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tstraub
03-20-2012, 10:06 PM
Well I recently decided that I wanted to get into doing some stuff for Halloween in addition to My Christmas display. After researching talking skulls I found a very simple circuit for taking and audio signal and converting it to drive the jaw servo of a skull. So I went ahead and put together a home etched version of that circuit. The circuit is very inexpensive to build and works very well.

Here is a link to the original circuit http://www.scary-terry.com/audioservo/audioservo.htm

and here is a video of it in action https://vimeo.com/38889756

If anyone is interested in the etch files I should have them ready in a few weeks. The prototype that I have built works good but the board file needs some adjustments to make it a little easier to build.

I would also like to thank Halstaff for providing me with the audio file and answering all of my noob questions about Halloween props.

Tyler

dirknerkle
03-20-2012, 10:17 PM
Nice job, Tyler! Very, very effective, and responsive. Not having to program every move makes it more dynamic -- hook up a microphone and go for it!

Well done, my friend! I'll be looking for those home-etch layouts!!!

Greg in Canby
03-20-2012, 10:46 PM
Tyler,

I'm really happy with that circuit and have used it 4 or 5 seasons now!

Thank you for putting together a home etch option . . . You rock!

tstraub
03-23-2012, 06:57 AM
Just a little update:

I believe I have a more etch friendly version of this board. The mounting holes are space to fit a TA200 enclosure. I will try to build one this weekend to test it. I think I will change the name on this project to avoid any confusion between this design and the one designed by Cowlacious (http://www.cowlacious.com/products/Scary-Terry-Audio-Servo-Driver-Board-%252d-ST400.html). the new name will be Simple Sound to Servo.

13542

Mactayl
03-23-2012, 10:48 AM
Just a little update:

I believe I have a more etch friendly version of this board. The mounting holes are space to fit a TA200 enclosure. I will try to build one this weekend to test it. I think I will change the name on this project to avoid any confusion between this design and the one designed by Cowlacious (http://www.cowlacious.com/products/Scary-Terry-Audio-Servo-Driver-Board---ST400.html). the new name will be Simple Sound to Servo.

13542


Looks nice Tyler,,, and the name SIMPLE Sound to Servo sounds great...:thup:

tstraub
03-24-2012, 01:31 PM
OK new layout is built and tested. I love this little board I am still surprised at how well it works for such a simple little circuit. This layout is much better for the home etchers. I will even post a picture of the back side on this one. trust me nobody wants to see all the shorts I had to fix to get the first board going. Etch files will be added to the File Library as soon as I get the silk screen layer ironed out and a BOM put together.

13563 13564

Tyler

tstraub
03-24-2012, 07:17 PM
I added the etch files to the copper section of the File Library and got a BOM together. All parts were sourced from taydaelectronics.com 1 BOM will populate 2 Simple Sound to Servo Boards. I made the BOM as a double because just one does not meet the $5 minimum order. So I guess you have to build 2. You will also have a few left over resistors due to the fact that Tayda requires minimum of 10 each value. The only part that I have not tested is the 3.5mm audio Jack. This jack was an after though and is meant to be mounted as a pass threw connector on your enclosure that way you don't need to open the enclosure to plug your audio cable in.

You will also need a few shunts. Tayda does not carry them or at least I could not find them. I just grab them out of old disc drives and motherboards.

Part qty price subtotal

220K OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor 10 $0.01 $0.10
100nF 0.1uF 100V 5% Mylar Film Capacitor 8 $0.05 $0.40
1K OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor 10 $0.01 $0.10
47K OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor 10 $0.01 $0.10
5K OHM Trimpot Variable Resistor 6mm 2 $0.06 $0.12
1K OHM Trimpot Variable Resistor 6mm 2 $0.06 $0.12
10K OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor 20 $0.01 $0.20
1N914 Small Signal Diode 200mA 100V 2 $0.02 $0.04
LM1458N LM1458 1458 IC DUAL OPERATIONAL AMPLIFIER 2 $0.49 $0.98
10uF 25V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor 5x11mm 2 $0.01 $0.02
2.2K OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor 10 $0.01 $0.10
CD4066 4066 IC CMOS QUAD BILATERAL SWITCH 2 $0.22 $0.44
470 OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor 10 $0.01 $0.10
4.7K 4K7 OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor 10 $0.01 $0.10
22K OHM 1/4W 5% Carbon Film Resistor 10 $0.01 $0.10
50K OHM Trimpot Variable Resistor 6mmE 4 $0.06 $0.24
10nF 0.01uF 100V 5% Mylar Film Capacitors 2 $0.04 $0.08
NE555 IC 555 Timer DIP-8 2 $0.13 $0.26
2.2uF 50V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor 5x11mm 2 $0.01 $0.02
4.7uF 16V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor 5x11mm 2 $0.01 $0.02
2N3904 NPN General Propose Transistor 2 $0.01 $0.02
LED 3mm Red 4 $0.02 $0.08
40 Pin 2.54 mm Single Row Pin Header Strip 1 $0.15 $0.15
DG301 Screw Terminal Block 3 Positions 5mm 2 $0.15 $0.30
DG301 Screw Terminal Block 2 Positions 5mm 2 $0.10 $0.20
14 pin DIP IC Socket Adaptor Solder Type 2 $0.05 $0.10
8 pin DIP IC Socket Adaptor Solder Type 4 $0.02 $0.08
3.5mm Stereo Enclosed Socket 2 $0.22 $0.44

