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celtman123
07-27-2014, 07:50 PM
I've been doing some re-thinking of my setup and have been reading up on TIP31 NPN transistors. I am thinking about using dumb RGB strips (12v2A) as lights, 12v adapter to provide power to the strips and Cat5e cable to send control signals to the transistors. This way I can use only a few extension cords to provide the 110VAC to the elements as opposed to a whole yard full of spaghetti. :)
I should able to build a couple of small PCB's and mount them in Carlton A238 utility boxes.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

FYI: this setup will only be used on a simple on-off setup.... I am not doing any dimming or fades! So, plz no comments about TLC5940's or DMX/Renards

P. Short
07-27-2014, 08:42 PM
Don't forget heatsinks, as those parts are going to run hot with 2A of collector current. And you're going to need to give it a lot of drive in order to make sure that it is truly driven into saturation (if you don't, the power dissipation is going to go up).

celtman123
07-27-2014, 09:11 PM
Good point. Thanks

n1ist
07-28-2014, 07:47 AM
I'd look into N channel FETs instead. Much lower dissipation...
/mike

kingofkya
07-28-2014, 04:26 PM
Yeah^

Fets act on the voltage level and just see the high or low signal and dont need current running though them like a npn or pnp does.

Theses links might be interesting to you


X

IRF730
12
Q1-Q12
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/irf730-power-mosfet-n-channel-5-5a-400v.html


X

Isolateing washer
12
Q1-Q12
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/insulation-bushing-to-220.html


X

Isolateing HeatPad
12
Q1-Q12
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/transistor-rubber-washer-to-220.html



heatsync
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/heatsink-to-220-4-fins-aluminium.html

jklingert
07-28-2014, 05:01 PM
Another option is a low cost, logic level, low resistance, n channel mosfet http://www.taydaelectronics.com/irlu024-mosfet-65-mohm-17a-55v-n-channel-i-pak-3-irlu024npbf.html

masterful
07-28-2014, 06:04 PM
Hi there. The irlz14n are good choice. Depends on whether you are using full length strips or not but these are rated at 10amps a piece.
They are my choice in my build.
Hope this helps

Matt

P. Short
07-28-2014, 08:17 PM
I would not use the IRF730 for a 2A load. You would more than a 5V Vgs in order to guarantee that the part will pass 2A, and then the power dissipation of the transistor would be a bit higher than with other possible transistors. The part that masterful mentioned is a much better part for this application, although I don't know the relative prices.

Other parts to consider are the FQPF13N06L or the FQPF20N06L, which are not too expensive and have good on-region characteristics (i.e. they don't require high Vgs values to attain low Vds values for the current levels in question).

Edit - the part that jklingert mentioned is also a good part with decent prices at tayda.

celtman123
07-28-2014, 09:20 PM
My thought is to use an Arduino Uno in combination with 74HC595's. I would run a serial USB cable out to a box in the yard housing an ATX power supply and the Arduino. From there I run short lengths of wiring to the display pieces. Each piece contains a single 10ftRGB dumb strip. The strip's paperwork says it draws 2A, but I'm assuming that that would be with all LEDs on

celtman123
07-28-2014, 09:23 PM
(cont,) so in actuality each TIP31 would only be drawing about 0.667A as it would only be controlling 1 channel of the strip

celtman123
08-13-2014, 03:18 AM
Just received 50 TIP31C's from Jameco.com ($0.39 ea) Working on the individual boards now.

Still thinking about how to layout the main board that holds the 595's

sporadic
08-13-2014, 08:47 AM
Looks like I'm late to the game. If you don't mind SMD, checkout the IRLML6344TRPbF (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/International-Rectifier/IRLML6344TRPBF/?qs=%2fha2pyFadug9a5KeKuUVDhhDB1E%252bnxGMpr3gOD%2 52bg%252bGw%3d). Vgs(th) of only 0.8v, Rds(on) of 29mOhm @ 4.5V, and only 12.4 cents each in qty100 from Mouser. I'm driving them with 3.3V in my 18 channel wireless strip driver (WSD18). They stay nice and cool with 150ct strip, will test a 300ct soon:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIDk8qjJA5c

LightUp
08-13-2014, 02:06 PM
Just received 50 TIP31C's from Jameco.com ($0.39 ea) Working on the individual boards now.

