Frank's LED Super Strip 5mm Super Flux RGB Coop

[tjetzer]

This group buy is now closed!!! Thank you to everyone for quick payment. Look for more information on page 6


Group Buy Rules: read before posting in this thread (http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2919)

By participating in this Group Buy all participants agree to release www.doityourselfchristmas.com (http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com), it’s Owners, Administrators, Moderators or any other staff of any and all liability and waive all rights I may have under all laws and governing bodies. By posting in this thread you agree you are entering a binding contract between the Organizer and the Participant.

As per coop rules, this coop is limited to 50 participants or 150 sets of LEDs. If either of those limits are reached to coop will be closed.

Details as are follows:

The Co-Op set of 60 5mm Super Flux LEDs cost will be $19.00 per set with a flat rate of $6.00 for shipping. This Co-Op is for your choice common anode and/or common cathode LEDs. This pricing is based on 1500 total LEDs. Should the co-op go over 1500 LEDs, and the overall price is reduced, everyone will receive a partial refund.

Please note, this Co-Op is for the RGB LEDs ONLY!
Please post your orders in this thread. I will be sending PMs with my PayPal address once I receive your order. Please include your preferred LED type (common anode or common cathode) and your DIYC user name with your payment.

This Co-Op will End MOnday, March 1st at 10:00PM CST. The order will be placed on Tuesday March 2nd at Noon CST. Your LEDs will not be included in the order if payment has not been received!!

I will ship the LEDs within 3 days after I have received them.

Board Info and BOM
http://www.kostyun.com/led-displays/rgbw-flood-strip/

LED Info
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110483571089

Board Info/Discussion Threads
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7288&highlight=strip+flood

http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6272&highlight=strip+flood

Participants
username - type of led - quantity
(red = paid)


tjetzer - anode - 4
budude - anode - 2
skunberg - anode - 3
rokkett - anode - 5
kychristmas - anode - 2
JEEPGUY -anode - 3
RichF- anode - 4
chicken - anode - 3
dlovely - anode - 4
akonkman - anode - 2
Dragon88 - anode - 5
mheuer - anode - 2
brandoon - anode - 4
Elmo2resc - anode - 3
jderba - anode - 2
pmcpa - anode - 2
DIY Guy - anode - 2
LabRat - anode - 4
dreday98 - Anode - 5
deplanche - anode - 2
fathead45 - anode - 1
boarder3 - Anode - 4
Sly - Anode - 3
pete - Anode - 2
DavidHenry - Anode - 2




Thanks
Todd

[kychristmas]

I'm confused? Is this for just the the LEDs? If so, what about Boards and other components such as Resistors and RJ-45 Connectors?

[tjetzer]

I'm confused? Is this for just the the LEDs? If so, what about Boards and other components such as Resistors and RJ-45 Connectors?

My apologies. The coop is for the RGB LEDs only. The original post has been updated to clarify this.

[budude]

Please put me down for 2 sets of Common Anode LEDs.

Thanks!
Brian

[Skunberg]

Put me down for three sets. Thank you!

[boarder3]

Im interested but are there any videos of finished product?

[tjetzer]

Im interested but are there any videos of finished product?

There is video on Frank's website (http://store.kostyun.com/product.php?id_product=34)

[rokkett]

Ok, I am just going to out my electrical ignorance out on the table and ask. Any advantage to either common anode or cathode? Can either be used with the 24LV controller?

[LabRat]

Estimated shipping costs to the "Great White North" (aka Canada)?

I may be better off ordering direct from the Ebay dealers :(

[budude]

There is video on Frank's website (http://store.kostyun.com/product.php?id_product=34)

Frank's video is with half-populated strips btw.

I have a demo of them also - I was playing with the WinAMP plug-in for Halloween so the colors changes are a bit odd... forgive the camera work - it's a still-camera in video mode and it doesn't do the brightness justice:

http://www.vimeo.com/7323209

and from my 2009 show - this shows them off fairly well - a better camera was used this time but again - they are brighter in person:

http://www.vimeo.com/8415431

You will want Common Anode if using a DCSSR (and I believe for Frank's LV as well).

[tjetzer]

Estimated shipping costs to the "Great White North" (aka Canada)?

I may be better off ordering direct from the Ebay dealers :(

If the LEDs will fit in a box 8-5/8" x 5-3/8" x 1-5/8" I can ship using USPS Priority International for $13.00.

[DIY Guy]

Does anybody know for sure if the 24LV needs common anode or common cathode? Looks like common anode to me (setting ssr mode off sends (+) to pins 1,3,5,7, which would mean common anode, if I'm not mistaken?)

[chicken]

From my understanding you need a DC SSR to use the Super Strips fully populated on the 24LV correct. Can you get away half populated on the 24LV? thanks

[boarder3]

So this co-op is for rgb only what would total be for everything i need to complete project want to make sure its worth it. Like the effect it makes just trying to determine if price per unit is not to much.

