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View Full Version : Enclouser Ideas for DirkCheapSSR



glaforce
10-25-2012, 09:43 PM
I'm looking for pictures of enclosures that you all are using for the the DirkCheapSSR units.


Gary

nuelemma
10-25-2012, 09:54 PM
I'm looking for pictures of enclosures that you all are using for the the DirkCheapSSR units.


Gary

3/4" PVC pipe, caps and some heat shrink tubing.

15956

15957

kychristmas
10-25-2012, 09:58 PM
3/4" PVC pipe, caps and some heat shrink tubing.

15956

15957

This is similar to what I'm doing, except I'm using 1" and all my wires come out the one end. I'm calling them DirkCheapBulletSSRs. They will be mounted inside the Mini Trees and the Mini Tree strings will be -semi-hardwired to the controller.

griffixdc
10-25-2012, 10:31 PM
sorry if this is not a good place to ask...what boards are most common boards that this ssr is used with ...

kychristmas
10-25-2012, 10:37 PM
sorry if this is not a good place to ask...what boards are most common boards that this ssr is used with ...

Do you mean which controller? If so, the answer is any controller that uses a standard SSR wiring. So anything that can use a SSRoz, SSRez, SSRNeon, etc... The idea behind DirkCheapSSRs is lower cost. Less than a $1 per channel. The downside is they are limited to the amount current they can handle. Great for Single Strings of Mini Incans or a few strings of LEDs.

theatretch85
10-26-2012, 02:04 AM
Are these dimmable? If so I need to know how I can get my hands on about 16 boards and parts...

kingofkya
10-26-2012, 02:15 AM
Yes there just low amprage. I think there is a group/buy interest thread going on.

Skunberg
10-26-2012, 09:44 AM
I put the rj45 jack on and put them in a ta200 with pig tails coming out like other SSRs.

dirknerkle
10-26-2012, 01:17 PM
Are these dimmable? If so I need to know how I can get my hands on about 16 boards and parts...

Yes, they are. mlkren is running a GB on them until Nov 1st. but to be able to participate in group buys, you need to be a supporting member. It's cheap and easy to do (go to your profile and in the lower left corner, select "subscriptions.") You'll save enough in the group buy for those boards & parts to more than pay for the membership. Go for it.

theatretch85
10-27-2012, 02:09 AM
These will work great with my mini trees, had issues last year with water getting into the SSR boxes being in the snow, was trying to figure out a different enclosure idea for the SSREz, but these will work great inside a PVC pipe! Just bought 4 units in the group buy, now just hope I can find the time to build them and put it all together/change the mini trees controller.

glaforce
10-27-2012, 09:46 PM
3/4" PVC pipe, caps and some heat shrink tubing.

15956

15957

Ok i like the PVC pipe and Caps idea but have some questions.

1. How are you sealing the Caps around the wires?
2. Are the caps glued into place?
3. If they are glued in place what are you doing to service the unit?
4. Could you use a piece of PVC with only a cap on the top end to keep out water and leave the bottom of the pipe open?

I use TA 200 for my SSRez's and SSRNeon's but not sure i what to use them for these.

Gary

theatretch85
10-28-2012, 02:53 AM
I just ordered up 4 sets of these and I plan on gluing the top cap to the PVC pipe, and then gluing a female threaded fitting to the bottom of the pipe, making the bottom cap a male thread and drilling a hole in the bottom for all the wires to go through. The circuit board would then basically be attached to the bottom threaded cap, and the top/pipe would be completely removable in the event I need to service the board. Last year I had lots of issues with my SSR boards getting wet under all the snow we had, I had to fix several of them throughout the season and I was looking at a new enclousre idea for this year, but these will be much easier to seal up and work with especially on the mini trees. Each LED set of lights is only a couple watts, I think all 64 channels for my mini tress only took 2.5 amps total. I'll maybe look into buying another ren64 and re-purposing the SSR boards I have now for something else.

amps
10-28-2012, 02:17 PM
I stuffed mine into 1" PVC pipe. I capped one end using punchout plugs for junction boxes, sealed with hot glue (mostly to cut down on cost). The other end was so tight with the wires that I just sealed around them with silicon. The PCBs were sealed with heatshrink and hot glue. I figure this should make them pretty watertight. I was worried a little about fixing units if they failed since they were so glued up but the cost was so low during the group buy, it'd be easier to replace a unit once in a while at $3.75.

nuelemma
10-29-2012, 09:17 AM
1) I used liquid tape to seal the holes around the wires.
2,3) The caps are not glued, in case I need to service them. I just used a little of the liquid tape to create some kind of seal.
4) I think so, unless they are close to the ground where water can get in...



