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budude
07-17-2009, 03:06 PM
Is there a PCB layout for the DCSSR (I think v1.1?) available? Just bought a jug of etchant and wanted to try making my own. I looked on the Wiki but didn't see it there (I've PM'd wjohn also).

Thanks!
Brian

LabRat
07-17-2009, 03:11 PM
I went looking previously and didn't see one, which is why I spun a version in Eagle, and posted the layout to the "Files" section.

NOTE: I haven't built /tested it, as I don't have my REN boards yet in order to drive it.

http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=28&catid=9

budude
07-17-2009, 03:31 PM
Hey Thanks LabRat - I was about to try my own layout but why reinvent the wheel! It looks like it would be an easy etch project for sure. The only thing I might look at is changing the mounting hole pattern for the Keptel 200 enclosures (I have a dozen or so laying around).

The hole patterns were posted by RPM in this thread for the TA-200, CG-1000 and CG-1500 enclosures:
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7516&page=5

Looks to be a 1.4" x 1.0" pattern.

Thanks again!

LabRat
07-17-2009, 03:56 PM
Have at it... post the results. :-)

LabRat
07-17-2009, 04:07 PM
FYI.. the discussion on the design is here, which might explain why
some of the routing looks a bit odd.

http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7573

The main thrust was to keep the POWER vs PC (or micro) sides of the opto-isolator, as isolated as possible (so no cheating by running traces under there) ;)

budude
07-17-2009, 05:24 PM
OK - The only thing I had to change was to rotate/move the 7805 and then I can place 2 holes at 1.4" straddling the Opto. Should be plenty of room for the screw head (#8 or #10 I believe). The only thing I have to check is if the board will fit into the enclosure when screwed in. Unfortunately there's a couple measurements missing from those links so I'll have to make some manual measurements at home. Two screws should be fine to hold it in the case.

I'll post the updates when I find out.

Thanks!

LabRat
07-17-2009, 05:30 PM
Print it out on standard paper, cut it out, and test it to fit. Believe it or not, I hadn't considered this until I had seen pictures of people doing it in these forums. (Ya learn sumthin' new every day)

budude
07-17-2009, 09:55 PM
Hmm... one thing I noticed when I printed out the etch only was that there would be very little copper around the pads on several of the components. As an example, I looked at the RJ45 jack which is from the AMP (con-amp) library. It has a pad size of "auto". If I change that to .06 or so I get a reasonable amount of copper w/o shorting, etc. Now... I know the "auto" setting must mean that it can automatically set the pad thickness based on some parameters or something - so - you Eagle experts (I just started playing with it about a week ago) - how do you do that w/o editing the part library?

Thanks!

LabRat
07-17-2009, 10:22 PM
I etched a board on Sunday using those default settings, and it turned out just fine (well.. fine at the RJ45, I had a couple of breaks in some traces elsewhere, but that's a different story)

Making those larger may impact your ability to get decent clearance around them when running traces "between" the pads (though I'm not sure if that applies on this board).

LabRat
07-28-2009, 12:45 PM
Did you manage to get a version of this Etched?
(can you share you version back, so I can clone the board layout??)

I was thinking we could create a library of board shapes that fit various enclosures. (just an idea)

budude
07-28-2009, 12:51 PM
Not yet - been working on other stuff - I'll get back to it eventually!

LabRat
07-31-2009, 11:42 PM
G'day all.. here's my re-spin to try and match the layout of the TA-200 enclosures. I don't have any enclosures yet, but was hoping someone might be able to print this image, and do a dry fit to see if the screw holes align etc. No big rush, I'm still waiting on enclosures through the SSREz, and parts from the DCSSR buy.

Thx in advance if you can spare the cycles to try this.

budude
08-01-2009, 12:07 AM
Look great! - was planning to get back to this but got caught up with other stuff (list never seems to end for some reason!). I have a dozen or so TA200 enclosures so I'll try a test fit with a printout this weekend.

LabRat
08-01-2009, 12:14 AM
Look great! - was planning to get back to this but got caught up with other stuff (list never seems to end for some reason!). I have a dozen or so TA200 enclosures so I'll try a test fit with a printout this weekend.