[budude]

First - regarding questions about the LV - - I suggest one of you PM Frank directly, get the answers and post back here. I do not believe the LV will drive a fully populated strip especially if you have Red + Blue on to make purple at full power and on multiple strips from the same ULN2803 - it just can't drive that much (it would >1A per chip easily...). In that case you should use a DCSSR (from the LV for example) which can easily drive a full strip no problem. Yes - it costs more but then so will the constant pile of ULN2803 chips you keep pulling out of the LV after smoking them...

wrt to the Strips - to FULLY populate them you need (I will talk in multiples of 3):
3 Strips - $12 (from Frank's store) + SH - let's call it $18
54 RGB LEDs - the group buy is for 60 so you get extras - $19+$6 or $25
54 White LEDs - guessing about half the cost of RGB - let's say $12
216 resistors of different values - I can get 100 at JameCo for $2 - let's say $10 w/SH
3 RJ45s - it's really 6 but if you aren't going to daisy-chain - which you can't with fully populated then you only need 3 - let's say $2

We can argue over actual pricing - but I think it's close enough - you're looking at about $67 or ~$22 per strip - let's call it $20 if you save on S&H here and there and you still need something to drive them (LV+DCSSR for example) and a power supply.

[tjetzer]

I have seen Frank post he is driving 2 off each cat5 from a Ren24lv, however he did not state whether the boards were fully populated.

Unfortunately there hasn't been a lot of documentation or questions on the forum about these. I will PM frank and get some more information.

I will also be looking at a white & warm white LED coop to start later tonight or tomorrow morning.

Unfortunately because of the different configurations possible and the different needs of the members of the board the coops are difficult to run. I be running the coops for the different LEDs. Once I have LEDs and boards I will looking at running a coop for the rest of the BOM after I have determined a good BOM using these LEDs running off a Ren24lv w/o SSRs which is how I am going to run mine. I will post back once I hear from Frank about the LEDs and the controllers.

[budude]

I find that ... interesting ...

So - two half-pop strips is really one fully populated. That is 360mA (if using 20mA forward current on the LEDs to get full brightness...) - and that might be OK for a single ULN2803 for a single channel -- but the chip has 8 drivers so it's probably going to be driving two strips (RGB+W x 2) or 720mA and that's assuming you don't mix colors at all - which - if you did at full power would be 1440mA - I'd have to see it to believe it... I suppose if you were careful with your sequencing/mixing you might get it to work but...

I think it would be very important for someone to get his blessing one way or the other before anyone goes down a particular path... In either case, there is no loss going with the Ren24LV as the controller since it can drive DCSSRs as well...

[boarder3]

can these strips be made to work like leaping arches? if you put five in a row in an arch and will they be able to change colors

[budude]

can these strips be made to work like leaping arches? if you put five in a row in an arch and will they be able to change colors

Yep - I hadn't thought of that but that should not be a problem... They'd make neat Bellagio Fountain poles too but would be pretty pricey - but wicked cool...

[LabRat]

If the LEDs will fit in a box 8-5/8" x 5-3/8" x 1-5/8" I can ship using USPS Priority International for $13.00.

Adding it all up ...

$19.00 (x 4 sets) + $13.00 is quite a bit more than the original guesstimate values of $15.75

It's only slightly cheaper than ordering direct from the Wholesaler. Given I want to order some additional WARM WHITE, and flat top LEDs, I think I'm going to be better off buying direct. Sorry to everyone else who may have been depending on me to help keep the numbers in check.

[tjetzer]

I find that ... interesting ...

So - two half-pop strips is really one fully populated. That is 360mA (if using 20mA forward current on the LEDs to get full brightness...) - and that might be OK for a single ULN2803 for a single channel -- but the chip has 8 drivers so it's probably going to be driving two strips (RGB+W x 2) or 720mA and that's assuming you don't mix colors at all - which - if you did at full power would be 1440mA - I'd have to see it to believe it... I suppose if you were careful with your sequencing/mixing you might get it to work but...

I think it would be very important for someone to get his blessing one way or the other before anyone goes down a particular path... In either case, there is no loss going with the Ren24LV as the controller since it can drive DCSSRs as well...

Look at post #5 - 15. (http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showpost.php?p=67803&postcount=5) unfortunately Frank doesn't say whether his are half or fully populated. I have asked him and will let everyone know his reply.

[tjetzer]

Adding it all up ...

$19.00 (x 4 sets) + $13.00 is quite a bit more than the original guesstimate values of $15.75

It's only slightly cheaper than ordering direct from the Wholesaler. Given I want to order some additional WARM WHITE, and flat top LEDs, I think I'm going to be better off buying direct. Sorry to everyone else who may have been depending on me to help keep the numbers in check.

The price in the other thread was based on the sellers new manufacturer. This price is based on the old proven manufacturer. This price is also based on an order of 1500. If we reach 2000 LEDs the price will come down.

Also, keep an eye out tomorrow for the white/warm white LED coop. I will be ordering all the LEDs at the same time and will combine RGB and White LEDs together which will (in most cases) eliminate additional shipping costs.