Ok i like the PVC pipe and Caps idea but have some questions.

1. How are you sealing the Caps around the wires?
2. Are the caps glued into place?
3. If they are glued in place what are you doing to service the unit?
4. Could you use a piece of PVC with only a cap on the top end to keep out water and leave the bottom of the pipe open?

I use TA 200 for my SSRez's and SSRNeon's but not sure i what to use them for these.

Gary

kychristmas
10-29-2012, 02:28 PM
Ok i like the PVC pipe and Caps idea but have some questions.

1. How are you sealing the Caps around the wires?
2. Are the caps glued into place?
3. If they are glued in place what are you doing to service the unit?
4. Could you use a piece of PVC with only a cap on the top end to keep out water and leave the bottom of the pipe open?

I use TA 200 for my SSRez's and SSRNeon's but not sure i what to use them for these.

Gary

I think if you can't get it perfectly sealed, then don't try. Purposely leave it with an opening. If water gets in, it has to be able to get out. Water has a way of getting between the wires. It's much better at getting in than out and sealing them will cause you more problems. Also, if you make them air-tight, moisture will build up with temp changes.

Before I decided to attach them to the inside of my Megatree, I had come up with a little stake idea to keep them off the ground and the open end down. I'll try to find my sketch.

I went ahead and layed it out in Corel. I will likely make a few of these for misc use.

dirknerkle
10-29-2012, 03:46 PM
Kelly,

That is one, slick implementation! Cutting the PVC sharp so it's easy to stick in the ground, leaving an exit slot, and all the electrical stuff it up above... that's tremendous.

You may have a budding business there -- about 1300 dirk cheaps have been sold... if Mike sells off his current stock, that'll put it close to 2K units.

TomL8345
11-02-2012, 05:11 PM
In your drawing you show a 1" Union, is this truly a Union, or are you using a Coupling?

CaptKirk
11-02-2012, 05:55 PM
Kelly, NICE!! Apparently old dogs can teach new tricks!! :biggrin2:

glaforce
11-03-2012, 03:50 PM
I liked the PVC stake idea but wanted it a little taller and cutting that slot seem like a task with out a router or milling machine so I used a TEE instead. I included a couple of pictures of the stake in 1 peice and in 2 peices.

The top cap is glued and the TEE is glued to stake end.

I included a picture of a finished unit as well.

Top pipe is 4" tall and the bottom one is 8" tall

Gary

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

kychristmas
11-03-2012, 03:58 PM
In your drawing you show a 1" Union, is this truly a Union, or are you using a Coupling?

Sorry Tom, I use "Union" and "Coupler" interchangably. Sorry if they are not.

See the Gary's (glaforce) Tee idea below. Makes it a little bit bulkier, but I like the idea and Gary is certainly correct that it make it easier and safier to build.

TomL8345
11-03-2012, 05:21 PM
I like Gary's idea a lot, but my suggestion for improvement would be to use a Y instead of a T to minimize the entry of water.

Thanks to all who are contributing to this enclosure design!

kychristmas
11-03-2012, 05:35 PM
I like Gary's idea a lot, but my suggestion for improvement would be to use a Y instead of a T to minimize the entry of water.

Thanks to all who are contributing to this enclosure design!

I thought about that, but 1" Wye fittings are not as available and they cost quite a bit more than a Tee or Coupler

glaforce
11-03-2012, 08:58 PM
I had the same idea with the Y but was unable to find them and if i had i sure they would have been $3 or $4 dollars each and i bought 10 of the tee's for $5.90. You could also put 90 on and turn it down. At this point i have about $1.50 each in the DirkCheapSSR Yard Stake. Not to bad

Gary

kychristmas
12-10-2012, 01:32 PM
Following up on the Ground Stake enclosure I posted above, I also used 1" PVC Pipe to make bullet-style enclosures for DirkCheapSSRs for my Minitrees. 3" Piece of Pipe with a End Cap at the top. I actually hard-wired the Light strings to the SSR. I then used one of the Plugs I cutoff the strings to make an input cord.

