PDA

View Full Version : ATX Adapter



ctmal
10-17-2010, 10:28 PM
I thought I'd post this just in case somebody else would have interest in it. I know I've gotten a ton from this website so I feel I should always give back it there's a chance.

Just as a warning, I'm not any kind of electronics guru so if there's any input as to any dangers, etc. feel free to chime in.

I was "challenged" by my neighbor to do a Halloween competition this year against her. To light up my cemetary I made a couple of led spotlights and am running them from my dc renard(in another post). Because of this I needed a 12 volt dc power supply capable of supplying at least 3 amps. I decided to use an ATX pc power supply but I wasn't comfortable opening one up and making modifications. Also I wanted something that would be easily transferable if the power supply went bad. There are many versions of this found with a google search but I couldn't find a anything I could etch myself or easily buy the board myself. So I made my own.

Here's a link to the files for download:
http://ctm.maloneylights.com/downloads/?category=4

ctmal
10-17-2010, 10:36 PM
Here's the file for my setup.

Everything was created in ExpressPCB. I've included those files and the files anyone would need to self etch the board.

As for the BOM, all of the common parts are the same as any spare parts you may have left over from Renard SS series controller(i.e. 180 ohm resistor, terminal blocks). The only differences are the ATX connector(it's from Molex, I haven't looked whether Mouser sells it) and the power resistor which I got from Radio Shack.

On the board I've included a terminal block called power switch. This connection is necessary to turn on the ATX power supply. I did it this way so there was an option to connect a switch to turn it on and off but if you didn't want this would could just connect a jumper wire to make it constant on.

ctmal
10-17-2010, 10:39 PM
Since I'm doing so well on my little rant here...;)

My biggest concern was the temperature of the power resistor. I went out and got an infrared thermometer to check it. Turns out the highest temperature I read was 105 F and a normal temperature in the 90's. The power resistor is rated for up to 150 F.

Wayne J
10-17-2010, 11:32 PM
Cool little board. I like it.

n1ist
10-18-2010, 11:38 AM
71-CP001010R00JE14 looks like a Mouser substitute for the power resistor.

Do you want the LED on +5 Standby? That line is hot even when the power switch on pin 14 is off. Or maybe add one to +5 as well so you know when the power supply is actually on.
/mike

ctmal
10-18-2010, 12:03 PM
71-CP001010R00JE14 looks like a Mouser substitute for the power resistor.

Do you want the LED on +5 Standby? That line is hot even when the power switch on pin 14 is off. Or maybe add one to +5 as well so you know when the power supply is actually on.
/mike

Cool on the resistor!

I have the LED on standby to let me know when the power supply is getting power(in otherwords keep your hands away). I figure in most cases the board will be enclosed in a case so the "power on" led wouldn't be visible. A PowerOn led can easily be added to the case(or peripheral board) and wired to the +5 volt terminal.

Jrd
03-26-2012, 07:29 PM
Do you have any pictures of this board? I am interested in doing something similar and would like to see how your's turned out.

dirknerkle
03-26-2012, 09:14 PM
I'm not seeing any of Chris' attachments. They all come across as clear.gif

Also, I have a copy of AussiePhil's ATX power adapter kit that might be very similar. Don't know if Phil has any of them left... it says copyright 2008 so I imagine he may.

Aurbo99
03-26-2012, 09:45 PM
Same issue as Dirk

I also have Phil's ATX adapter files from 2008/09 and have used it ever since, powers my Radio, LedTriks and Ren16Xmus units.

http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8828&d=1252111332

ctmal
03-26-2012, 11:21 PM
I'm not seeing any of Chris' attachments. They all come across as clear.gif

Also, I have a copy of AussiePhil's ATX power adapter kit that might be very similar. Don't know if Phil has any of them left... it says copyright 2008 so I imagine he may.

None of my attachments seem to work ever since the site crashed. I've also had problems reloading them. You should be able to find anything you need at http://ctm.maloneylights.com/downloads/

Let me know if you need anything else and I'll be sure to send it to you.

Jrd
03-27-2012, 04:49 PM
Same issue as Dirk

I also have Phil's ATX adapter files from 2008/09 and have used it ever since, powers my Radio, LedTriks and Ren16Xmus units.

That's basically what I'm looking to make! Did he have a thread for that board? Or is there more info somewhere?

Chris, I was looking for pictures of your board.

ctmal
03-27-2012, 08:27 PM
That's basically what I'm looking to make! Did he have a thread for that board? Or is there more info somewhere?

Chris, I was looking for pictures of your board.

