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Xenia
02-22-2013, 01:31 PM
I wanted to make some snubbers to help control flicker on some of my LED strings. I wanted a cost effective package that had a clean look. I decided to use male vampire plug and 1 watt 47K resistors. I picked up my resistors on Ebay here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/200pcs-1W-Watt-47K-Ohm-1-Axial-Metal-Film-Resistor-/181020168009?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3 D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D5777244539211604036%26pid%3 D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D181020168009% 26). These are 11 mm long and just barely fit. These (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=iJVBkmKXgrksiduYsf9TOw%3D%3D ) from mouser would probably work better as they are only 9 mm in length.

I set my soldering station to 440 C in order to be able heat each leg quickly.

Bend one leg to 45 degrees to start, place between piercing legs on plug

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Place vampire plug into foam or some type of holder and install resistor between the piercing legs.

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Use a small flat blade screwdriver to bend the resistor wire around one leg.

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Repeat on opposite side

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Xenia
02-22-2013, 01:38 PM
Using 440 C soldering stand soldering upright aqainst the piercing leg and on the resistor wire. (this is the same method I use on triacs) County to 10 and then touch the solder to the top of the piercing leg and the soldering iron at the same time. Repeat on other side.

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Clip off excess resistor wire,

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Check for continuity and proper resistance.

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Install top and mark.

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FIRECOP252
02-22-2013, 02:40 PM
I will have to try these out. My show went real good last year minus the flickering on my MT even with the Phillips brand device that Wayne told me about. It cut it down about half but still had some.. Have you tried these out yet to see how they work.

Xenia
02-22-2013, 02:58 PM
I have not tired these out yet. Like you, I added the Phillips surge protectors with EMI filtering and that did solve much of the problem but not all. I hope these will take care of the rest more or less. I based these on this thread (http://forums.planetchristmas.com/index.php?/topic/36988-easiest-terminatorssnubbers-to-make/page__hl__easiest) from Planet Christmas but the plugs he used there are now two for $2.99 from ACE hardware and the vampires on pre-sale were less than $.50 each. I had problems getting the solder to adhere until I raised the temp to 440. Also do not touch the metal tabs for a couple of minutes after you complete the soldering as they remain very hot.

ErnieHorning
02-22-2013, 03:25 PM
at Target. The LED’s would mostly flicker before but after they dimmed very smoothly.

She would have been OK with just plugging in a C7 night light but no…, we have to do this right. :biggrin2:

dmcole
02-22-2013, 06:18 PM
at Target. The LED’s would mostly flicker before but after they dimmed very smoothly.

She would have been OK with just plugging in a C7 night light but no…, we have to do this right. :biggrin2:

Ernie:

I think something got cut off in this message ...

But I was going to recommend the night light as well ... I get mine at Dollar Tree, so they're a dollar (I have had to run the wide blade of night lights through a Dremel to get them to fit in the end of a string, though).

\dmc

kingofkya
02-22-2013, 06:38 PM
I have not tired these out yet. Like you, I added the Phillips surge protectors with EMI filtering and that did solve much of the problem but not all. I hope these will take care of the rest more or less. I based these on this thread (http://forums.planetchristmas.com/index.php?/topic/36988-easiest-terminatorssnubbers-to-make/page__hl__easiest) from Planet Christmas but the plugs he used there are now two for $2.99 from ACE hardware and the vampires on pre-sale were less than $.50 each. I had problems getting the solder to adhere until I raised the temp to 440. Also do not touch the metal tabs for a couple of minutes after you complete the soldering as they remain very hot.


Short cords make all the difference for me, Everything with 10' or shorter was fine 2-3 long runs with 50' cords well they flickered.

However i did have to put a surge surpresser. on the input for my ren16 because, garage door made it flicker.

Also it seams when you do have flicker you need to put the snubber as close to the triac/controller as possible, to insure it hits the zero and dosen't re trigger.

ErnieHorning
02-23-2013, 11:05 PM
I think something got cut off in this message ...
Hmmm…, my original message was simular but went something like this…

I made some snubbers like this a couple of years ago. My wife bought a cheap TRIAC controller at Target to use on the indoor tree. The lights were some half-wave LED’s bought from Lowe’s about the same time. They mostly flashed and flickered instead of dimming.

The 47KΩ was an arbitrary value that the guy on Planet Christmas chose because it’s what he had and it worked. I tried 47KΩ and it works also. I tried 51KΩ and 62KΩ and they both worked too. So I calculated that the RMS watts were .306 for 47KΩ and .282 for 51KΩ. I then used two 100KΩ 1/4 watt in parallel to equal 50KΩ, dissipating a total of .288 watts or .144 watts each. … because I have a lot of them. :)

I just pre trimmed the resistors and drop one on each side of the terminals; they fit like the plug was designed for them.