Just as I was shutting down, I realized I didn't take into account the extra space for the jack at the bottom. So I will probably need a version 1.6, where I just move those holes a little further south on the board. (pulling the board "up" in the enclosure) I will probably rotate the 7805 at that point as well, and drop the top edge down to just "north" of the DC input on the top right. My "LabRat" image is just going to have to find somewhere "else" on the board to live. ;)

I'm hopeful that there's enough space to the right of the OUTPUTs that I can drill a hole and slide a cable tie through. Then once the DC wires are screwed in, I can tighten the cable tie as a strain relief. I didn't mark it.. in case it doesn't work.

Will look into trying "photo-resist" in the next couple of weeks, so that I can "reproduce" the design several times over (6 if the DCSSR coop finds the replacement MOSFET ;) ).

budude
08-01-2009, 12:49 AM
How about a top-entry RJ45? The TA200s have enough room for the cable to bend over out the entry ports on the bottom - plus it's easier to get it in/out - I wish I had done the same on my 32 AC SSROz I built...

I printed out the layout but the holes look just a shade too tight. According to the dimension drawing it's supposed to be 1.4" apart - can you double-check that? I'll print out again - maybe my hole punching skills stink!

edit - one more comment - the board is a bit scrunched towards the bottom of the enclosure and it looks like you might have at least a little bit of play to move the board north another 1/8 - 1/4".

LabRat
08-01-2009, 09:30 AM
Thanks for printing, fitting, and the most "excellent photo". I've checked, re-checked, and triple checked that I had a 1.4 spacing between those two holes. (located at 0.7, and 2.1 )

As per my notes last night (and your observations), I've brought the holes further "south", as well as moving the opto, resistors, and RJ45 jack a little further "north". This should gain the necessary spacing at the bottom.

The 7805 has been rotated, which allowed me to shrink the top edge even more. (less copper to etch).

Vertical entry jacks are certainly an option, if it weren't for the 100 side entry jacks I bought from 51fordf2. :rolleyes: I believe the part footprint is the same thought (will check with the 6 top entries that I've got here somewhere).

For testing the printouts, I've put a 3" scale at the bottom, marked at 1/2" increments. There's markings there for the drill centers as well.

Off to visit the outlaws...

g2ktcf
08-01-2009, 09:40 AM
You might consider turning your LED 90 degrees. Some folks like to bend them "down" and leave the leads long. This was one comment on my SSRez that I took to heart as well.

Chris

dirknerkle
08-01-2009, 09:57 AM
edit - one more comment - the board is a bit scrunched towards the bottom of the enclosure and it looks like you might have at least a little bit of play to move the board north another 1/8 - 1/4".

WOW! I'm impressed! It's the first DIYC board I've seen that has see-through components!!! :p :p :p :p :p

budude
08-01-2009, 10:00 AM
the most "excellent photo".

Hey - you dissing my Palm phone camera??? ;)


if it weren't for the 100 side entry jacks I bought from 51fordf2. :rolleyes:

Yep - in the same boat - I have a 100 of those also from Roger! I'll try the new layout and let you know.

EDIT - After printing it out, I measured the holes at 1-11/32 (1.34375") which would explain why they appear too close together. I have a hunch that my printer may be scaling the drawing (it shouldn't be as far as I know) or that the PDF got munched a bit. Can you try printing yours out and measuring to verify?


WOW! I'm impressed! It's the first DIYC board I've seen that has see-through components!!! :p :p :p :p :p

dirk, dirk, dirk... Yeah - reallllllyyy cheap to make too!

LabRat
08-01-2009, 01:24 PM
Hey - you dissing my Palm phone camera??? ;)

No no. That was my attempt at a reference to "Bill & Ted".


Yep - in the same boat - I have a 100 of those also from Roger! I'll try the new layout and let you know.

EDIT - After printing it out, I measured the holes at 1-11/32 (1.34375") which would explain why they appear too close together. I have a hunch that my printer may be scaling the drawing (it shouldn't be as far as I know) or that the PDF got munched a bit. Can you try
printing yours out and measuring to verify?



Will do when I get home. Could be scaling the pdf to the printable area of the page.
Did you check the parts placement on the boards you etched recently ? (Hopefully not a problem. )

LabRat
08-01-2009, 10:48 PM
More squishing... (well.. not much more).

Rotated the LED as per suggestion from Chris.
Moved the OPTO and JACK a smidge further north.