I thought I had some up on my website but it looks like I was wrong. I'll get some posted here(hopefully tonight).

RavingLunatic
03-27-2012, 09:00 PM
That's basically what I'm looking to make! Did he have a thread for that board? Or is there more info somewhere?

Chris, I was looking for pictures of your board.


Ricky,

I don't believe Aussiephil ever made a post on DIYC for that project.

He did post about it on DLA: http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=289.0


Hope this is what you are looking for!
RL

ctmal
03-27-2012, 10:03 PM
I added a picture of the board to the 1st post. Basically the board gives you access to 12v, 5v, and 3.3v. The big resistor basically puts a load on the power supply as most supplies suggest you do. The top middle connector(the blue one) is where you would connect a switch if you would like to have that function. For now I'm just bypassing it by connecting a wire(as you see in the picture).
The led on the board will light anytime there is power coming to the board whether any loads are attached or not.

ctmal
03-27-2012, 10:09 PM
I also just added a picture of the back of the board. I did a pretty sloppy soldering job...
It's a really easy board to self etch.

Jrd
03-28-2012, 05:35 PM
Thanks for the pics Chris!


Ricky,

I don't believe Aussiephil ever made a post on DIYC for that project.

He did post about it on DLA: http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=289.0


Hope this is what you are looking for!
RL

Thanks RL, that is what I was looking for.

CaptKirk
03-28-2012, 05:50 PM
Might want to keep in mind that not everyone can access information on that other site. It is NOT open to everyone- it is very closely restricted by the controlling owner who happens to have a very thin skin for people he feels annoys him with pesky things like real technical questions about his stuff, or humor from anyone NOT in his inner circle. Just sayin'...

Blackbeard
03-29-2012, 08:04 AM
I'm really thinking I need to change my site name to "ConfusedAllTheTime" or something like that.

I went to your site and only see the expresspcb files or whatever they're made from. Do you have a printable schematic file and PDFs of the front and back layers?

Thanks

LabRat
03-29-2012, 08:26 AM
In the thread that was linked (you must have an account to see them) there's a posting with PDF for the copper (bottom), Silk Screen (top), and Parts Placement (circular recycle bin).

http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=289.0

There's also a mouser BOM in both text format *and* an excel spreadsheet (if that floats your boat).

ctmal
03-29-2012, 08:39 AM
I'm really thinking I need to change my site name to "ConfusedAllTheTime" or something like that.

I went to your site and only see the expresspcb files or whatever they're made from. Do you have a printable schematic file and PDFs of the front and back layers?

Thanks
I can make them up for you today. It's probably a good idea to include them in the zip file so anyway.

Skunberg
03-29-2012, 08:45 AM
Might want to keep in mind that not everyone can access information on that other site. It is NOT open to everyone- it is very closely restricted by the controlling owner who happens to have a very thin skin for people he feels annoys him with pesky things like real technical questions about his stuff, or humor from anyone NOT in his inner circle. Just sayin'...

So you are one of many here that's been kicked off that site for asking a technical question.

Brian

ctmal
03-29-2012, 09:25 AM
Turns out I did have the pdf files uploaded but something was wacky on my website so you couldn't download it. It's fixed now.

Here's the link.
http://ctm.maloneylights.com/downloads/?category=4

RavingLunatic
03-29-2012, 09:49 AM
Might want to keep in mind that not everyone can access information on that other site. It is NOT open to everyone- it is very closely restricted by the controlling owner who happens to have a very thin skin for people he feels annoys him with pesky things like real technical questions about his stuff, or humor from anyone NOT in his inner circle. Just sayin'...


So you are one of many here that's been kicked off that site for asking a technical question.

Brian


This should stop right here before it goes any further. This thread is not about anybody's personal feelings/opinions about another site. The fact is that the info resides there and if you have a problem with that then don't go looking for it. This thread is not about providing a platform to bash another site.

jimmy
03-29-2012, 11:12 AM
i could not even see the forum after i signed in on the other site. But i did find this while trying to search for the files.
http://www.jordandsp.com/ATX-bench-top-power-supply-adapter.php

Jrd
03-29-2012, 10:12 PM
Nice find Jimmy.

Zeph
03-30-2012, 05:37 PM
The Jordan Engineering Technologies board for ATX power supplies looks useful - but from what I gather one should not expect to tap the full +5 and +12 power available using just the motherboard connector. If you want all the amps the supply can put out, it would be good to get some of the current via the 4-pin disk drive connectors too.

It has more than enough capacity to power most circuit boards as a lab supply as it's intended - but if you want to power a lot of RGB or pixels, do pay attention to the power limits of the wires.