Total $5.01

tstraub
03-25-2012, 07:23 PM
I started work on a Wiki page to help out the ones eager enough to give this one a try. http://doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Simple_Sound_to_Servo

Tyler

dirknerkle
03-26-2012, 12:39 PM
Tyler,

I was thinking that it might be nice for folks who are color challenged to have a parts placement layout as well as the photos. You probably have this in your Eagle layout and you could just print the top layer with parts assignments to disk (or screen capture), add it to your Wiki page, and that would really be a help. Also, since this is another form of a "controller" maybe you could add it to the table of contents for Electronics. Just an idea...

tstraub
03-27-2012, 06:02 PM
Thanks for the suggestion Dave. Wiki page has been updated with more info.

here is a video (https://vimeo.com/39214732) just playing around for all to enjoy

Tyler

Edit

Well as a guy that believes in giving credit where credit is due. I thought I was doing an OK job updating the Wiki. Then the wiki clean up crew came threw and really made it look great. Thank you Jack for making a Simple minded guy like me look like I know what I'm doing.

JackFrost
04-02-2012, 09:18 AM
For those of us that don't home etch , any chance you having these PCB's made up and selling them to the members here ?

tstraub
04-11-2012, 07:21 PM
For those of us that don't home etch , any chance you having these PCB's made up and selling them to the members here ?


I am not going to do a board house version of this board. However, Halstaff is doing a small run of these for his Halloween Make and Take. He said he will likely have a few extras for sale.

hollandlihjtdisplay
04-16-2012, 08:25 AM
i have one of the scary terrys manufactured boards that you can buy on his site somewhere. I quit using it because i started trying to go computer controlled servos.

LightUpMA
07-29-2012, 06:13 PM
Trying to figure out where I went wrong with building a simple audio to servo scary terry servo board. Anyone familiar?? I have it powered and it manages to close the mouth and that's it. Changing the threshold and gain do nothing. Led stays bright red the whole time powered with 5v 1a.

tstraub
07-29-2012, 06:48 PM
Wayne,

You state that the LED is on all the time and the servo is driving the jaw closed. This sounds odd to me while the LED is on the jaw should be driving open. that could be as simple as moving your linkage to the other side of the Servo horn. Now about the circuit always staying triggered I suspect something is wrong with the amplifier section of the circuit. I would suggest that you try removing the LM4858 audio amplifier chip and see if the light turns off. With the chip removed the LED should be off and the servo should drive to the closed position. If that checks normal with the amp chip still removed short pins 7 and 8 of the amplifier socket together. This will trigger the 4066N switch and the LED should come on and jaw will open. Try these tests and let me know your results

Tyler

Edit:
I see from your PM that you constructed this circuit on a Radio Shack PCB(good for you a real DIYer) if you could post a picture it might be helpful or at least interesting. I would be happy to look over your work and see if you missed a wire or got a wrong pin somewhere.

LightUpMA
07-29-2012, 07:22 PM
Wayne,

You state that the LED is on all the time and the servo is driving the jaw closed. This sounds odd to me while the LED is on the jaw should be driving open. that could be as simple as moving your linkage to the other side of the Servo horn. Now about the circuit always staying triggered I suspect something is wrong with the amplifier section of the circuit. I would suggest that you try removing the LM4858 audio amplifier chip and see if the light turns off. With the chip removed the LED should be off and the servo should drive to the closed position. If that checks normal with the amp chip still removed short pins 7 and 8 of the amplifier socket together. This will trigger the 4066N switch and the LED should come on and jaw will open. Try these tests and let me know your results

Tyler

Edit:
I see from your PM that you constructed this circuit on a Radio Shack PCB(good for you a real DIYer) if you could post a picture it might be helpful or at least interesting. I would be happy to look over your work and see if you missed a wire or got a wrong pin somewhere.


Thanks!! I tried your suggestions. Nothing changed when I took out the 1485 chip - light on jaw closed. Same thing when I shorted 7 and 8. Also checked for solder bridge there no e existed.

14731
http://img.tapatalk.com/4b435e97-c61b-949a.jpg

LightUpMA
07-29-2012, 07:27 PM
Also my homemade plug. I noticed my 20 iPod plugs we have laying around are 5v 1a so I cut a cord that I wasn't using and voila instant bucky power


14732
14733

Also I might add I used a carved out piece of PVC scrap to mount and cut a wire cost hanger instead of piano wire.