Overall board size should now be: 2.65 x 2.3

I'm attaching a PDF that I have "Scaled up" by 1.0418604651162790697674418604651 %

This should now print on Budude's printer with an hole center spacing of 1.4"

EDIT: A printout of the original (no scaling) direct from eagle to my Samsung - shows that spacing at approx 1 13/32" (falling just between the 6 & 7 16th marks). Which is 1.40625" (close 'nuff for me) It would have been nice to squish this down to within 2x3 so that I could get an even multiple boards from a standard 6x6 piece of copper. Perhaps a couple of these and one on the SimpleREN16's will fit on a single board... but that would be tomorrow. ;)

budude
08-01-2009, 11:28 PM
I'm attaching a PDF that I have "Scaled up" by 1.0418604651162790697674418604651 %

Hmm - I measured 1.0418604651162790697674418604652%... :p

I'll give it a try later - if all else fails, I'll print it at work on the HP Laserjet and measure again - that has been accurate for other work. I know what you mean about fitting stuff on the boards - I always seem to have an extra inch or so unused on the boards I'm etching and try to think of things to slap in there...

LabRat
08-01-2009, 11:42 PM
I could always send you the board file.. as you are using eagle as well.

PM me if you want it ( I don't want to post the board file until it fits.. to prevent someone grabbing the wrong file)

LabRat
08-02-2009, 09:11 AM
The more I look at that picture with the enclosure, the more I think there isn't enough clearance to get the DC input lines "into" that jack in the top right. Particularly as with the scaling added, it will result in shifting things further YET
to the right.

There are two options I'm considering:

Rotate the jack, so that the wires would enter direct from below.
Add more copper at the top, and then seat the jack further away from the right side of the board, directly ABOVE the screw hole.


Comments? Preferences? Better options?

LabRat
08-02-2009, 10:38 AM
Hopefully *FINAL* version... :rolleyes:


Pushed opto up another smidge, now RJ45 fits completely only the board.
Changed layout sizes for R9 thru R11. Now all the input resistors look the same.
Rotated the DC IN jack (see previous post)
SWAPPED PINS on the DC IN jack (allows for a much cleaner layout)
CORRECTED LABELS ON OUTPUT JACKS


Printed using scaling of: 1.0418604651162790697674418604652% ;)

budude
08-02-2009, 12:10 PM
OK - I think this last one is fine - it provides at least enough room as you get with the AC SSRs. What I would do is run the wires up underneath the board to the top of the box and lock them down with a wire clamp of some type and then run the wires down the right side. This would make sure they don't get yanked out.

I'll 'dis my camera this time - can't get a focused picture out of that thing - ah well - you can still make things out. The only other thing I might do is beef up the DC traces and especially the common run. There looks to be plenty of space to almost double them up (at least the common). I used an online calculator at: http://circuitcalculator.com/wordpress/2006/01/31/pcb-trace-width-calculator/ and if correct, the 50mil traces you have could carry 2.8A which is probably fine for the separate runs but not for the common. I entered 1oz copper for this so using 1/2oz would make things worse.

LabRat
08-02-2009, 09:17 PM
OK - I think this last one is fine - it provides at least enough room as you get with the AC SSRs. What I would do is run the wires up underneath the board to the top of the box and lock them down with a wire clamp of some type and then run the wires down the right side. This would make sure they don't get yanked out.


*IF* you're running the wires up and over the top, should the DC IN be rotated by 180 degrees, so that the terminals face the TOP of the board?
(Means tweaking the schematic back again, but that's a nobrainer)



I'll 'dis my camera this time - can't get a focused picture out of that thing - ah well - you can still make things out. The only other thing I might do is beef up the DC traces and especially the common run. There looks to be plenty of space to almost double them up (at least the common). I used an online calculator at: http://circuitcalculator.com/wordpress/2006/01/31/pcb-trace-width-calculator/ and if correct, the 50mil traces you have could carry 2.8A which is probably fine for the separate runs but not for the common. I entered 1oz copper for this so using 1/2oz would make things worse.

Done.. +V Up to .1, and beefed up the ground lines as well. I know that you were concerned about pad size of home etching, and I came across the following link that you (and others) may appreciate.

Using Eagle DRC to change default PAD sizes. (http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/tools/software/eagle/setting-all-pad-sizes/)
Just tweak the BOTTOM "MIN" pad size.. and presto.. the board is more home etch friendly.