So far, these are working great. Had a few issues working out how to get the whole SSR and wires to stay in the pipe. Once I discovered a Rubber Band worked great as a grommet and held them in place, I was good to go. So far only one faiure of a single Channel.

My minitrees now have one power cable and one SSR signal cable going to them and the enclosure hides will up in the tree. No TA-200 and Stake next to the mini trees as in previous years.


Edit: The picture shows the first one I did prior to adding the Rubber Band Grommet.

bcowan
12-10-2012, 03:21 PM
Following up on the Ground Stake enclosure I posted above, I also used 1" PVC Pipe to make bullet-style enclosures for DirkCheapSSRs for my Minitrees. 3" Piece of Pipe with a End Cap at the top. I actually hard-wired the Light strings to the SSR. I then used one of the Plugs I cutoff the strings to make an input cord.

So far, these are working great. Had a few issues working out how to get the whole SSR and wires to stay in the pipe. Once I discovered a Rubber Band worked great as a grommet and held them in place, I was good to go. So far only one faiure of a single Channel.

My minitrees now have one power cable and one SSR signal cable going to them and the enclosure hides will up in the tree. No TA-200 and Stake next to the mini trees as in previous years.


Edit: The picture shows the first one I did prior to adding the Rubber Band Grommet.


This is basically what I did on my mini trees, except I drilled a hole in a cap and put it on the bottom. It works great and makes setting up the trees quick and easy.

fathead45
12-10-2012, 03:43 PM
never really got around to posting but ill add my 2 ideas.

first one is a 1in pvc entrance box, they are cheap and easy to work on. about 1.50 for them.

2nd is pvc and a T to make a stake.

Skunberg
12-10-2012, 05:00 PM
I don't have a picture but I just use the TA200 box everyone uses with other SSRs.

Brian

JasonPortwood
12-10-2012, 05:34 PM
I took a piece of 1" PVC pipe just about 2 inches longer than the DirkCheapSSR and painted it black.

The power cords all come out one end. The other end, where the ethernet plugs in I put the cap on it. I drilled a hole just big enough the ethernet in the cap. Threaded it through and put the RJ45 end on it. I'll just store the ethernet cable with the cap. Thanks to kychristmas I used low profile RJ45 jacks on the DirkCheapSSRs - well worth it.

On the end with the power coming out I just filled it over with hotglue. About a glue stick a controller or a bit less.

These are hung in my arches with the power side up. http://www.edgewoodlights.com/wp-content/gallery/2012-display/DSCN2483.JPG

That saves on extension cord. If I turn them into fan arches they would hide better. I can always strap those up on to the lights easily out of view.

No problems with water getting in them and I've had enough rain to test that. I figure at worse any moisture would drain out the other end.

The first DirkCheapSSRs I built I put them in heat shrink tubing and sealed the ends with hotglue. They are in Vynil J-Channel under my eaves. No problems there either. Those are hard wired to the lights in the J-Channel. I probably won't hard wire them in again as I don't like it now that I can't easily just replace a DirkCheapSSR if there were a failure.


Jason

glaforce
12-13-2012, 09:39 AM
Following up on the Ground Stake enclosure I posted above, I also used 1" PVC Pipe to make bullet-style enclosures for DirkCheapSSRs for my Minitrees. 3" Piece of Pipe with a End Cap at the top. I actually hard-wired the Light strings to the SSR. I then used one of the Plugs I cutoff the strings to make an input cord.

So far, these are working great. Had a few issues working out how to get the whole SSR and wires to stay in the pipe. Once I discovered a Rubber Band worked great as a grommet and held them in place, I was good to go. So far only one faiure of a single Channel.



My minitrees now have one power cable and one SSR signal cable going to them and the enclosure hides will up in the tree. No TA-200 and Stake next to the mini trees as in previous years.


Edit: The picture shows the first one I did prior to adding the Rubber Band Grommet.


I used a thick heat shrink with a glue inside made by 3M. Its a 1" heat shrink and i almost have to drive the ssr into the tube using 1' conduit.

Just my 2 scents on your design


I like your design with it inside the minitree. Now if we could just come up witha way to put it in the tube of the arch i could free up a lot of ta200 ssr units for other things and have a cleaner look to my display.

Gary

CDN_Diesel
12-14-2012, 01:16 AM
is it one DCSSR per channel? For eg: my mini trees will be 3 colors each at 100ct strings. Would that be 3 DCSSR's per tree?

kychristmas
12-14-2012, 01:19 AM
is it one DCSSR per channel? For eg: my mini trees will be 3 colors each at 100ct strings. Would that be 3 DCSSR's per tree?

