8A Triacs - any interest?

[51fordf2]

Hi, all...I have a possibility to purchase triacs, at a bit of a reduced rate. These are Littelfuse Q2008L5 Triac, 200V 8A, 50-50-50 mA, TO220 case.

They would be $.50 each, up to 500, then $.40 each. The cheapest I managed to find them, they were about a buck, each. So, this is a 50% savings. There may be other places out there, cheaper, but I haven't found them. He has almost 10,000 of them.

I had an electronics Engineer look at our SSR circuit, and he said they would be just fine. I know a lot of people use 2 or 3 amp triacs, but I also know that running a higher current triac, helps keep them cooler at lower currents.

Hopefully, the spec sheet will work here. Again, it's a Q2008L5, just like the Q2008L4, but 50 ma instead of 25.

I'm relatively new here, so hope I'm doing this right. I will be buying several hundred, and I'd like to know if there are others interested, to help bring the price down, or just take advantage.

Roger

[TERBObob]

I would be interested , but not for a couple of hundred .
Any chance of getting them at a lesser count ( for us buying them from you ) ?
If yes , is there any minimum amount ? ( I mean , of course , I am not referring to one or two's ... LOL )

[Warlock]

I'd be interested in about 60 of em...Let me know if they will work in a ren 16..
Thanks for offering this deal..

[eswets]

If the resistor value doesn't change, I might be interested in 100 or so.

[51fordf2]

I would be interested , but not for a couple of hundred .
Any chance of getting them at a lesser count ( for us buying them from you ) ?
If yes , is there any minimum amount ? ( I mean , of course , I am not referring to one or two's ... LOL )

Those are just the numbers he shot to me, for pricing - 100 to 500 are $.50, 500 up are $.40. I would imagine he'd break a little at 1000, too. He has bunches of them. And no, there's no lower limit. I'm looking at interest, if there's enough, then I can manage a buy, although I was here last year, I didn't join, until I started working on my lights, so I don't meet all the rules. But, figured I'd ask, and then go from there. I mean, I'm buying 100 anyway, and if there is enough interest to take it to 500, then the price will be better for everyone. As I said, he's sitting on bunches of them, and he sent me a handful for testing. The attachment is the schematic I sent, and his engineer said it was just fine:




I'd be interested in about 60 of em...Let me know if they will work in a ren 16..
Thanks for offering this deal..

I don't know - as above, you'd have to compare it to your set up, look at the attachment. Or, I'm sure some of the much-more knowledgable will step in, and verify if they will work or not...

Roger

[Warlock]

Not a biggy...I've loked into the speci sheet and it matches what the part numbers are saying..So it would work for any of them actually..Well as far as I've been told...So sure I'd be in for a smaller amount as I don't need 100's just yet but 60 of em will do me just fine for now...More will be ordered later on for sure..

[eswets]

51ford,
Find out the total of triacs people might want, then low ball this guy. If he is just sitting on them he might want to get rid of them. 1000+ for $.25? Never hurts to try. If you test them and they work, and if they are cheap enough, I might take get several hundred.

[Warlock]

I agree with Eswets...Give it a shot....The cheaper they are the more I'll buy as well...Right now I'm on a limited budget for toys..

[51fordf2]

That's rather what I did, to get the prices I did. I might be able to get it down to .30 or 35, with 1000 promised. I won't try until I reach that magic number, though.

The two I got work fine. These came out of a factory that shut down, so they are all new. He also has diacs, and a bunch of other goodies.

I'll give it a few more days, and see if the numbers get to a feasible level.

Roger

[g2ktcf]

If you can get this to work, I take a 100 now (maybe 200 if the price comes down some more)

Thanks,
Chris

[Macrosill]

For everyone to keep in mind, the 8 amp rating is with the use of a properly sized heatsink with proper air flow. You could buy a 15 amp triac but you can not run it at 15 amps or even 7 amps without the proper heatsink. The usual story around these parts is to purchase the triac that is the cheapest at the time. There was no other reason for the 4 or 8 amp ratings in the BOMs.

In looking at the Spec Sheet I do not see a Q2008L5 listed. I do not see that number referenced anywhere in that sheet. I do not see a Q2008L4 either, I do see a Q2008LH4, is that the part number that we should be referring to? Also which package are you getting? I know you stated the 220 but there is a 220AB that is isolated and a 220AB that is non-isolated. If we should be referencing the Q2008LH4 then it is an isolated tab. Please make sure it is the isolated package, otherwise the tabs of the triac will be electrified.

