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View Full Version : How do you mount cutouts on a slanted tile roof?



n8huntsman
08-28-2012, 11:32 PM
I made 9 reindeer, santa and sleigh and need to mount them on my roof similar to these: http://www.christmasdisplays.com/home.htm
Any ideas? My idea was to mount the bottom edge to a 2' x 4' piece of plywood. Use an angled support from the back of the cutout, down to the plywood. Then run some cable from the plywood up the roof to a wood part of my house. This will keep it from sliding down. I'd like to here more ideas if anyone has any. Here is a pic of my house indicating where they will go.
Thanks

dirknerkle
08-28-2012, 11:48 PM
Wow, you've really got a challenge there! Shazzzzbattt!!! It's not easy mounting on a tile roof like that... woof.... Sounds to me like you've got about the best idea. Only other one I can come up with is to run a strong wire cable across the whole width and fasten it to the sides of the house somehow, and then use some caribiners or other snap-hooks to link the roof elements to it. You'd probably still need something to keep it from sliding down, but at least this idea might give you something to anchor it to on the bottom...

n8huntsman
08-28-2012, 11:53 PM
Id like to use a hinge with removeable pin or some other type of quick connect to attach it to the plywood. This would make installation much easier. I can set the base by itself. Then place the cutout on the base and insert a pin. The only quick connect hinges I can find are $7.50 a piece. I need something like this: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LAMP-Hinge-4WDW1?Pid=search
That's too much for all the pieces I have.

dirknerkle
08-29-2012, 12:19 AM
How about some eye bolts through the plywood.... about a buck apiece at HD... Then just use a couple zip ties...

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100119118/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=eye+bolt&storeId=10051

chelmuth
08-29-2012, 07:02 AM
http://ressupply.com/store/solar-panel-mountinAg-hardware/roof-and-ground-mounts/unirac-905011c-0001-front-mount-creotec-roof-tile-hook-qty-1

i know THESE are expensive but with your machining ability i figure you could make something similar fairly cheaply.. just angle the part of the bracket that is visible back at an angle opposite the slope of the roof then just put a pin (bolt) into the plywood and use it as a holder by rotating the the bolt into the hole..

15135

Forgive the horrible paint brush drawing at 7am.

boyelroy11
08-29-2012, 07:45 AM
I have no solution for the problem at hand, but that is a sweet El Camino...

Carry on.

BuzzKill
08-29-2012, 11:44 AM
Go past the ends of the roof line. Attach pipe floor flanges under the tile line on either side to the bargeboards or fascia boards. Get some short nipples and a 90 elbows to extend the pipe out past where the tile over hangs the roof. Then attach a longer pipe to go up and attache the display to the uprights on either side. Drill the pipe through the elbow and at the flange to prevent the pipe from rotating. I would use galvanized, not PVC, for strength.

n8huntsman
08-29-2012, 02:38 PM
Go past the ends of the roof line. Attach pipe floor flanges under the tile line on either side to the bargeboards or fascia boards. Get some short nipples and a 90 elbows to extend the pipe out past where the tile over hangs the roof. Then attach a longer pipe to go up and attache the display to the uprights on either side. Drill the pipe through the elbow and at the flange to prevent the pipe from rotating. I would use galvanized, not PVC, for strength.

I'm a bit concerned about the amount of weight and torque that would apply to the fascia. I also have to think about whether I want them that close to the edge of the roof, or pushed further back and up towards the window.
Thanks for all the ideas. Times tickin'. I gotta get something figured out by this weekend!

n_gifford
08-29-2012, 03:19 PM
Id like to use a hinge with removeable pin or some other type of quick connect to attach it to the plywood. This would make installation much easier. I can set the base by itself. Then place the cutout on the base and insert a pin. The only quick connect hinges I can find are $7.50 a piece. I need something like this: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LAMP-Hinge-4WDW1?Pid=search
That's too much for all the pieces I have.

The quick connect hinges are nice, but definitely not necessary for the price. What about a standard interior door hinge with removable pin? This one from HD is under $2/each.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=203447338&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&MERCH=REC-_-NavPLPHorizontal1-2-_-NA-_-203447338-_-N#.UD5q_ZMj5c0

BuzzKill
08-29-2012, 06:07 PM
I'm a bit concerned about the amount of weight and torque that would apply to the fascia. I also have to think about whether I want them that close to the edge of the roof, or pushed further back and up towards the window.

Use long enough lag bolts or screws to go into the header boards underneath. Keep the nipple from the flange to the elbow and the upright as short as possible and you minimize the leverage on the flange and your fascia boards. It makes it a "sheer" load as long as your load is not pushing out onto the uprights, which in this case you are not. I have used this technique before for a porch overhang and it was bomb proof. the weight of the display is on the roof. It is only being "propped up" with the wire that runs along the back. Those tiles can be a pain in the ____. If anything tugs on them they can slip out from under each other. But you have probably already learned this.

You could also do something with just wood with a "cleat" and 2x4 bolted under the tile line on either side of the garage there too if you don't want to use pipe. Then you make a cleat that runs the width of the roof for the display to "slide down too, and then the back side is on the wire so it is free standing. So the load is on the roof and the wire is holding it upright. Anyway .. you get the idea.

15144 15143

n8huntsman
08-29-2012, 07:18 PM
Ahh, I gotcha now. Misunderstood at first. Clever idea.

CaptKirk
08-29-2012, 07:50 PM
Whacha do is get a big box of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Primesource-12SPK5-5LB-Spike-Nail/dp/B000XBTMJQ

And secure the elements into your roof.

Then you get a 55 gallon drum roof tar and tar up the broken tiles and voila it is christmas 24x7x365 on your roof!!

:freak:

And to store them, you just leave 'em and move.... :hmm:

jpb
08-30-2012, 11:39 PM
I don't know how easy it is to slide your tiles, and having curved ones my solution may not work but this is how I hold things one my roof. It goes up up under the tile and has a nail through the bracket, through the tile and into the batten. I leave the brackets up all year and against the black roof you can only see them if you are looking for them.


Jon

lightman
08-31-2012, 12:24 AM
I don't know how easy it is to slide your tiles, and having curved ones my solution may not work but this is how I hold things one my roof. It goes up up under the tile and has a nail through the bracket, through the tile and into the batten. I leave the brackets up all year and against the black roof you can only see them if you are looking for them.


Jon

Is that a custom made bracket....or store bought?

I have curved tile also. Lots of sand bags seemed to be the only way to hold things down.

I still haven't mounted my Bethlehem star yet...due to tile concerns. I pit it on tetherball pole instead.

Regards,
Lightman

jpb
09-02-2012, 05:44 AM
custom, out of the back shed. Very easy, you don't need to weld the link of chain on, just a hole or a hole with an eye bolt through it would do.

I have been thinking and to suit the curved tiles you could make the bracket out of a light gauge steel but wider. Then, after creating the 90 degree bend (in a vise with a hammer) you could lay the base of the bracket on something solid with a similar curve to the tiles and use a hammer to encourage the base of the bracket to take the same shape as the tile. It should then slip between the tiles.

Jon