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g2ktcf
12-01-2008, 05:21 PM
Okay,

I started out to put my C7/C9s on my roof when I realized that I would not have the power to run them all. I decide to put mini's up instead. However, mini's are terrible at staying straight. Does anyone else put mini's on the roof ridges? Do you force them to be straight?

Thanks,
Chris...struggling to get all my lights up!

Dellboy999
12-01-2008, 07:48 PM
I am planning to use garden tie wire and then loop it twice around the strand, twice around the bulb, then twice around the stand to make mine stand up.

I think I have about 1000 bulbs to do, busy times ahead .....

Would love to hear of quicker better ways as well

piesrule58
12-01-2008, 09:41 PM
I use strips of corflute (the plastic sheets they make For Sale signs out of) approx 1" wide. I punch holes along the length just big enough to take the lights and then I attach them to the roof. Keeps everything nice and straight.

ron d
12-01-2008, 10:49 PM
crown staples and strips of 1/4" by 1" wood. built my window frames similar to that and it wouldnt take much to hold thep up just 2 nails or screws.paint the wood to match color of the house or facia.

g2ktcf
12-02-2008, 08:16 AM
I use strips of corflute (the plastic sheets they make For Sale signs out of) approx 1" wide. I punch holes along the length just big enough to take the lights and then I attach them to the roof. Keeps everything nice and straight.


And where would you get corflute?? :rolleyes:

Photovor
12-02-2008, 08:32 AM
Corofulte, AKA Coroplast. Most sign companies sell them. Try www.Signwarehouse.com shipping is pricey.

g2ktcf
12-02-2008, 08:52 AM
Looks like I can buy lots of it around the Houston area. Thanks for the Help! It will be a lot cheaper that my other options!

Chris

omzig
12-02-2008, 09:16 AM
I have also seen Corflute/Coroplast/Corrugated plastic at craft stores, as well as Holcomb's (may be regional).

Rocketman4
12-03-2008, 11:06 PM
I didn't do the ridge this year but in the past I used the larger sized paper clips approx. 11/4" long. The mini will fit in the double u end and the other end can be slid under the shinge. Use a little caution these do conduct electricity, use GFCI protection.

NogginBoink
12-05-2008, 06:11 PM
I use mini's on my roofline and do do a darned thing to keep 'em straight. They still look darned good.

toodle_pipsky
12-05-2008, 06:58 PM
I don't do anything to keep them straight either. Seemed like a whole bunch of extra work to me. I just bought extra long strings and doubled/trippled them over for roof and windows so it's just a big cluster of lights - hides any sections that might droop a bit.

WakeFan
12-05-2008, 10:01 PM
This is what I did and how it turned out. I used a 5/4 x 4 vinyl trim board. I ripped it in half and drilled holes to push the lights in snug. I figured it would take a little time, but it actually took a lot of time. I think if I counted it up, it would be between 1.5 - 2 hrs per section. I had 17 sections counting windows. The vinyl boards are usually expensive, but I salvaged them from where I work. A thinner board I believe would have been easier.


2759


2760

Wayne J
12-05-2008, 10:49 PM
This is what I did and how it turned out. I used a 5/4 x 4 vinyl trim board. I ripped it in half and drilled holes to push the lights in snug. I figured it would take a little time, but it actually took a lot of time. I think if I counted it up, it would be between 1.5 - 2 hrs per section. I had 17 sections counting windows. The vinyl boards are usually expensive, but I salvaged them from where I work. A thinner board I believe would have been easier.


It may have taken some time, but the results are very nice!! Would like to see some more detail on this.

WakeFan
12-05-2008, 11:29 PM
Thank you. I think it looks good too, but it did delay my lights a few days. It will be a lot easier next year.

I measured my roof line and divided it into sections 14-18ft. I used two ripped boards to make up each sections(easier to store). I figured my spacing say 84in / 49 which would give me 50 sections per board. I marked my sections and drilled a hole on the lines and then 2 holes in between(3 in the 1st space). Some lights required 21/64 and some 23/64. This year's Target lights used 23/64 and they were really tight. Last year's Target and this year's Lowes used the 21/64. I used needle nose pliers to push them in. Some went by hand, but most needed some extra help. I put the sections up by using plastic gutter hangers and eye bolts on the gutter sections. On the eves I drilled holes to hang on a 3" drywall screw. On the roof, I used clips again and attached a few wires here and there to the clips. It stayed with that cold front that came through last weekend(about 30-40mph winds). I really didn't worry about perfect spacing or centering when I drilled, I just got it as close as possible. 5100 holes later, I got er done!