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billh
11-27-2009, 05:32 PM
What is the best way to power the Olson 595? I have built Sean Bowf's 595, I have 128 channels and am using a desktop computer. I used an external power supply and I noticed the 595 IC's getting hot. Any help?

dirknerkle
11-27-2009, 05:35 PM
If you open the computer and can find a spare disk drive power cable, it likely has 5vdc at about 1A available, plenty to drive a 595. Those power connectors typically have two black, a red and a yellow wire. Either black is ground; the red it +5vdc and yellow +12vdc.

It's pretty normal that the uln2803 ICs will get warm, depending on how much juice the ssr's are taking... which probably isn't very much, all things considered.

billh
11-27-2009, 05:40 PM
Thanks I'll try that and the 74hc595 IC's are getting hot when the SSRs are NOT connected.

dirknerkle
11-27-2009, 05:57 PM
What sort of power supply were you using? Most of the time when you get a wall-wart type power supply that says 12v, it tests out at 16-18 volts. that will certainly cause the chips to get much warmer than normal. I have several 595 boards and even after they've been on for an hour or more, they're barely warm to the touch. I power them from a PC power supply, although it's an external one and not the one in the PC. Using an external one gives you not only the right voltages, but good current, too. Plus, you also get multiple 5v, 12v and even 3.3v outputs, too.

When you use the power from a PC power supply (whether in the computer or external), it's really locked-in and predictable. ;)

billh
11-27-2009, 06:05 PM
Im using a wall-wart type power supply and I measurd the voltage and it reads 8.1. Thanks I'll use the PC power supply. And I have one more question. My parallel port only supplies 1.5v on pin 2. Any way to boost the voltage?

daviddth
11-27-2009, 06:52 PM
Go buy a better supply. 8.1V is WAY too high. You are aiming at 5V -/+ 5%. Plugpacks (aka Wall Warts) are rarely up to the job, so thats why most of us use a decent regulated power supply, or a modded old PC power supply. I use the latter, although all the electronics are now supplied by home made built-in 12VAC to 5V DC voltage converters (4 diodes, 2 caps, a LM7805) and a small heatsink.

Works much better than before, and the only thing on the PC supply this year is the Ledtriks and the LED lights on the Megatree, and they will both be modded next year to have a 12V AC supply to them as well.

billh
11-27-2009, 07:02 PM
Thanks I'm going to use my old PC power supply. That should solve the voltage problem.

dirknerkle
11-27-2009, 07:03 PM
Im using a wall-wart type power supply and I measurd the voltage and it reads 8.1. Thanks I'll use the PC power supply. And I have one more question. My parallel port only supplies 1.5v on pin 2. Any way to boost the voltage?

I agree wholeheartedly with daviddth! You're lucky you haven't fried them!!!

I don't know of a way to boost the parallel other than a charge pump, but you'd need 8 of them (one for each channel) and that would get ugly...

Be sure your parallel port is EPP and if it fires your 595 boards as-is, I'd leave it alone. :-)

billh
11-27-2009, 07:05 PM
Ok thanks I'll try that. And I am new to this so how do you put the parallel port is EPP mode?

devo96
11-28-2009, 12:56 PM
Bill,
i've been following your computer trials through the other forum as well....

does anyone think it would be possible to use an op amp on each channel to jump up the parallel port voltage? it could be driven by the same PSU that drives the 595 board, right?

would this interfere with the timing, or would the op amp be fast enough to keep up?

dirknerkle
11-28-2009, 01:41 PM
Ok thanks I'll try that. And I am new to this so how do you put the parallel port is EPP mode?

When your PC boots up, you usually get some sort of a power-up screen. Often it will say "Press F-2 to enter CMOS" (or some other key, possibly F-10 or DEL instead). This screen is well before you see anything related to Windows.

You need to be very quick and press the specified key. The computer will enter the CMOS configuration, and there's usually a place in it for PORTS or intergrated peripherals, or ??? where the parallel port is configured. There are many modes available, but EPP usually works best. ECP would be a second choice if EPP isn't an option.

billh
11-28-2009, 04:25 PM
I looked up my computer model and you can't change to EPP mode because the computer is too old. "Basic Parallel" works so would that mean "Simple 595" would work?

dirknerkle
11-28-2009, 07:10 PM
I looked up my computer model and you can't change to EPP mode because the computer is too old. "Basic Parallel" works so would that mean "Simple 595" would work?

If you used basic parallel last year, then it should work again, although you sound a little uncertain...

Be sure the address of the parallel port is correct. If you try the Olsen 595 plugin, you get LPT1 as your first choice, and this defaults to 0378H address. If you're using basic parallel, you may have to set the memory address to what your LPT port it. If the computer is an older one and has only one LPT port, it's probably 0378.

RavingLunatic
11-28-2009, 07:33 PM
Since you are using an Olsen 595, then you only have two options of plug-ins to use either the Olsen 595 or the Simple 595. The Basic Parallel plug-in only provides direct control of the data lines so you can control "items" directly, it doesn't create a serial data/clock stream like is needed for the 595.

billh
11-29-2009, 12:55 AM
If you used basic parallel last year, then it should work again, although you sound a little uncertain...

Be sure the address of the parallel port is correct. If you try the Olsen 595 plugin, you get LPT1 as your first choice, and this defaults to 0378H address. If you're using basic parallel, you may have to set the memory address to what your LPT port it. If the computer is an older one and has only one LPT port, it's probably 0378.

Thanks, I'll check the address

dirknerkle
11-29-2009, 01:25 AM
Thanks, I'll check the address

BTW, RavingLunatic's right about the Olsen plug-ins... you need to use one or the other because of how the controller works and the way data is formatted and sent to the controller. Basic parallel is a lot different than either of the Olsen plug-ins, but that doesn't mean trying the basic parallel isn't worthwhile!

billh
11-29-2009, 05:10 PM
I'm using "Simple 595". I just tested the parallel port with "Basic Parallel"

P. Short
11-29-2009, 05:22 PM
If you really want to buffer the outputs from the PC parallel port, use either a 74HCT125 or a 74HCT04/74HCT14. The HCT04/HCT14 is inverting, so for each input to the Grinch/Olsen you need two sections in series. And make sure that the letters in the middle of the part number are HCT (and not just HC), so that the input levels are compatible with the parallel port.

tigerscott
02-28-2010, 08:20 PM
Is there a neater way to provide power to this board than a separate cable to P1?

I have searched but cannot find reference to supplying the power through the cat 5 cable in RJ45 In. The schematic shows pin 1 optionally being connected to P1 through the jumper J1. This looks so obvious but is the reason I can not find any reference to doing it this way is because of noise (miss fires)?

To bad the clean 5 volts in the computer's power supply is not available on the parallel port, but fishing one out of the computer and feeding it into the Parallel to RJ45 adapter would not be to hard or messy. Is this the way field located Olsen's wired?

RichF
02-28-2010, 08:24 PM
I made up a cable adapter that would take power from my onboard power supply and pass it up the appropriate pins in the cat 5 cable. If you look in the wiki you will see how to do this.

tigerscott
02-28-2010, 08:49 PM
Thanks, I found the article on the adapter.
I am still getting used to how to find stuff in the Wiki.