Problem With My SSRs

[Ratmandu]

I decided that if i want to do lights this year, I better get started soon, so last night I worked out a schematic and board in Eagle for a 2 channel SSR that would fit in a single plastic outlet box and control each socket. I etched the board, drilled, and populated it. Then got it all set up, grabbed a breadboard and my battery pack, and proceeded to test each channel. put my multimeter leads in the 1st socket, hooked up power, and it works. moved the leads to the other, and it worked there too. Now, seeing as how I am seeing 120 volts on each socket, I plug in a strand of lights to each socket. Test the first one, It works fine. test the second one, and it wont light up. I switch the lights around, 1st one works fine, second doesnt light up.

So I put the multimeter leads in the socket on the back of the lights, turn it on, no voltage. I unplug the lights, put the leads right into the socket, turn it on, and theres 120 volts.

Then im thinking maybe the plug on the lights isnt connected right, i test continuity, they both go straight through.

Right now I'm so confused... Heres the schematic and board. Maybe someone else can help me figure this out.

P.S. I'm new here, But I hope I have found a new place to visit regularly. :)


EDIT: Oh, And ignore the TIC225S... Im using the BTA08-400B's Just needed something with the right footprint

[Dan Ross]

here is a link to a how-to for the 4 channel SSR co op board. There are some differences between your setup and the one in the how-to. I'm not sure if the differences matter without looking at the data sheets for the parts.

http://computerchristmas.com/?link=how_to&HowToId=68

[P. Short]

The schematic and board layout look fine, seems more like a wiring problem between the incoming AC, the PCB and the socket. One thing to double check are the shorting tabs on the sides of the receptacle.

--

Phil

[cobraman44]

Is that catch 22? The 180 ohm resister should be going to AC in. Otherwise the triac has to be on to supply power to the opto.

[Ratmandu]

I have removed the tab on the hot side, and have each hooked up to either HOT1 and HOT2, with a small 5A button-breaker attached to BREAK and BREAK1, and the AC hot wire attached to HOTIN. I have double and triple checked all of my connections, but nothing is standing out at me.

I think ill put it away for a bit, work on my AVR controller board im thinking of making.

EDIT: Hmm, I don't know what I did... but it is now working perfectly. went and got another string of lights, plugged both in, and supplied the 5v and grounded each one, both light up.

I'm still scratching my head on this one though.

Well, At least the magic smoke is still in there.

[Wayne J]

I took a coop board and basically cut it in two to come up with the same thing you have done. This it if anyone ever needs it, 1"X2". I never tweaked it to be smaller, but it can go some more.

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/3526/screenhunter007vq8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[scharbon]

A silly observation.

The TRIACs in both of these versions (Waynes and RATMANDUs) are mounted backwards from what the silkscreen shows on both Sean's and wjohn's boards. Are your traces "backward" too so that the TRIACS are okay or is that the problem?

Steve

[Wayne J]

Yes, mine are flipped intentionally and traces are corrected for it.

[Doug-in-the-woods]

Sounds like a string of lights is having a problem staying connected.
Could be the plug has a broken wire within the plastic coating.
could be a fuse in the plug?
just some thoughts as sometims the simplest things that go wrong are the hardest to solve.

[Ratmandu]

Well, I've tried 3 other stings in that plug sofar, and they all worked. And that string was brand new, I took it around the house and tried it in about 4 other sockets, and it worked in all of them, but just not in that socket.

Thats ok though, all the others i've tried in that socket work, So ill just have to remember lol