for each bulb. So .39 per lens. Not too bad but I was still not positive they would fit and did not want to purchase 50 of these things to find out they did not work the way I wanted. I then went off to my local arts and crafts store, A.C. Moore, and walked the entire store. I was looking for something similar or the solution CrazyLightLady, Annalisa, used, as I did not think the store would have Ornament Globes in May. Annalisa used some beading containers. I wound seeing the Ornament globes out of the corner of my eye, same ones as online for the same price. I took a fixture with me to do a test fit and it was a perfect match. I bought all they had, 25 of them gave me 50 lenses. I may need a few more but about 15 minutes after I got home all my MR16s have clear lenses that will keep them protected from the rain and snow. Not too bad, .35 cent insurance for 6+ dollar bulbs.

I am working on a how to for the June newsletter as I have received numerous questions about them. I will have the lenses in there as well.

A big thanks goes out to Kevin for hosting all the great MR16 fixture solutions and for his design. A big thanks goes out to Annalisa for her ideas and solution as well. I did find the bead containers too but they were too small. Had they been the proper size they may have worked a little better.

[omzig]

I went to a local arts and crafts store and they had plastic ornament globes, but they must have been from a different manufacturer than the ones that Kevin and Brian used because they they had a big ugly sprue point at the apex of each half.

So I decided to come up with my own inexpensive way of sealing these. I came up with what I think is a pretty good prototype. It didn't really cost me any money now because I already had the materials on hand.

What I did is cut circles out of plexi to use as a cover. I cut a 3/4" ring out of 2" PVC to put into the PVC reducer to act as a mounting surface for the circles. A thin bead of clear silicone adhesive on the ring seals it.

[Penfold]

That's pretty neat!! Very clean!

WHAT!?!.... :shock: WAIT A MINUTE..........Those pvc reducers look like the flower pots found attached to graves here. Hmmmm....... Already had stuff of hand huh? ;) (J/K).

[deplanche]

Been busy making a few of these and have a few questions.

1 - What is the purpose of the hole in the reducer?
2 - The bulb goes in the one end of the 1 1/2" PVC with the reducer on it. So the wires are sticking out of the other end. What do you use to, if anything, to keep water out of that end?
3 - How are you connecting the wires from the sockets to the controller?

[omzig]

Been busy making a few of these and have a few questions.

1 - What is the purpose of the hole in the reducer?
2 - The bulb goes in the one end of the 1 1/2" PVC with the reducer on it. So the wires are sticking out of the other end. What do you use to, if anything, to keep water out of that end?
3 - How are you connecting the wires from the sockets to the controller?1 - I'm not sure what hole you mean. The bulb rests nicely on the inside of the reducer. Actually I forgot to mention that I also put a ¼" wide piece of 1½" pipe under the bulb to space it up a little higher. I have it so the LED's almost touch the plexiglass.

2 - I haven't decided how I'm going to handle this yet. You could put a 1½" cap on the end with a hole for the wires, but this would significantly add to the cost. I don't think it's a good idea to completely seal this end. I think that there should at least be a small drain hole at the bottom in case some water does manage to get inside, so it doesn't get trapped. This end will be pointed down, so the bulb should stay dry unless the wind blows moisture up to them. I'm going to try something that just keeps snow from blowing up inside, but falls short of completely sealing the end.

3 - I'm using these: http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=200

[sandy]

3 - I'm using these: http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=200

Is this where you got the MR16's ?

[omzig]

Is this where you got the MR16's ?No. I got them from the group buy on Planet Christmas by Wirekat.

[deplanche]

1 - I'm not sure what hole you mean. The bulb rests nicely on the inside of the reducer. Actually I forgot to mention that I also put a ¼" wide piece of 1½" pipe under the bulb to space it up a little higher. I have it so the LED's almost touch the plexiglass.

2 - I haven't decided how I'm going to handle this yet. You could put a 1½" cap on the end with a hole for the wires, but this would significantly add to the cost. I don't think it's a good idea to completely seal this end. I think that there should at least be a small drain hole at the bottom in case some water does manage to get inside, so it doesn't get trapped. This end will be pointed down, so the bulb should stay dry unless the wind blows moisture up to them. I'm going to try something that just keeps snow from blowing up inside, but falls short of completely sealing the end.

3 - I'm using these: http://www.ledwholesalers.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=200

1 - If you read the How-to in the newsletter, it says to drill a hole in the reducer, which it clearly shows in the photos. I am just not sure what this is for, since it doesn't seem to line up with anything.

2 - I think that answers my question.

3 - That is what I am using to connect the MR16's to wires, but what about the wires from the sockets to the power and the controller. Is a wire nut covered with electrical tape sufficient if the back end of the 1 1/2" pipe is left open to the elements?

