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vette=04
02-21-2011, 03:59 PM
Has anyone wired a Holdman Star wireframe? I purchased the larger one and want to light it with LED lights using the Lowe's conical shaped lights. I haven't figured out the best way to light it without wasting (light cap) too many lights. Any good ideas out there?

Thanks for the help!

griffixdc
02-21-2011, 04:32 PM
Has anyone wired a Holdman Star wireframe? I purchased the larger one and want to light it with LED lights using the Lowe's conical shaped lights. I haven't figured out the best way to light it without wasting (light cap) too many lights. Any good ideas out there?

Thanks for the help!

well i dont know how many lights are required per channel on the HOLDman Star but look at your light string every section where there are less wires like 2 or 3 as opposed to 3 or 4 are the break sections, where as the series of led's starts and finishes. thats where you can shorten the light strings to , next you will need a resistor to match the new voltage values if needed, most LED light strings are divided into 25 to 30 or even 50 light sections most common is 30 leds per section of the string. the other solution is that if can figure out the series wires you can cut it anywhere and jumper the series together might require a jumper wire and then most certainly have to place a resistor in that series to match the voltage differences :) hope that helps and its not you its me i know i am bad at explaining things :)

Matt_Edwards
02-21-2011, 05:38 PM
I used LED strings on my tree topper. I imagine construction will be the same.
have a look at the last 5 photos on photo gallery at http://baulkolites.com/wp/?p=227 Some where at home I have some videos of the star, I can dig them out and post a link

Skunberg
02-21-2011, 05:58 PM
I tried light clips (like deer use) and didn't like it. I'm planning to do it like Matt and plan it out the spacing for full strings of sizes available.

Brian

griffixdc
02-21-2011, 06:21 PM
have you thought about what i said make them to the length you want them or need them? then they will be consistent no larger spaces then others, no clustering effect of lights....custom length lights allows for even and non bulk light distribution but is time consuming ....matt's design is nice :)

vette=04
02-21-2011, 06:38 PM
Well yes, I thought about the idea of cutting to length and I also looked at Matt's design. Both are great ideas. It appears that cutting to length is the best idea as far as making it neat. With the Holdman star there are 3 different areas. A inner star and an outer star which take about 70 m5 lights with clips and 100 lights and I was able to clip lights to the back of the star to use up any spare...my biggest hurdle now is the beam rays of light...I have the lowe's 50 light set and each pair of beams won't take more than 20 lights ....so thats my dilema and probably the only way to go would be to cut...but Man thats a lot of work....I like Matt's star but in this case I'm thinking the beams of light are spread to far apart. the only other way I can see is to cap the lights I don't use.

griffixdc
02-21-2011, 06:44 PM
Well yes, I thought about the idea of cutting to length and I also looked at Matt's design. Both are great ideas. It appears that cutting to length is the best idea as far as making it neat. With the Holdman star there are 3 different areas. A inner star and an outer star which take about 70 m5 lights with clips and 100 lights and I was able to clip lights to the back of the star to use up any spare...my biggest hurdle now is the beam rays of light...I have the lowe's 50 light set and each pair of beams won't take more than 20 lights ....so thats my dilema and probably the only way to go would be to cut...but Man thats a lot of work....I like Matt's star but in this case I'm thinking the beams of light are spread to far apart. the only other way I can see is to cap the lights I don't use.

yeah capping lights works although a waste but if its like 5 maybe 10 not too big a deal :) certainly a lot easier... but with the money you spent on caps you could have spent on custom legth of lights with the price of resistors...OH soo many options and problems with every one :)

DaveJZ
02-21-2011, 08:54 PM
How many and number channels are on the rays? Would it be possible to cut and add wire to extend the spaces... then you could take a 50light strand and extend it to 3 rays... just a suggestion since I haven't really looked that close to the star.

griffixdc
02-21-2011, 09:16 PM
How many and number channels are on the rays? Would it be possible to cut and add wire to extend the spaces... then you could take a 50light strand and extend it to 3 rays... just a suggestion since I haven't really looked that close to the star.

i dont quit get what your saying....but regardless of LED or INcan's you will have to have a resistor if you change the amount of lights in the series. :) they calculated precisely to the understanding that power =120 volts RMS give or take at 5-10% tolerance