[DIY Guy]

Look at post #5 - 15. (http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showpost.php?p=67803&postcount=5) unfortunately Frank doesn't say whether his are half or fully populated. I have asked him and will let everyone know his reply.

As budude pointed out, with each uln actually controlling (2) of the rj45's, I think it's reasonable that you could have 4 outputs conducting at the same time (ie r+b on rj45 #1 and r+b on rj45 #2). With 4 outputs on at the same time you have a max of about 260ma per output.

That would be 13 leds if you were driving each at 20ma.

If you half-populate each strip and have it on it's own rj45 I think you would be ok for any scenario.

If you fully populate or chain two half-populated I think you would have a problem if you weren't careful not to have 2 or more channels on 100% at the same time. Which I suppose is not a common occurance. Normally you would be fading one down while you fade another up, or mixing two colors at less than 100% to make some other color. If you were planning on making white by turning rgb on at the same time rather than putting the white leds in, I think you would have trouble.

[Skunberg]

Frank's are half populated w/ two tied together. He also has only the RGB (no white) and mentioned not exceeding full power of one color, so if two color are running they need to be half power each. This information is from a mix of his website, test video, more than one thread and a couple PM's last year.
I'm planning to half populate and one strip per rj45 off the Ren24LV so I can add some white and not be as close to the edge as Frank. Not to mention being able to chase like budude. Subject to change from this years discussion. Is that clear as mud?

Brian

[rokkett]

Ok - I am in (over my head... :)) - 5 sets - common anode

[kychristmas]

I am in for 2 sets of common Anode

[JEEPGUY]

I'm in for 3 sets of common Anode.

[DIY Guy]

This Co-Op will End MOnday, March 1st at 10:00PM CST. The order will be placed on Monday March 1st at Noon CST.

I was just looking to see when this ends and noticed the above. I assume you aren't placing the order before the coop ends?

[tjetzer]

I was just looking to see when this ends and noticed the above. I assume you aren't placing the order before the coop ends?

Whoops. No, I will be ordering on the 2nd. I have fixed this. Thank you for bringing it to me attention.

[Skunberg]

Unless you get to the 50 people or 150 sets cut off, which would allow you to order early.


Whoops. No, I will be ordering on the 2nd. I have fixed this. Thank you for bringing it to me attention.

[RichF]

I am in for 4 sets common anode for use with the ren24lvs

[chicken]

I am in for 3 sets of common anodes. Thanks

[dlovely]

I am in for 4 sets common anode.

[akonkman]

I am in for 2 sets common anode for use with RenLV24.

[Dragon88]

5 anode for me please.

[mheuer]

2 sets of RGB common anode for me.
Thanks!

[brandoon]

I'm in for 4 sets of the common anode, Thanks.

[tjetzer]

Wow, these coop sure took off last night!

Keep the orders coming! The more orders we get the better price (bigger refund) everyone will get!

Thanks
Todd

[Elmo2resc]

put me in for three sets of common anode

Thanks, Jerome

[jderba]

please put me in for 2 sets of common anode

Thanks

Jack

[Elmo2resc]

Payment sent..
Thanks

[pmcpa]

please put me down for 2 sets of RGB led's!

PAYMENT SENT!

[jderba]

Payment sent...... Thanks for doing this

Jack

[tjetzer]

There is one week left for this coop. It looks like we will not hit the 150 kit limit so this coop will close at 10:00PM CST on Monday March 1st.

Get your orders in this week!

[DIY Guy]

Please count me in for (2) sets of RGB, common anode.

Thanks,
Tim

[boarder3]

I need info on coop for RGB+W LED Super Strip Flood i love that effect and want to make leaping arches out of them. Please let me know what i need to order from coop and what i need to drive them? time is running out. I have a renardss and olsen 64 if that helps.

[LabRat]

4 sets common Anode please.

[boarder3]

4 sets of common anode

[budude]

put me down for 4 sets i am gonna use this for leaping arches with franks strips so not sure if i need common anode please let me know which is better for that

The strips don't care - they can use use common anode or common cathode but if you are using the "normal" DC control stuff here - like DCSSRs or Ren24LV then you want Common Anode. This is because the -DC(GND) is switched on the SSRs and the +DC is common to all the LEDs.

[dreday98]

5 sets of common anode.

Thanks

[deplanche]

2 sets please - anode

[fathead45]

Put me down for 1 set. i will need a set that will work with franks board or a dcssr.

[boarder3]

I need 4 sets of common but i dont see it on main page?

[tjetzer]

Alright, we've got one day until the coop closes. All orders must be placed by 10:00 PM Central time tomorrow. All payments are due by noon on Tuesday March 2nd. I will then be contacting the seller and placing the order. If your payment is not in your LEDs will NOT BE ORDERED

[Sly]

Please put me down for 3 sets common anode. Thanks.

Sly

[fathead45]

money sent. thanks alot

[pete]

You can put me down for 2 sets please.

