PDA

View Full Version : Couple questions about the firegod dimmer



jcizek
01-02-2008, 12:54 PM
Couple quick questions. I had a set of boards made from the PCBexpress files found in the main thread here. I have run into a few issues since the BOM doesn't match the PCB's very well but think I have most of those issues ironed out (is there a correct BOM or PCB file that matches the other??)
I made a few assumptions based on part count, and was hoping that all the non-polarized caps on the main PC board are 1uF including the one nearest the regulator. Since there are only (5) 1UF caps listed on the BOM and there are (6) spaces on the PCB, but all 6 spaces used the same package case, I assumed that the 6th (nearest the regulator) was also a 1uf.

So basically I have 2 questions. 1) On the field module, while looking at the top of the PCB with the RJ45 feed jack to the right side, which cap is the 1uF and which one if the .1uF Left or Right cap is 1uf?

Second question, Am I correct in assuming that the pin header blocks are for setting the field module;'s address? If so, what jumpers go where to make it what? Many thanks! Can't wait to get this up and running! I have only those 2 caps to solder in on the field module and I should hopefully have a working system!
(Figured that even if it is after Christmas, I have a whole year to perfect my display before putting it up!!!!) 8-) -James

jcizek
01-03-2008, 07:09 PM
OK, I figured out the caps and their placement on my own. But I have searched this forum, the net, and every other forum I can find and I can come up with NO docs about the jumpers on the field modules (other than too remove them for sinking code which I am not using) Anyone at all help me with the jumpers?? Thanks. -James

LRNeener
01-03-2008, 07:42 PM
What ver of the BOM do you have?

You jumper them for the channels you want that field module to control.
Channels 01-32 = Jumper 1
Channels 33-64 = Jumper 2
Channels 65-96 = Jumper 3
Channels 97-128 = Jumper 4
If your not using the sinking code you only need 1 jumper per board. If your using the sinking code you jumper them all but the one you want to control.

Camron

jcizek
01-03-2008, 10:47 PM
Thanks for the info on the jumpers. Not sure what version of BOM is, I got the BOM and the board files from the thread on this forum called "128 Channel PIC Dimmer System"
It looks like the BOM is accurate for whatever board is pictured on that thread (which I think is a newer version since the heatsink has a place to mount to the PCB) The ExpressPCB files listed on that thread have part numbers nothing like the BOM. For example, there are only 2 resistor names listed, 4 of them are all called R5 and 10 of them are called R6. The caps are all wrong also. That's why I was having trouble at first. I am pretty sure I have it all ironed out, I had to trace out the PCB and build a schematic from that to figure what values of parts mostly likely went where. I guess I'll know when I put power to this thing!! Thanks for the assistance on the jumpers. -James

Greg in Canby
01-03-2008, 11:19 PM
Thanks for the info on the jumpers. Not sure what version of BOM is, I got the BOM and the board files from the thread on this forum called "128 Channel PIC Dimmer System"
It looks like the BOM is accurate for whatever board is pictured on that thread (which I think is a newer version since the heatsink has a place to mount to the PCB) The ExpressPCB files listed on that thread have part numbers nothing like the BOM. For example, there are only 2 resistor names listed, 4 of them are all called R5 and 10 of them are called R6. The caps are all wrong also. That's why I was having trouble at first. I am pretty sure I have it all ironed out, I had to trace out the PCB and build a schematic from that to figure what values of parts mostly likely went where. I guess I'll know when I put power to this thing!! Thanks for the assistance on the jumpers. -James

Do me a favor please, take good notes. I'm going to start on mine soon and you sound WAY smarter then me.

Thanks,
Greg

jcizek
01-04-2008, 11:38 AM
Greg, my last few pieces are coming in from Mouser on monday for the SSR's. (I designed some SSR boards that "plug" straight into the back of a duplex outlet, 2 channels per outlet, 4 channels per 4" square conduit box.) Once I have those parts I will fire up the dimmer and see if any magic smoke comes out. If my parts assumptions were correct, I'll post a BOM that matches the PCBexpress files posted in Firegod's original thread. After further research, I think that the BOM listed now *is* the correct one for the boards that were part of the coop buy. I don't have any of those boards as I made my own so I don't know that for sure, but it appears that that is the case! Will let you know more after I have my SSR parts early next week! -James

jcizek
01-11-2008, 12:23 PM
Greg, finally had some time to finish up the dimmer and also had some conversation with FG about some issues I was having. End result: It works!! So if you are planning on using the older board that is listed in the original thread (the one FG includes expresspcb filse for) this the parts correction:
On the PC interface board: All diodes marked D1 are 1N4007. The diode marked D2 is the 5.1V zener. Capacitors C1, and all marked C3 are 1uf. C2 is the 2200uf and C4 is the 100uf. All resistors marked R5 are 1.2K and all marked R6 are 150ohm. U1 is the MAX232 chip and U2 is the AND gate. The rest of the parts are either marked correctly, or are blatently obvious.

On the field module:
C1 is the 0.1 uF cap and C3 is a 1.0uF. R6 is a 150ohn resistor and all marked R7 are 2.2K resistors. All other parts are either obvious or correct.

Remember to install your LED's correctly according to which source code you use:
Long LED lead in the square hole for SOURCING code, or long LED lead in the round hole for SINKING code!

Good luck, and if FG is reading this forum, thanks for the pointers!!! -James

Greg in Canby
01-11-2008, 08:48 PM
Copy, paste, print. Got it. Thank you very much.

Greg