240v Ren 16 parts

[Stevendi]

Hi gang, I'm new to this animation caper but have been decorating our house for 6 or 7 years now and now is the time to get really interesting for the neighbours.

I have pretty much decided on the make up the display, start out simple get silly next year, and have also decided on where to start controller-wise, ie Renard 16's but will need to be controlling 240v for some of the display and 24v or 36v for the rest, so obviously will need at least 2!

Now for the tricky part, can anyone help me with a list of part no's needed to replace the 110v parts for 240v and 24/36v operation. I'm not able to figure this out for myself but I'm ready to order parts and want to order the right stuff. Oh, and some instructions on what else needs to be altered would be handy too.

Many thanks.

Steve

[toodle_pipsky]

Howd'y Steve, I've been told you're trouble . . . . actually you couldn't be any worse than Kev :rolleyes: hehehehe

I've got some Ren 16s that I will be running 24V - all I had to change was the triac gate resistors (see this page http://www.christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_16_Controller under Resistors for values) and the resistors for the Zero Crossing (R17 & R18) . . . . now don't ask me how to work out the value of those, the notorious John told me those values - so someone smarter than me will hopefully chime in and tell you how to work those out.

Hope that helps. And welcome!

[Stevendi]

Hi there Toodle_pipsky,

Thanks for the advice, I had previously read that doc but made no sense to me, but the info was there all the time.

I should hope I'm no worse than Kev, I'm taller. Anyway it's all his fault, he started it! Well, he got started on the animation stuff before me, but in reality the Christmas decoration thing is our mother's fault, she forced us into it.

But enough of the history and on to the future.

Thanks again
Steve.

[klanger]

I should hope I'm no worse than Kev, I'm taller. Anyway it's all his fault, he started it! Well, he got started on the animation stuff before me, but in reality the Christmas decoration thing is our mother's fault, she forced us into it.

But I'm better looking, and yes your Honour, it's all our mothers fault. I rest my case.

[Stevendi]

Thanks to all for your advice.

I now have my boards (thanks john) and I'm now ready to order the parts for them.

But in my research I find 2 methods for adapting for 240v switching. I am on top of the gate resistor changes for both 240v & 24/36v switching, but where the 2 methods vary is on the H11AA1 limiting resistors. I have my head around both concepts but I am interested in opinions on either method.

One method suggests using resistors @ 3.3Kohms .25W 1% and cutting a trace to input 24/vac for the zero cross detection, the other suggests using resistors @ 33Kohms .5W 1% to allow 240v for zero cross detection, and leaving the traces alone and wiring the board as per usual, which would be my preference as it appeals to my sense of simplicity.

Anybody know of any reason why I shouldn't go this route? Are there any compelling reasons for either method?

I have done a fair bit of research and have found the part no's and have the bom ready to send to Mouser.

Thanks
Steve

[Macrosill]

Without being too familiar with the board the only reason I could think of going with the 24vac input is to keep the mains voltage off the board as much as possible. Otherwise its one or the other.

[Stevendi]

Without being too familiar with the board the only reason I could think of going with the 24vac input is to keep the mains voltage off the board as much as possible. Otherwise its one or the other.
Many thanks Brian, pretty much what I thought too so I will probably go the easy way.

Thanks again
Steve :D