Still thinking about how to layout the main board that holds the 595's

I started a design for the TLC5940 and a PNP (MPSA56 @ 11.3 per 100) driver, similar to your 595 project. I have my board layed out in Eagle but not finalized. I needed a max current 200mA per channel using mini-lamps. :)

masterful
08-13-2014, 02:45 PM
Wow cheap price for the tip31c. I paid a huge 1.15 each for the 6 I used for testing.
You did well on those I think.
How are the designs going.?
I'm using PCB express for my design. Takes forever but worth the wait.

celtman123
08-19-2014, 10:29 PM
Update:
Decided to build everything on a couple of breadboards to begin with rather than try to build a bunch of PCB's. This will save a bunch of time and I can work on the PCB's for next year.

Just received 6 more 5meter dumb RGB strips


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masterful
08-20-2014, 04:59 PM
How much did your strips cost you. My last 2 were 18pounds each. Included a PSU and controller. ?

celtman123
08-20-2014, 05:52 PM
3 5meter strips + controller (won't be using) $35.99 USD from banggood.com Chinese import


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celtman123
08-21-2014, 01:13 AM
@masterful:

http://m.banggood.com/3X-5M-RGB-3528-LED-Strip-Lights-Waterproof-12V-300led-Strip-p-909281.html


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masterful
08-21-2014, 09:31 AM
Brilliant thanks for that. Do they have a wide solder pad or are they the real tiny ones. Magnifier required....

sporadic
08-21-2014, 09:50 AM
@masterful:

http://m.banggood.com/3X-5M-RGB-3528-LED-Strip-Lights-Waterproof-12V-300led-Strip-p-909281.html


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You did want 3528 strips didn't you? Just noticed there were 3528's when most people use the 5050 strips. Just hope you're getting what you wanted.

EDIT:
Here's 3x 300 count 5050 5M strips:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v39tKYxkXOg

LightUp
08-21-2014, 11:09 AM
5050 types are brighter according to --- http://www.flexfireleds.com/pages/Comparison-between-3528-LEDs-and-5050-LEDs.html

celtman123
08-22-2014, 12:02 AM
Yes, 5050's would be better but I was just going with what I had on hand


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LightUp
08-22-2014, 08:53 AM
Yes, 5050's would be better but I was just going with what I had on hand


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No problem. I thought you were looking to buy.

masterful
08-22-2014, 03:07 PM
The 3528 strips have seperate LEDs for each of the 3 colours. At least mine do.

celtman123
08-29-2014, 11:10 PM
My controller box (so far)http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/5ee07c8d3203dc9dd23b2ce57c195609.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/3f2c777eef1518a619ec2de0253b3b6b.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/8cd7f5cf9c7d94a5542e4c5195f11451.jpg


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masterful
08-30-2014, 07:19 PM
Looking good. Reminds me of what my setup looked when I was testing but a lot more neater. Less cable looms. Are you using solid or stranded links?

n1ist
08-30-2014, 07:34 PM
The only potential issue I see is that you will be limited by the current-handling capacity of the long busses on the breadboard. I'd feed the breadboards at multiple points to work around this.

/mike

celtman123
09-01-2014, 12:22 AM
Solid links between the connections. Yes, I am feeding the breadboards and term blocks at multiple locations


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celtman123
10-02-2014, 12:21 AM
POOF! Reversed the polarity on the 595 array. Guess it's time to start over


PixLite16 controller from advateklights.com and a bunch of pixels from Ray


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kingofkya
10-02-2014, 12:36 AM
Man your are going to have a ton of reliability issues with that, when you put stuff liek this into use you really shoudl at lest put it on soldered perf board.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=perf%20board&sprefix=perf+%2Caps



1 amp is really the practical limit per trace on a solder less breadboard. ON the no names ones its likely worse.

celtman123
10-02-2014, 12:38 AM
Yeah, found that out the hard way. I blame myself, tried to go cheap...


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kingofkya
10-02-2014, 01:15 AM
Yeah, found that out the hard way. I blame myself, tried to go cheap...


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You can probbly make up a board in kicad.
http://www.kicad-pcb.org/display/KICAD/KiCad+EDA+Software+Suite

and send to oshpark.com(usa) or elecrow.com(china) then get it back fairly quick.

celtman123
10-02-2014, 01:24 AM
I'm going in a totally different direction. I ordered the PixLite16 board. 32 universes of LEDs plus 4 DMX512 universes onboard. Links to Vixen via sACN (E1.31) or DMX. The demo videos look pretty straight forward


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P. Short
10-02-2014, 10:10 AM
You can probbly make up a board in kicad.
http://www.kicad-pcb.org/display/KICAD/KiCad+EDA+Software+Suite

and send to oshpak.com(usa) or elecrow.com(china) then get it back fairly quick.

oshpark.com (or elecrow.com)