All the wires are rescued from a 2ft section of a 50ft cat5 cable I cut in 2 for a couple floods.

tstraub
07-29-2012, 07:59 PM
OK try removing the 4066N chip. LED should go out jaw should close.
Short pins 1 and 2 of the 4066 socket LED should come on.
Short pins 10 and 11 of the 4066 socket Jaw should open

let me know your results

LightUpMA
07-29-2012, 08:29 PM
OK try removing the 4066N chip. LED should go out jaw should close.
Short pins 1 and 2 of the 4066 socket LED should come on.
Short pins 10 and 11 of the 4066 socket Jaw should open

let me know your results

I should put the other chip back in first right?

LightUpMA
07-29-2012, 08:36 PM
OK try removing the 4066N chip. LED should go out jaw should close.
Short pins 1 and 2 of the 4066 socket LED should come on.
Short pins 10 and 11 of the 4066 socket Jaw should open

let me know your results

So I put the other chip back took out 4066. 1 and 2 makes led come on. 10 and 11 nothing.

LightUpMA
07-29-2012, 09:41 PM
Is there a way to test voltage on the 3 pins for the servo? To see if output is correct.

tstraub
07-29-2012, 10:37 PM
Pin 3 of the servo header is a PWM signal and would require a scope to get a proper reading. I have been looking at your picture and am having trouble following the wiring. Its difficult to tell where all of the wires go. I see several very large solder blobs that may be shorts but I cant tell for sure. I think the best thing to do at this point is get a meter out and start taking some readings.

you should have 5 volts at the following places:
LM4558 pin #8
4066 pin #14
555 pin #4 and 8

with the power disconnected you should have 0 ohms of resistance to ground at the following places:

LM4558 pin #4
4066 pins 2,5,6, and 7
555 pin 1

hollandlihjtdisplay
07-29-2012, 11:18 PM
Is there a way to test voltage on the 3 pins for the servo? To see if output is correct.
Yea 2 pins should be power, and one signal.
B= -
R= +
Y= Signal
You can use a voltage meter to make sure the voltage is correct by sticking the probes on B and R. But y requires a different tactic.

LightUpMA
07-30-2012, 07:41 AM
Pin 3 of the servo header is a PWM signal and would require a scope to get a proper reading. I have been looking at your picture and am having trouble following the wiring. Its difficult to tell where all of the wires go. I see several very large solder blobs that may be shorts but I cant tell for sure. I think the best thing to do at this point is get a meter out and start taking some readings.

you should have 5 volts at the following places:
LM4558 pin #8
4066 pin #14
555 pin #4 and 8

with the power disconnected you should have 0 ohms of resistance to ground at the following places:

LM4558 pin #4
4066 pins 2,5,6, and 7
555 pin 1

Well the big blobs are solder bridges between two points close by that are suppose to be connected. I'm so frustrated lol. I remember reading a while back about a board house that will build small boards I think 3x3 for low fees. About to have one made up.

I'll do those tests u suggested and then make sure no solder bridges.

Thanks again Tyler!

LightUpMA
07-30-2012, 09:29 AM
.

you should have 5 volts at the following places:
LM4558 pin #8
4066 pin #14
555 pin #4 and 8

with the power disconnected you should have 0 ohms of resistance to ground at the following places:

LM4558 pin #4
4066 pins 2,5,6, and 7
555 pin 1


I have 5 volts at all those places but oddly I tested red and black pins for servo output and found 9v!

LightUpMA
07-30-2012, 09:57 AM
Pin 3 of the servo header is a PWM signal and would require a scope to get a proper reading. I have been looking at your picture and am having trouble following the wiring. Its difficult to tell where all of the wires go. I see several very large solder blobs that may be shorts but I cant tell for sure. I think the best thing to do at this point is get a meter out and start taking some readings.

you should have 5 volts at the following places:
LM4558 pin #8
4066 pin #14
555 pin #4 and 8

with the power disconnected you should have 0 ohms of resistance to ground at the following places:

LM4558 pin #4
4066 pins 2,5,6, and 7
555 pin 1

Got it! Looks like the ground to the 3rd pin for servo output wasnt quite right. Thank u sooo much!! I'll send u a pic when its up an running.

Also can I submit a mirror image of board layout for ur wiki? I think having to reverse what I'm looking at to wire it caused the mistake. As soon as I was looking at the mirror image it became clear.

LightUpMA
07-30-2012, 10:43 AM
Here's a picture of the servo board (mirror image), as you would view it from the back for wiring purposes.


14741

tstraub
07-30-2012, 12:56 PM
I'm. Glad to hear you got it working

924aussie
06-16-2014, 07:13 AM
Does anyone know what happened to the scary terry boards or did anyone end up making a group of these up ?

LightUpMA
06-16-2014, 07:45 AM
I ended up making mine from a breadboard. It worked the first year but since then has not worked right. I would be interested in getting one of these made-up as well.

dirknerkle
06-18-2014, 10:30 PM
It's in the file library at least once....

http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=169&catid=8

Don6699
09-10-2014, 03:40 AM
Looks like Cowlishous my be out of business????? Tried to call them today and number does not work, So I through I would put one of these together tonight and here it is........

https://644db4de3505c40a0444-327723bce298e3ff5813fb42baeefbaa.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.c om/uploads/project/top_image/MwvJbEzC/i.png