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michaelc
12-18-2010, 02:21 AM
I don't know if anyone has chimed in on this topic or not. I just got my hands on a couple of enclosures. With shipping it was like $13 each. A bit more than if I bought bulk from the place going out of business, but I was able to just get 2.

http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/search.aspx?find=SK3766

Anyway, I don't want to puncture the back to mount nuts/bolts and standoffs so I am looking to make use of the internal mounting screws. I've got the dimension of the board I need and now I'm wondering what does everyone use to mount boards. I looked at some rigid plexiglass and it's more expensive than the enclosure. My thoughts were to use some scrap hardboard I have in the garage. Mount my PCB with Standoffs onto it, then just attache the hardboard to the internal mountings of the enclosure. This would allow me to remove the boards with out removing the enclosure from it's permanent mounted position on my outside wall.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

mikentn
12-18-2010, 03:07 AM
hardboard or luan works great as a backing board. I personally prefer 1/4" luan, seems to hold up better for screw threads, but ymmv.

michaelc
12-18-2010, 09:24 AM
Thx. I'm not too concerned with screw threads as I'm going to use Bolts from the back through holes into metal standoffs. And then bolts from the front directly into the molded holes in the enclosure.

I was more concerned with warping, expanding, etc.

kychristmas
12-18-2010, 09:49 AM
I use JB weld to glue DIY standoffs (plastic anchors) to the enclosure. Depending on the board, I usually have to trim the anchors to a shorter length before gluing.

I used Epoxy last year and almost all of the came loose.

Skunberg
12-18-2010, 09:52 AM
A common method here is to silicon wire nuts to the back as a stand off and screw to them.

budude
12-18-2010, 01:27 PM
I used 1/4" masonite boards cut to fit for the enclosure and drilled pilot holes to mount the masonite to it. I then placed my PCBs on top of this and marked where the holes would be and used standard machine screws/nuts (#8 I think) with refrigerator tubing spacers. I did this with my Ren16/DCSSR setup as well as 3x ACSSR boxes. Pretty easy to do but the other methods are just as good.

DIY Guy
12-18-2010, 09:19 PM
I use JB weld to glue DIY standoffs (plastic anchors) to the enclosure. Depending on the board, I usually have to trim the anchors to a shorter length before gluing.

I used Epoxy last year and almost all of the came loose.

Yup.. epoxy does not want to stick to the keptel enclosures.. i tried 2 different types.. it holds as long as you don't bump the board, but the slightest stress they pop.

Thanks for the tip on JB weld... next year...

mikentn
12-19-2010, 12:09 AM
I used 1/4" masonite boards cut to fit for the enclosure and drilled pilot holes to mount the masonite to it. I then placed my PCBs on top of this and marked where the holes would be and used standard machine screws/nuts (#8 I think) with refrigerator tubing spacers. I did this with my Ren16/DCSSR setup as well as 3x ACSSR boxes. Pretty easy to do but the other methods are just as good.

and FWIW, hardboard = masonite. ;) Least it's what I've always called hardboard.

DennyMo
12-20-2010, 12:10 PM
I use JB weld to glue DIY standoffs (plastic anchors) to the enclosure.
What kind of anchors? Drywall anchors, or something else? Thanks.

kychristmas
12-20-2010, 12:20 PM
What kind of anchors? Drywall anchors, or something else? Thanks.

I guess I would call them old style. The Red fluted kind. I think they would generally be used in masonary type walls. These are the straight ones, they do not taper to a point.

I also use yellow wire-nuts as someone else mentioned. The only issue with these is they are hard shorten and are sometimes to tall to allow everything to fit.


http://www.artistcraft.com/assets/images/thumbnails/HI15.jpg

lightman
12-20-2010, 01:43 PM
I too have had trouble with epoxy on the enclosures.

My method is to use hardwood dowel (~3/8 dia) cut off to ~1/2 in lengths. I drill small pilot hole to accomodate small pan head screw that fits PCB hole.

I screw the standoffs onto the board first, apply a good bead of hot glue to the bottom of each of the 4 wooden standoffs then press the board with standoffs attached onto the back of the enclosure.

This way the standoffs are perfectly registered to the PCB mounting.

I find the hot glue is more plyable and does not break free should the enclosure get stressed, bumped or twisted.

Yet another DIY technique....

Lightman

mikentn
12-20-2010, 01:59 PM
I too have had trouble with epoxy on the enclosures.

My method is to use hardwood dowel (~3/8 dia) cut off to ~1/2 in lengths. I drill small pilot hole to accomodate small pan head screw that fits PCB hole.

I screw the standoffs onto the board first, apply a good bead of hot glue to the bottom of each of the 4 wooden standoffs then press the board with standoffs attached onto the back of the enclosure.

This way the standoffs are perfectly registered to the PCB mounting.

I find the hot glue is more plyable and does not break free should the enclosure get stressed, bumped or twisted.

Yet another DIY technique....

Lightman


Unfortunately, hot glue gets brittle and can lose adhesion in cold temps.

michaelc
12-20-2010, 04:14 PM
Using the enclosure I purchased which was a Hoffman A14128CHSCFG/SPL there were 4 built in screw terminals, so I downloaded the specs and created my own panel insert out of hardboard/masonite. The terminals were already about 1/2" off the back of the enclosure. I then mounted the Ren to the masonite using standard nuts/bolts. In order to standoff the Ren from the masonite, I just used a couple pieces of scrap masonite as "Washers" behind each of the 4 screws. I'm planning on having this enclosure hold 2 REN48LSD and a DMX splitter.

Pics are on my facebook page:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=95739&id=1454836350&l=d89a0b0e2f

lightman
12-20-2010, 05:10 PM
Unfortunately, hot glue gets brittle and can lose adhesion in cold temps.

Good point. Living in Tucson with warmer temperatures has some advantages.

(except in the summer!)

Lightman

NORTHEASTER
12-20-2010, 11:27 PM
I used clear lexan for the board backer. Simple to drill holes in the right place as you can see them! I then mounted the REN board directly to the Lexan with small standoffs with screw holes in the top. Boards were screwed into place with machine screws into the top of the standoffs. These were small pieces of Lexan. I went to a glass company to by this and the pieces were so small that they just gave them to me from their scrap pile. You might find the same thing if you ask. (note the green LED's I added as AC power indicators)

Photos attached

Gary