Sorry, another question - about light control

[rrowan]

Hi Folks,

Currently my yard is a static display that is controlled by two switches in my house. Switch one is the main switch that lights up everything but the nativity scene and switch two lights up the nativity scene. Which has worked fine for years now. The main problem is when we are not home or come home late and the house is dark. I have a large amount of blown molds with some of the blubs with 40 and 60 watt lights.

I placed an order with john for a grinch and 16 ssroz. I was wondering if one of the ssr could act like my switches and turn on the static section of the display for next year? Maybe the ssr would power up a relay or something?

Thanks

Rick R.

[wbuehler]

Yes the SSR's can be used to switch on/off a light bulb. The SSR is what is known as a Solid State Relay. The Grinch is an on/off controller. Just watch the amount of power that you draw through the ssr channel. Normally users like to draw no more than one amp per channel. Users have loaded more than that but 1 amp is a safe bet. This is also related to if you use heat sinks or not on the Triacs. The Triacs are the componet in the SSR that is responsible for switching on/off the main supply voltage.

Bill

[rrowan]

Hi Bill,

Yeah I understand that part. What I want to do is computer control a 20amp circuit. I know the triacs can't handle that but if then just trigger a relay or something to power up the other things.

Thanks

Rick R.

[Macrosill]

Rick,
You could get a 20 amp relay off ebay. They have them in 125v load and 5v control. Some of us use them on a regular basis. They are what we refer to as "Hockey Puck type SSRs". They are usually rated something like 3-30v ac/dc for the control side and 48-300vac for the load side.

Some examples can be found Here at Crydom (http://www.crydom.com/products/productFamilyList.aspx?idProductLine=3)

[tfmacz]

Yes Rick,
you can control a relay with one of the SSR channels. One thing, the simple SSR circuits used here are good for "Resistive Loads". Light bulbs and stuff.

A relay coil is an "Inductive" load. To ensure the longevity of your SSR's A simple snubber circuit is all that is required.

I am using a circuit from some commercial equipment I had laying around.

The snubber circuit is consists of a 47ohm resister in series with a .068uf capacitor across the triac pins connected to the AC input/output.

Others, more qualified than I, may provide more accurate info, but this is what i have done.

The snubber is only required on circuits driving inductive loads. I have heard some coments that the snubber may also be required for circuits that are 100% LED lights. But have no info on this.

[ben]

I was just wondering, would it be possible to expand on this by having an SSR or two turn on all my breakers? I am going to put in a 125A subpanel and I woud like to be able to have Vixen turn it all on at 5:00 instead of needing to always turn them on since the comp will always be running.

Ben

[tfmacz]

Turn them on at 5:00 turn them off at 10:00,

Blink, Flash, What ever you want.

As someone else posted, there are High current (20Amp) SSR modules available.
Suitable Relay contactors can switch any load you want. SSR (Solid State Relay) modules don't make any noise when switching but there is nothing like the serious "KER-CHUNK" when a heavy contactor pulls in.

The whole point of Vixen and this whole project is to cause your lights to "blink" and "flash" to music.

If you have not seen them have a look at some of the videos posted in the "Showing Off" section of this forum.

http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1689

[ben]

Turn them on at 5:00 turn them off at 10:00,

Blink, Flash, What ever you want.

As someone else posted, there are High current (20Amp) SSR modules available.
Suitable Relay contactors can switch any load you want. SSR (Solid State Relay) modules don't make any noise when switching but there is nothing like the serious "KER-CHUNK" when a heavy contactor pulls in.

The whole point of Vixen and this whole project is to cause your lights to "blink" and "flash" to music.

If you have not seen them have a look at some of the videos posted in the "Showing Off" section of this forum.

http://www.christmasinshirley.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1689
I understand this I was just wanting everything to turn on and off by itself so I can just have the computer runing and not worry about it.

Ben

[DILA]

Why dont you just change out your 2 switches for a couple of security switches that have built in 24hr timers. Problem solved for under $40.

Bob

[tfmacz]

Why dont you just change out your 2 switches for a couple of security switches that have built in 24hr timers. Problem solved for under $40.

Bob

Beat me to it...
This is the simplest solution to your requirements...

[rrowan]

Why dont you just change out your 2 switches for a couple of security switches that have built in 24hr timers. Problem solved for under $40.

Bob

That is true... BUT... (hehehe)

I can't use vixen to shut down the "static lights" for any shows that way. Plus on Christmas eve after 11:30pm only the Nativity lights stay on. The rest go dark. Besides never confuse me with simple cheap ways when I can use one of my many computers to make it complex.

Thanks

Rick R.

[Ronp]

You can buy the hockey puck type ssrs that will run
you entire display controled buy vixen .
Just dedicate 1-2 chanels to the main power ssrs that turn on all .I have some of them that are 40amp .

[rrowan]

You can buy the hockey puck type ssrs that will run
you entire display controled buy vixen .
Just dedicate 1-2 chanels to the main power ssrs that turn on all .I have some of them that are 40amp .

Thanks Ronp,

Do you have the Manufacture and part numbers?

Rick R.