[51fordf2]

This is what I got:


Yes they are isolated. In the dimmers we simply eyeleted them to the faceplate which served as a heat sink as you can see when you open up a dimmer. (I also have eyelet machines and eyelets for sale, and I have lots of other triacs up to 25 amp 500v.

I got my answer from Littlefuse. These 8 amp triacs Q2008L5 are the same as the Q2008L4 except;
Q2008L4 has Igt max of 25mA
Q2008L5 has Igt max of 50mA...so a 25mA gate can replace a 50mA
gate part, but not necessarily a 50mA will replace a 25mA....depending
on available gate drive.

Also, here's the Digi-key page for the Q2008L5:

Q2008L5 (http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/992602-triac-200v-8a-to220-q2008l5.html)

I also took a meter to the leads - the tab is indeed isolated from all three leads. My other ones, that aren't isolated, show continuity.

I also found an ad, for them, on sale for packages of 500, for $1.24: Sales Ad (http://www.aiconsol.com/q2008l5-littelfuse.html)

I don't have a board built, nor a MOC3010 yet, so I can't put one together. My local "electronics" store doesn't have much for hobbyists anymore, so until I can get a 3010, I won't be able to play with it. Guess I should get one ordered, unless someone has an extra laying around.

Roger

[51fordf2]

Or, if someone else wants to try it, I can send them one. I have two of them...

Roger

[dnesci]

This is what I got:


I don't have a board built, nor a MOC3010 yet, so I can't put one together. My local "electronics" store doesn't have much for hobbyists anymore, so until I can get a 3010, I won't be able to play with it. Guess I should get one ordered, unless someone has an extra laying around.

Roger

Our BOM calls for a MOC3023. I'm not familiar with the 3010. Just thought you'd like to know.

[51fordf2]

Our BOM calls for a MOC3023. I'm not familiar with the 3010. Just thought you'd like to know.

Ah, I see...the 3023 is random-phase, plus a little higher voltage, but I think the random-phase is the key - that's for dimming, correct? I think it would work the same, the offer still holds. I'm using DIO cards, for on/off only (until the Helix is up!), so the 3010 is sufficient for me.

As I said, I'm sure the electronically enlightened could step in, here...

Roger

http://www.crbest.com/christmas/vixenlogo.gif

192 channels of Christmas Bliss...well, soon....VERY soon...

[wvengineer]

Roger a small correction

http://www.aiconsol.com/q2008l5-littelfuse.html
Littelfuse Q2008L5 are not 500 for $1.24

They are priced each sold in Packages = 500
which means that they want $620.00 for 500 of them....

They are little tricky on how they have it worded....




The Original SSR uses the BTA08-400B and has a max Igt of 50 Miliamps
Q2008L5 Igt is also 50ma max

The 180 ohm current limit resistor should be fine.. in theory should be no different..





The first guy that quoted on for .30 .40 .50 each looks like your best bet.
I might be interested in a hundred or more so....

Tim

[51fordf2]

Tim...I knew that, guess I should have worded it differently - I was pointing out that $.35 to $.50 was a good deal, and that the other one, to GET the $1.24 price/ea., you HAD to buy 500. Mea Culpa, I guess - made sense when I wrote it...

Thanks for the info on feasibility...

Slight hitch - It's on hold right now, I might not meet the rules for group buy, so not sure how I can handle it - hopefully, a little glitch...

And I did get a commitment of $.35 each, at 1,000...

And, I got the MOC3010 previously mentioned, right off the link in the Wiki, direct latch SSR, to CC...I KNEW I wasn't going crazy - that's as far as I got, because I won't be doing any dimming, at least for a while...

Thanks, Tim.


Roger a small correction

http://www.aiconsol.com/q2008l5-littelfuse.html
Littelfuse Q2008L5 are not 500 for $1.24

They are priced each sold in Packages = 500
which means that they want $620.00 for 500 of them....

They are little tricky on how they have it worded....

The Original SSR uses the BTA08-400B and has a max Igt of 50 Miliamps

Q2008L5 Igt is also 50ma max

The 180 ohm current limit resistor should be fine.. in theory





The first guy that quoted on for .30 .40 .50 each looks like your best bet.
I might be interested in a hundred or so....