[omzig]

1 - If you read the How-to in the newsletter, it says to drill a hole in the reducer, which it clearly shows in the photos. I am just not sure what this is for, since it doesn't seem to line up with anything.
Huh, I read the June newsletter, but I'm not sure how I missed that how to :confused:. Anyway, Brian would be the one to verify this, but if I had to guess, I'd say it's a drain hole so water doesn't build up. It's not necessary for my design because the plexiglass lens is at the edge of the reducer.



3 - That is what I am using to connect the MR16's to wires, but what about the wires from the sockets to the power and the controller. Is a wire nut covered with electrical tape sufficient if the back end of the 1 1/2" pipe is left open to the elements?I was planning to use wire nuts.

[WWNF911]

Is a wire nut covered with electrical tape sufficient if the back end of the 1 1/2" pipe is left open to the elements?


Here (http://www.wingrovemarketing.com.au/idc-gel-connectors-us.html) is another option depending on your wire size. They are also at Home Depot.

Leon

[omzig]

Here (http://www.wingrovemarketing.com.au/idc-gel-connectors-us.html) is another option depending on your wire size. They are also at Home Depot.

LeonThe problem I see with those is that they are designed for 19-26ga solid wire. I plan to use 18ga SPT1 for mine. The sockets have 18ga leads. Even though for a single bulb a smaller wire would handle the current, you still have to look at the physical durability also.

I also thought of soldering and heat shrinking, but wire nuts seem adequate and are quicker and easier.

[deplanche]

That's what I guessed the hole was for, but I just couldn't tell for sure. In the end, I think I am going to go more with what you did than Brian since I can't seem to find anything but glass ornament bulbs, and I already have a pile of scrap plexiglass from some picture framing.

In a previous post you said you were using a 1/4" spacer, and then the plexiglass to keep the plexiglass just off the bulb. I understand what you mean there, but I am wondering, that is a very small space that is going to have the bulb in it, and it will be completely sealed off. With a regular blub, I would be concerned about melting the plastic or just the general heat build up. I assume since these are LEDs that isn't a concern since they don't generate that much heat.

[omzig]

In a previous post you said you were using a 1/4" spacer, and then the plexiglass to keep the plexiglass just off the bulb. I understand what you mean there, but I am wondering, that is a very small space that is going to have the bulb in it, and it will be completely sealed off. With a regular blub, I would be concerned about melting the plastic or just the general heat build up. I assume since these are LEDs that isn't a concern since they don't generate that much heat.I put the ¼" x 1½" pipe to space under the bulb to raise it up a bit. Then there is also a ¾" x 2" piece for the plexiglass to mount to.

I don't know if you had a method in mind for cutting the plexi circles. The circle cutting guides that I have require a pivot point in the middle, which obviously won't work in this case. I made a jig (see pic) to guide my RotoZip with a GuidePoint bit. If you are not familiar with a RotoZip, it's kind of like a Dremel tool, only bigger and more powerful. The GuidePoint bit is not sharp at the end so you can use it to follow the edge of an object that is underneath the one that you're cutting. It is used a lot by drywall installers to cut around electrical boxes. I just lay the plexi on top of the jig and then cut using the ouside edge of the piece of 2" pipe on the jig as a guide. The trick is getting the speed right. If it's too fast the plexi melts, too slow and it chips. I found that 20,000 RPM works best. I'm sure there are many other ways to do this but this is the one that worked well for me.

As far as the heat buildup, I don't think it's going to be a problem. I have left these on for several hours and they get just slightly warm.

[deplanche]

I cut one peice of the plexiglass with a razor blade into a octogon and then sanded it into a rough circle. Took a little longer than I would like seeing that I have 15 more to go, so I'll have to give the rotozip/dremel method a try. Thanks.

[Macrosill]

The hole in question is to drain any water that may pool up in there.

[mrpackethead]

I'm not sure what a rotozip is. I've cut heaps of 'shapes' out of perspex and plexiglass with a router. Make a 'template' of the shape you want to make out of hardboard or similar and round around it.. A bit fiddly to set up to start but very fast once you get going.

[omzig]

I'm not sure what a rotozip is. I've cut heaps of 'shapes' out of perspex and plexiglass with a router. Make a 'template' of the shape you want to make out of hardboard or similar and round around it.. A bit fiddly to set up to start but very fast once you get going.Kind of the same idea...you can do the same thing with a router.

I made the jig because the 2" pipe was the perfect size to fit the reducer.

[deplanche]

Thanks for the confirmation of the reason for the hole Brian. And very nice design. Got 4 of them almost finished.

[Macrosill]

Glad to help.

[tconley]

a rotozip is basically a small hand held router with a spiril cut bit the is very good at cutting in what ever direction you push it.

http://www.thetechzone.com/reviews/tools/rotozip/rotozip.jpgg