Thanks in advance,
pete

[DavidHenry]

In for 2 sets Common Anode. (also posting in the other thread)

[tjetzer]

This group buy is now CLOSED! Thank you to everyone for paying rapidly. Everyone got their payment in before the deadline, so all LEDs will be ordered!

I will be placing an order for over 10,000 LEDs! Because of the size of the order it will take a little longer to arrive at everyone's door step. The seller has agreed to prepackage all LEDs in groups of 60 so my turnaround time will be very fast. The seller states it will take 11-12 days for me to receive them. I will have all orders shipped within 36 hour of receiving the LEDs. Most participants should have their LEDs delivered around March 20th.

[budude]

Awesome job there Todd - wow - 10,000 - we just made the place a lot brighter - and in full color too! :p

[tjetzer]

OK, the LEDs have been ordered (For a few days already) and should be shipping to me within 3 days. I'm going to start getting labels and boxes ready so they're good to go when the LEDs get here.

I will also be working on getting the refunds out to everyone this weekend. The refund will be $1.20 for each set of RGB LEDs.

[DavidHenry]

Please cross reference comments on refunds in the non-color LED coop.

[tjetzer]

I received an email from the supplier. He has not received the LEDs from the manufacturer. He says he expects them in 2 days. I will keep everyone updated.

Thanks
Todd

[tjetzer]

I have been notified the LEDs are on their way to me now. The supplier is claiming I should see them within 3 days. If that is the case expect yours to be mailed to you the beginning of next week!

[tjetzer]

They're here!

Click Me! (http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showpost.php?p=110414&postcount=51)

[tjetzer]

Alright, a good portion of the LEDs have been packaged for shipping. There are a few smaller orders that I will stick in envelopes and get ready for shipping. All LEDs will be in the mail tomorrow.

[tjetzer]

All LEDs have been shipped! You should receive them in a few days!


Thanks
Todd

[budude]

U da man!

[akonkman]

Got mine today!

[Dragon88]

Got mine also

Thanks

[mschell]

No fair, you guys live too close to Todd! :)

No big hurry for mine - got to wait till Frank ships the boards next week....

[dlovely]

Got mine yesterday, Thanks for all your hard work Todd!! Sure lucky you didn't have to count 10,000 of them. They must have done them by weight, as some bags were low and some where high on count. With the 6 extra you accounted for in each set still have plenty to fill the boards. Need to test out some resistor values @ 5V and see what I want to use. Anyone use 5V and have some good starting values?

Dave

[budude]

Got mine yesterday, Thanks for all your hard work Todd!! Sure lucky you didn't have to count 10,000 of them. They must have done them by weight, as some bags were low and some where high on count. With the 6 extra you accounted for in each set still have plenty to fill the boards. Need to test out some resistor values @ 5V and see what I want to use. Anyone use 5V and have some good starting values?

Dave

Got mine yesterday as well - Thanks Todd!

I use 5v for mine and I'm using 100ohm for Green and Blue and 150ohm for Red. I don't have White on mine but I think they have the same Vf as the Green and Blue so they might be 100ohm as well. This gave me 18/19mA current. Be sure to allow for voltage drop from your cabling.

[akonkman]

I think I'm going with 100 ohm for Green/Blue and 150 for Red also, using a 5V supply. Don't make the mistake I did: I breadboarded one RGB LED to test out what resistor values I am going to use, and I used the pinout that is shown on the ebay listing (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110483571089), but apparently that pinout is wrong, as I had a 100 ohm resistor connected to Red and ended up ruining 2 LEDS in the process. So you might want to start with a higher resistor value for all pins at first to ensure you know which pins are Red, Green, and Blue! (The common anode pin is correct)

[tjetzer]

Got mine yesterday, Thanks for all your hard work Todd!! Sure lucky you didn't have to count 10,000 of them. They must have done them by weight, as some bags were low and some where high on count. With the 6 extra you accounted for in each set still have plenty to fill the boards. Need to test out some resistor values @ 5V and see what I want to use. Anyone use 5V and have some good starting values?

Dave

I hope this doesn't cause a problem with anyone. If anyone is short and needs a few more let me know. I'm not sure how many spares I'll have left but will do my best to make sure everyone has what they need.

[RichF]

Got a package today Thank TJ

[mschell]

Thot it didn't come today, but the box just fit in the mailbox. Just went out and found the box!

Looks great!

Thanks for your hard work!

[tjetzer]

Glad to hear they are starting to show up in everyone's mail boxes.


If someone wants to work up a working BOM for the strips I would be willing to run a coop to pupoluate them. I won't be able to test any strips until I am able to get my grubby hands on one of budude's strip controllers.

[Elmo2resc]

Got mine today, thanks..
Jerome

[pmcpa]

got mine today, thanks!

[Skunberg]

Glad to hear they are starting to show up in everyone's mail boxes.


If someone wants to work up a working BOM for the strips I would be willing to run a coop to pupoluate them. I won't be able to test any strips until I am able to get my grubby hands on one of budude's strip controllers.

