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View Full Version : SSRneon mounting in Ta-200 help



Danevandy99
11-21-2014, 05:14 PM
Today I unpacked my TA-200's so I could mount my SSRneon's in them.

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I was hoping to remove the bottom set of the nuts and bolts option, but I wanted to get some advice on how to do it, in case I accidentally broke the enclosure in the process.

Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, could you offer me some advice? (I am a newbie by the way :blush:)

Thanks in advance. -Dane

imbluenote
11-21-2014, 06:09 PM
it's made for the TA-200

http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=SSRneon-G2-LED#General_Features

What problem are you having just removing the bolt and nut on the encolsure?

ukewarrior
11-21-2014, 06:27 PM
Is this my original SSRneon or the G2/G3 variety?

The original SSRneon is a bit tricky, but if its one of the newer ones:
Here's one from my show:
25765

Today I unpacked my TA-200's so I could mount my SSRneon's in them.

25764

I was hoping to remove the bottom set of the nuts and bolts option, but I wanted to get some advice on how to do it, in case I accidentally broke the enclosure in the process.

Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, could you offer me some advice? (I am a newbie by the way :blush:)

Thanks in advance. -Dane

Danevandy99
11-21-2014, 06:27 PM
Yes. Do you know the best way to go about doing that?

This is a SSRneon G2 ukewarrior.

ukewarrior
11-21-2014, 06:30 PM
Do what?

Yes. Do you know the best way to go about doing that?

Danevandy99
11-21-2014, 06:33 PM
Remove the bottom set of nuts and bolts.

ukewarrior
11-21-2014, 07:06 PM
You don't need to remove the molded in mounting studs to mount the SSRneon.
In fact, you need them.

Remove the bottom set of nuts and bolts.

Reddy_Kilowatt
11-21-2014, 07:46 PM
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:unsure: The TA-200s I've seen have empty wells and came without the studs.

You might try removing the nuts then double nut the end of a stud.. It might turn out.

-Craig

Danevandy99
11-21-2014, 07:57 PM
This is how the SSRneon sits in the TA-200 now.

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The studs that I circled in yellow are the things I'm asking for advice to remove. I'm hoping to use the other set of studs to secure the SSRneon.

Here is a side view of how the studs look in the TA-200.

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Do you know of a way to remove the studs Reddy_Kilowatt?

ukewarrior
11-21-2014, 08:29 PM
Oh My !
That is not the 'typical' TA 200.
I don't know how you remove those studs.

Reddy_Kilowatt
11-21-2014, 08:31 PM
As I said, mine came without.

I defer.. But if no one else chimes in.. You might put a couple of nuts on a stud and pull it with a claw hammer. :wow:

-Craig

imbluenote
11-21-2014, 08:39 PM
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?26611-Vanity-Enclosure-boxes

read post #10.

I checked out AFL's site and it didn't have anything on how to remove them.

you could cut those down and put a piece of plexi and use stand offs. Other wise not sure how else you could do it.

budude
11-21-2014, 08:47 PM
The TA200's come in two flavors - - with and without studs...

dmcole
11-21-2014, 08:53 PM
It is easy to cut off the bosses ("studs" as they've been called in this thread): it is jobs like this that a Higher Power invented the rotary cutting tool (aka Dremel).

It might be harder if you don't have a Dremel.

HTH.

\dmc

PS: Not to correct Budude, but I think they actually come in three flavors: bosses, no bosses (which are raised plastic where you can insert screws) and plain vanilla (nothing). FWIW, I think Chris (Radiant-Holidays) sells them without bosses, while Todd (DIYLEDExpress) sells them with.

OregonLights
11-21-2014, 09:12 PM
Welcome to DIYC! I love the TA-200 enclosures, they are very versatile and easy to work with.

