Cheap jameco.com Triac $0.25 for 100+ == 4 amps / 200 Volts

[stempile]

This is what I have ordered / tested and used last year:

Jameco Part#: 140425
Desc: TRIAC,2N6071A,4Amp,200Volt

Unit Cost (US):
1+ = $0.29
10+ = $0.27
100+ = $0.25

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=140425

The last magazine I got showed free shipping on orders over $80 until the middle of Aug.

[wjohn]

Matt

that is a very good price!

[jstlucas]

This is what I have ordered / tested and used last year:

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=140425


Are these plug-in compatible with the coop ssr boards that were done earlier in the year, that you know of?

[stempile]

As far as I know there shouldn't be any problems. I don't have any boards from that specific co-op. It does however work fine in the PCBs from this design:

http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=4_Channel_SSROZ_Assembly_Instructi ons

ms

[Wayne J]

They are the same board design and parts.
:)

[bonuts]

Are they dimmable?

[Wayne J]

Are they dimmable?


Yes, both are dimmable.

8)

[P. Short]

It's the opto-isolator that determines whether the SSR is dimmable, not the triac.

--

Phil

[stempile]

My display last year was dimming with the use of the Horning Dimmer with these specific triacs being driven by these opto-isolators:

http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=419

Jameco save a bundle in the SSR part of my display. Also got free shipping.

ms

[grages]

My display last year was dimming with the use of the Horning Dimmer with these specific triacs being driven by these opto-isolators:

http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=419

Jameco save a bundle in the SSR part of my display. Also got free shipping.

ms

Matt (or any one else),

My only question is the limits the 4 amp triac places on the number of strings of lights that can be used. (the Coop parts list an 8 amp triac) I just have not done this before and I am looking for guidance.

Most of the time I will only have one or two strings of 100 connected to each channel.

The prices are great and they have RJ45's at a better price also.

Shawn

[P. Short]

If it is a TO220 package, it should be good for 1A (or slightly over) without a heatsink. The typical string of 100 minilights is 1/3A, although the Target energy-saving lights is about 1/6A. So you should be able to easily get 3-6 strings per SSR.

--

Phil

[stempile]

As Phil pointed out many times, you can get a lot done with 2-4 amps. I didn't come close last year to maxing out the triacs. Also I did put heat sinks on them only because it was easy. While running the show I checked the temp several times and never noticed any significant heat.

Jameco often has better prices, but that comes at a much more limited selection. Also Jameco's customer web site isn't as featured as mousers... But for me the shipping is often free with promotions and since I live close to a DC I get stuff over night most of the time!!

ms

[Doug-in-the-woods]

I found some on Ebay that are supposed to be a direct cross?
http://www.datasheet4u.com/html/T/1/0/T1013DH_STMicroelectronics.pdf.html
T1006MJ
I paid $29 including shipping for 100 triacs.
got in mail yesterday.
Also found lots of leds on Ebay really cheap.

[P. Short]

That part number doesn't appear in that datasheet.

--

Phil

[grages]

If it is a TO220 package, it should be good for 1A (or slightly over) without a heatsink. The typical string of 100 minilights is 1/3A, although the Target energy-saving lights is about 1/6A. So you should be able to easily get 3-6 strings per SSR.

--

Phil


As Phil pointed out many times, you can get a lot done with 2-4 amps. I didn't come close last year to maxing out the triacs. Also I did put heat sinks on them only because it was easy. While running the show I checked the temp several times and never noticed any significant heat.

Jameco often has better prices, but that comes at a much more limited selection. Also Jameco's customer web site isn't as featured as mousers... But for me the shipping is often free with promotions and since I live close to a DC I get stuff over night most of the time!!

ms

Thanks Phil and Matt,

That was what I was looking for, but before I spent a couple of hundred dollars I wanted some sort of confirmation.

Shawn

[Doug-in-the-woods]

I was concerned as to cross reference as well.The best I could come up with is the T1006MJ is a sensitive gate triac
It turns on at 6 ma, is an isolated tab. voltage?
this link is for some device called a SC4000e. On page 6 it gives specifications and the BTA08-600 triac crosses with the T1006MJ
Best I found. There is another Ebay seller selling same for a little less but dosn't have the large quanities (only 2 cents or so per) but he has LOTS of LEDs(100 for $1.99)
At .29 per triac it brings down the cost of an SSR consiberably lower


http://www.premier-solutions.biz/User%20Guides/NJD/SC4000e.pdf

[bonuts]

As Phil pointed out many times, you can get a lot done with 2-4 amps. I didn't come close last year to maxing out the triacs. Also I did put heat sinks on them only because it was easy.

Are these triacs the isolated tab type (think that's what it's called). Basically can you make 1 heat sink that bridges all four triacs? Thanks.

[dvanteslaar]

Thanks for the post, Matt - that IS a great price! I have to buy quite a few of these little guys in th very near future (AFTER I finish correcting the issue with my LEDTRIKS panel :shock: *sigh*).

David

[stempile]

As Phil pointed out many times, you can get a lot done with 2-4 amps. I didn't come close last year to maxing out the triacs. Also I did put heat sinks on them only because it was easy.

Are these triacs the isolated tab type (think that's what it's called). Basically can you make 1 heat sink that bridges all four triacs? Thanks.

Last year all of my triacs were heat sinked together with one heat sink.

ms

[Macrosill]

Isolated tab triacs have nothing to do with using a common heatsink unless you are powering the pcb with multiple circuits. The reason we use isolated tab triacs is so the tab does not become "hot" with electricity when it is turned on. Otherwise your heatsink will become 'Hot" and could short out on anything it touches or worse yet shock the user.

Please make sure you use isolated tab triacs, no matter what the cost is. Christmas is the happiest time of the year, lets keep it that way!

One more note, I just looked at the data sheet and it appears as though it is a isolated tab but it does not specifically indicate that, I am basing this on the fact that the tab is not indicated as a terminal.

Also the gate is on the opposite side of the standard triacs we use and design the pcbs for. We designed them for a TO-220AB package but these are a TO-225AA package. You will need to reverse these triacs when placed on the pcb.

[stempile]

Make sure that when you build anything you test it once before you crank out 8,16,32,48 or more SSR cards. I built 1 card to make sure everything worked then started making the rest. That way you KNOW for sure you have the PIN outs right for everything ...

I have built 36 of the 50 SSRs I plan to build at this point using this triac. This year I am NOT planning on putting a heat sink on. IF one dies, its faster and cheaper to replace then to build and attach heats sinks. I found last year I never pulled enough through to require them in the first place... Don't take my work for it though.

ms

ms

[stempile]

Also the gate is on the opposite side of the standard triacs we use and design the pcbs for. We designed them for a TO-220AB package but these are a TO-225AA package. You will need to reverse these triacs when placed on the pcb.

I built out the SSROZ card with this triac. I did not have to reverse the triac. The heat sink tab metal part is facing the RJ-45 connector. This is also indicated by the screen double line.

ms