18 150 ohm 1/4 watt
36 100 ohm 1/4 watt
2 side entry cat 5 connector

Missing 18 1/4 watt for warm white/cool white
I bet budude can fill this blank ;-)

[budude]

18 150 ohm 1/4 watt
36 100 ohm 1/4 watt
2 side entry cat 5 connector

Missing 18 1/4 watt for warm white/cool white
I bet budude can fill this blank ;-)

Actually... I can't yet as I don't have white on mine yet! However, I recall these are 3.0-3.2Vf so a 100ohm should work for these as well - do a quick bench test to be sure. Note - - a BOM like this will only work if everyone is using 5v - if you are using anything else (like 12v) they'll be different of course...

Also - I'd suggest 1/8W resistors if using 5v. Since maximum voltage drop is ~3v on the resistor (for Red) and at 20mA, this would be .06W - well under the .125W of the resistor rating. If you're using 12v, the maximum drop would be ~10v which would be .2W - way over .125W so you must use 1/4W for that. The resistor pads are on 3.5 centers (I think) so the 1/4W resistors are a very tight fit. That's what I used on mine but it was a real PITA... The 1/8W will fit nice and easy.

If you aren't going to daisy-chain the strips (you SHOULD NOT daisy-chain if fully populated!) you can get away with only one RJ45 per strip. You'll also need to house these in something - they can't be out in the weather.

You can test these w/o a controller btw - just use a REGULATED power source and run the "+" to pins 1,3,5 and 7 and then tie the "-" to pins 2,4,6 or 8. I used an old phone wall wort which used a switching regulator in it for mine - but you can use the supply you are planning to use as well as a test. Keep in mind that the colors go RBGW - not RGBW (unless the LEDs have changed since I got mine) you must account for this when wiring things up or sequencing.

[pmcpa]

If someone wants to work up a working BOM for the strips I would be willing to run a coop to pupoluate them. I won't be able to test any strips until I am able to get my grubby hands on one of budude's strip controllers.

This would be great, but might be hard because some people are doing strips different ways. But doesn't change that it would be great!

[jderba]

Just got back from traveling and had a nice surprise in the mailbox!!! Thanks for doing this, you did a great job

Jack

[LabRat]

18 150 ohm 1/4 watt
36 100 ohm 1/4 watt
2 side entry cat 5 connector

Missing 18 1/4 watt for warm white/cool white
I bet budude can fill this blank ;-)

Where did you get the values in order to calculate this? I followed the link to the EBAY site, and the forward voltage for all three colours was listed as the same, as was the current ratings (0.25ma). Now I know better, and realize that the RED is almost always different from the other two, and your values support this. So.. where did you get your starting numbers from? Is there a data sheet, or was this a case of trial experimentation, and recalculation?

The reason I ask? I'm considering running these off of a 12v supply. So was going to recalculate the resistor values required. (best guess at the moment = 460ohm, 360ohm)

[Skunberg]

Where did you get the values in order to calculate this? I followed the link to the EBAY site, and the forward voltage for all three colours was listed as the same, as was the current ratings (0.25ma). Now I know better, and realize that the RED is almost always different from the other two, and your values support this. So.. where did you get your starting numbers from? Is there a data sheet, or was this a case of trial experimentation, and recalculation?

The reason I ask? I'm considering running these off of a 12v supply. So was going to recalculate the resistor values required. (best guess at the moment = 460ohm, 360ohm)

This data is from budude last year in a thread. And his reply to me has a little more detail on this. I bought strips last year but didn't have the channels or tubes for them. But I kept on top of the threads and know a little bit from others. This year I bought Ren24LV for them, then changed my mind to add DC SSRs, and may change my mind again to budude's controller.
Anyway back to your questions, budude tested last year and came up with those figures.

[budude]

I got my values by experimenting on a breadboard first aiming for 20mA and ended up with 18/19mA. I think I recall the info you mentioned and sent an email to the vendor and he responded that the Red was not the same as Green/Blue - guess he never changed the datasheet...

[LabRat]

So can I assume your resistor values provided 18/19 ma on all three channels? Thus working backwards to figure out the Vf for each colour?

[budude]

So can I assume your resistor values provided 18/19 ma on all three channels? Thus working backwards to figure out the Vf for each colour?

Correct - I think it was 2v (Red) and 3.1v for (Green/Blue) and I allowed a bit for cabling voltage drop (~.25v or so) as well.

[pmcpa]

so anyone want to double check my work here.....

http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=25c79a1862



I think I have everything (Warm White Boards fully populated)

[RichF]

Looks ok. I used 120ohm and 180ohm resistors as I had them in stock. Also you only need the one jack unless you play to daisy chain the boards

[dlovely]

so anyone want to double check my work here.....

http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=25c79a1862



I think I have everything (Warm White Boards fully populated)

I have a draft order about ready, I was going to get 299-100-RC and 299-150-RC. I heard 1/8W will fit better on the board, but this is only recommended for 5V.