When I get a chance, I’ll post pictures for future reference.

Strother85
02-24-2013, 01:08 AM
Did you use these snubbers at the beginning of every set or just per channel. This sounds like a good experiment for my dimming issues with the GE c9 leds I have on my roof lines currently. I had 4 sets on each level, on a channel each. They did what Ernie mentioned...a lot of flickering and then shutting off abrubtly without dimming. I'm going to grab the stuff from mouser and try this out :)

budude
02-24-2013, 01:28 AM
Did you use these snubbers at the beginning of every set or just per channel. This sounds like a good experiment for my dimming issues with the GE c9 leds I have on my roof lines currently. I had 4 sets on each level, on a channel each. They did what Ernie mentioned...a lot of flickering and then shutting off abrubtly without dimming. I'm going to grab the stuff from mouser and try this out :)

It doesn't actually matter where you put them - beginning or end of the string(s).

Strother85
02-24-2013, 01:43 AM
It doesn't actually matter where you put them - beginning or end of the string(s).

Ahh he used a male plug...now this makes more sense...just plug in to the end of the light set in my case. I was trying to think of places to put a female plug snubber. Third night in a row, lol I'm obviously a little slow right now!

howards9
11-05-2013, 09:14 AM
Using 440 C soldering stand soldering upright aqainst the piercing leg and on the resistor wire. (this is the same method I use on triacs) County to 10 and then touch the solder to the top of the piercing leg and the soldering iron at the same time. Repeat on other side.

...

Install top and mark.

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Xenia, did you seal up the end where the SPT wire would normally come in or just left it open?

Xenia
11-05-2013, 11:36 AM
It depends, if they are in an enclosure, I just left it open. If the snubber is out in the open, I hit the opening with a little hot glue.

howards9
11-05-2013, 11:37 AM
Ok, thanks.

ErnieHorning
11-05-2013, 01:40 PM
Leaving it open wouldn’t be much different than the old incandescent light strings. Nothing there was ever sealed. It would be good to at least make a half hearted effort to point the hole down.

howards9
11-05-2013, 02:16 PM
That did cross my mind.

corytcline
11-05-2013, 03:35 PM
snubbers worked great for me and my flicker on half wave leds from lowes! I just make them out of the male ends we cut off cords to wire our controllers up with, no scrap male ends!

RobG
11-05-2013, 04:32 PM
BTW, the resistor in this solution is called bleeder, not snubber.

howards9
11-05-2013, 05:27 PM
BTW, the resistor in this solution is called bleeder, not snubber.

Yeah, but it "snubs" out problems! :thup:

budude
11-05-2013, 05:33 PM
BTW, the resistor in this solution is called bleeder, not snubber.

Agreed - but that ship sailed a couple years ago - if you say 'bleeder' you will get 50 responses of 'do you mean a snubber instead?"...

dhageremtp
11-05-2013, 10:53 PM
Where can I get these resisters?

budude
11-05-2013, 11:11 PM
eBay is probably the cheapest route...

plasmadrive
11-05-2013, 11:14 PM
Try Mouser or DigiKey

RobG
11-05-2013, 11:17 PM
Taydaelectronics is the best. Good selection, great prices, and awesome shipping.

dhageremtp
11-05-2013, 11:54 PM
Can you point me to the correct resistor? Size?

howards9
11-05-2013, 11:58 PM
47K 5% 1watt

CanelaLights
08-20-2015, 12:40 PM
This may be a stupid question, but what solder did you use? 60/40, electrical lead? Did you use flux or did you have flux core solder? Too many options on Amazon for me to choose from. Thanks!!

ErnieHorning
08-20-2015, 01:53 PM
Just standard 60/40, or so, flux core solder works fine. I always recommend lead solder if you can find it, you'll be happier.

toozie21
08-20-2015, 02:14 PM
Just standard 60/40, or so, flux core solder works fine. I always recommend lead solder if you can find it, you'll be happier.
+1 for both of Ernie's comments. I think the most recommend is 63/37 right? But I am pretty sure most everyone uses 60/40 due to the cost and pretty much just-as-good performance.

I hate working with lead-free solder, it is the devil!

ErnieHorning
08-20-2015, 03:32 PM
47K 5% 1watt
A resistor is going to see the RMS value, so at 120 volts, its only going dissipate .306 watts. A half watt will work just as well and it will fit inside the vampire plug better.

I used two 24K resistors in series which splits the wattage, so each resistor only needed to be 1/4 watt.

Wayne J
08-20-2015, 10:32 PM
Save some money and just put the resistor on the channel terminal. :)