Matt_Edwards
02-21-2011, 09:20 PM
I like Matt's star but in this case I'm thinking the beams of light are spread to far apart. the only other way I can see is to cap the lights I don't use.
Not sure what you mean by this. The whole of my star glows.
Extra point that may be helpful.
Being a 3D Star, I use 3 channels to control it.
I started with 90ct stings and divided them into 5 (for each cord on 1/2 of the star). I marked every 18th LED and tied them into place. I then just add the remaining 17 LEDs to what was left of the star. I choose 90 because Kmart was selling 180 light strings and my gut feeling was 180 per half of a star was too many. (not much science there)

I would imagine you will do something similar. if 50 lights on the small radiance pointers may be too many, so try 25, Ie 1/2 of a single string. then try and add the same to minor pointers. the large pointer may take 75 lights.
bottom line it, experiment, experiment and try to use multiple of pre-made strings

DaveJZ
02-21-2011, 09:56 PM
What I was saying is take a strand of lights... cut the wires between two lights and add longer wires. That way you are only making the space between those lights longer and not changing the total count on the strand.

_____()_____()_____()_____()_____()_____()_____()_ ____()_____

_____()_____()_____()_____()______________________ ()_____()_____()_____()_____

The larger space one the lower one above is where the added wires would be. Basically your only changing the space between two bulbs.

This would allow you to go from one ray to another ray without capping,loosing, or changing the number of lights to a strand.:confused:

Somethings in ones head are easier when they are there and hard to write so another understands

griffixdc
02-21-2011, 10:09 PM
What I was saying is take a strand of lights... cut the wires between two lights and add longer wires. That way you are only making the space between those lights longer and not changing the total count on the strand.

_____()_____()_____()_____()_____()_____()_____()_ ____()_____

_____()_____()_____()_____()______________________ ()_____()_____()_____()_____

The larger space one the lower one above is where the added wires would be. Basically your only changing the space between two bulbs.

This would allow you to go from one ray to another ray without capping,loosing, or changing the number of lights to a strand.:confused:

Somethings in ones head are easier when they are there and hard to write so another understands

i completely understand what your saying and that will work if that method is needed :) but depending if more channels are wanted for a more illuminant effect to the blinky flashy dance that might not work.....great idea it just brings more flexibility when assembling his star to :)


no if he gets what your saying might be a different story but hopefully its likewise

Skunberg
02-21-2011, 11:10 PM
Most people use three channels with the Holdman or Bethlehem star, center star, outer star, and rays or beams of light. Your length problem between rays of light, just splice in some wire. It'll be a permanent installation anyway. Also when running lights up the rays, place every other light going up and fill in the others on the way down, then your only length issue is at the bottom between rays (towards the center).

Brian

griffixdc
02-21-2011, 11:21 PM
Most people use three channels with the Holdman or Bethlehem star, center star, outer star, and rays or beams of light. Your length problem between rays of light, just splice in some wire. It'll be a permanent installation anyway. Also when running lights up the rays, place every other light going up and fill in the others on the way down, then your only length issue is at the bottom between rays (towards the center).

Brian
i would think the issue after this would be the amount of lights per ray ....if you use a 100 count mini then your going to have a lot of lights (potentially have to shorten the string of wire eliminating the amount of lights)

dindallas
02-23-2011, 06:03 PM
What I was saying is take a strand of lights... cut the wires between two lights and add longer wires. That way you are only making the space between those lights longer and not changing the total count on the strand.

_____()_____()_____()_____()_____()_____()_____()_ ____()_____

_____()_____()_____()_____()______________________ ()_____()_____()_____()_____

Hopefully, this is not a stupid question and will not detract from the subject of this thread. Which method of spicing wire have people found to be the most efficient? Wire nuts, crimp on automotive connectors, solder joints with shrink tubing, or some other method. Does it depend on how many you are doing, whether the joint will flex or not, or is it just personal preference?

Thanks

dpitts
02-23-2011, 06:50 PM
I solder and heat shrink. Sometimes when I make two fifties out of 100's I will heat shrink over end and place a small amount of silicone to under heat shrink to seal the end.

budude
02-23-2011, 07:11 PM
You might look for the heat shrink with the glue inside of it - once it shrinks up, that baby is sealed for good!

Matt_Edwards
02-23-2011, 08:34 PM
Glue lined heat shrink mentioned by Bedude is great stuff, but not as freely available in both sizes and quantity as the thin walled stuff.
To make a waterproof seal, I use plain heat shrink and to begin with only shrink one end. stick your hot glue gun in the other end and give it a good squirt. Then as you shrink the rest of the tube, the glue melts and seeps out both ends as the rest of the tube shrinks.