[pmcpa]

ok... makes sense, updated... same cost

[budude]

I have a draft order about ready, I was going to get 299-100-RC and 299-150-RC. I heard 1/8W will fit better on the board, but this is only recommended for 5V.

It seems to depend on the actual resistor. I got NTE brand metal-film 1/4W resistors last year and had to bend them as sharp as possible to barely fit so I got 1/8W resistors this time. However - I had already purchased some other 1/4W resistors (150 ohm) when I bought LEDs for my LEDTriks and those fit perfectly fine - - so I guess the answer is - it depends. However, there's nothing wrong with 1/8W when using 5v since it's only 20mA across the resistor and even if the full 5v were across it it would only be 1/10W (.020 x 5 = .100) but of course the LED drops 2-3V so it doesn't even come close to that... If you're using 12v you'll probably need 1/4W for sure...

[tjetzer]

so anyone want to double check my work here.....

http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=25c79a1862



I think I have everything (Warm White Boards fully populated)

- If need to populate 12 boards like I do you can add 1 of the Side Entry Cat connectors and save a little over a buck. Not a big deal but it'll save you a bit and you get a spare!

[pmcpa]

ok.... just put the first RGB led in.... is it just me or things a bit wonkey with these LED's? Tested using my meater.... R1 is labeled R (Red) R2 G, R3 B, R4 W.....


When testing I get R1 R, R2 B, R3 G, R4 W (inserted 180deg off mark, I know about that)


am I missing something?

[budude]

ok.... just put the first RGB led in.... is it just me or things a bit wonkey with these LED's? Tested using my meater.... R1 is labeled R (Red) R2 G, R3 B, R4 W.....


When testing I get R1 R, R2 B, R3 G, R4 W (inserted 180deg off mark, I know about that)


am I missing something?

To clarify - the RGB LEDs go in as per the silk - it's the WHITE LEDs that go in 180deg off... Also - Everything labled "G" is for Blue - everything labled "B" is for Green. At the RJ45 it goes:

Pin
2 - Red
4 - Blue
6 - Green
8 - White
1,3,5,7 - common+

[pmcpa]

ok, good to know, B=g and g=b!

[budude]

ok, good to know, B=g and g=b!

Note - since you are one of those getting the Ren48LSD - I did NOT re-order the colors on the board which means you will either have to swap pins 4 & 6 on your Cat5s to the SuperStrips OR you just reorder them in Vixen if you want them in RGBW order versus RBGW order...

I did not change the order as I already have my existing strips cabled that way :roll: - plus - in case someone wants to use these for other purposes, the channel order goes in the same order as the cable pins (2,4,6,8).

[pmcpa]

I can cross cables... no worries

[dreday98]

Anyone find the value of resistors for 12v ????

[budude]

Anyone find the value of resistors for 12v ????

You will need to calculate for them - but it's not too hard. To get in the ball park use 2v as Vf for Red and 3v as Vf for Blue/Green/White. So:

RED: 12v - 2v = 10v across the resistor - if you're shooting for 20mA (normal) through the LED, it would be 10v / .02A = 500 ohm. I think the next common size would be 510 ohm which would give you 19.6 mA.

BLUE/GREEN/WHITE = 12v - 3v - 9v across the resistor - if you're shooting for 20mA (normal) through the LED, it would be 9v / .02A = 450 ohm. The next common size up would be 470 ohm which would give you 19.1 mA.

You do not want to down in value as that may raise the current too high.

If you have a breadboard, you may want to try these values out first. If you do go straight to the strip, mount only one set of resistors and one LED and see how it looks and do some measurements there. If all good, then go at it!

[mschell]

And remember that you'll need a larger size resistor for 12V. Since the voltage drop is 9V and 10V, times 20mA, you'll need at least a 1/4 watt resistor. (9*.020 = .180 Watts, 10*.020=.200 W) 1/4 watt is .250W, so you should be OK.

Check the size of the resistor you choose, because those positions on the strips are fairly small...

[dreday98]

Thanks to bad Rat shack only has the 470 ohm. I guess i can use a 330 and a 240 and try that.

[budude]

And remember that you'll need a larger size resistor for 12V. Since the voltage drop is 9V and 10V, times 20mA, you'll need at least a 1/4 watt resistor. (9*.020 = .180 Watts, 10*.020=.200 W) 1/4 watt is .250W, so you should be OK.

Check the size of the resistor you choose, because those positions on the strips are fairly small...

Yep - forgot that - nice catch Mark! (That's why I used 5v...)

[budude]

Thanks to bad Rat shack only has the 470 ohm. I guess i can use a 330 and a 240 and try that.

570 ohm? Where do you live? Some places might be nearby and you get stuff fairly quick. I have Jameco right up the peninsula from me - typically not the cheapest but if I order in the morning, the stuff will be at my door by the afternoon of the next day. Digi-Key is in MN, Mouser in TX and Newark is in Chicago (I think?) so the Midwest is covered pretty well!

If you're just experimenting then it doesn't matter but I wouldn't want to mess with 2 resistors together.