Yet another version attached... (anyone else starting to tire of these ;) ?)
I'm going to be making 6 of these, and so "photo-resist" is looking more and more appealing (in order to get consistent results).

budude
08-02-2009, 10:06 PM
Nah - no need to change DC in - the wires will be loose enough to loop in and some folks may want to go straight in.

I figured there was a way to get those pad sizes set somehow... I had done it previously by manually editing the part and knew that couldn't be right... Thanks for that link it will save a lot of time and make for a better etch!

I've gotten pretty good results with the positive resist method although many swear by the toner transfer method. There's a kit you can buy that includes the toner transfer "paper" and a laminator. It's supposed to give much more consistent results than using your household iron. You're supposed to be able get smaller traces with photo resist but for most of the projects here, I don't think it matters much which one you use.

edit - btw - did you forget the attachment? I have rev 6... 100mil will get us to 4.7A give or take.

edit2 - One more thing (teehee) - you may want to place a pad at the hole locations or otherwise ensure there is a clear indication of where to drill. I found that the default "hole" from Eagle produces a very faint circle and sometimes it gets lost in the etch (makes for some VERY ugly drilling...). Of course this isn't needed for a board house since you just tell the machine where to drill but we humans need some help! Another nice thing about the toner transfer method is that you can make silkscreens - I may change over yet!

LabRat
08-09-2009, 07:50 PM
What you've been waiting for.. pictures of the home etched board. Not fully populated yet, still waiting on the parts from the DCSSR coop buy. But this gives a sense as to what it's going to look like.

EDIT: Just updating this. As per the earlier suggestion, I've reversed the DC IN jack on this proto-type (after the pictures were taken). There just wouldn't have been room to get the wires "IN" here, as well as the CHANNEL 1 output wires.

budude
08-10-2009, 01:35 AM
Assuming you went with the toner transfer method then? (guessing so since you have a silk screen - unless you're reaalllll handy with a Sharpie!). Looks good!

LabRat
08-10-2009, 09:00 AM
Assuming you went with the toner transfer method then? (guessing so since you have a silk screen - unless you're reaalllll handy with a Sharpie!). Looks good!

Yes. I've been looking at the "Photo" kits, but as I had these boards already I thought to use them up. Amazingly things went MUCH MUCH better this time around, so much so that I was willing to try getting "fancy" with the top silkscreen. I've still got enough boards here to do another 3 DCSSR's, and one more SIMPLE REN16. If things are still going smoothly, I will probably stick to toner transfer in order to save on $$.

In the future, I will try and cut the copper oversized, and snap it to the proper size after etching. Some of the "silkscreen" didn't work out well, as I think it was too near the edge of the board.

g2ktcf
08-10-2009, 09:07 AM
Yes. I've been looking at the "Photo" kits, but as I had these boards already I thought to use them up. Amazingly things went MUCH MUCH better this time around, so much so that I was willing to try getting "fancy" with the top silkscreen. I've still got enough boards here to do another 3 DCSSR's, and one more SIMPLE REN16. If things are still going smoothly, I will probably stick to toner transfer in order to save on $$.

In the future, I will try and cut the copper oversized, and snap it to the proper size after etching. Some of the "silkscreen" didn't work out well, as I think it was too near the edge of the board.

Yes, the edges will get you...if its not heating and pressing them properly thens it over heating a pressing....hard to do and you have to be very careful with them.

51fordf2
08-10-2009, 11:30 AM
For those of us who don't have Eagle, but want to build some DC SSR's, can you post a PDF of the traces, and the top screen?

Thanks,

Roger

LabRat
08-10-2009, 11:42 AM
For those of us who don't have Eagle, but want to build some DC SSR's, can you post a PDF of the traces, and the top screen?

Thanks,

Roger

Yes I will, but I'm waiting until I've proven that it actually WORKS. (in theory it should, as it's just laying out what others had done before me, but I'm kinda paranoid that someone might build these and then they are worthless)

51fordf2
08-13-2009, 11:13 AM
LabRat - at first I thought you were a Valley Girl...you know, LA Brat... JUST KIDDING!! I see things that way...

Anyway, any progress? I have a slew of portaflood coming, and wondered how this is coming. I have some PCB mount, DC relays, but they won't (I'm pretty darn sure) dim, and dimming would be nice...not necessary, but nice. I already have the enclosures, so I like yours, as it has kept the AT-200 in mind.

