xmus-16 troubleshooting advice

[DavidHenry]

Got 1 xmus-16 assembled.
12V input from PC, verified 5V after regulator.
Power led good.
Deubg code worked fine.
AC jumper test ok.
Loaded 20070407c code into the pic.
have a a couple test sequences in Vixen.
I know there is some voltage coming off my rs323 to 485 adapter, but I don't have a scope to verify signals.

Thinking of building a voltage divider circuit and going into the sound card with the pc scope software. Don't expect to see more than 5v. advice on a breadboard divider circuit values to use so I don't fry my "sound card"? built in to the motherboard, so I really don't want to toast it.

David

[xmus]

Hi David,


How can I be of assistance? I don't really see a question, I assume the board isn't working, and it is time to determine if ZC and OSC are working. What do CH2 and CH5 do with the DIAG code loaded? (Make sure you use the DIAG code that uses the external OSC)

Looks like you are using the incorrect Renard code for the XMUS 16.
http://www.ritzfam.com/ChristmasMadness/Renardx16SSR/Release/

Specifically, you want (From the link above):

* Diagnostic FW using external oscillator (recommended)
* Ren-diag-20070815a_extosc18432.asm
* Ren-diag-20070815a_extosc18432.HEX

* Production code (This is the recommended FW that you use when not debugging)
* Renard-20070812_57600_EXTOSC_NoPWM.asm
* Renard-20070812_57600_EXTOSC_NoPWM.HEX

[DavidHenry]

Ok. Got the correct version of the code. didn't seem to change anything though. I only tested the external oscilator version. Worked fine. Was dissapointed that the correct "prod" firmware didn't help. I used the non pwm version as I don't have LEDs.

Still think I need a way to verify the input from the pc and the zero cross signals.

I've been lurking in the chat room, but I'm not sure how much longer that will last tonight...

David

[DavidHenry]

What do CH2 and CH5 do with the DIAG code loaded?

I have no idea, but I would assume, nothing. I think my rather terse description might not have correctly conveied what I indented.

What I meant was that I was using a 12 Volt supply from the PC. I could see that on the board, and that I knew the on board voltage regulator was putting out 5 volts.

Or, to sum it up, I think I've tested everything I can with my basic multimeter, and everything indicates that it should be working.

David

[xmus]

Well Ch2 and Ch5 flashing, with DIAG code loaded, are important, they indicate that ZC and OSC are working. If you are having any trouble getting the board to work, that would be the place to start.

Also, make sure you are using the PIC code from the link I provided above, the date on the PIC code you are using is not correct for the REN16 XMUS design.

Thanks!
Dave

[DavidHenry]

Well Ch2 and Ch5 flashing, with DIAG code loaded, are important, they indicate that ZC and OSC are working. If you are having any trouble getting the board to work, that would be the place to start.

Also, make sure you are using the PIC code from the link I provided above, the date on the PIC code you are using is not correct for the REN16 XMUS design.

Thanks!
Dave

Ahh. Got it. I put the jumpers across and looked at the LED with the diag code. I'll re flash with the diag, and leave the jumpers off, and the ac power on. I was just looking for the heartbeat and thought all was well.

Code is now from the links you provided.


David

[xmus]

you will need the ch2 jumper on to see the LED flash with CH2, and you'll need to hook some other 120VAC light to CH5 to monitor it.
You can leave the jumper off ch1 (assuming you already put it on, and saw a 120VAC light go on ch1).

[DavidHenry]

Ok. Background. I only have 8 C7 lights connected (to pic 1) by the input.

Ch 1 on
Ch 2 blink.
Ch 3 on
Ch 4 off
Ch 5 on
Ch 6 on
Ch 7 off
Ch 8 off

Interesting. If I unplug the board from pc / dc power, chanel 5 stays on.

[xmus]

http://christmasinshirley.com/wiki/index.php?title=Renard_Firmware

Channel 2 - blinks on and off as a heartbeat (if you see blinking, the PIC has power, clock, and is basically working ok).
Channel 5 - blinks on and off if the PIC is seeing a more or less proper Zero-crossing signal

Your zero cross isn't working

1) make sure you have the white wire (neutral 120VAC wire) to "n" on the right of the board
2) make sure you have a black wire (hot 120VAC) to the RIGHT fuse (ZC wont work if you only have black to the left fuse).

[DavidHenry]

Your zero cross isn't working
1) make sure you have the white wire (neutral 120VAC wire) to "n" on the right of the board
Oh crap. I guess that would explain why I had seemed to have an extra 2 pin terminal.


2) make sure you have a black wire (hot 120VAC) to the RIGHT fuse (ZC wont work if you only have black to the left fuse).

Power comes in only on the left (pic 1). I did at least notice where the zc opto was, and that if there was only one, and it had two separate power feeds, so I put a jumper between the two power feeds on the board when I first tested.

After installing the terminal, and connecting the neutral, everything (pic 1) is working. I'm think pic 2 should work, but I need to move my test bulbs over there to confirm.

I'm still trying to figure out how I missed the fact that it would take 2 wires to [duh] to pick up the zc signal. Oh well at least it's working.

Thanks for the assistance.

David

[xmus]

Glad you got it working! You are about the 4th person to report this kind of power on issue, so at least we know what to tell folks now, we previously took the approach of a full deep debug....