[dreday98]

570 ohm? Where do you live? Some places might be nearby and you get stuff fairly quick. I have Jameco right up the peninsula from me - typically not the cheapest but if I order in the morning, the stuff will be at my door by the afternoon of the next day. Digi-Key is in MN, Mouser in TX and Newark is in Chicago (I think?) so the Midwest is covered pretty well!

If you're just experimenting then it doesn't matter but I wouldn't want to mess with 2 resistors together.

This was for testing only, if it looks right then I'll place my order. I have 15 strips.

[DIY Guy]

I started soldering mine today. I'm using the 5V rail from an ATX power supply to power them.

The PS is putting out over 5.6V and I am getting 23mA of current with the suggested 100/150 ohm resistors. This is with the PS connected to the strip, so there's no voltage loss accounted for.

If you have a PS that is putting out 5.0V, I personally would reevaluate the resistor sizes.

These LEDs are rated for 25mA.

[budude]

I started soldering mine today. I'm using the 5V rail from an ATX power supply to power them.

The PS is putting out over 5.6V and I am getting 23mA of current with the suggested 100/150 ohm resistors. This is with the PS connected to the strip, so there's no voltage loss accounted for.

If you have a PS that is putting out 5.0V, I personally would reevaluate the resistor sizes.

These LEDs are rated for 25mA.

They are rated for 25mA MAX but have a suggested nominal current of 20mA. If you have a decent voltage drop in your cabling, then yes it's fine but if not, I would not run them above 20mA... I don't think you'll see any difference in brightness between the two.

[DIY Guy]

Ah thanks budude, you are the LEDstrip master.

The specs from the auction page simply say 25mA, not maximum (nor nominal). I searched around for other specs and you are right on with the 20mA.

[DIY Guy]

I measured the length of the vias for the resistors and they are ~9mm from outside of the hole to outside of the hole.

I also figured it takes about 3mm (1.5mm per side) of room to bend the leads of the resistor without a lot of hassle.

This leaves ~6mm for the actual body of the resistor.

Looking at Mouser, good choices would be 270-VALUE-RC, a 1/8W 1% metal film resistor with a 3.5mm body width or 299-VALUE-RC, a 1/8W 5% carbon film resistor with a 4.2mm body width.

1/4W are cheaper, but with a 6.8mm body width it's going to be a tight fit, although certainly manageable, the p/n would be 271-VALUE-RC and 291-VALUE-RC, respectively.

Anything bigger than 1/4W really will not fit; not that you need anything bigger than 1/8W, but if you have some laying around..

[pmcpa]

Here's what I used, and they fit great:
http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=25c79a1862

Setting boards up for Warm Whites running @ 5 volts

Just order about 5 extra resistors each.... mouser has issues counting if you order more then 10 (I think they count by weight... and they were under on both my resistors)

[DIY Guy]

Here's what I used, and they fit great:
http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=25c79a1862

Setting boards up for Warm Whites running @ 5 volts

Just order about 5 extra resistors each.... mouser has issues counting if you order more then 10 (I think they count by weight... and they were under on both my resistors)

Yep, those are the 299- ones.

[mschell]

Here's what I used, and they fit great:
http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=25c79a1862

Setting boards up for Warm Whites running @ 5 volts

Just order about 5 extra resistors each.... mouser has issues counting if you order more then 10 (I think they count by weight... and they were under on both my resistors)

If you order 600 of them, they just use the vendor's packaging of 200 per bag. I didn't actually count to see if there were 200, but it looked pretty close...of course, I'm only finished with about 10 of the strips so far.

[pmcpa]

hind-site is 20/20... I saw that they originally come in packs of 300

What else is everyone using to protect these strips from the elements? I know frank recommends T8 Florescent protection tubes, but those were a little too flimsy for my taste.

I tried to take 1" schedule 40 PVC, and cut a window in one side and slide in Clear PVC, but turned out to be way too tight.

Ended up ordering clear Schedule 40 PVC then using the standard white end caps, ran a bead of Silicone down the back of each board and placed it in. I like it, but the Clear PVC was +$4.50/foot shipped

http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss305/pmcpa/projects/th_IMG_3149.jpg (http://s586.photobucket.com/albums/ss305/pmcpa/projects/?action=view&current=IMG_3149.jpg)

I only made 6 this year, kinda as a test, might go full scale next year if I like the effect!

[budude]

Looks like a good solution to me! I used Tap Plastics acrylic tubes (1"OD) - http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=141&

I have multiple stores near me so I didn't have shipping. They sell red caps to seal the ends but I can't find them on their online store (there are some very similar but not the same).

[pmcpa]

that would work too... dam you west coasters! You have all the cool stores!

[budude]

that would work too... dam you west coasters! You have all the cool stores!

HEHE -- actually - for grins - I typed in your zip code and "bought" a couple 6' lengths (cut to 2x3') and it's $22.24 shipped (UPS Ground) or $1.85/ft - still way cheaper... Just have to find the darn caps that I have - really nice tight fit.
But then again - the regular PVC caps would work too I suppose as long as they are 1" ID.

