Mouser part substitution?

[Penfold]

Apparently the Rectifier-Bridge 1A 100V, mouser part # 821-DB102G used for the Renard 24 is on back order. Is there another part that I could maybe substitute? If not that is cool and I will wait until 05/09/2008 for it to be sent over to me.

Mike

[P. Short]

A mouser search for DB102 turns up a number of other parts. Any of these parts should work so long as you chose the proper package (through-hole, I think). 833-DB102 might be a good sub (someone who has the board should verify that it takes a through-hole part).

There are other possible subs (higher voltages, and maybe even the 50V part), but that one should do for now.

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Phil

[Penfold]

Thanks for you help P.Short!

[ben]

I am going to order the Rectifier by Diodes inc to replace it. Mouser says its a cross reference so I have faith!

Ben

[fkostyun]

One sub part would be 512-DF01M, which is a 1.5amp version, and has the same cost. I added that part to the BOM as a sub part.

[Penfold]

Thanks a bunch Frank!!

:mrgreen:

[P. Short]

I am going to order the Rectifier by Diodes inc to replace it. Mouser says its a cross reference so I have faith!

Ben

Unfortunately I have zero faith in Mouser-recommended cross-references. I'm not saying that part is the wrong one (since I haven't checked it), but I have seen enough bad cross-references over the years that I don't trust them (or cross-references by anyone, for that matter).

You should always either check the specs yourself, or have them checked by someone that you trust to know what they are doing (preferably the original designer).

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Phil

[joneslights]

I used a DB103G which was recommended to me from this thread:

http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2828

Mouser 821-DB103G

[ben]

Unfortunately I have zero faith in Mouser-recommended cross-references. I'm not saying that part is the wrong one (since I haven't checked it), but I have seen enough bad cross-references over the years that I don't trust them (or cross-references by anyone, for that matter).

You should always either check the specs yourself, or have them checked by someone that you trust to know what they are doing (preferably the original designer).

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Phil

I will keep that in mind. For the COOP I did check the data and DIYC as thats a large mistake.


Ben

[Jeff Millard]

...I did check ... DIYC as thats a large mistake.


Ben


Did he just say checking DIYC is a big mistake?

Hmmm....

Jeff

[ben]

Did he just say checking DIYC is a big mistake?

Hmmm....

Jeff

hehe no, I mean if I didn't check and messed up that would be a big messup.

Ben