I guess the lesson here, is that everytime I bypass a group buy, because I don't think I'll use the items, I find I DO need them! Danged if you do, danged if you don't.

Thanks,

Roger

LabRat
08-13-2009, 04:03 PM
LabRat - at first I thought you were a Valley Girl...you know, LA Brat... JUST KIDDING!! I see things that way...

Anyway, any progress? I have a slew of portaflood coming, and wondered how this is coming. I have some PCB mount, DC relays, but they won't (I'm pretty darn sure) dim, and dimming would be nice...not necessary, but nice. I already have the enclosures, so I like yours, as it has kept the AT-200 in mind.

I guess the lesson here, is that everytime I bypass a group buy, because I don't think I'll use the items, I find I DO need them! Danged if you do, danged if you don't.

Thanks,

Roger

I've assembled as far as I can go, without the parts from the DCSSR coop. Everything "looks" good, and I guess I can release the files to you.. but with the disclaimer, that I haven't been able to test these as a "complete solution".

I'll try and generate the B&W pdf for you tonight.

LabRat
08-13-2009, 06:21 PM
Here they are... use at your own risk. ;)

51fordf2
08-13-2009, 08:29 PM
Uhhh....thank you....thank you very much....uh-huh-huh...

R

LabRat
08-13-2009, 09:07 PM
Make sure to do a paper copy first, as the last set of PDF's I sent out printed at a reduced scale on some printers. The holes at 1.4" apart, and you should be able to determine any required scaling from that.

Post pics if you succeed. :cool:

51fordf2
08-13-2009, 10:07 PM
Ill do...maybe tomorrow or Saturday, have to make some other boards, anyway.

Thanks again,

r

Greg in Canby
08-13-2009, 10:29 PM
I guess the lesson here, is that everytime I bypass a group buy, because I don't think I'll use the items, I find I DO need them! Danged if you do, danged if you don't.
I'm learning that exact lesson this week . . . shazam ! !

budude
08-20-2009, 11:06 AM
Hey LabRat - do you mind posting the final Eagle files also? I have a roundabout way of creating my transparencies for my board exposure/development. I export a Gerber file and then use a Gerber viewer (GerbMagic - free!) to create an image that I insert into Word. This allows me to put multiple files on one sheet with good resolution. I've tried PDF->image widgets but have not gotten the best results that way.

If you are planning to send your files to a board house many of them want Gerbers anyway so it's a good way to check things.

I'm putting aside my Ren16Simple/DC for now and will stick with separate DCSSRs - just out of time...

Thanks!

ErnieHorning
08-20-2009, 01:30 PM
Hey LabRat - do you mind posting the final Eagle files also?What would really be great is if you would add this to the Wiki and add the PDF, GBR and ZIP up the Eagle files. Hunting for these files in the forum six months later can be a bit difficult.

LabRat
08-20-2009, 01:37 PM
What would really be great is if you would add this to the Wiki and add the PDF, GBR and ZIP up the Eagle files. Hunting for these files in the forum six months later can be a bit difficult.

I was reluctant to put the files there until I had "proven" that they work. I'm more than happy to share the files. Once the parts from the DCSSR parts co-op arrive, I will be able to complete my testing. I'm just wary of someone ploughing ahead and building up a half-dozen units, only to find out that I messed up the placement of *something*.

LabRat
08-20-2009, 11:22 PM
Eagle files (and the PDF's submitted here earlier) can now be found in the File Library (under Copper/DCSSR).

budude
08-24-2009, 09:38 PM
Thanks! I got itchy and decided to etch out some boards! I'm not sure this is the easiest way to do it - but I needed multiple boards per page to maximize my photo-resist board real estate. I've never had any luck exporting the image with Eagle - it never comes out the right size for some reason. I've also tried some PDF-2-JPG type programs but had the same problem.

