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fj
06-27-2010, 03:04 AM
Hi everyone,

I am in the middle of assembling 32 DC SSR's. I've come to a road block and just wanted to clarify a couple of things as the instructions in the wiki are not real clear. I have the v1.1 boards but the picture in the wiki is the v1.0 board so I'm a bit confused about what to do.

1. The 50volts 0.1uF capacitors on the picture in the wiki go into C1 but on my boards I have two places where it looks like they could go, either C1 or C2. Which one is it, or is it both?

2. With the capacitors from question 1, they have two legs but there are three holes at C1 and C2 so which two holes do I put them in to?

3. Do the 5V 100mA linear regulators go into U1 or U2? I'm guessing that it's U2 because the shape in the board matches the shape of the part itself, but when i tried to put it into U2, the holes were too close together for the actual part and so the legs were getting bent in towards each other quite a lot so I wasn't sure if it was right or not.

thanks, fj

budude
06-27-2010, 03:25 AM
This has come up before - see if this helps: http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showpost.php?p=76801

I guess the Wiki never got updated...

polar bear
06-27-2010, 06:28 AM
i havent started to build mine yet but if you go to the forum
scroll down to SSR go to page six and find 'DCSSR Question' you might find the answer to you question. good luck

smartalec
06-27-2010, 06:55 AM
Hi everyone,

I am in the middle of assembling 32 DC SSR's. I've come to a road block and just wanted to clarify a couple of things as the instructions in the wiki are not real clear. I have the v1.1 boards but the picture in the wiki is the v1.0 board so I'm a bit confused about what to do.

1. The 50volts 0.1uF capacitors on the picture in the wiki go into C1 but on my boards I have two places where it looks like they could go, either C1 or C2. Which one is it, or is it both?

I ended up putting one in c1 an c2


2. With the capacitors from question 1, they have two legs but there are three holes at C1 and C2 so which two holes do I put them in to?

the outer holes was easer


3. Do the 5V 100mA linear regulators go into U1 or U2? I'm guessing that it's U2 because the shape in the board matches the shape of the part itself, but when i tried to put it into U2, the holes were too close together for the actual part and so the legs were getting bent in towards each other quite a lot so I wasn't sure if it was right or not.

thanks, fj
i put it in U1 just cause it went in easer, same direction as U2

There's also a big difference if you got for a ver 1.5 board
but i have the same ver 1.1 boards as you.

the problem i see with ver 1.1 boards is that it gets supplyed 5v from the ren board then that 5v then goes into the regulators on the DCSSR boards
i saw that ver 1.5 boards they have fixed this an they get the supply for the regulators from the main power feed into the dcssr.

hope this helps.
alec

fj
06-27-2010, 09:45 AM
thanks for the help, that should sort things out.

i found another thread after a bit of digging around that shows a good picture of the DC SSR constructed, hope it helps someone else out.

http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6718

wjohn
06-27-2010, 06:10 PM
The current version of the board is 1.1, not 1.5.

The board was designed to take either a TO92 cased 78L05 or TO220 cased 7805. This was to give people choices.

Same with C1 and C2. The three holes allow for a variety of cap lead spacings. Mono 0.1 uF caps I have come with lead spacing of .1, .2, .3 Adding the extra hole gives you the option to use what you have.

The power feed for the regulator has always come from the DC load side. This is for galvanic isolation

plasmata
06-28-2010, 12:11 AM
Still wondering if you have to put caps in both C1 and C2.

wjohn
06-28-2010, 12:19 AM
Still wondering if you have to put caps in both C1 and C2.

Hi,

by the datasheet for the regulator, there should be a 0.33uF cap on the input to the 78L05. (thats C2 on the overlay). The function of C2 is to stop the Reg from oscillating. Depending on the manufacturer, the value can be in the range of .1 uF upwards. Again, depending on the manufacturer's datasheet, C1 may be included as well.

In summary, C2 'should' be included, C1 'may' be included on the board.

I am just updating my web pages at the moment,

http://www.xmasinmelb.com/dcssr/

and have the link to the Mouser BOM, and the details of C1 and C2 listed. Then I'll go back and redo the WIKI

smartalec
06-28-2010, 12:42 AM
would it make too much of a differance if i used the .1uf for both c1 an c2?
or would it be best to replace c2 with a .33uf ?
thanks alec


Hi,

by the datasheet for the regulator, there should be a 0.33uF cap on the input to the 78L05. (thats C2 on the overlay). The function of C2 is to stop the Reg from oscillating. Depending on the manufacturer, the value can be in the range of .1 uF upwards. Again, depending on the manufacturer's datasheet, C1 may be included as well.

In summary, C2 'should' be included, C1 'may' be included on the board.

