HELP: soldering Triacs

[robots4joey]

I was attempting to solder my triacs to a stripboard (proto board with copper traces) and the triacs are getting very hot! hot enough that I couldn't stay holding on to them.

I assume this is bad. and I definitley need to do something different.

Here's my setup:
30/15 watt soldering iorn using 30W, 15W seems to take a long time, and I didn't want to heat the triacs very long

I have pushed the triac leads all the way down into the board so they will fit in my enclosure (there is about a 1/4 of an inch from the board to the triac's body)

What am I doing wrong? is there a way to divert that heat away from the triac?
Will the heat ruin the triacs?


Thanks for the help!

[Mudsculpter]

dont hold them when you solder. Tape them in place and invert that PCB. It should only take a few seconds to heat the parts up enough to melt the solder. And, for the most part,.....The triacs will survive the heat.

[xmus]

All electronics are rated to take the heat of soldering for a few seconds... just try to do the best you can, as mudsculpter says, you'll probably be fine.

Try wetting a sponge, and cleaning your soldering iron tip and getting it a little wet, that can help.

Also, if you are using lead free solder, that is much harder to flow, and requires a lot of heat... which could be your problem? Get some flux core solder with lead if you don't already have some.

If all of that is wrong or doesn't work, you might try buying a nicer soldering iron.

[robots4joey]

Thanks for the advice.

I'm using lead solder, and it worked great with the coop 595, the holes in this board are bigger, so there's got to be alot more solder in the hole to hold it in place.

I have some experience with soldering... but I've never had to get parts that hot before.... I'll make sure I've got a clean tip though.

What about clamping a pair of needle nosed vice grips between the body of the triac and the board as a heat sinc? I might try that.....

[stempile]

Back to the tape... Push in the traics from the top side. Run a strip of masking tape over them with the tape on the edge of the board as well. Flip over the board and solder.

Solder Process (it will seem longer then you think):
1. Touch the solder tip to the triac leed being soldered and hold
2. count to 3 while continuing to holding the solder iron on leed
3. touch the leed at the point its coming out of the hole with solder
4. flow solder in, should cover hold and leed, do not remove iron yet
5. keep iron on lead count of 2 after flowing solder in

You should be using the leed to melt the solder not the iron. The iron will heat up the leed for you. After adding the solder you need to keep the iron on to ensure the solder has correct temp. This will ensure a good joint 1/2 way to 3/4 of the way down the hole around the component.

You aren't likely going to be able to hold any component while soldering unless it is surrounded by a lot of plastic. Example: A resister, they heat up quick too. You will brand yourself holding that.

Triacs as designed to transfer heat to a heat snink, so any heat coming up bia the leeds will be quickly transfered to the body (use disapation in a heat sink, heat sink = your fingers in this case) and to your fingers.

Be sure you keep the iron on and at first it will seem like longer then you think it should (count to yourself), but that is necessary to ensure a good joint.


Good luck.

[holtm]

One other note: The the iron will transfer the heat to the lead faster if it is wet (that is there is a little solder on the tip)

[xmus]

Just my preference.... I prefer to bend the leads around so the part stays in when i flip the board upside down, rather than tape...

[grages]

This is one of the best video tutorials I've seen on how to solder.

http://curiousinventor.com/guides/How_To_Solder

Shawn

[Wayne J]

I actually used two rulers taped to my desk. One held the board and the other held the 4 triacs in a line straight line.

[RJ]

That it an excellent video I think I will reference from now on in all my how to info at the beginning for those new to soldering.

[grages]

That it an excellent video I think I will reference from now on in all my how to info at the beginning for those new to soldering.

I found that after you and I talked at the mini. I seems to be well scripted and covers all the bases.

Shawn

[Mudsculpter]

I think there should be a link to that tutorial from the wiki if that is allowed

[grages]

I think there should be a link to that tutorial from the wiki if that is allowed

I don't see why a link would be a problem.


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Redisplaying pictures or other content on other websites by "scraping" or "framing" the content from CuriousInventor.com is prohibited.

But a simple link should be no problem.

Where would we put it?

General Information and Tips?

[Mudsculpter]

General Information and Tips

subtopic "soldering basics"

A paragraph or two on the importance of proper technique wouldn't hurt.

[robots4joey]

WOW thanks guys!

I always know that if I have a problem, you guys are always there to answer it. Thanks so much.

now back to soldering!

[BillAd]

You can also cut down the excess leads on the triac to help reduce the amount of metal that needs to be heated.

Bill

[robots4joey]

Here's what I've ended up doing (at least right now) I am lightly clamping the row of triacs in a drill press vise (by the tabs). this not only keeps them in a line, but it gives them a massive heat sinc. Soldering goes great and the triac bodies hardly get warm.

Thanks for all the help, and the video!

[Sean Bowf]

What I used to do, before getting a better soldering station, is just tack the TRIAC to the PCB by barely soldering one of the leads. Then I would go back and cut all the leads off at the required length, and then go back and solder them all in. The long thick leads would suck the heat out of the soldering iron I used to use...and would make them hard to solder in. The shorter leads made it easier. To date, I have not had a bad TRIAC (knock on wood).

Sean

[MarkL]

What I used to do, before getting a better soldering station, is just tack the TRIAC to the PCB by barely soldering one of the leads.


That's good advice for a lot of different components. I do this with DIP sockets, multiple LED's (like those on the 595 boards) and other stuff. I tack one lead (or two - one on each end - of longer DIP sockets), then I can stand the board up and push on the component (might need finger protection if dealing with something that transfers heat well) while remelting to get the component well seated. Just remember when going back to fully solder you start with the lead that wasn't tacked or else the component will likely slip out of place.

Mark

[Creg]

Great video. One part I'm sill confused about. In the video I believe it eluded to the fact that dullness in the joint could be ok if you are using lead free solder and may not be indicative of a cold joint in that case. Is that correct?