So - - what I did was to create a Gerber file and then used GerbMagic (free) to view the output. With this you can duplicate the image multiple times on the page and rotate as necessary. This allowed me to get eight boards within a 6x9 copper board dimension at full resolution. The only thing I forgot to do (again!) was to thicken up the dimension lines and place a via on the mounting holes. The existing line widths pretty much wash away during the etch process - hence my Sharpie lines...

edit - added pic of etched boards.

budude
08-29-2009, 04:30 PM
Well - even with the most horrendous drilling job ever (btw - 16-pin sockets are not very forgiving...) I put together my first LabRat DCSSR and can say it works great. I found that if you use these with a solid 5V source that you will want to pull the regulator and jumper the IN/OUT on it to provide a full 5V to the opto/MOSFET side of the circuit. There was just a bit too much drop with the regulator. Obviously if I was using a higher input voltage like 12V, I would keep it in.

So in all - I have a Renard 16 Simple (I think "RenEZ" is a better name!) driving a LabRat DCSSR driving Frank's LED Flood Strip - a 100% DIYC setup for sure! :mrgreen:

Congrats LabRat on the layout - looks good to me! I do have one channel (#2) that isn't working yet but it's not due to a layout issue anyway.

LabRat
08-30-2009, 11:03 AM
Kewl....

Time to go and etch up some more in anticipation of the coops parts arriving.

:cool:

51fordf2
09-09-2009, 01:00 AM
Got my parts this morning, and my first LR DC SSR working this afternoon! Works great, used it to light up my portaflood. Very impressed, and it's a fairly easy etch. Drilling the holes off the Eagle/Gerber Magic trick, is a little rough, but after ironing the toner in place, I took an Exacto knife, and scratched off a little toner where the holes go, so that I'd have a "guide" for the drill bits after etching. I have 10 boards etched, but 4 are going to Greg in Canby, and he'll be putting them together. So, I only have 5 to go!

Fit perfectly in the AT-200 - I heartily recommend these, if you want to home-etch, and I would sure like to see them as a co-op in the future. Talked to LabRat, and he might make a few changes, maybe add the TO-92 regulator, but it fit's the TO-220 just fine, as long as you get the orientation right. For those who want to know, you just make sure the flat of the TO-92 goes toward where the tab would be, on the TO-220.

Thanks again, Andrew!

Roger

LabRat
09-09-2009, 01:09 AM
Thanks,

But credit for the original board design to John Wilson (aka wjohn).

I just did a layout for TA-200 compatability, and for use at home. Nothing too exciting there... now if you want a PIC based controller to drive your LedTricks?? :cool:




Got my parts this morning, and my first LR DC SSR working this afternoon! Works great, used it to light up my portaflood. Very impressed, and it's a fairly easy etch. Drilling the holes off the Eagle/Gerber Magic trick, is a little rough, but after ironing the toner in place, I took an Exacto knife, and scratched off a little toner where the holes go, so that I'd have a "guide" for the drill bits after etching. I have 10 boards etched, but 4 are going to Greg in Canby, and he'll be putting them together. So, I only have 5 to go!

Fit perfectly in the AT-200 - I heartily recommend these, if you want to home-etch, and I would sure like to see them as a co-op in the future. Talked to LabRat, and he might make a few changes, maybe add the TO-92 regulator, but it fit's the TO-220 just fine, as long as you get the orientation right. For those who want to know, you just make sure the flat of the TO-92 goes toward where the tab would be, on the TO-220.

Thanks again, Andrew!

Roger

51fordf2
09-09-2009, 01:42 PM
Thanks, John, also...

R

budude
09-09-2009, 01:49 PM
oops - never mind...

Greg in Canby
09-10-2009, 12:12 AM
OK then . . . a heartfelt thank you to all ya'all; wjohn, LabRat, and Roger (51fordf2).

g2ktcf
09-10-2009, 12:41 AM
Well - even with the most horrendous drilling job ever (btw - 16-pin sockets are not very forgiving...) I put together my first LabRat DCSSR and can say it works great. I found that if you use these with a solid 5V source that you will want to pull the regulator and jumper the IN/OUT on it to provide a full 5V to the opto/MOSFET side of the circuit. There was just a bit too much drop with the regulator. Obviously if I was using a higher input voltage like 12V, I would keep it in.

So in all - I have a Renard 16 Simple (I think "RenEZ" is a better name!) driving a LabRat DCSSR driving Frank's LED Flood Strip - a 100% DIYC setup for sure! :mrgreen:

Congrats LabRat on the layout - looks good to me! I do have one channel (#2) that isn't working yet but it's not due to a layout issue anyway.

WATCH IT .... that EZ logo is MINE :D hehehehe