Connecting the Renard64

[jcoll549]

I have my board built - I too had a problem with diodes holes. I have yet to test it as I don't understand how to EXACTLY power this up - yes I need pictures/schematics. I thought I had it figured out but I chickened out when it came to plugging in it in, something about 120v running on the board and being in the wrong spot wasn't appealing. I stopped asking questions about how to power it up and was hoping to see a schematic on where what goes, but that never transpired. And after asking several times and getting replies to the questions that just didn't quite explain it for me, I just quit asking as I didn't want to be a pest. So I have the board all done, with the chips programmed with the test code, waiting to powered up.

Jeff C

[P. Short]

In the interests of being able to find things later on, I intend to split this post off into a new topic.

But before I do that, please remind me which board you are using...I think that you are talking about the Renard64, but I would like to make sure. Also, what were your intentions for supplying power and zero-crossing for that board (there are several possibilities)?

--

Phil

[jcoll549]

I am using the Renard 64. I have attached a picture of how I have it populated. I can provide other pictures if that could get me the hook up. I was wanting to the simplest form of powering it up. If I understand it right one part (ZC 5 dc ?) I could get from the computer power supply the other part had to come from else where Vcc and if I am correct that was 120v ac.

Jeff C

[P. Short]

There are really two questions: where should the power come from, and where should the zero-crossing come from.

Since you seem a bit concerned and uncertain about the whole process, we will take things one step at a time, trying to minimize any risk in the process. Along these lines, then, I recommend that you only use one PIC for the initial testing (U10), and that you use the non-PWM version of the firmware. This minimizes the load on the power supply, and also minimizes the parts at risk if there is any sort of problem (although the green LEDs aren't going to work properly). The other PICs can be added later, and you can switch over to using the PWM version of the code later (so that the on-board LEDs will work properly, and so that it will work better with LED light strings).

What power supply do you want to use? Since you already have the regulator soldered, I would recommend that you bring power in through the RJ45 jacks, on pins 7 and 8 of J4 (using the Wayne transformer board design). This transformer board is not adequate for driving all 64 channels with LEDs and PWM firmware, but it will get you started (you will need a full 1A worth of current for the fully operational version). Later on you will probably want to remove the regulator and use a PC power supply, but we can discuss this more.

For the zero-crossing you have three choices:

The safest choice is to use the Wayne transformer board, remove the H11AA1, and install Q1 (2N3904) and R9 (10K) (this is the safest alternative in the short term, because it means that the highest voltage on the board is about 9V from the Wayne J transformer board).

The second choice (which may be the best long-term) is to bring the outputs of a 12VAC transformer into J1 (this is the second-safest alternative, because the highest voltage on the board is about 18V from the transformer, and it is confined to one corner of the board. In addition, it is easy to convert the third option later on, if desired.

The third choice is to bring 110VAC to J1. It is a riskier alternative, because there is now 170 V (peak) on the board, which is likely to cause big problems if it becomes accidently shorted to something else.

For now, I would recommend either of the first two choices.

--

Phil

[jcoll549]

Phil,
Thank you for the great explanation, I have asked wayne for a parts list for his transformer board. This seems to be a cure for me. If I take the LEDs off will waynes board be enough for 64 channels? I don't mind un-soldering them if I can get all the amperage I need from Waynes board. If this doesn't provide the amperage I need then I do have a PC power supply to use.

Also for second choice - do I need to remove any parts? And as far as the 12vac transformer, I remember reading from the past that this can't be just a plain old wall wart. Do you have a ready made option or make your own option?


I DO NOT like the third option and don't see myself doing that.


Again I want to thank you for putting this in a language and organization I can understand.

Jeff C

[P. Short]

There is no need to unsolder the LEDs, just use the non-PWM (regulatr) version of the firmware. There is a 1:256 duty cycle on the LEDs/optos with this version of the firmware, so the total current draw should be under 100 mA total in this case (as opposed to about 1A worst case with the PWM firmware).

As far as using wall-wart transformers goes, I do not recommend it at this point. It is a complete crap-shoot as to what is inside; it may or may not work, and I don't feel like trying to troubleshoot it long distance. Also, it needs to be a center-tapped transformer, and I suspect that most wall-warts do not meet this requirement.

I would recommend using a discrete transformer, like part number 273-1352 from Radio Shack (12.6 VAC CT, 1.5A) and wire it up by hand (I don't think that it will fit Wayne's board, which is designed for one specific transformer). Wayne at one point in time used a 300 mA transformer from Radio Shack (part 273-1385, I think). This would only work if you are not going to use the LEDs on the board (not enough current for the PWM firmware). You have already paid for the LEDs and soldered them in, so I think that the 273-1352 part would probably be a better choice for you. If the local Rat-shack doesn't have this part, you might be able to find something similar at a local electronics surplus store or electronics store.

Use the circuit from Wayne's board, but substitute the 1.5A transformer for the one shown in the schematic.

--

Phil

[P. Short]

Right now I'm working on updating the schematic for this board, and I came across a potential problem with bring power in to the board through the RJ connections (the trace on the anode of D1 is way too skinny). As far as I know everyone else using this board has be replacing the 7805 regulator with a connector, and bring 5VDC in directly (probably from a spare PC power supply.

So, before going off to buy a transformer, let me think about things overnight.

--

Phil

[wjohn]

i had a quick chat with Phil and we think we have a solution for REN64 users, who want to bring power in on the RJ. I'll mod my board and post the pictures tonite.

John.

[jcoll549]

standing by on new instructions.

Jeff C

[Wayne J]

After some conversation with Phil, some changes will be made to the transformer board. This will make it more universal for different needs rather than made for just one setup :wink:

8)

[P. Short]

Here is a proposed schematic for the transformer board.

It can serve in three modes.

1) RS-232 in, RS232 out (install shunts J1, J2, omit U1,U2,U3,C1,C2,D4), for connecting a PC to a Renard using RS232 in the most inexpensive manner.

2) RS232 in (via P1), RS485 out (via JR1). Omit shunts J1,J2, install U1, U2,U3.C1, C2, D4. Converts RS232 to RS485 for a long distance run between the PC and the first Renard.

3) RS485 pass-thru (in via JR2, out via JR1). Omit J1, J2, U1, U2, U3, C1, C2, and D4. Used for supplying power and connecting to Renards after the first one.

--

Phil

[tconley]

Now all you would have to add is a hookup for parallel to rj45 and you could power all of the various board designs, on the site, with the one transfer board design. A universal power source.