Tim

[wvengineer]

hopefully something can be worked out....

I don't meet the requirements neither... plus with my job
its is so crazy for myself to arrange anytghing, I have never
organized a group buy on this site but I know its not easy
the guys that do set them up much thanks go to them all...






The best price I can get for the BTA08-400BRG is .54 at qty of +250
at Allied Electronics... I know my rep can give me better prices
than what is quoted on their site. not sure when they are going to get a new batch look like their qty is low...

We use Allied and Newark Electronics at work for everything and been
dealing with them for 7 years
The link for the triac at the Allied site, Click here (http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=2480341&MPN=BTA08-400BRG&R=2480341&SEARCH=2480341&DESC=BTA08-400BRG)

[51fordf2]

We use Allied and Newark Electronics at work for everything and been
dealing with them for 7 years

I was very familiar with Allied years ago (MANY!), when I first started playing with electronics. Just got their new catalog in the mail, sent my daughter the 3 blocks to the Post Office. Her arm hurt when she got back - a full 3"'s thick, and heavy! Man, I remember when it was 3/4" thick...

R

[wvengineer]

oh yea.. its a tree or two.... They sent me 4 2009 catalogs. i keep one at my home, office and one at the transmitter.... The newark books are just as big...

[eswets]

Im in on that price, lets try to get that glitch worked out.

[dj merritt]

will these work on the ren 24

[wjohn]

Can you please check that they are TAB isolated.... Live Tabs are potentially lethal in some designs, and may be the reason they are being off loaded.

[rstehle]

And will they work for dimming LED's?

[dnesci]

Can you please check that they are TAB isolated.... Live Tabs are potentially lethal in some designs, and may be the reason they are being off loaded.

Accoriding to the spec sheet in post #12, they are isolated tabs.

I would be interested in 50 to 100 as well

[51fordf2]

To settle a little confusion - these triacs are coming from a company that closed, that built dimmers for overhead lighting. Anywhere from 600 watts to 2000 watts. They also have larger triacs for the higher capability dimmers.

The triacs will work for dimming.

The triac does have an isolated tab - the manufacturer used the tab to mount the triac to the case of the dimmer, to double as a heatsink. I received several of the dimmers, and have sacrificed one, to verify this. I also checked for continuity between the tab and all leads, and it's infinity.

Now to the glitch...although I have been following all the forums, here, Planet Christmas, DIYLightinganimations, Computer Christmas, I didn't "join" many until I decided to take the plunge, this year. I have been running music-controlled lights through an inexpensive 4-channel color organ, which was relatively nice, especially in the small town we live in - heck, just to have electricity alone is a luxury here! :razz: I already was broadcasting, and had a fairly ornate set up, so I decided to go ahead, and put together a computerized display. So, I don't follow the rule for group buys of being on the forum for a year. Rules are rules, and I understand that. I wish I had read the rules closer instead of glancing over them - I was trying to see if there was enough interest to even pursue buying a large quantity of these triacs. I have handled group buys in both my antique truck forums, and my radio controlled airplane forums. So I know what is involved. But, as it's winter, I can't work on my 1951 Ford F2 (http://www.crbest.com/bodywork) truck, since my shop is not heated (yet), and I figured I'd have time to do this. Macrosill did a database search, to try and find any indication I had been here, last year, which is several computers and internet providers ago. It ain't there. I'm waiting on him to give me an answer on where I can go from here. I regret it happened like this, but don't want to endanger my status on the forums. Possibilities are giving out the supplier if I can get him to "honor" a discount for anyone mentioning DIYChristmas, but that would mean everyone would pay the individual shipping - I can ship 50-100 in a large envelope for about a buck, where most businesses charge $5.00 or better for the same.

Anyway, we'll have to see where it goes from here...

Roger

http://www.crbest.com/christmas/vixenlogo.gif

192 Channels of Christmas Bliss soon...VERY soon!!

[51fordf2]

I have decided to move this off-site, per rule 20 on the rules (funny, I can read and understand schematics, but not all the rules all the time!! :p )

Moderator, please lock this thread, and I can re-post when I get the site prepared, per rule 20.

Thanks,

Roger

[P. Short]

I'm locking the thread, unless someone else beats me to it. However, I have a few technical comments on this matter, and am starting a new thread in another forum.