View Full Version : Stripping Powder Coat From Wire Frames

03-21-2009, 12:28 PM
I got a set of four wireframes that have white powder coat on them. The metal and powder coat is completely rusted as you can see in the pictures. I want to strip the powder coat off and re-paint them all.

Do you have any advice as to the most efficient way to do this? i tried some 120 grit sandpaper, and it took quite a while.

03-21-2009, 01:12 PM
I think a sandblaster would be the easiest. Or you could use a coarse wire brush wheel on a drill.

Wayne J
03-21-2009, 01:31 PM
I think a sandblaster would be the easiest. Or you could use a coarse wire brush wheel on a drill.

I second that.
Check around with any welding/fabrication shops, they most likely have one and can throw that in with the next batch of parts they do.

03-21-2009, 04:02 PM
I have used a product called Aircraft stripper, this removes paint of all types, and works amazing. It is a little pricey, but it does come in aresol, and in a liquid form.

03-21-2009, 04:55 PM
Stripper would work, but it wouldn't do much to the rust.

03-21-2009, 05:59 PM
Dad and I have a powder coat rig and used it to do a lot of powder coating on the planes and such. When we messed up on one part we tried aircraft paint stripper and found it to not be very effective. Powder Coat is a plastic coating so it does not act like paint with the chemicals. Powder coat is often used on mixing arms and vats in chemical companies for some harsh chemicals because it will stand up and paint will not.

It does mess with the coating but not effective with what we use anyways. I agree that a sandblaster would most likely be your best course of action.


03-21-2009, 08:24 PM
sand blasting would probably be the easiest however eastwoods co has a powder coat stripper here is a link: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=16495&itemType=PRODUCT

03-21-2009, 09:44 PM
I agree, sandblasting would be the best way. If you cant find anyone with a blasting cabinet to do it for you check with some auto body shops they usually have a blasting cabinet. Last ditch effort I have used on much smaller scale is, use a propane torch to burn off the powder coat (do this outside in well ventilated area and dont heat the wire to much or you will change its temper). Use some 120 grit sandpaper to get rid of the charred powdercoat, it will just flake off after it is burned. Spray on a rust converter like "extends", when that is dry use two or three coats of rustoleum. Not perfect or easy but it works.

03-21-2009, 10:09 PM
Did somebody mention sandblasting?? Send it my way, we'll "Git'er done" for you!



Kidding aside, sandblasting would be best. You can buy a cheap hand-held sandblaster at Harbor Freight, used for "spot blasting" for around $15.00 if you have a compressor. You MUST protect yourself - the silicate in sand can do lasting and permanent damage to your lungs!! Do a little research, make sure you understand all the ramifications. That's my full hood, and respirator on the grass to the left in the picture. Still scares me! I also have a cabinet, that I can get an entire bumper or door in, inside the shop. But, if you have someplace around you, they probably would only charge a little bit, to blast it for you. Since I have a compressor, I would get the little mini-blaster:

Harbor Freight Spot Blaster (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95793)

When you are there, on their website, do a search for keyword "sandblaster" - there are many other suitable blasters that they have, one for about $30, rather self contained. A bag of playground sand will work, but again, use caution...

Keep us posted...


03-21-2009, 10:37 PM
They have a process for use on finer metal here in Canada called hot tanking where they use hot acid to burn off paint.Works great and did a great job on my reindeer when I stripped them last year.I did 4 reindeer and it only cost me $20.00..It leaves a smoother finish then blasting plus all the cheap welds were left intact.Something you gotta be very careful with when media blasting like rogers is doing with his frame.The welds are thicker and less chance of damage due to the sand blast but the smaller and finer welds of a wire frame (which are garbage welds in the first place and are really just tack welds done bad) they can come apart rather easily.I rewelded mine where I used to work so for me it wasn't an issue...Let us know which way you go and how they turn out.

03-21-2009, 10:46 PM
Hot tanking is great, if you can find a place that still does it, especially if they'll electostatically prime it for you. But they are few and far between no in the states, because of the environment. I tried to find a place to do my cab. The spot blaster doesn't do much to the welds and if it does, they needed attention , anyway! And believe me that '51 frame of mine, needed some "tlc"...


03-21-2009, 11:03 PM
I would just wire brush it, use a rust converter, prime and paint. IMHO, Stripping down to bare metal is overkill.