Most TA-200's are ordered without the studs. And you just use some sheetmetal screws to mount the PCB onto the plastic bosses in the enclosure. In your case it came with metal studs installed into the plastic bosses. I would just grab them with a pair of pliers and back them out. Or as noted above, you could put two jamnuts tightened against each other so you can grab ahold of the stud to back it out with a box-end wrench, socket wrench or a metric crescent wrench [joking about the metric version! :)]

I've never had to remove the studs so I don't know if they are just screwed in, molded in or if they are pressed in. If they are pressed in you will probably just have to pull them out to get them out of the way. If molded in you will probably have to cut them off as dmc noted, but that seems to be the toughest way.

Anyhoo, all the TA-200's I got from Chris at Radiant-holidays have the bosses without any studs installed. I cut off the two upper bosses (just using the wirecutters I use for clipping long component leads when soldering) and used sheet metal screws in the lower two.
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This is a DCSSR (for DC rather than the AC you are controlling with the SSRNeon) but you get the picture (pun intended :wow:). But there are better pics up the thread above too.

Hard to go wrong. The plastic is malleable and won't crack easily so you can be pretty rough with the case getting the studs out of your way without breaking the enclosure. Even if you wind up having to cut out the bosses you can just drill two holes in the back of the enclosure and put in long #6 screws with a dab of silicone on each hole and you're in business. I do this a lot to suspend PCB's in enclosures when the bosses don't line up where I want them.
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It would be great to see some pics of how you work this out. Hope this helps!

tjetzer
11-21-2014, 10:33 PM
Heat the studs up with a heat gun and pull them straight out. A high powered hair dryer may also do it.

Danevandy99
11-22-2014, 12:42 AM
Heat the studs up with a heat gun and pull them straight out. A high powered hair dryer may also do it.

Have you tried this before tjetzer? I want to make sure this will work, as I only bought as many TA-200's as I needed, and won't have much time to buy more if some get broken.

A big thank you to all of you who replied. I really appreciate it! :biggrin:

WWNF911
11-26-2014, 01:33 AM
Like they've already said just use a Drexel and a cutting wheel. If you don't have one, get one. You'll need it again some day. Unless it's a big job and then it's a grinder with a cutting wheel. :-) you can just cut the stud or once it's out cut out the plastic standoff too if you want. Might leave it in though for stability.

WWNF911
11-26-2014, 01:36 AM
BTW using a cutting wheel will make sparks if you're cutting metal. Dont worry it wont burn you like you might think. Just Use some good eye protection.

ErnieHorning
11-26-2014, 07:15 PM
Do you have a socket wrench set? Just put the smallest socket that fits over the bolt and around the plastic boss. Put a nut on the bolt and turn it until the stud is pulled out. This should be pretty easy.

Danevandy99
11-26-2014, 08:00 PM
I ended up using tjetzer's method for removing them with a heat gun. After I heated up the studs for about 25-30 seconds, I used a wrench to pull them out. The studs came out very cleanly. Here is what the TA-200 looked like before I mounted the SSRneon:

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Here is after I mounted the SSRneon. It turned out very nice.

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Thanks for all your input! I couldn't have solved this without you guys. :thup2:

BigChuck
11-26-2014, 08:23 PM
Glad to see you didn't try cutting as some people suggested. Hot air works in a fraction of the time. I bet you could even do this by heating up the stud with a soldering iron if you had to.

Using hot air and pulling straight out makes it possible to put the studs back in if you need to.

tjetzer
11-28-2014, 11:29 AM
Have you tried this before tjetzer? I want to make sure this will work, as I only bought as many TA-200's as I needed, and won't have much time to buy more if some get broken.

A big thank you to all of you who replied. I really appreciate it! :biggrin:

Yes I have.

WWNF911
11-28-2014, 11:30 AM
Great job!

imbluenote
12-03-2016, 12:58 PM
I know this is an old thread but i just wanted and what i did may already be out there (and as i now see that Big Chuck mentioned). I got the TA-200 for some pixel extenders and had the same issue today with the bosses. i turned up the soldering iron and used that to heat up the stud/boss and in a couple of second it was loose enough to just pull out. I didn't want to use a heat gun in case it deformed the rest of the case.