I am just updating my web pages at the moment,

http://www.xmasinmelb.com/dcssr/

and have the link to the Mouser BOM, and the details of C1 and C2 listed. Then I'll go back and redo the WIKI

wjohn
06-28-2010, 02:10 AM
you can use just a 0.1uF for C2, or 2 x 0.1 uF for C1/2 or most other options. The 78L05 is fairly stable, and the cap is there 'just to be sure'. If you dont have a 0.33uF, you can use a small electro as well, just make sure the operating voltage is OK for the DC supply (30 V for 24 VDC operating range).

plasmata
06-28-2010, 10:44 AM
Thanks for the detailed response John and also for the wiki update.

wjohn
06-28-2010, 06:43 PM
you can use just a 0.1uF for C2, or 2 x 0.1 uF for C1/2 or most other options. The 78L05 is fairly stable, and the cap is there 'just to be sure'. If you dont have a 0.33uF, you can use a small electro as well, just make sure the operating voltage is OK for the DC supply (30 V for 24 VDC operating range).

bert-nc
08-03-2010, 08:24 PM
This may well seem like a no-brainer to many, but electronics are not my speciality. Can I use the dcssr discussed in this thread and have it controlled by a renard ss16. I know the controller is ac and the ssr is dc?
If so where can I get the boards for the dcssr. If not can you point me in the direction that I need to go.

thanks in advance

bert-nc

dirknerkle
08-03-2010, 08:38 PM
An SS16 has all the electronics/triacs for running lights directly and you can't really use an SSR from a properly completed SS16. You need either a Ren64, a RenLV, or budude's Ren48LSD to run it. You could also use LabRat's simple Renard16. But any controller that has triacs built right onto it is not going to be a good choice for controlling a DC SSR, or an AC SSR for that matter.

LabRat
08-03-2010, 08:44 PM
An SS16 has all the electronics/triacs for running lights directly and you can't really use an SSR from a properly completed SS16. You need either a Ren64, a RenLV, or budude's Ren48LSD to run it. You could also use LabRat's simple Renard16. But any controller that has triacs built right onto it is not going to be a good choice for controlling a DC SSR, or an AC SSR for that matter.

Just a disclaimer, that it isn't "my" simpleRen16... I just tweaked the layout to make it a bit more "home etch" friendly. The original files are in the "File Library" under Scorpia's Simple REN16 (http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=22&catid=9)

budude
08-03-2010, 08:55 PM
Just a disclaimer, that it isn't "my" simpleRen16... I just tweaked the layout to make it a bit more "home etch" friendly. The original files are in the "File Library" under Scorpia's Simple REN16 (http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/dynamics/showentry.php?e=22&catid=9)

Also - there is a "New and Improved" version they are working on which may do what you want as well - http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7193

Go near the end of the thread for a description of the new version of the "Simple"...

bert-nc
08-03-2010, 09:01 PM
I understand what you are saying. After reading your reply and I realize that will not work. However, what I think I need to know is if I can run my cable from computer to renard ss16, and then out from the ss16 to the dc ssr. so I would not be running the ssr from the renard ss 16, just allowing commands from the computer running vixen to pass thru the renard sss16 to the dcssr. Does that make sense:?: I am trying to run leds, and program them with the rest of the display, and renard ss16's is what I have.

bert-nc

LabRat
08-03-2010, 09:07 PM
No you can't.

Consider things this way. There are two major components to make the blinky work. The Controller.. and the SSR. The board you have now has both of them integrated into ONE BOARD. In order to make a DCSSR (or an ACSSR) work, you must have a controller that will turn it on/off.

So.. from your EXISTING REN16 you would run a cable (serial) to another controller (eg. The "SIMPLEREN16"). *THAT* controller would then have a cable that runs off to the individual SSR board(s) (upto 16 of them).

Did that help? Or just muddy the waters?

bert-nc
08-03-2010, 10:02 PM
No you can't.

Consider things this way. There are two major components to make the blinky work. The Controller.. and the SSR. The board you have now has both of them integrated into ONE BOARD. In order to make a DCSSR (or an ACSSR) work, you must have a controller that will turn it on/off.

So.. from your EXISTING REN16 you would run a cable (serial) to another controller (eg. The "SIMPLEREN16"). *THAT* controller would then have a cable that runs off to the individual SSR board(s) (upto 16 of them).

Did that help? Or just muddy the waters?

not the answer I was hoping for, but I do understand what you are saying.

thanks for the help

bert-nc

wjohn
08-03-2010, 10:25 PM
Bert,

the DCSSR does need a controller to tell it what to do.

The REN16SS or the REN16 are integrated controllers (aka they have a controller and SSR all on one board). While this makes it a simple board to deploy, it lock you into AC 110 V or something like that.

The DCSSR and SSRez were designed to work with any controller that did not have integrated SSRs. Examples of this are the GRINCH, REN64 and many others.

It was all about choice. individual SSRs (such as the DCSSR and the AC SSRez) let you mix and match on the same controller.

Hope that helps

Skunberg
08-03-2010, 10:29 PM
The DCssr would require a controller (Ren64, Ren24LV, ect.) and that controller can be in line with the ss16 (before or after).

bert-nc
08-04-2010, 07:06 PM
Bert,

the DCSSR does need a controller to tell it what to do.

The REN16SS or the REN16 are integrated controllers (aka they have a controller and SSR all on one board). While this makes it a simple board to deploy, it lock you into AC 110 V or something like that.

The DCSSR and SSRez were designed to work with any controller that did not have integrated SSRs. Examples of this are the GRINCH, REN64 and many others.

It was all about choice. individual SSRs (such as the DCSSR and the AC SSRez) let you mix and match on the same controller.

Hope that helps

I understand what you are saying. for some reason I did not even think about the dcssr needing a controller to tell it what to do. I do appreciate the advice! Now I can get on the right track and make some progress with my project.

thanks
bert-nc