No. Like other SSRs, it's 4 channels per cheap SSR board. I have one unused channel in each of my trees.

CDN_Diesel
12-14-2012, 11:45 AM
thanks.

CaptKirk
12-14-2012, 05:36 PM
My 9 year old drinks a vitamin/protein shake like Ensure everyday (he is a picky eater). The bottle is white or clear depending on brand, has a wide enough opening to slip the DirkCheap in and then plug with a removable styrofoam plug. Open side down and zip-tied to the element and away we go. I'll post a picture when I can.

dirknerkle
12-14-2012, 06:11 PM
My 9 year old drinks a vitamin/protein shake like Ensure everyday...

That's what we need! A "senior" version of the DirkCheap! One for those of us who can't remember which side to put the chips on, or which way they go, or even where we put it after we finish assembling it! I can see the board now... no holes, no silkscreen markings.... no.... waitaminute... this is sounding like a fantastic companion to the DIGWDF Wireless Extension cord!

Hmmm... Lemmethinkonthis.... DirkCheapSrSSR ... hmmm..... where are those engineers when you really need 'em......

TomL8345
01-27-2013, 09:55 PM
I have taken a similar approach to some others in this thread, but I have refined it some more. First, I am adding a right angle RJ-45 jack to the board and bringing all the power cables down towards that end of the board. In this configuration the SSR will no longer fit inside a piece of 1" Sched 40 PVC pipe, but still fits nicely inside a 1" Tee fitting.

For the enclosure I cut two pieces of the 1" pipe approx 1" long, one is glued in one end of the Tee to connect and glue a cap, while the second piece I fit over the power cables before I attach my vampire plugs. I also attach a 1/2" elbow to the side outlet of the Tee and a length of 1/2" pipe to slip over rebar I pound into the ground.

When I am ready to set up the SSR, I slip my Cat-5 cable through the piece of pipe on power cables, and attach it to the SSR. I then slide the SSR into my enclosure and slide the loose piece of pipe into the bottom of the Tee without glue. The friction fit of this piece holds the SSR securely in the enclosure while allowing removal for servicing or storage.

I figure I have about $1.65 invested in each one of these enclosures, and a total of less than $9.00 per completed SSR.

CaptKirk
03-27-2013, 12:40 PM
That is pretty cool. I use a slightly different approach. I use these:

18770

Discard the cap (recycle), use upside down, stuff in the SSR, and just zip-tie them to an element. Stuff some Styrofoam in the opening around the wires and you have a cheap, water resistant enclosure. I have $0 in the container (I was recycling but now I reuse) and a few cents in the large zip-tie.

Also, because these are low power, the use of SPT core is a bit overkill, so I use the female plug end off old light strings (Home Depot gets a bunch of strings when they do the recycle thing), and/or cheap extension cords from the dollar store.

timon
03-27-2013, 07:51 PM
Nice idea and I have a twist for you. If someone is building mini or small mega trees out of 1/2 or 3/4 pipe you can take a snap/saddle "T" (http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Tees-Snap) and glue it to the the full "T". Now you can snap the controllers to the vertical of the tree. Same for any other vertical piece of PCV pipe for any other display element, just snap the snap "T" to the side. You can also get a few sizes at most Lowes stores.


I have taken a similar approach to some others in this thread, but I have refined it some more. First, I am adding a right angle RJ-45 jack to the board and bringing all the power cables down towards that end of the board. In this configuration the SSR will no longer fit inside a piece of 1" Sched 40 PVC pipe, but still fits nicely inside a 1" Tee fitting.

For the enclosure I cut two pieces of the 1" pipe approx 1" long, one is glued in one end of the Tee to connect and glue a cap, while the second piece I fit over the power cables before I attach my vampire plugs. I also attach a 1/2" elbow to the side outlet of the Tee and a length of 1/2" pipe to slip over rebar I pound into the ground.

When I am ready to set up the SSR, I slip my Cat-5 cable through the piece of pipe on power cables, and attach it to the SSR. I then slide the SSR into my enclosure and slide the loose piece of pipe into the bottom of the Tee without glue. The friction fit of this piece holds the SSR securely in the enclosure while allowing removal for servicing or storage.

I figure I have about $1.65 invested in each one of these enclosures, and a total of less than $9.00 per completed SSR.