[pmcpa]

much better price

If they are 1" then standard SCH 40 caps should also work.... I would think! I'm not gluing the caps on, they are just press fit. I have a restock of Cat5 coming in this week (Need it for IT work Anyway) so I can finish everything up!

[tjetzer]

Is anyone having any trouble with these? I am having a problem with the red portion of the LEDs. I have quite a few strips that have 1 or more reds that will not turn on. If, while turned on, I take the soldering iron to them and heat them up they'll turn on and stay running until I remove power. Once I remove power they don't turn on again until I apply heat and let the solder re-flow.

Also, has anybody noticed a difference in colors on some of the green?


Has anyone had trouble with these, or am I the only one?

[budude]

Is anyone having any trouble with these? I am having a problem with the red portion of the LEDs. I have quite a few strips that have 1 or more reds that will not turn on. If, while turned on, I take the soldering iron to them and heat them up they'll turn on and stay running until I remove power. Once I remove power they don't turn on again until I apply heat and let the solder re-flow.

Also, has anybody noticed a difference in colors on some of the green?


Has anyone had trouble with these, or am I the only one?

I have had a few go out as well - especially the red and I've seen the same thing you have. Sometimes soldering gets them going but usually, it just means they need to be replaced. When I brought them all down to install white LEDs I replaced all the flakey ones. I've been running tests with LabRat's YADA and noticed I have some more out but I really don't feel like messing with them again. I haven't noticed anything in particular with the Greens...

[Skunberg]

I don't know if I'll get to them. Sounds like I should find a socket and build a test rig and test all the bulbs. Anyone know a mouser number off hand for a socket?

[LabRat]

I have had a few go out as well - especially the red and I've seen the same thing you have. Sometimes soldering gets them going but usually, it just means they need to be replaced. When I brought them all down to install white LEDs I replaced all the flakey ones. I've been running tests with LabRat's YADA and noticed I have some more out but I really don't feel like messing with them again. I haven't noticed anything in particular with the Greens...

Certainly sounds thermal related, I wonder if the die inside the LED itself is at issue. :( That would certainly be .. what's the official technical term...

Oh yeah... BAD!

[dlovely]

Sorry to bump a really old thread, but does anyone have any sets they never used or don't want? I am looking for 4 sets of RGB and 4 sets of Warm White from this old group buy. The new LEDs from this years buy pins changed and will not work for me.

[keebler]

what i did is turn the WHITE led's upside down, so that the smooth part is on the bottom left corner instead of the upper right.
frank DID post something about this - in regards to a silk screening error.

this worked great for me
:)

[dlovely]

what i did is turn the WHITE led's upside down, so that the smooth part is on the bottom left corner instead of the upper right.
frank DID post something about this - in regards to a silk screening error.

this worked great for me
:)

Thats not the problem, You cannot rotate the RGB leds, the common anode would be in the wrong spot.

[pmcpa]

I think this was also an issue with the LED's last year too. Do what keeber said, rotate 180 deg

[dlovely]

See this post (http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?15273-SuperStrip-RGB-White-Warm-White-LED-Group-Buy&p=159116#post159116) for why I am asking, I also posted (http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?15273-SuperStrip-RGB-White-Warm-White-LED-Group-Buy&p=159119#post159119) the 180 deg rotation so that is not my problem...

[pmcpa]

Woops! Sorry, I missed that the rgb's are different.

[dlovely]

If I had not soldered in all the resistors ahead of time thinking the new RGBs were going to be the same, I would not have any issues. Could just reorder the channels to make them 'match' the order of the old strips. As it stands tho, the Red would have a 100 Ohm resistor and the Green would be a 150 Ohm resistor. I was just checking to see if anyone brought some and didn't end up ever building the strips. I have a MFG that is willing to custom make me some but figured I would ping the board first.

[michaelc]

I assembled 13 complete strips so far and out of all of them I only had an issue with 1 RED led. So 1 out of 234 RGB leds is not a bad fail rate and most likely it failed because I fried it while soldering it.

FYI another 10 strips in progress and 7 not touched yet. But on the BRIGHT side (couldn't resist the pun), My 550 UV Leds showed up from England!

[budude]

But on the BRIGHT side (couldn't resist the pun), My 550 UV Leds showed up from England!

You gotta show those off! I still have 5 strips leftover with no White LED installed and was thinking of installing UVs on these for my Halloween setup...

Time will tell if your RGBs do well in the weather - when I took my 20 strips down to install white LEDs in them, I replaced all the bad RGBs while I was at it. I even tapped the strips on my bench and gave them a small twist/bend looking for loose solder and made sure everything was 100% before reinstalling them in my eaves. After my Halloween show I noticed a handful more dead ones here and there - argh... Red seem to be the worst and then Green - I don't recall having any Blue go out yet and none of the single color white have gone as of yet either.

[michaelc]

sorry, misstep